Fabulous Fluid Pieces for Curvy Gals

I was shopping with a client last week who favours extreme waist-defining silhouettes because she has a very small waist relative to her curvy hips and thighs. She’s also shorter in the waist, but long in the leg. In the spirit of trying something new, I suggested that she try these fluid styles. She was pleasantly surprised with the flattering fit of the items, and came home with two pieces. 

  • Classiques Entier Flawless Jersey V-Neck Top: The V-neck elongates a short neck, while the top knot gathers under the bust add structure. Waist surrendering but fitted at the top of the hip. Gorgeous under a jacket or as a standalone piece. My client looks so much better in the top than the model in the photo. 
  • Elie Tahari Brenna Pull on Pants: My client usually needs major waist alteration on trousers, but these fit perfectly. The weighty drape of the crêpe is sublime. As I mentioned in the guide for dressing pear shape body types, silky upscale track pants fit a small waist while giving the thigh and hip area plenty of room. No cling or whiskering. Won’t work for petites because the length cannot be altered. 
  • Michael Kors Ruched Sleeve Boyfriend Jacket: The length of this jacket is key. It covers the widest part of an extra curvy thigh, thereby creating a visually slimming effect despite its boxy fit. The built-in scrunched sleeves add structure. 

These trendier fits have opened up a world of opportunities for my client. She doesn’t have to stick to wearing tailored pieces, nor does she have to have everything altered at the waist. Fluid and oversized fits are your friend with a little attention to fit and proportion.

Classiques Entier Flawless Jersey V-Neck TopElie Tahari Brenna Pull On PantsMichael Kors Ruched Sleeve Boyfriend Jacket

Two Flattering Lengths for Ankle Pants

Slim fit pants that are cropped just above the ankle are currently the trending look. The style is everywhere, completely mainstream for the third season, and quite relentless. And judging from what I’m seeing on catwalks, there is no stopping it. 

If you’ve been with YLF for a while, you’ll know that pant lengths are my thing, which is why I am pedantic about what is flattering to my eye. I am highly sensitized to differences in length, longer or shorter, and will split hairs about the smallest change. So remember this caveat when reading my suggestions. I am hard to please when it comes to ankle pants and the “wrong” length is my poison eye. 

Thankfully, I’ve had lots of practice fitting clients across all body types, heights, sizes and ages into ankle pants over the years, and have found that there are two lengths that look flattering on everyone. One option is a little longer than most ankle pants, while the other is shorter. Both versions are tapered at the hem for structure, which is the other vital ingredient. 

On the Ankle with a Self Colour Shoe

The hem of the ankle pants below rests on the ankle bone. Furthermore, the shoes are the same colour as the pants (self colour), which visually creates a long lean line despite the horizontally cutting effect of the skin peeking through. Wear a white or red shoe with this look, which is high contrast to the pants, and you’ve lost the visual extension of the line. Widen the width of the hems and your legs look shorter. 

I’ve also found this length to look better with high vamped shoes like oxfords, loafers and peep-toe booties because the vamp of the shoe — in the same colour — visually extends the line of the pants.

Paul by Paul Smith Milano Pants

Cropped Four to Six Inches Above the Ankle Bone 

If you’re going to show your ankles, SHOW your ankles, which means showcasing the skin above the ankle. The lengths of these ankle pants are shorter than the norm by about four to six inches depending on your height, and of course, tapered for extra structure. Wear them slightly longer, but not as long as the example above, and wider at the hems, and you loose the flattering line on the leg. 

The beauty of the shorter ankle length is that it works with many shoe styles. Flat, heeled, low vamp, high vamp, low or high contrast. Try it all, and you’ll be surprised at how versatile this length is with footwear.

Banana Republic Hampton Fit Checkered CropSejour Knit Crop Pants

I’m not saying that ankle pants with wider hems that finish in between these two lengths are taboo. But in my experience, they are harder to pull off when you don’t have an extremely long leg line and relatively slim legs. Elongating strategies, like wearing heels, wearing low-contrast footwear, and tucking tops will only take you so far. Whereas adjusting the length and making sure the hem widths are adequately tapered is an easier and more practical solution.

Fashion News Roundup: Week 8, 2014

Expansion plans for Joe Fresh, Kate Moss as Ziggy Stardust, beauty bloggers launching their own product lines, and more style-related stories from around the globe.

Fun Fashion Fact

Did you know that the wedge heel was introduced in the 1930s and is attributed to Italian footwear designer Salvatore Ferragamo? It was an invention partially born from necessity. Because of wartime steel shortages, he was looking for new materials and started working with cork glued together in layers.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Ensemble: Boxy Shirt Under a Boxy Sweater

This is a modern update on the classic Preppy combination of layering a fitted pullover over an untucked fitted shirt. Remember how fussy and uncomfortable that combination could be? The straightening and pulling. The lumps and bumps. The perpetual creeping up of both tops. Well, this version is a LOT easier to assemble and much more comfortable. Plus it stays put during the day. The beauty lies in combining a boxy button-down shirt with a boxy sweater, which is fashionable thanks to the fluid and oversized trends. 

It is also an ideal way to sport a button-down shirt that doesn’t fit perfectly (too big in the torso, but right on the bust and shoulders). I like the effect best with a white shirt, but choose any colour combination that tickles your fancy.

Here are the components:

Boxy Button-Down Shirt: Ideally you want a shirt that is at least fluid, and not tailored. The roomy fit of the shirt makes the layered combination a lot more comfortable. Leave the shirt untucked. I like the look with the buttons done right up to the top because it’s strict, neat, and trendy. But by all means unbutton the collar if that feels more like your style 

Boxy Sweater: You’re after a pullover that does NOT define the waist. Think slouchy and baggy, like an upscale sweatshirt. I like styles with welts and lengths that aren’t too long, because these details add structure to the slop. Sweaters with high-low hemlines are another option. Scrunch the sleeves for structure, or leave them down if it’s too cold. Button the cuffs of the sleeves and leave them down if the sleeves of the sweater are shorter than the sleeves of the shirt. 

The sweater needn’t showcase the tails of the shirt if the shirt is the same length or shorter than the sweater. But visual shirt tails add a playful element to the look.  

Fluid Bottoms: I vote relaxed skinnies or straight legs, boyfriend jeans, or slouchy trousers, to create a consistently roomy fit throughout the outfit. These boxy tops also work pretty well with tailored bootcuts or trouser jeans and heels. Or feel free to wear a pencil skirt if a sleek bottom is a must. 

Footwear: Wearing tailored and refined footwear is important because it adds structure to the outfit, especially when your jeans and trousers are baggy. Throw in slouchy and chunky footwear and that element of structure disappears. 

Topper: Coats, motos, trench coats, or blazers — wear any topper that works with the outfit. Or leave off the topper if the weather is mild. 

Accessories: Leave off the scarf and the belt because this is a minimalist look. Add a bag, and jewellery, eyewear and watch as desired. 

I was completely off wearing blouses and shirts under knitwear for about a year. But the trendy boxy fit pullover has made me love the combination again, especially with relaxed skinnies or boyfriend jeans, and white Beatle booties. I have worn this formula six times in the last three weeks. I especially like wearing a white shirt under my pale pink, neon pink, Winter white and citron boxy cashmere pullovers. Feels fresh, updated and polished.

Boxy Shirt with Sweater

Link Love: Comfort Is Cool

“The desire to be comfortable is profound, shaping attitudes and markets.” This quote from Cathy Horyn’s last article for the New York Times (Suz is also linking to it below) caught my eye, as I’ve been thinking a lot about how I want my footwear to be 100% comfortable and 100% stylish at the same time.

Cathy Horyn’s words also resonated with Miss Sophie from les anti-modernes*. In her blog post on practical luxury, she writes “the idea that real, honest comfort is fundamental to inhabiting one’s sense of style has always been at the core of my own sartorial philosophy.”

Just last month, The Guardian reported that the demand for comfortable and lower-heeled footwear continues to grow, and that financial investors have started to take notice of this trend.

Fab Links from Our Members

Suz loved the photo illustration in Cathy Horyn’s article, showing how close today’s relaxed minimalist looks are to their ’90s forebears. She’d wear any of the pictured outfits in a second.

Elizabeth P thought this post on age-appropriate dressing was fantastic.

Krishnidoux really enjoyed this NPR article about designers presenting comfortable clothes with quality craftsmanship for women. A new trend, that she hopes will last.

Annagybe loves this Magritte-inspired collection from Opening Ceremony, especially the Birkenstocks.

Angie encourages us to take a peek at the street style that surrounds London during fashion week, where the temperatures are a lot milder than arctic New York City. Neutrals and pastels reign supreme. 

In this experiment four women are photoshopped into cover models. Ironkurtin wonders how she would feel and how you would react.

April thought this piece contained lots of good advice for how to dress alluringly as we get on in age.

Laurinda is fascinated by Anna Dumitriu’s work. This artist combines bacteria and textile design to explore our relationship with microorganisms.

LACeleste wanted to share Phoebe Philo’s take on the power of quiet clothes.

Lisa found this post about the four universally flattering clothing colours quite interesting. Who knew there were colours that work for everyone?