Weekly Roundup: Moody Patterns

Apart from the gingham dress at the end, these patterns are what I call “moody” because they are as happy and cheerful, as they are strict and heavy. They have a literal and figurative darkness to them that is neither sweet nor light-hearted, but they have a substance and richness that’s appealing. 

I’ve seen most of the items in person, and some of them worked well on my clients. The Boden Eleanor Dress in cherry gingham earned a spot in my wardrobe.

  • Massimo Dutti Pleated Shirt With Floral Print: A dramatic trapeze blouse with a party of pleating at the back. It's machine washable, and bra friendly. Very well made. It works just fine with a black bra and camisole straps peeking through the sheer yoke. Voluminous yet refined and drapey. Elegant. It would have been mine if the colours weren't as cool-toned. Quality item.
  • Vince Camuto Poetic Dots Sleeveless V-Neck Blouse: Clients rave about these shells because the V-neck is flattering. A great blouse to layer under blazers, but runs a size big. Crease-resistant and polished.
  • Chaus Dot Print Bell Sleeve Blouse: Fun top for a curvy body type and larger bust. It's surprisingly streamlining on an apple-shaped body type.
  • INC International Concepts Polka-Dot Sweater, Created for Macy's: An easy pullover to throw on and go. Streamlined. Read the rave reviews.
  • Massimo Dutti Floral Print Silk Shirt With Bow Detail: An unusal shape blouse and floral pattern. The voluminous sleeves drape and taper back on the wrist. The ties at the wrist can be shortened so that they aren't fussy. Best on those who can fill it out. Not for petites, and overwhelmed my frame.
  • Rebecca Taylor Ikat Floral Stretch Silk Pants: Gorgeous drapey palazzo pants that work best on a curvy figure with a defined waist and longer torso if you're going to showcase the waistband. Works just fine on a shorter waist if you wear untucked tops and cover the waistband.
  • Ann Taylor Winter Floral Puff Sleeve Shift Dress: Little Black Dress Lite. I like the asymmetrical floral pattern. A frock that can be worn as a dress or as a tunic over cropped straights or flares. Runs a size big, and suits a range of body types. Sleeves are more voluminous in person. Structured, but not tailored. Unlined, but great drape and nice fabric.
  • Caslon Print Scarf: If you like cool colours, this is a great Spring scarf. It's big so best on a taller gal, or be prepared for scarf volume.
  • City Chic Misty Floral Cold Shoulder Top: Gorgeously streamlined cold shoulder top. Fab placement of the floral pattern that creates the effect of a diagonal line. Read the rave reviews.
  • Massimo Dutti Flocked Polka Dot Shirt With Gathering Detail: A flocked micro polka dot blouse with Edwardian sleeves that layer quite well under a jacket. Voluminous so best tucked or semi-tucked.
  • Anuschka Handbags 551 Medium Expandable Convertible Tote: A hand-painted leather bag is unique, and this one is for Team Pink & Purple. Arty and streamlined.
  • Zara Embellished City Bag: Graphic Polka Dot Crossbody Fabness. The wide strap is extra comfortable.
  • Ted Baker London Ornate Opulent Fauna Bomber: Beautifully made Sporty Luxe bomber jacket with an interesting bird pattern. Comes in black. Might run a size small. A quality item.
  • Boden Eleanor Dress: Impeccable quality CASUAL shirt dress with side entry pockets. It's fluid on the waist but structured on the shoulder and hips. Perfect for a hot Summer's day. As fun worn as a tunic over cropped straights. Best on a straighter figure, narrower hip, or apple-shaped body type. Can work well on a larger bust. Goes up to a US18. Comes in regular and long, AND in blue gingham. The red is a shade of watermelon. I love this happy and very crisp Summer dress, and don't mind one bit that I look like a Modern Retro tablecloth when wearing it.

Visit the collection page to see the items alongside my descriptions.

Trend: Paper-Bag Waists

As I mentioned recently, the ‘80s continue to be a significant influence on fashion. Paper-bag waist detailing is one of the ways, and a trend that has gone mainstream. A paper-bag waist has extra fabric that accumulates high or very high on the waistline, but is cinched in with darts, pleats, drawstring, and tie belt. The top of the waist extends beyond the tie belt and can “ruffle” when the excess fabric is extreme. The point is to fully or semi-tuck tops over a paper-bag waist to showcase the detail. In some instances you can remove the belt and sport a cropped top with the silhouette.

You’ll find paper-bags waists on pants, jeans, skirts and shorts of varying lengths. The collection below shows multiple examples of each.

Club Monaco
Anree Short
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3
Club Monaco
Dilys Skirt
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4
Club Monaco
Leia Pant
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4
Boden
Melina Paperbag Pants
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4
Boden
Tie Waist Crop Pants
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2
Boden
Tie Waist Crop Pants
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Boden
Melina Paperbag Pants
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12

The paper-bag waist has an interesting visual effect. The excess fabric at the waist and tummy creates volume and widens the midsection, yet the waist definition and tie belt slims the silhouette back down. There is lots of textural interest and plenty of room for movement. The tummy area poufs out when seated, which is the nature of the beast.

The ruffle at the waistline can be extreme or subtle, depending on the style. Most of the versions have front pleats although some have darts and drawstrings instead. Softer fabrics create less bulk at the waist and are a better way to maintain a slimmer effect. The versions with darts or very small pleats and tie belts create a “paper-bag-lite” effect and are another way to go if reducing the volume of fabric is a concern.

The long torso’d hourglass or pretty pear shaped body type was made for a paper-bag waist because the high rise shortens the length of the waist, and draws more attention to an already defined waist. It’s a harder design detail to feel fab in when you’re short in the waist and larger in the bust because the high rise further shortens the length of the waist and accentuates the size of the bust, making you feel less than streamlined. It’s usually not a popular style for very apple shaped body types because it draws attention and bulk to the midsection.

Please don’t think that you have to be tall or very narrow to wear this look. You really don’t. It’s more a question of being proportionally longer in the waist, and adhering to your figure flattering priorities. I’ve dressed apple shaped body types and plus sizes in paper-bag waists who have looked and felt fab because they had long torsos. The paper-bag waist can also camouflage midsection lumpage and bumpage.

I have an old pair of cold weather pleated tweed trousers with a streamlined paper-bag waist and built-in belt. I love these pants despite them billowing out when seated. They are VERY comfortable, beautifully made, and a grand nod to the fabulous ‘80s. I’ve ordered a Summer version from Boden in red because I love to wear pants that are not jeans. I’m a yay for the trend.

Over to you. How do you feel about paper-bag waists, and would you wear the look?

Paper Bag Waist

Editing and Embellishing my Dress Capsule

For a couple of years now it has been one of my style goals to wear dresses more frequently. I’ve had some success after finding the right dresses and the right footwear to complement them. I get more versatility out of dresses by sometimes wearing them over cropped flares or straights to create a tunic look. 

Initially I struggled to find the right dresses, and you’ve probably heard my complaints about lengths that are too short, lack of sleeves and flimsy fabric. But recently that’s turned around and I have doubled the size of my frock capsule in a short space of time.

I like to keep my wardrobe to a moderate size, so as I added new dresses I also needed to do some editing. In this post I’d like to take you through my thought process.

Dresses I Passed On

I am done with sack dresses because I don’t want to wear oversized looks anymore. I therefore passed on a voluminous navy flag dress, which creased a little more than I could handle. I continue to enjoy fluid shirt dresses without waist definition, but passed on the denim and striped linen ones here because they were worn out, torn under the arms, and lost their luster. I passed on the Ann Taylor printed sweater dress because the neckline stretched out, which made it lack structure where I need it most — adding width to my narrow shoulder line.

Dresses in the Holding Zone

I am moving away from classic sheath dresses. They create conventionally flattering proportions, but it’s not the silhouette I want and I’m not comfortable wearing them. Both of these older dresses fit well, but I’m putting them in the holding zone. The turquoise sleeveless sheath is sentimental because I wore it for my 40th eight years ago. The sleeved sheath has a matching tweed jacket which is a fun timeless suited look I might want to revisit.

Dresses I Recently Added

I added eleven dresses to my wardrobe over the last ten months. It’s a lot, since I only edited out six. But I have very few skirts (one casual, two dressy, and one in the holding zone) and the space to store five extra dresses so it’s worked out.

All lengths are knee and midi, and in silhouettes that I am comfortable wearing on this leg of my style journey. I want to wear structured dresses with romantic movement, but not too structured and not too much movement. This leaves me with shirt dresses, A-line shifts, fit-and-flare styles, and some sweater dresses. For the most part, this is what I have added.

I LOVE my new dresses. The asymmetrical olive shirt dress from COS is voluminous but is very structured on the shoulders and sleeves, making all the difference. The patterned red poppy dress is a sheath, but it isn’t tight and the balloon sleeves blew me away.

Current Dress Capsule

I now have seventeen dresses across an assortment of colours, seasons, patterns and dress codes. I have a dress for every occasion, except a fancy formal ball. Some of the dresses are very dressy, and reserved for formal functions. But the rest I wear daily to work with clients, out and about, or out to dinner. I’ll pop a denim jacket or gilet over the top to dress them down. I wear some as tunics over cropped straights or flares. I pair them with flats, sneakers, low-heeled booties or tall dressy boots. I reserve the low-heeled pumps for formal occasions. In Winter I combine the heavier weight frocks with hose, tall boots, a thermal tee, coat and scarf.

I have waited a long time to have a closet full of dresses in the silhouettes and colours that tickle my fancy, and I am absolutely delighted. The only thing left to do is wear the heck out of them.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Fashion New Roundup: February 2018

Madewell and J.Crew team up, a new Iris Apfel book, ASOS launches activewear, and more style news that made headlines in February.

Fun Fashion Fact

The 90th Academy Awards ceremony will be broadcast on TV this Sunday. Did you know that the first Oscars ceremony in 1929 was neither filmed nor broadcast on the radio? That’s why we don’t know, for example, what best actress Janet Gaynor wore to the actual show (although two publicity shots of her with her Oscar do exist, in which she is pictured in two different outfits).

Travel Capsule for an Eight-Day Trip

It’s time to head out to see my darling Dad in the Netherlands, which I do four times a year. I’ll be flying out on Sunday but this time Greg will join me while Yorkie Sam and his pet-sitter hold the fort at the Cox Castle. This is what I’ve packed. 

A few things upfront before I delve into the details of the travel capsule:

  • I’ll be visiting family, seeing dear friend Inge, doing errands, organizing, shopping, eating out, and going to appointments. I’ll be hanging out with my Dad in his home town of Velp, with daily trips to nearby Arnhem (a 15-minute bus ride). These very quaint and local towns are on the east side of the Netherlands and close to the German border. They are about an hour and a half away from Amsterdam.
  • I keep my outfits on the dressier side of casual because that’s true to my style.
  • Temperatures will be around 0 to 7 degrees Celsius (32 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit). Very grey and a little wet. Hopefully there won’t be much snow and ice, but there’s a biting icy wind in the Netherlands that makes it feel colder than it is — especially when you’re walking. Since I do a LOT of walking and take public transport when I visit my Dad, it’s very important to layer, wrap up, and wear comfortable footwear.
  • I’ll be putting a suitcase in the hold because I like to have more dressing options than a carry-on can accommodate. I’ll also be bringing presents for family and doing some shopping, which requires extra space.
  • I will not be doing laundry on the trip.
  • I can magically keep white and cream wardrobe items clean, and have been travelling with them for years. It’s a complete non-issue.
  • The capsule excludes the outfit that I will wear on both non-stop ten-hour flights. It’s the same outfit, and I’ve shown the components at the end of this post.

I’ve mentioned a few times that I crave a change in colour more than a change in silhouette. This is why the palette of my capsule is colour-rich, yet the items create the same daily uniform.

The Palette

I’ll create high-contrast, colourful outfits that look punchy and make me feel alive. Blue denim, navy, orange, citron and cream are the dominant colours in the capsule. Navy is a slam dunk with orange, and looks lovely with citron and chartreuse. Creams and white lighten the palette and match my hair. There are gold, white and burgundy accents just for fun, and an extremely small smattering of black.

The Outfit Formula

Foundation: Turtleneck + Jeans + Blazer + High-Shaft Flat Shoes + Coat + Specs

Finishing Touch: Scarf + Pom-Pom + Hat + Gloves + Watch + Jewellery

The items in the capsule can be mixed and matched till the cows come come. It’s a satisfying mix that is true to my style since it combines classics with trendier items, wardrobe essentials with statement pieces, solids with patterns, neutrals with colours, and old items with newbies. Plenty of variety but with a good amount of discipline. The silhouettes are simple. It’s the colour of the item, the bold combination of the colours, the accessories, and the mix of patterns that give the outfits their kick. Do not underestimate the power of colour as an effective styling tool.

Here’s more detail on each part of the capsule. Note that wardrobe basics, like undies, camisoles, sleepwear, loungewear, socks and knee-highs are not represented here. For the rest, these are the exact wardrobe items that I packed and will be wearing en route.

Footwear

I build a travel capsule around my shoes because it’s extremely important to have happy feet when you’re walking around a city and using public transport. Once I knew which ultra comfortable shoes I was taking, I planned the rest of the outfits to work with them.

I chose my gold boots to inject newness and futuristic glam into my outfits. They’ve been on shopping trips with clients so I know they can go the distance. I chose cream hi-top sneakers because their fleece lining is very warm, and the grippy soles are good in grotty weather. They are my most comfortable shoes of all time. I’ll wear the shoes with socks or knee-highs to keep warm.

Bottoms

I desperately wanted to take Winter dresses and tall dressy boots, but jeans and booties are more practical for the activities and weather on this trip. I chose three pairs of jeans, although two would have been sufficient. A pair of cropped blue straights, full-length dark skinnies, and white boyfriend jeans create variety.

Tops

I’ve packed five tops, which is more than I need. I’ve stuck to fine gauge woolly turtlenecks and one crew neck because they’re dead right for the weather, AND they layer well under blazers. Plenty of colour variety — just how I like it! Each of the five pullovers can be worn under either of the two blazers.

Toppers

I’ll wear a blazer each day to add polish and dressiness to my outfit, hence I packed two Winter weight blazers so that I can alternate and prevent outfit boredom. Both blazers are patterned, although the navy polka dot is like a “false plain.” I’ll need a coat for outside and chose my warm chartreuse cocoon coat because it fits beautifully and comfortably over the blazers. I’ll be very layered, but I don’t mind one bit. I’ll be warm and insulated, and feel pulled together with blazer and pullover when I remove my coat indoors.

Boden
Velvet Emilia Blazer
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Boden
Mirabelle Blazer
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Karen Millen
TIE-NECK COAT
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Accessories

I packed many accessories because they change up my look, create a maximal vibe, keep me warm, and don’t take up space. I chose two scarves – one patterned, one solid – that can work across any of the outfits in the capsule because I like bold colour combinations, and enjoy pattern mixing. I chose a citron crossbody because it’s matchy-matchy with the coat, and easy for travel. It’s a dressy Furla because casual bags are not my thing, and I like the way they amp up a pair of jeans and sneakers.The patterned pom-pom hooks onto my bag and makes me smile. I chose two dressier belts because they also add polish to my casual outfits. Cream headgear and gloves are essential for walking in the cold morning and night. I’m leaving off my pearl necklace, but wearing pearl wedding ring with bracelets and watch daily.

I will also be travelling with an umbrella and a cashmere wrap. I’ve left the wrap out of the capsule because it will NOT be styled into these outfits. It’s loungewear and a cosy blanket for plane travel only.

Travel Outfit

This is the exact outfit that I will wear on the flight out to Amsterdam, and the flight back to Seattle eight days later. It follows my strategy for what to wear on long flights. Layers, fabrics with stretch, fluid fits, and soft fabrics are cosy, comfortable and insulating for plane travel. A jacket, scarf, belt and dressy bag also make my casual outfit look pulled together and polished. Comfortable shoes are essential for comfort when traipsing through airports and catching public transport with luggage. I’ll pack my jacket and coat into my hand luggage during the flight and while I’m at the airport, but will need it on the other side when when we take organized transport through to my Dad’s apartment.

The jeans, pullover and denim jacket that I wear on both flights do not get worn during my trip, which is why they’ve been excluded from the travel capsule. I will wear the scarf, and possibly the navy boots and belt, if I feel like it.

I tried on the outfit combinations I was a little unsure about BEFORE I made my final decision on what to pack. You can visit the collection page to see my travel capsule in its entirety. The picture below shows the items just before I started packing.

Travel Capsule