Yesterday I talked about the number on the size label being merely a starting point when you are considering a purchase. Fit is what’s important. Today I want to take that principle further: Don’t let the designer or the retailer of an item dictate to you the way it should fit on your body. 

Sure, the designer might have had a specific look or even a specific body shape in mind. And retailer staff reveal their opinions in the way that they showcase the item in photography and displays. But like the size on the label, these things are merely starting points. Once the item is on your body, the way it looked in the magazine or on the website are no longer very relevant. What is important is what the item does on your body and for your happiness factor.

This might mean going up a size or two to create a more fluid fit. Or sizing down to create a more formfitting look. It could mean going up a size and tailoring the parts that are too big. Or sizing down, repositioning buttons, and letting out a side seam on the areas that are too tight. Sometimes it just means embracing the fit on your body, regardless of what it looks like on the model. The look might be very different, but that doesn’t matter if it works for you.

My favourite wool trousers, the Theory Yanettes, were shown on the model as a sleek ankle pant. But that’s not how I chose to make them fit my body. They are roomy and full length with scrunch on me. If I’d gone down a size, I may have achieved a fit that was slightly closer to that of the model, but I didn’t even try doing that. I prefer the fluid fit of the trousers in this size and left it at that.

My favourite Jil Sander Gaberdine skirt is shorter and sleeker on the six foot model than it is on a five foot six inch gal like me. The fit on my frame is longer and more A-line. I could have tapered the side seams a little, and had the skirt shortened to achieve a closer fit to that of the model. But I prefer my skirts longer, and love the extra architectural volume that the silhouette creates over my thighs, so I left the skirt as is. 

You might look at these pictures and prefer the fit on the model. That’s ok because it’s a personal preference. I’m not saying the item looks better on me. I’m saying that I’m happy with the way the items work for me, and when it comes to a purchase decision, that’s the only relevant piece of information.

Think beyond how an item fits a model, and focus on how items fit your own proportions and suit your needs. If you have the freedom to choose a longer, shorter, wider, or narrower version of the fit than what was originally intended by the designer or suggested by the retailer, go for it.

Long hair on women, whether it’s straight, wavy or curly, has become extremely fashionable over the last few years. The majority of models, celebrities, socialites, fashion bloggers, magazine editors, designers, street style celebrities and all sorts of other people in the fashion industry, have shoulder length hair or longer. It has also struck me that the majority of people I see in Seattle have long hair, including kids at school, teens and ladies in their twenties. 

When I was in high school (1983 to 1987), there were many, many girls with short hair and chin length hair. Far fewer girls had long hair back then. I remember long hair being the fashionable thing in the ’70s, which is probably why I had long hair as a little girl. I also remember long hair becoming a fashion statement in the early ’90s, and as a result I grew out my hair to past my shoulders to feel more hip. But from the mid ’90s onwards, all hair lengths became fashionable again. 

In 2013, we are back to a fashion era dominated by long hair and I can’t recall a time when one particular length was so popular. Although short hair is my personal choice right now, I think long hair is beautiful. There are certain looks that definitely benefit a lot from flowing locks. Hats, in particular, seem to work much better over long hair. 

Have you noticed the current long hair norm?

The size label on an item of clothing is just a number that helps you to correctly identify the subset of clothes that you should take to the dressing room. It does not define who you are or make you stylish (or unstylish). What does project a great sense of style is flattering and attractive fit. So instead of the number on the label, focus on how a clothing item hangs on your body, and how it moves when you move. 

This sounds simple and obvious, but it is easier said than done. For many women, clothing size is a very emotional thing. Their identity is tied to a certain size, but it no longer fits them. This might be the result of changes in the size specifications for the brands they like, or it might be that their body has changed over time. Whatever the reason, sizing up can have a negative effect on their psyche and body image. But as I suggest to my clients, it is important to let go of the number and size up when you need to. More often than not the extra room in the garment actually makes the wearer look more slender than wearing an item that’s a dash too small. It’s a win-win situation because all goals are met — as long as you ignore the number on the size label.

Although we normally associate this issue with being attached to a smaller size, it does also go the other way. Some of my tall clients believe they need to wear an XL and have a hard time accepting that a smaller item is right for them even when they are drowning in the larger size. So sometimes I have to be quite assertive about the large or sometimes even the medium being the more flattering fit. Again, it’s a win-win situation if you focus on the fit and not the size.

Correctly fitting clothing goes a long way to achieving proportions and silhouettes that showcase your body in the best possible way. When something does not fit, it’s never your body that is wrong. It’s merely a question of finding a better fit, be that through a different size or a different item altogether. Feel empowered by the sizes that are available to you, and don’t get hung up on the number on the size label. You have the freedom to choose how an item should fit. Use it.

This week’s fab finds are a nod to the mixed media, sci-fi and pointy toe trends. I also threw in a little retro and modern classic. 

• Ann Taylor Studio Sweater: Although the top is shown with skinny jeans, it’s fabulous over a pencil skirt, full skirt and slouchy trousers. Just the right amount of fluidity and structure. 
• Ann Taylor Lace Print 3/4 Sleeve Top: Similar to the studio sweater, pair it with the same bottoms. It’s one way to add casual elegance to a pencil skirt and pumps outfit. 
• Banana Republic Bold Houndstooth Pencil Skirt: This skirt is selling like hotcakes for good reason. It’s graphic in a muted grey and white, which is softer than a black and white houndstooth. 
• Michael Kors Oversized Lexington Watch: Watches with black faces look fresh and retro, which is why I purchased a similar style last month. I like the Rolex-esque integrity here. Also available in silver. 
• Underground Blitz Pewter Winklepicker Ankle Boots: Refined Sci-Fi Mod with a little Tough thrown into the mix. Add a playful element to casual outfits with these numbers. 
• Faith Camborne Strap Pointed Mid Heel Shoes: A Marc Jacobs inspired pointy toe Mary Jane that’s fab with and without hose. A low heeled alternative to wear with skirts, dresses, trousers or jeans. Warning: the leather is not soft, so it might not meet your comfort standards. 

Wear the lace print top with the houndstooth skirt and pointy toe shoes for a refreshed office look. Make the pewter ankle boots part of a casual Fall capsule.