T-Shirt Glam

A new outfit from Carelia Morán of My Small Wardrobe, whom we introduced to YLF in July 2013.

Carelia’s outfit combines four trends that are big for Fall 2018: earth tones, a midi skirt, animal print, and pattern mixing. She dresses up a simple tee with an elegant flowy midi skirt and pointy-toe pumps. Tucking the T-shirt elongates the leg line and creates structure. The neutral camel colour ties together the different shades of brown in the outfit, both cool and warm. The orange running through the zebra print on the skirt adds a playful touch. Carelia introduces a third pattern with her vintage lucite box bag which has a mother of pearl swirl pattern. The turquoise beaded multi-strand necklace then adds an unexpected pop of cool colour. Our blogger’s wavy locks — which complement the outfit colours splendidly — and red lipstick finish of this casual glam look.

Carelia Moran - 1

Carelia Moran - 2

The Full-Length Bootcut Is Back

For thirteen years, skinnies, jeggings, boyfriend jeans, wide legs, straight legs, culottes, and just about any silhouette cropped to above the ankle has reigned supreme in the bottoms department. Cropped flares are bootcuts at a deliberately shrunken length, but that’s it. The FULL-LENGTH bootcut just about disappeared after 2005. But it’s back on trend in 2018 as a nod to the ‘90s influence in fashion right now. I greatly appreciate that fashion is making a point of giving back all sorts of by-gone silhouettes their fashionable moment. It’s one way to celebrate diversity of style.

To be clear, bootcuts are fitted on the waist, hips, bottom, thighs and upper knee. They flare out from the lower knee to the hem giving the calves, ankles and feet some volume. They are not to be confused with wide leg pants that are worn wide from the hips and thighs down.

Of course, despite disappearing from the trend radar, bootcuts never went out of style. A handful of my clients continued wearing mid-rise bootcuts with cowboy boots and the like and they looked classic and fabulous. Bootcuts are especially popular with my curvy hourglass and pear-shaped clients, who feel that the wider hems balance out proportions. When they wear heels with extra long bootcut hems so that you can only see the tips of the feet and shoes, the long lean line is accentuated and flattering to their eye.

I do find low-rise bootcuts that were all the rage with premium California denim houses at the beginning of the ’00’s a little dated now. It’s subtle, but the length of the rise makes quite the difference in fashion. Mid-rise bootcuts look current, and high-rise bootcuts even more so.

I loved bootcuts, and wore them for years as the dominant denim silhouette for my style. I wore them with heels and made sure the hems almost swept the surface of the ground. I like full-length bootcuts and bell-bottoms VERY long because it looks luxurious and elegant. I have poison eye for bootcut hems that are shorter unless they’re intentionally cropped above the ankle and worn as cropped pants. Here are bootcuts worn with heels, and most of the hems are sufficiently long for my taste.

For 2018, wearing full-length bootcuts with flats is all the rage, and with sneakers and tucked or semi-tucked tops in particular. Showcasing the hips and waist by tucking the top or wearing a shorter top increases the length of the leg from the hips upward, which offsets the short-legged or dumpy feeling you might get when wearing full-length wide hems with flats. This collection showcases the point.

For the moment, I’m conflicted about full-length bootcuts for my own style. I’m enjoying how fresh they look amidst a sea of skinnies and cropped everything, but they have their disadvantages. I LOVE my two pairs of bell-bottom jeans that are wider at the hems than regular jeans. They swoosh and make me feel fab and Modern Retro. They require a higher heel than I wear daily, which is doable since I wear them for short periods of time. Dry weather is another prerequisite, but dodgy in Seattle where soggy hems are a reality. Wearing bootcuts with flats appeals to me but again, I need dry weather.

Since I spend quite a bit of time in dry Salt Lake City these days, full-length bootcuts might be practical. But the type of dressy, pretty and dainty footwear I like to wear is better suited to a tapered leg. I didn’t want to add back in the Tomboy vibe I wore five years ago, and I didn’t want to look overly casual.

Then I saw these bootcut chino pants worn with white sneakers and thought – super cute. As I said, conflicted!

Sanctuary Chino Pants

I need to try on some bootcuts with the type of flat footwear that suits my feet and lifestyle. I need to be able to wear the bootcuts with flats daily and feel fab doing so if I’m going to add them to my wardrobe. No more full-length flares to be worn with heels for special occasions because I have those already. That requirement is clear in my mind.

Over to you. How do you feel about full-length bootcuts? Did you wear them, and will you wear them again?

I’m Loving Brown and Light Blue for Fall

I start thinking about how I want to refresh my style for Autumn & Winter 2018 in July, just before the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale. Days before the NAS, I stumbled across Boden’s early Fall 2018 collection where I saw earth tones like brown and toffee combined with light blue, tomato red, and navy. I thought, YES. I love this, and decided right then and there that’s how I’m going to evolve my colour palette for the upcoming season. It set the mood and strategy for the NAS shop in July, and my shop with Inge in Arnhem in August when I visited my Dad.

I like cinnamon and cognac because they’re orange-y, and I adore Dutch orange. I used to have a little of it in my wardrobe, but the items were passed on. I like shades of toffee because they remind me of my late Mum who wore earth tones with the best of them. I have a stormy relationship with animal print that I love one season, and loathe the next. I seldom gravitate towards dark browns because my high school uniform was brown, and it’s taken me this long to recover from wearing it daily for six years. All this to say that I literally woke up one day — thirty years later — and was feeling shades of brown as the next neutral to add to my wardrobe.

I listened to my feelings and made the brown a reality. I bought three pairs of footwear in various shades of brown at the NAS. A pair of chocolate buckled boots, toffee perforated boots, and cognac flat oxfords. I also threw in a toffee cashmere scarf and a new brown belt to complement the lot. I had two old brown belts that work well with the new shoes too. Here are the exact items.

On my next Fall shop in the Netherlands I planned to add the light blue. I found two pretty woolly scarves from a Dutch store called Purdey that work beautifully with the new pairs of shoes. One is a light blue airbrushed floral, and the other an abstract earthy floral animal print with touches of light blue. I also got a light blue Furla from Greg as an extra, belated birthday present. The scarves work as well with the off-white Furla I got in Italy a couple of months ago. Here are the exact items.

I put in an online Boden order for light blue and brown outerwear. The light blue coat was a bust, but the Modern Retro chocolate brown leopard print Horsell jacket worked well. Here it is with a few of my older scarves and bag, when I feel like wearing brown with Winter whites.

Finally, here’s the brown and light blue complement in full with a good underpinning of shades of white. I will treat the brown leopard print topper like a false plain thereby pattern mixing it with the scarves. The collection shows new and old items from my wardrobe that create the fresh brown and light blue complement.

I’ll add a light blue or pastel turquoise coat and knitwear to the complement if it comes my way. Maybe extremely light blue jeans and toffee or cinnamon knitwear too. I’ll also remix the browns and blues with the tomato red, citron, chartreuse, optical white, navy, ink blue, black, and shocking pink in my wardrobe.

Brown, Blue and Sam

Sam approves of my new brown and light blue capsule. After all, he was sporting this colour combination long before I was.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Consistently Inconsistent Quality

It’s getting harder and harder to find quality wardrobe items. A high price point does not guarantee high quality, and a low price point is even more of a gamble. Most fashion retailers offer inconsistent quality at best. Brands that give us consistently high quality are few and far between, so when you find them it’s like discovering hidden treasure. That’s the consistent new normal.

Take these two items from Banana Republic bought within the last year. The first is a pair of cropped orange pants that I absolutely adore, but the quality is disappointing. They are perfect for the first few hours of the day, but stretch out dramatically thereafter. The fronts have pilled too. Granted, I washed and wore these pants very frequently, which might be why they’re wearing out. But that shouldn’t happen within the same season of purchase.

Next is my best ever purchase from Banana Republic earlier this Spring. I LOVE this dress. It’s a lined navy cotton lace midi dress that puts designer wear to shame. It’s beautifully made, fits like a dream, and swooshes with the best of them. It doesn’t crease when you wear or pack it. It comes straight out of the suitcase looking like a million bucks. It holds its shape and does not stretch out during the day. It’s 100% cotton lace and very breathable. It’s machine washable, AND air-dries perfectly on a hanger as if it’s just been pressed by the cleaners. It’s a truly remarkable frock.

I can’t boycott retailers after they’ve given me an inferior garment, because the next purchase might be a gem. If I’d decided to never purchase from Banana Republic again, I’d have missed out on the fabulous navy lace dress.

It’s all highly annoying. We try to make discerning decisions about quality before we purchase an item, but we only know how they really perform after the wear-and-wash road test. It seems that consistently inconsistent quality has become a part of modern retail and fashion.

Midi Lengths and Muscular Calves

There have been comments on the blog and forum lately about not wanting to wear midi skirts and dresses when you have muscular calves because it’s unflattering to your eye, and makes you feel less than fab. There is something about the calf-length of a midi skirt or dress that draws attention to the calf area in a way that makes you uncomfortable with the visual effect.

First, your muscular calves are fabulous and why the heck shouldn’t you showcase them. Be proud of your muscular calves.

Second, I’m empathetic to what you’re seeing and feeling because some of my clients feel the same way. They like the idea of a midi length, but feel that the horizontal line of the hem cuts across the widest part of their calves, making them feel unattractive. My suggestion is to try a midi skirt or dress with an asymmetrical hemline and some movement. The collection below provides good examples.

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Ganni Cameron Skirt
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The asymmetry of the hem creates diagonal lines that offset the width and curve of the calf. Diagonal lines are magical because they balance out proportions, either straightening curves OR enhancing them. That’s why these types of midi skirts and dresses work equally well for narrow, un-muscular calves like mine.

The asymmetrical hems on midis can have one, a few, or many diagonal lines depending on the silhouette. The length of the midi can vary too. If you wear a midi a little longer, but shorter than maxi length, the hem will float over the widest part of the calf which you might think is even more flattering.

Midi skirts and dresses with asymmetrical hemlines and movement prevent the cling that would draw attention to the widest part of calf. The drapey swoosh is just as magical as the diagonal lines.

And last, please don’t think you have to be tall. You can absolutely wear midi skirts and dresses when you’re petite. Simply adjust the length so that they are actually midi and not maxi length. Or wear the midi on the shorter end of the spectrum.