A new outfit from Kelly Tucker of Alterations Needed, whom we introduced to YLF in July 2013.

Another fab wedding guest outfit from Kelly. This time she put together a suit look with pinstripe trousers and matching waistcoat. Opting for a waistcoat instead of a blazer feels more playful, and shows more of the white button-down shirt, which lightens up the look. A loosely knotted chambray tie and white fedora add dandy flair. Rolling the pants and pairing them with dainty white pointy toe pumps softens the look. So do Kelly’s brown curls peeking out from under the hat. The cobalt felt clutch adds textural interest. Kelly’s grey nail polish picks up the colour of the tie, while the fun pin echoes the white in the outfit. A bold gold chain bracelet, silver rings and black watch are the well-chosen finishing touches.

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Over the last five years or so I have seen certain fit challenges come up repeatedly as I dress clients across all sizes, heights and body types, and shop across many different retailers. Note that I am not talking about incorrect fit, or garment designs that aren’t suited to a particular body shape. I’m talking about challenges that are more universal. For example:

• Dresses that are intended for an office environment, but are too short.
• Sleeves that are cut too narrow on jackets and coats, especially when they’re lined and sans stretch. Sometimes the armholes are cut too short too. 
• Armholes that are cut too low and wide on sleeveless tops thereby showcasing all sorts of bra exposure. 
• V-necklines that are too low. 
• Slouchy tops that are overly big everywhere. When size Medium clients regularly fit into Extra Small tops, you know that there is something wrong with the design. 
• Toe boxes that run too narrow on dressy footwear. 
• Premium denim that runs awfully small (although this one seems to be improving).
• Widths of jeans and trousers that are too narrow on the calves.
• Plus-sized garments that are too long in the sleeves, torso, rise and overall length. 
• Pocket linings that grin through the fronts of trousers that ruin the look of the garment.
• Small sizes like XS and a US0 that run larger than they used to. Unless there is the option to size down to an XXS or US00, these sizes are sized out of a particular brand. 

Have you noticed similar fit challenges over the last few years as you shop and refresh your wardrobes?

There are watershed changes happening in fashion, so we’ll see lots of newness over the next five to ten years. I’m welcoming the change because it’s been years since silhouettes looked fresh. Skinnies and body-con bottoms have reigned supreme for about a decade, and are finally a classic. Pairing them with roomy tops that surrender the waist is equally classic. The combination of “long and roomy on top paired with sleek at the bottom” is no longer on trend. It’s moved over to give way to new silhouettes.

• Wider silhouettes on the bottom
• Shorter silhouettes on top (both fluid and tailored)
• Cropped lengths both on the top and bottom
• Waist definition

The outfits below illustrate the newer and trendier outfit proportions. For jeans and trousers, you’re looking at higher rises that showcase the waist, and more fabric on the thighs and/or lower leg. Silhouettes can be baggy and very wide throughout the leg, or simply more tailored. Tops are shorter to lengthen the leg line from the thighs upward, and again, to define the waist. Fashion seems to be moving back to celebrating the waist-defining hourglass and pear shape and traditionally flattering proportions.

Don’t panic if you prefer to surrender your waist by wearing slouchy and long tops over skinny bottoms because retail will not give up on classic silhouettes. There will simply be less of those outfit proportions represented at retail over the next decade as retail focuses on the new. 

You might rebel against the trendier proportions at first, but grow to like them over time. It’s amazing how well we adapt to new things after an adjustment period. But most importantly, you ALWAYS have the choice to dress in an updated classic or trendier way because both fashion personas are equally stylish.

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Here’s a look that I like because of the pile of pearls. Take them away, and the outfit isn’t quite as appealing — at least, not to my dressy and pearl-loving self. I love the juxtaposition of the casual “thrown together” layers, with the bling. Go Team Glam at any time of the day. If pearls aren’t your thing, add bling that is more to your taste.

Here are the components of the outfit formula. Use any colour palette. I stuck to neutrals, but feel free to throw in some colour. Note that you can mix many neutrals in one outfit to create a harmonious look. 

Tight Bottoms: Choose a pair of form-fitting jeggings, leggings, Ponte pants or skinnies in a dark neutral. Make sure you can tuck the bottoms into boots. 

Tee: Choose a striped T-shirt in any colour combination. 

Shirt: Choose a denim or plaid shirt and layer it over the striped tee keeping the front unbuttoned like a jacket. 

Tall Boots: Choose a pair of casual knee-high or mid-calf boots, and wear them over the jeans. Again, feel free to remix an assortment of neutrals in one outfit. No need to make them match. 

Topper: Add a topper like a casual parka, trench coat, or pea coat.

Bling: Add a pile of chunky pearls, or another form of bling around your neck. Feel free to add blingy arm candy too. 

Accessories: Finish off the look with a casual bag like a hobo. Add jewellery, eyewear, headgear and watch as desired.

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