The Fabness of Twinsets

Twinsets are also known as sweater sets because they are a matching set of cardigan and short-sleeved pullover or sleeveless tank top. They are knitted and come in all sorts of solids, patterns, and fabrics. The idea is to wear the cardigan open, or partly open to showcase the under layer that matches in its signature way. The twinset first appeared decades ago, and is often thought of as an item that defies trends and is always in style. I agree. These days you’ll find classic twinsets that look like they came straight out of the ‘40s and ‘50s, and silhouettes that incorporate a more modern and on-trend integrity. The lengths of the under layer and cardigan can match or mismatch.

Here are some good examples.

H&M
Ribbed Cardigan
View Info
Top Pick
3
H&M
Ribbed Cardigan
View Info
Top Pick
3

I love twinsets and have sported many variations through the years. It’s THE way I enjoy wearing a cardigan. There is something about the pairing of items that looks pulled together, neat and tidy, polished, dressy, fun, interesting, and elegant in a relaxed way. I’m also attracted to their Modern Retro vibe. I like the practical aspect of the layers so that you can wrap up or peel off as needed. You can split up the layers and wear them as separates. Dressing up the versions with a more covered under layer can be an easy, comfortable and professional look for a corporate setting. Less constricting than a jacket, and just as effective.

I’m surprised I only have one twinset. I love it, and wear it every Spring and Autumn with trendy bottoms. It layers very well under jackets and coats, which is handy for a Seattle climate. It’s cropped and tailored so it looks great with high-rise and roomy jeans and pants, and a few flared skirts. The pieces were a result of a collaboration between J. Crew and Creatures of the Wind many years ago, and it’s still going strong. The dark components are navy — not black — making it fit seamlessly into my colour palettes.

I’m one of the few people I know who are into twinsets, which is probably why they aren’t that popular at retail. They are a fringe trend at best, or a hard to find staple classic. Some of my clients and friends think of twinsets as conservative, overly corporate, unattractive, or a little twee. Others aren’t too keen on the matchy-matchy vibe, find them a little fussy, or simply too many layers of knit.

I would love to have another twinset so they’re on my radar. I prefer the cropped styles and the versions with under layers that are more covered. I’m open to solids and patterns. How about you? Do you like twinsets, and if so which silhouettes tickle your fancy?

Evolverie Ribbed Knit Cardigan Charcoal

Violeta Gingham Check Knit Cardigan

Scrunching, Tucking, Popping and Cuffing

I enjoy the visual effect when I create some structure in my fluid and fluidly tailored outfits. It makes my outfits look neater, dressier, more polished. To me it feels more comfortable and more attractive. Highly structured outfits are not for me. I don’t like to wear items that are tight, form-fitting, body-encasing, or restrict my movement. My outfits have to flow, move when I move, and to some extent stand away from my body.

To recap, structure is about two main things. First, it means deliberately accentuating, or gently hinting at, the actual shape of your body. That can mean fully or partly defining the waist and hips, the shape of your arms and legs, the bust, your bottom, or the shape of your shoulders. Showcasing bare skin creates structure because you can see the shape of your body in all its glory when there is nothing covering it. That’s why a shorter hemline on a sack dress that showcases more of the leg can create structure.

Second, it’s about accentuating these details. Like a sharp shouldered jacket that creates an extra strong shoulder line. The princess seams and welted pocket positions on a jacket that draw attention to a defined waist. Or vertical lines and columns of colour that create vertical integrity.

I’ve noticed that I frequently use four styling strategies to create some structure amidst the deliberate fluidity of my outfits.

Scrunching

I wear long sleeved sweaters, shirts, blouses, and sweatshirts very frequently, and almost always scrunch the sleeves to showcase forearm skin for both visual and practical reasons. Scrunched sleeves showcase skin which creates outfit structure and a bit of textural interest. I also find three quarter sleeves, which is the length the long sleeves are scrunched to, very practical because I wear wrist braces when I type. The shorter sleeve is handy for cooking, cleaning, doing things around the house, and working with my clients.

I scrunch the sleeves of denim jackets and some blazers for the same reasons. But I do not scrunch the sleeves of other types of jackets or outerwear. My arms need to stay covered and insulated to weather the elements.

Tucking

I tuck or semi-tuck regular length tops into bottoms that are high or mid rise to temper the volume of their fluidity and showcase some or a lot of waist definition. The effect of the shorter top has the added advantage of visually lengthening the leg line from the hips upward. This is especially effective because I do not wear heels. That said, I’m happy to wear boxy untucked tops too. It depends on my mood, the top, my activities, and the outfit as to how much structure I feel like incorporating into my look that day.

Popping

I love to wear shirts, jackets, coats, and dresses with tailored collars because the design feature is a slam dunk for my body type. The high neckline of a collar is a great way to shorten and add structure to my very long neck and narrow shoulder line. The added coverage of popping a collar accentuates the structure and height of the neckline. Very short hair helps the collars stay popped.

Cuffing

Sometimes I like to cuff the hems of some of my more fluid pants and jeans to create just the right hem tapering and length with the footwear I’m wearing. The right length adds a subtle form of structure by showcasing the right amount of skin on the ankles. It’s amazing how much visual impact a couple of inches can make. I don’t cuff the hems of wide crops, wide legs, cropped flares, or bootcuts, but tend to cuff with relaxed straights, boyfriend jeans, and some style of carrot pants.

Over to you. Do you use any of these styling techniques?

Outfit Formula: Easy Summer Dresses

The next few outfit formula posts will be for Team Dress. If you like wearing easy breezy dresses, like I do, you’ll try to wear them as often as you can in the late Spring and Summer when the weather is perfect for them. There are countless dress styles to choose from. Some silhouettes are more skimpy and others more covered, depending on whether you like to bare or cover skin in the sun and heat. Some are very casual and others a little dressier.

Here are some dresses to inspire you.

COS
Wrap Shirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
3
COS
Linen Shirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
2
Gap
Popover Dress
View Info
Top Pick
3
Gap
Midi Shirtdress
View Info
Top Pick
4
Athleta
Gap Presidio Dress
View Info
Top Pick
7
Zara
TIERED MIDI DRESS
View Info
Top Pick
5
Zara
TIE-DYE DRESS
View Info
Top Pick
3
Eloquii
Easy Shirtdress
View Info
Top Pick
2
Eloquii
Wrap Skirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
2
Eloquii
Dip Dye Slipdress
View Info
Top Pick
3
Eloquii
Wrap Around Dress
View Info
Top Pick
2
COS
Midi Shirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
3
Gap
Denim Popover Dress
View Info
Top Pick
1
Gap
Popover Dress
View Info
Top Pick
5
Boden
Yolande Shift Dress
View Info
Top Pick
2
Boden
Rowena Shirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
3

You can relax a dressier dress with a casual support act of fashion sneakers, flat mules, ballet flats, casual sandals, espadrilles, a crossbody, backpack, straw bag, straw hat, and casual jewellery. You can also add a denim jacket, linen or cotton scarf, or casual cardigan when it’s chillier during the day.

Over the next few Fridays, I’ll be sharing the types of pull-on-and-go dresses that are most popular with my clientele. Some enjoy waist definition, some don’t, and some mix it up. The most important factor is comfort, ease, and a certain amount of figure flattery, which means different silhouettes to different people.

1. Boxy Shirtdress

This is like wearing a big baggy shirt that can finish above, on, or below the knee. Boxy shirt dresses are great in woven solids and patterns, and extra fab in cotton and linen. Straighter figures tend to enjoy this type of straight dress, but some of my curvier clients like it too. Some versions have a subtle drawstring that adds a bit of waist definition. Some versions are sans buttons. Most of them have collars, but some are collarless. Scrunch or roll the sleeves if they’re long to showcase some forearm skin. Add a casual support act and you’re good to go. Here, the ornate thong sandals and straw bag add a playful touch.

Boxy Shirtdress

2. Sleeveless Fit & Flare

Woven versions are aplenty, but generally this type of dress is easiest to wear in a knit for a more forgiving fit around the bust. The wrap-front versions might need a stitch or some fashion tape to prevent the neckline from falling open. Watch that the armholes aren’t too low, but sometimes that’s an easy alteration. Make sure that the waistband falls comfortably under the bust, and that the torso isn’t too long on petites. Having the straps taken up to shorten the torso and create narrower armholes is also an easy alteration. I love how the model added classic elegance with dainty jewellery, and spunk with the cream ankle boots. The swooshy skirt component is extra fabulous.

Sleeveless Fit and Flare

3. Architectural

This type of dress can have a lot of attitude, and there are many, many versions of the look. To my eye, architectural dress draping is beyond body type with a version for everyone if you fancy the voluminous vibe. Keep the support act simple and let the boldness of the dress do the talking. This one is from Ruti, but brands like COS, Artful Home, Universal Standard, Eileen Fisher and Poetry have good versions too.

Architectural

4. Column with Side Slits

A column dress is long, straight, roomy but not too voluminous, and has side slits for ease of movement. The neckline can be a V-neckline, scoop or shirt collar. The sleeves are elbow-length, short, cap or sleeveless. This type of silhouette can work on straighter and hourglass figures. I’ve seen some clients pop a belt around this type of dress too. A straw bag and casual sandals are an easy addition. Add jewellery, watch, hat and eyewear a desired.

Column with Side Slits

I have a version of all these dresses, and wear them frequently in warm weather. I like to mix it up with volume and waist definition depending on my mood. Personally, I prefer my frocks at a midi length, or on the longer side of midi. They must also flow and be very unconstricting from the waist down so I stick to A-line, flared, or boxy cuts. Do you wear a version of these silhouettes?

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

Read More

Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

Read More

Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

Read More

Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

Read More

Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

Read More

Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Belts and Your Style

Belts are great. They are practical, improving the waist fit of your bottoms and keeping them up. Visually, they add polish, structure, dimension, and textural interest to a look. When matched to shoes, bags, scarves, or another component of the outfit, they can help to pull it together. They can also be design features on dresses, jackets, pants, jeans, shorts and coats. Or they can be worn invisibly to prevent bottoms from slipping down the body. Belts come in all sorts of widths, lengths, fabrics, colours, and silhouettes.

Shopbop
Nanushka Dae Belt
View Info
Top Pick
2
COS
Classic Leather Belt
View Info
Top Pick
1
Eloquii
Wide Waist Bow Belt
View Info
Top Pick
2
Eloquii
Ankle Linen Trouser
View Info
Top Pick
2
Eloquii
Plaid Kady Trouser
View Info
Top Pick
1

Despite the potential fabness of belts, my clientele, friends and family seldom wear them. They are a low priority when working from home, especially with the popularity of elastic waists and leggings. Belts are thought to be uncomfortable on the waist and hips, add bulk, look bulky under outerwear, draw unwanted attention to the midriff, draw unwanted attention to the bust, and make people feel short-waisted or chopped in half. With many people on Team Untucked Top, belts are a superfluous and fussy accessory.

I’ve worn a lot of belts over the years. In the ‘80s they were wide and waist-cinching, or low slung on the hips and worn with anything. In the ‘90s I sported them with low-rise jeans and pants, which unfortunately chafed my hips. In the ‘00s and a little beyond, I wore belts with all sorts of mid-rise pants, and especially with slouchy boyfriend styles. About six years ago I stopped wearing belts but continue to tuck and semi-tuck tops, and of course wear untucked tops too. I guess as the rest of my style became more maximal, pattern-mixed, and even brighter, adding a belt to my bottoms was too much of a good thing. Generally, I like belts better when they are incorporated into my simpler outfits. I do not find them uncomfortable when worn with mid and high rises though.

I’m not into adding a separate belt to my outfits on this leg of my style journey, but I do wear self-fabric belts on dresses, pants and outerwear. I enjoy their subtle addition, and how they don’t interfere with the rest of the outfit. I like the waist definition too. Here are my self-fabric belt items.

For those that feel belt challenged but would like to wear them, these tips might help. I’m sure I’ll be back to wearing more of a statement belt at some point. For now, I’m following what feels right. Do you wear belts, and if so, how do they feature in your style? Or do you stay clear of belts. 

The Short Boxy Chunky Cardigan

The short boxy chunky cardigan has gone mainstream, and takes me back to the ’90s. It’s a Spring and Summery item because although some versions are fairly chunky, silhouettes are generally lightweight, loosely knitted, and made of cotton, linen, or blends of these fibres. 

It’s in true ‘90s style when the boxy cardigan is worn over a cutaway or racerback tank top, or something else fitted and skin-revealing like a camisole, tight tee, cropped top, or sleeveless top that matches the cardigan for a twinset effect. The idea is to wear the cardigan open to showcase a form-fitting top. The combination of baggy cardigan worn over an alluring top creates a fun juxtaposition. Of course, you can wear a more covered and fluid top underneath a boxy cardigan if that’s more to your taste. And do up the buttons. Most versions are V-neck, thereby showcasing skin.

Here are some examples.

COS
Striped V-neck Cardigan
View Info
Top Pick
3
Mango
Button Knit Cardigan
View Info
Top Pick
2

The cropped length of the cardigan tempers its boxiness. Scrunching the sleeves showcases skin, which creates some structure too. You can wear the cardigan as a top by buttoning it up. Many of the cardigans have a welt, which adds structure at the waist. The sleeves of these types of cardigans can be wide, baggy, and intentionally long. In some cases that’s part of the look, and you might like the oversized and very relaxed effect. If you don’t, choose a version with a more tailored sleeve.

The short, boxy chunky Summer cardigan can be worn in transitional weather, in the cooler mornings and evenings, at the beach over shorts when the wind picks up, or as an additional layer in air conditioning. If you’re going to take the cardigan off as it warms up, make sure you like the top you’re wearing with it unlayered too. This type of short boxy chunky Spring and Summer cardigan is hard to layer under a jacket or coat, so it’s best to keep it as the only topper.

You can combine the top and boxy cardigan with all sorts of jeans, pants, shorts and skirts. It’s cute over a form-fitting sheath, slip dress, or fit-and-flare strappy dress too. Don’t be put off by the shorter length of the cardigan. In my experience, the shorter versions that finish on or a little above your hip bone can be easier to style and create flattering proportions. My clients who are into this look have definitely found the shorter ones easier to style with bottoms and dresses.

I don’t wear cardigans that often, but I do like the short boxy chunky cardigan. I have two new modern classic fine gauge cropped cardigans that I button up and wear as tops, and I’ve enjoyed that silhouette a lot as a way to change up my knitwear style. They are crew necked, which is better suited to my body type than a V-neck. I can also layer them under jackets and coats, which is practical for a Seattle climate. That said, I’d wear one of these with a top that created a twinset effect, and keep the top underneath high in the neck to offset the V-neck of the cardigan. I’d also keep the sleeves quite tailored. It makes a nice Summery change to a denim jacket.

Over to you. What do you think of the short boxy chunky cardigan? Would you wear the silhouette?

Madewell Plus Tie Dye Broadway Cardigan Sweater