Reminder: Stock Up on Wardrobe Essentials

As we transition to Autumn and Winter, think about your wardrobe essentials. These are the wardrobe staples without which your wardrobe would not function. They make the rest of your wardrobe more wearable. 

Wardrobe Essentials are NOT wardrobe basics, which are items like underwear, socks, sleepwear, hosiery, thermals and loungewear. They are clothing items, footwear and accessories that are versatile, current and simple in design. They are also NOT statement pieces, but rather the simpler item that allows the statement piece to take centre stage. 

Most importantly, wardrobe essentials are PERSONAL. What is essential to one person is not to another. They can become workhorses.

I’ve changed my own list of wardrobe essentials quite dramatically over the years because of changing preferences. In 2017, I’m down to these items across a four season climate:

  1. Black and ink blue turtlenecks and slashneck pullovers
  2. White and cream knitwear
  3. Trendy jeans
  4. Denim jackets
  5. White and cream footwear
  6. Chunky white pearl necklaces
  7. Gold watches

I’m sorted on wardrobe essentials for Autumn and Winter, except for the tops and jeans. So I added an ink blue turtleneck and dark blue full-length pair of slim jeans about a month ago. Because of my new blazer additions, both items became workhorses right away. So I duplicated them in the same colour. I now have TWO of the same ink blue turtlenecks and slim blue jeans. That way I can have the duplicates in rotation and avoid laundry bottlenecks. 

Last year I duplicated another wardrobe essential – a pair of very comfy low-heeled cream pointy toe booties. They get so much wear because I wear them all the way into Spring. I kept the new pair boxed and unworn so that I would have another pair ready to go when the first pair wore out. I’ll be retiring the first pair soon. 

The only wardrobe essential I still need to stock up on is cream and Winter white pullovers. I’ve tried many styles, but haven’t found the right items yet. They’ve either been too transparent, too scratchy, or too pricey to duplicate. The search continues.  

Wardrobe essentials aren’t exciting, dramatic and interesting purchases like statement pieces, and sometimes it feels hard to justify allocating part of our budget to them. But they are essentials for good reason, making it easier for us to create complete outfits. Don’t forget about them.

Ensemble: Cranberry, Pumpkin & Bordeaux

This colour palette came together beautifully during a recent outfit creation session with one of my clients. We refreshed her Fall and Winter wardrobe with burgundy this year, which worked well with the burnt oranges and fuchsias she has in her closet from previous seasons. She wears black sparingly, making charcoal, dark brown and navy her dark neutrals of choice. The neutrals and blue denim effectively ground the palette. 

The colour combination worked exceptionally well because my client has a high affinity for colour and pattern mixing. She also needs a good dose of colour in her wardrobe to lift her spirits in our never-ending grey and wet Winter weather. 

For the cranberry component, think deep and dirty dark pinks and fuchsias. For the pumpkin component, it’s all about shades of orange, cognac and cinnamon. And all shades of burgundy for Bordeaux. There are endless ways to combine these three colours in an outfit. Here are some ideas to get you started. In each case choose burgundy, cognac, grey, chocolate or taupe footwear. 

Jeans & Cranberry, Pumpkin & Bordeaux

Combine blue jeans with a top in a shade of orange and a burgundy topper. Add a fuchsia scarf, and a complement of burgundy boots and bag. Or wear a fuchsia top with an orange scarf. A fuchsia pom-pom is a fun accessory to hang on a bag. 

Burgundy Dress & Spiced Cognac

Combine a rich red dress with cognac footwear and bag. Bonus points for on-trend tall cognac boots. Add a fuchsia topper or scarf. Or add a burgundy topper and fuchsia scarf. Burnt orange or amber jewellery is a fun addition. 

Fall Cocktail 

Combine burgundy jeans, skirt or pants with fuchsia top and orange topper. Add a burgundy or fuchsia bag, and your pick of footwear. Or keep the topper tonal with the fuchsia top and add cognac bag and footwear. An orange neckerchief spices things up. Add jewellery, watch and eyewear as desired.

Ensemble: Cranberry, Pumpkin & Bordeaux

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Width Variety in Your Outerwear Capsule

My 2009 guidelines for fitting a coat still hold true in 2017. Earlier this week I suggested creating a capsule with a variety of coat lengths if you live in a four season climate, because the length of a coat affects outfit proportions. Today I’m focussing on coat width. The width determines what you can layer underneath the coat, so a variety of widths comes in handy when you live in a four season climate and frequently wear outerwear.

Of course, our lifestyles, climates, comfort levels and sartorial preferences will differ, which makes some of the scenarios irrelevant. But for someone like me who is a stickler for good fit, wears outerwear fairly frequently, and needs to layer a few or multiple items underneath, a capsule of varying coat widths works exceptionally well. 

I run cold and therefore tend to buy most of my coats on the roomier side to accommodate layering. Some coats definitely look, fit and feel better with fewer and lighter layers, while others look, fit and feel better with bulk underneath. The fabric of the coat also plays a role. Heavyweight coats smooth out the texture of chunky knits and multiple layers more successfully than lightweight coats do. 

I’ll use my current coat collection as an example, explaining what can be layered underneath along the way. It has taken me years to build my outerwear capsule to a point where I have casual and dressy options in these categories.

NOTE: In some cases you’ll see the same coat do double duty across a range of light and heavier layers because the fit and fabric are magical. Those toppers somehow don’t look too big with light layers, yet handle multiple and thick layers as effectively. Also, most of the dark coats are ink blue and not black. 

For completeness’ sake I’ve included two jackets just because they form part of my outerwear capsule. I always wear a camisole, but when it’s very cold – around freezing and below – I wear a long-sleeved HeatTech thermal tee as my first layer over a bra. 

Light Layers

These are the coats that look best with light and fewer layers like woven dresses, sweater dresses, and fine to medium gauge knitwear because they’re more fitted. Thermal undies and scarves work too. That said, I have layered a fine gauge body-con turtleneck with a streamlined blazer and moto jacket under the J.Crew dressy red coat. It’s not the most comfortable combination, but because it’s very thick, the coat looks smooth despite the layers.

Light Layers & Jackets 

These are the coats and jackets with roomier fits, which means that I can layer them over multiple light layers like fine to medium gauge knitwear PLUS a denim jacket, streamlined blazer or moto. Scarves work too.

Chunky Knits

I have an assortment of very thick, chunky pullovers that look best worn with these coats and jackets. I can wear a camisole or a long-sleeved thermal tee underneath, as well as add a cold-weather scarf.

Exuberant Sleeves

These are the coats that work over bell and lantern-sleeved dresses and pullovers. Their roomy fit on the sleeves prevents the sleeves from becoming squashed and creased.

Layered to the Hilt

I wear these coats when I’m layered to the hilt with thermals, pullover, blazer and scarf, because they’re extra roomy. I find it very handy to have both casual and dressy options.

My chartreuse Modern Retro Karen Millen cocoon coat is a dressy option for every outfit because the length, width and dressy integrity are extremely versatile for my style. It’s become my hardest working coat. 

Think about the width, and how this impacts your layering options, as you add jackets and coats to your wardrobe. You will end up with a much more usable outerwear capsule.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Fab Finds: Skirts, Top & Cashmere Pullover

2017 is one of the better Fall and Winter retail seasons in recent memory because of improved fits, and a larger assortment of colours and silhouettes. Here are some of the items that have worked well on my clients recently. 

1. Isla Maude A-Line Skirt 

This is NOT a pencil skirt as reflected in the retailer’s description. It’s gently A-line and remarkably streamlining on both a curvier or straighter lower half. Excellent fit for pear-shaped gals, body types with “saddle bags”, fuller bottoms and thighs, wider hips, and hourglasses. Also good on rectangles with long rises and torsos. Not as good on inverted rectangles, narrow hips and thighs, or apple-shaped body types. Extremely comfortable casual knitted fabric and interesting patterns. Dress the look up or down. Nice knee-covering length too. I liked the style best with a cropped sweater that showcases the waist, but a shorter top with a welt can work as well. 

2. Boden Washable Silk Blouse

A well-made modern classic with French seams. It’s fab layered under a blazer, or semi-tucked into a pencil skirt, jeans or trousers. The colours are rich and refined. Machine washable. Runs a size big and goes up to a US18. Runs long, so not good on petites. I was sized out of the smallest size because it runs big, but if it had fit better, the turquoise would have been mine. 

Boden
The Silk Shirt
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Boden
The Silk Shirt
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The Silk Shirt
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3. Maeve Floral Velvet Skirt

Pouffy knife-pleated skirts are generally hard to style and feel fab in because they pack volume onto the midsection. These knife-pleated skirts do the opposite because they lie flat on the tummy and hips. Streamlined, and works on a range of body types. Super comfy and easy to style with a welted pullover. Good for casual holiday parties. 

4. Maeve Floral Jacquard Pencil Skirt

An extremely comfy pencil skirt that works for a range of body types. Bless that work-appropriate length. Knitted, but quite crisp. Dress it up or down. I like it best styled with a semi-tucked fluid pullover, but wearing it out over the skirt is lovely too. 

5. Maeve Nico Pencil Skirt

Super cute, comfortable, a tad romantic, fab length, and excellent with a denim jacket. Great swoosh-action in motion. There is a petite length for shorter gals. Fun with dressy flats and good year round. Read the rave reviews. 

6. Boden Cashmere Pullovers 

There is a LOT of bad cashmere at retail, and unfortunately the price of the item does not guarantee good quality. Over the years, I’ve had good luck with Boden’s simple cashmere pullovers  – (and J.Crew’s cashmere tee, for that matter) – that I consistently buy in a crew neck. They’re great to wear on their own with a variety of bottoms, some jewellery, scarf and coat. Soft, robust, no pilling, and easy to pull on. Beautifully finished on the neck and hemlines. The colours are a little less acidic in person. The V-necks are fab for a larger bust or shorter neck.

How to Wear Black and Orange Together

Many of my clients wear black and shades of orange, but don’t fancy combining the colours in one outfit because of the association with Halloween. They feel like they’re wearing a costume and can’t take the combination seriously. 

If that’s the case for you, here are three tips to take the Halloween out of an orange and black outfit:

  • Add a shade of white to the mix with white footwear, bag, jacket, jeans, belt or top
  • Add a shade of blue to the outfit with a pair of jeans, patterned scarf, jewellery, bag and shoes
  • Add animal print like leopard or cheetah with footwear, bag, topper or scarf.

I didn’t grow up with Halloween, and don’t have the same association with black and orange outfits. I love to wear orange, and enjoy black in small doses. I don’t wear them together because I prefer orange matched with shades of blue. I also like to add white to the mix to crisp things up.

PAUL & JOE Bonnie Wool-blend Coat

Over to you. Do you wear orange with black, or does the combination have too much of a Halloween association? And Happy Halloween!

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