Fall Trend: Mary Janes

As I mentioned in my seasonal trend report, Mary Jane footwear is making a comeback. Mary Janes are low-vamped shoes with one or more straps running across the instep of the shoe. The style is very distinctive, and here’s a collection that is hot off the press for Fall. 

Zappos
Bandolino Onni
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8

Mary Janes can be dressy or casual, heeled, wedged or flat, solid, patterned, or colour blocked, and dainty or chunky. The strap(s) that runs across the instep can be positioned higher or lower on the foot, and can be narrow or broad. Toe boxes run the gamut. Pointy, almond, square, round, or rounded and square. 

Mary Janes have their pros and cons. Let’s start with the pros:

  • The low vamp looks fresh after five years of ultra trendy high vamps. 
  • The straps secure the pump to the foot. 
  • They have a Retro appeal. 
  • The straps are fun maximal details. 
  • They can look quirky when worn with socks. 
  • They can look gorgeously ladylike and slightly playful. 

Here are the cons:

  • They can look juvenile and too “school girl”.
  • The straps can create an unflattering horizontally cutting line across your leg line (although a low-contrast strap will minimize that effect.)
  • The aesthetic can be prissy, ladylike and twee. 
  • The style is hard to fit on feet with high insteps (straps are often too short.)

I have mixed feelings about Mary Janes, although I love my Tokyo wedges because they are unique. I wore flat, round toe Mary Janes with socks and tights daily for twelve years as part of a school uniform, so I sometimes have a negative reaction to the silhouette. That said, their ladylike and Retro integrity appeals to me. If I come across a pair of dressy and heeled darlings that look sufficiently “grown up” to my eye, they will earn their spot in my closet. 

Over to you. How do you feel about Mary Janes, and will you wear them?

MARC JACOBS Lexi Glittered Patent-leather Mary Jane PumpsLANVIN Patent-leather Mary Jane PumpsMIU MIU Crystal-embellished Velvet Mary Jane PumpsGUCCI FOR NET-A-PORTER Floral-print Textured-leather Pumps

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Dressed Up Jeans and Tee

A new outfit from Brenna Mari of Chic Street Style, whom we introduced to YLF in January 2014.

Brenna dresses up a simple tee and jeans with well-chosen accessories and a chic trench. She’s tucked a white slub jersey T-shirt into distressed skinny jeans. The ripped knee combined with the tee are very casual. Opting for a neutral colour palette paired with gold-toned jewellery, a cognac leather satchel and drapey waterfall trench adds lots of polish. Nude chunky heeled cage sandals create soft edge and provide visual interest. So do Brenna’s oversized round sunnies and her caramel ombré locks that complement the colour palette beautifully. A soft pink lipstick and classic Chanel brooch finish off the look.

Brenna - 1

Brenna - 2

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Team Boutique or Team Department Store

My favourite places to shop around the world are department stores, which vary in target market and price points. There’s De Bijenkorf and HEMA in the Netherlands. In the United Kingdom I love John Lewis, Marks & Spencer and Selfridges. Canada has Holt Renfrew. In Japan and Hong Kong I love to visit Sogo, Isetan and Takashimaya. In Singapore there’s Tangs. And of course, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s in the US. 

I love shopping in department stores because they offer enormous variety, my size is normally available, there’s lots of space, helpful service when I ask for it, the best return policy, and brilliant restrooms. As a shopper I can be anonymous, focussed, independent and comfortable. I am not overwhelmed by the mass of merchandise, because I’ve had lots of practice shopping in huge stores. Usually I’m able to zone in on the areas that interest me quite quickly and get on with it. And last, some department stores have the BEST delicatessen and food halls. If you haven’t been to the food and florist floors in a Japanese department store, you are missing out. It’s sublime. 

I am less comfortable shopping in a small boutique because it’s harder to be anonymous and independent. Personally, I don’t want the sales assistant bringing me items by way of suggestion, and waiting outside the dressing room to tell me what he or she thinks of what I am trying on. Although that type of service and camaraderie is part of the charm of shopping at a boutique, it tends to have a negative effect on me. More importantly though, boutiques and small stores lack the variety I am after, and hardly ever stock my size. I also seldom seem to be drawn to the merchandise in a boutique, unless on the off chance, it’s a brand that I can get in a department store. And in that case, I would rather buy it at the department store. 

I fully understand that many prefer to shop in small boutiques, and my guess is that Team Boutique will win this race. You receive personal attention, get to know the store staff (possibly even the owner), and the amount of merchandise is very manageable. You might even get a discount when there isn’t a sale, and above all, you love the merchandise. 

I bat for Team Department Store. Over to you. Do you prefer shopping in boutiques or departments stores? Tell us why and no batting for both teams. But if you happen to find yourself on the bench, I’m serving chicken lettuce wraps with peanut sauce, and gelato for dessert.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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How to Take the Priss out of the Pussy Bow Blouse

The pussy bow blouse (or necktie blouse) is a woven top with a bow at the neck. The fabric is soft and drapey to accentuate the sensual and romantic vibe of the top. Every so often, the blouse is made of a stiffer shirt fabric, or lightweight denim. Usually, the sleeves are long, but you’ll see a sleeveless or short-sleeved version too. The bow can be broad and maximal, or narrow and subtle. Most bows tie at the base of a crew neck, but some styles tie at the base of a V-neck.

The pussy bow blouse is available in just about any colour and pattern. Here’s a collection of examples to showcase the variety. 

Pussy bow blouses have a glorious Retro sensibility that pulls at my heart strings. I also love their flowing and romantic vibe, high neckline, dressy appeal, and the visual statement of the bow. Conversely though, many of my clients and friends aren’t attracted to pussy bow blouses. The item is either too fussy, too dressy, somehow conservative, too high on the neck, or too prissy or twee. Often they consider it to be unflattering on a larger chest and shorter neck. The thought of tying the perfect bow is also off-putting. 

If you’re among those who are sceptical about the pussy bow blouse here are some points that might change your mind:

  • Although quite the timeless style, it’s on trend at the moment. 
  • I have large-busted clients who have looked wonderful in the RIGHT pussy bow blouse. Choose a fitted silhouette and drapey fabric so that the bow collapses back onto the body. Stay away from gigantic patterns and prevent button gape on the bust with a snap or fashion tape. 
  • Petites need to choose styles with narrower bows. 
  • Short necks look best in pussy bow blouses with lower necklines.
  • Choose the blouse in a solid black for a harder edge. 
  • Watch this video to learn to tie a perfect bow. 
  • Or leave the bow and knot the ties instead. Alternatively, tie the ties like a man’s necktie. Add a brooch for fun. 

That leaves the prissy aspect. It’s how you style a pussy bow blouse that makes the difference. Interesting juxtapositions are your friend. Temper the precious priss by adding a Tomboy vibe to your outfit. Here are six ways of doing just that.

1. Boyfriend Jeans, Belt & Loafers

Combine a tucked pussy blow blouse with faded boyfriend jeans, oversized watch, a masculine belt, and unisex loafers. The blouse is effectively dressed down and tamed.

Boyfriend Jeans, Belt & Loafers

2. Shirt Fabric & No Bow 

A pussy bow blouse in a shirt fabric is more masculine right away. Choose narrow ties that hang down the front of the body instead of a bow, and you’ve taken the flouncy romance out of the blouse. Throw in a pair of boyish flats like loafers and oxfords, and Bob’s your uncle.

Shirt Fabric & No Bow

3. Denim Shirt, Cropped Pants & Chunky Oxfords

Choosing a pussy bow blouse in a lightweight denim, tencel or chambray amps up the boyish factor. As does tucking it into cropped pleated trousers and adding flat oxfords (chunky or refined). You could throw in some fun socks for a Hipster look.

Denim Shirt, Cropped Pants & Chunky Oxfords

4. A Shirt & Grey Jeans 

The boyish charm on this rendition is more subtle. The fabric of the blouse is stiffer than a soft blouse, and the pinstripes are quite masculine too. I find faded grey jeans quite masculine, so to my eye, that adds a little more Tomboy to the mix. The fitted silhouette of the jeans, the gigantic statement bow, and the dainty pointy toe flats keep the look more feminine.

A Shirt & Grey Jeans

5. Roomy Cropped Straight Legs & Blazer 

This silhouette of jeans reads more masculine right away. The blazer is another boyish addition, especially in a stripe. Keeping the footwear feminine is one way to go, but feel free to add boyish shoes to the mix.

Roomy Cropped Straight Legs & Blazer

6. Hard Edge 

Create a hard edge by remixing a soft pussy bow blouse with tough elements like leather, pleather, studs, zippers, buckles and lots of black. No need to keep the blouse tucked like the example either.

Hard Edge

I recently fell in love with a striped pussy bow blouse from Banana Republic. It instantly followed me home. It’s more of a boyish shirt, but the gigantic bow and fitted silhouette secured the romantic and retro vibe. I wouldn’t have minded if the blouse was soft because I’m not trying to temper its flouncy precious priss. In fact, I aim to do just the opposite of what I’ve suggested above by adding soft and feminine elements back into the outfit.

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A Mix-and-Match Capsule for Fall

This capsule was inspired by a recent vist to J.Crew where there is always a good amount of colour remixed with neutrals. Bless J.Crew for providing us with colour options when the rest of retail is stuck offering black and grey. 

The wonderful colours of their new Fall stock instantly sparked off fresh mix-and-match capsule palettes in my head. I was quite taken with how the same animal print was offered across various wardrobe items, and how they could be worn together in one outfit — clever. All sorts of patterns and colours could be mixed marvelously well in an over-the-top yet harmonious way. 

I took five items into the dressing room with me to assess whether the animal print skirt could be worn with the animal print twinset. YES, the pieces worked well together because it’s the same pattern across two fabrications, creating the effect of a two-piece dress. I also wanted to see if the pink paisley blouse worked tucked into the animal print skirt. It did in a trendy maximal way. And last, I wanted to test whether the half elasticated crepe pants worked with a semi-tucked blouse. It did, and so the makings of a versatile mix-and-match capsule were born.

Pieces

As I stared at these garments in the dressing room, I thought how light blue, black, white and a touch of tomato red would make fun additions to the pink, earthy olive and leopard print. So I came back home and carefully fleshed out a versatile and fully functional mix-and-match Fall capsule with both dressy and casual separates. All the items are from J.Crew apart from the bag, scarf and two pairs of shoes. The exact items are represented in this collection.

J.Crew
Matte crepe trouser
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J.Crew
Tie-front silk top
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Talbots
Painted-Dot Scarf
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A few things upfront: 

  • Colour Palette: There are neutrals, a bright, and two mid-tones to ensure variety. That way, you can create head-to-toe neutral outfits, remix neutrals with a colour, remix the brights with mid-tones, and create tonal outfits. You can wear head-to-toe black or blue if you like, OR create high contrasts with the separates. 
  • Metals: I kept the hardware and metallics gold, but feel free to mix metals.
  • Dress Codes: The capsule covers business casual, smart casual and casual. 
  • Solids & Patterns: I’ve used two patterns while the rest are solids. 
  • Pattern & Colour Mixing: The capsule assumes that you have a high affinity for colour and pattern mixing. You can mix the paisley and the animal print together in an outfit. I tried on the combination in the dressing room and liked it. (A nod to the Maximalism trend). You can also wear the pink with the red and light blue. It might not be your cup of tea, but it worked to my eye. 
  • Trends: Maximalism, cropped pants and jeans, ‘70s blouses, a bandana, and current footwear are the stand-out trends here. 
  • Layering: There are eight tops, but some of the tops can be layered with each other to create more top options. For example, the animal print shell and cardigan create a twinset. The animal print shell can be layered as a vest over the white button-down shirt and red bow blouse. The animal print cardigan can be buttoned through and worn as a pullover. The cardigan can be layered over the shirt and blouse if you don’t mind a snug fit on the sleeves. All four toppers can be layered over the tops. And if you like, the vest can be layered under the other toppers. 
  • Outfit Combinations: Each of the tops can be worn with one of the five bottoms, and layered with any of the toppers. You will absolutely prefer some outfit combinations over others, and those are the ones you would wear more frequently. The point is that you have multiple interesting outfit combinations if you want them. 

As I mentioned up top, all three animal print items can be worn together for a dress effect. If you don’t mind denim on denim, the denim top can be worn with the blue jeans and topped with the light blue coat for a tonal effect. 

I’ve incorporated colour, pattern, texture and shine into the capsule for outfit interest.

A Mix and Match Capsule for Fall

Bottoms

I chose FIVE bottoms across a range of dress codes, colours and silhouettes. 

  • Two skirts: A simple black pencil and A-line patterned midi.  
  • Two pairs of jeans: Both trendy, tailored, and cropped. The white jeans provide a dressier option and YES, you can wear white jeans year round. 
  • Pair of trousers: A comfortable crepe pull-on pair in a deep olive is a more interesting neutral than black and grey.

Tops

There are EIGHT tops, but thirteen top options if you layer some of the tops together. I chose a variety of colours, fabrics and silhouettes. Wovens and knitwear are covered. I did not include knitted tops, but feel free to do so. To reiterate: each of the tops can be worn with one of the five bottoms, and layered with any of the toppers.

  • Shell top: Patterned and part of a twinset.
  • Cardigan: Patterned and part of a twinset.
  • Shirt: In white and good for layering, or when you need a classic look. 
  • Three blouses: A bow blouse in red, a ruffled blouse in pink paisley, and a denim blouse.   
  • Two pullovers: A solid black and pink. 

Toppers

I chose FOUR toppers that differ in colour, fabric, weight and silhouette:

  • Coat: A long length for cold days. Dress it up or down. 
  • Blazer: A modern classic that pops in a bright. Dress it up or down. 
  • Moto: A black moto for when your outfit needs a bit of Hard Edge. Dress it up or down. 
  • Vest: A lightweight equestrian addition that can look spunky in an unexpected way. 

Footwear

There are FIVE pairs of shoes in the capsule as a starting point. Again, there is variety in style and coverage to change up the mood of your outfit. Pick and choose the footwear that you think looks best with the outfit:

  • Pumps: A pair in patent with a trendy block heel for dressier and ladylike occasions. 
  • Booties: A high shaft pair in a light neutral to cover all the bases. 
  • Loafers: A comfortable modern classic that pops in a bright.
  • Oxfords: A tomboy addition for spunk and Hard Edge. 
  • Sneakers: These days, you can pair sneakers with almost any outfit to create an off-kilter juxtaposition. I chose white and gold to keep it pretty. 

Accessories

  • Bag: I kept it simple by choosing one bag for the season. A light structured satchel is versatile and more interesting than black for this capsule. 
  • Belt: A gold belt adds polish and shine to a semi-tucked top with jeans. 
  • Two scarves: A classic and neutral micro polka dot that can be worn with anything, and a bandana for charm. 

Add jewellery, headgear, eyewear and watch as desired.

This is merely one mix-and-match capsule for Fall, and depending on your needs and desires, you can stick to one or have several across a range of colour palettes. You can also add more tops, bottoms, shoes and bags to the mix. For example, you might choose three pairs of booties instead of pumps and loafers. Or add at least two more bags if you’re a bag lady like me. 

There are few people who can purchase this capsule from scratch right away, and the colours and silhouettes might not be to your taste either. The point is more that you can use the capsule as a template when refreshing your own Fall wardrobes. Capsules force you to think about how your wardrobe items relate to each other, combining to create complete outfits that are fabulous. To quote one of my clients: “outfits are outstanding, pieces are problematic”. She is dead right.

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