Scrunching, Tucking, Popping and Cuffing

I enjoy the visual effect when I create some structure in my fluid and fluidly tailored outfits. It makes my outfits look neater, dressier, more polished. To me it feels more comfortable and more attractive. Highly structured outfits are not for me. I don’t like to wear items that are tight, form-fitting, body-encasing, or restrict my movement. My outfits have to flow, move when I move, and to some extent stand away from my body.

To recap, structure is about two main things. First, it means deliberately accentuating, or gently hinting at, the actual shape of your body. That can mean fully or partly defining the waist and hips, the shape of your arms and legs, the bust, your bottom, or the shape of your shoulders. Showcasing bare skin creates structure because you can see the shape of your body in all its glory when there is nothing covering it. That’s why a shorter hemline on a sack dress that showcases more of the leg can create structure.

Second, it’s about accentuating these details. Like a sharp shouldered jacket that creates an extra strong shoulder line. The princess seams and welted pocket positions on a jacket that draw attention to a defined waist. Or vertical lines and columns of colour that create vertical integrity.

I’ve noticed that I frequently use four styling strategies to create some structure amidst the deliberate fluidity of my outfits.

Scrunching

I wear long sleeved sweaters, shirts, blouses, and sweatshirts very frequently, and almost always scrunch the sleeves to showcase forearm skin for both visual and practical reasons. Scrunched sleeves showcase skin which creates outfit structure and a bit of textural interest. I also find three quarter sleeves, which is the length the long sleeves are scrunched to, very practical because I wear wrist braces when I type. The shorter sleeve is handy for cooking, cleaning, doing things around the house, and working with my clients.

I scrunch the sleeves of denim jackets and some blazers for the same reasons. But I do not scrunch the sleeves of other types of jackets or outerwear. My arms need to stay covered and insulated to weather the elements.

Tucking

I tuck or semi-tuck regular length tops into bottoms that are high or mid rise to temper the volume of their fluidity and showcase some or a lot of waist definition. The effect of the shorter top has the added advantage of visually lengthening the leg line from the hips upward. This is especially effective because I do not wear heels. That said, I’m happy to wear boxy untucked tops too. It depends on my mood, the top, my activities, and the outfit as to how much structure I feel like incorporating into my look that day.

Popping

I love to wear shirts, jackets, coats, and dresses with tailored collars because the design feature is a slam dunk for my body type. The high neckline of a collar is a great way to shorten and add structure to my very long neck and narrow shoulder line. The added coverage of popping a collar accentuates the structure and height of the neckline. Very short hair helps the collars stay popped.

Cuffing

Sometimes I like to cuff the hems of some of my more fluid pants and jeans to create just the right hem tapering and length with the footwear I’m wearing. The right length adds a subtle form of structure by showcasing the right amount of skin on the ankles. It’s amazing how much visual impact a couple of inches can make. I don’t cuff the hems of wide crops, wide legs, cropped flares, or bootcuts, but tend to cuff with relaxed straights, boyfriend jeans, and some style of carrot pants.

Over to you. Do you use any of these styling techniques?

Outfit Formula: Easy Summer Dresses

The next few outfit formula posts will be for Team Dress. If you like wearing easy breezy dresses, like I do, you’ll try to wear them as often as you can in the late Spring and Summer when the weather is perfect for them. There are countless dress styles to choose from. Some silhouettes are more skimpy and others more covered, depending on whether you like to bare or cover skin in the sun and heat. Some are very casual and others a little dressier.

Here are some dresses to inspire you.

COS
Wrap Shirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
3
COS
Linen Shirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
2
Gap
Popover Dress
View Info
Top Pick
3
Gap
Midi Shirtdress
View Info
Top Pick
4
Athleta
Gap Presidio Dress
View Info
Top Pick
7
Zara
TIERED MIDI DRESS
View Info
Top Pick
5
Zara
TIE-DYE DRESS
View Info
Top Pick
3
Eloquii
Easy Shirtdress
View Info
Top Pick
2
Eloquii
Wrap Skirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
2
Eloquii
Dip Dye Slipdress
View Info
Top Pick
3
Eloquii
Wrap Around Dress
View Info
Top Pick
2
COS
Midi Shirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
3
Gap
Denim Popover Dress
View Info
Top Pick
1
Gap
Popover Dress
View Info
Top Pick
5
Boden
Yolande Shift Dress
View Info
Top Pick
2
Boden
Rowena Shirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
3

You can relax a dressier dress with a casual support act of fashion sneakers, flat mules, ballet flats, casual sandals, espadrilles, a crossbody, backpack, straw bag, straw hat, and casual jewellery. You can also add a denim jacket, linen or cotton scarf, or casual cardigan when it’s chillier during the day.

Over the next few Fridays, I’ll be sharing the types of pull-on-and-go dresses that are most popular with my clientele. Some enjoy waist definition, some don’t, and some mix it up. The most important factor is comfort, ease, and a certain amount of figure flattery, which means different silhouettes to different people.

1. Boxy Shirtdress

This is like wearing a big baggy shirt that can finish above, on, or below the knee. Boxy shirt dresses are great in woven solids and patterns, and extra fab in cotton and linen. Straighter figures tend to enjoy this type of straight dress, but some of my curvier clients like it too. Some versions have a subtle drawstring that adds a bit of waist definition. Some versions are sans buttons. Most of them have collars, but some are collarless. Scrunch or roll the sleeves if they’re long to showcase some forearm skin. Add a casual support act and you’re good to go. Here, the ornate thong sandals and straw bag add a playful touch.

Boxy Shirtdress

2. Sleeveless Fit & Flare

Woven versions are aplenty, but generally this type of dress is easiest to wear in a knit for a more forgiving fit around the bust. The wrap-front versions might need a stitch or some fashion tape to prevent the neckline from falling open. Watch that the armholes aren’t too low, but sometimes that’s an easy alteration. Make sure that the waistband falls comfortably under the bust, and that the torso isn’t too long on petites. Having the straps taken up to shorten the torso and create narrower armholes is also an easy alteration. I love how the model added classic elegance with dainty jewellery, and spunk with the cream ankle boots. The swooshy skirt component is extra fabulous.

Sleeveless Fit and Flare

3. Architectural

This type of dress can have a lot of attitude, and there are many, many versions of the look. To my eye, architectural dress draping is beyond body type with a version for everyone if you fancy the voluminous vibe. Keep the support act simple and let the boldness of the dress do the talking. This one is from Ruti, but brands like COS, Artful Home, Universal Standard, Eileen Fisher and Poetry have good versions too.

Architectural

4. Column with Side Slits

A column dress is long, straight, roomy but not too voluminous, and has side slits for ease of movement. The neckline can be a V-neckline, scoop or shirt collar. The sleeves are elbow-length, short, cap or sleeveless. This type of silhouette can work on straighter and hourglass figures. I’ve seen some clients pop a belt around this type of dress too. A straw bag and casual sandals are an easy addition. Add jewellery, watch, hat and eyewear a desired.

Column with Side Slits

I have a version of all these dresses, and wear them frequently in warm weather. I like to mix it up with volume and waist definition depending on my mood. Personally, I prefer my frocks at a midi length, or on the longer side of midi. They must also flow and be very unconstricting from the waist down so I stick to A-line, flared, or boxy cuts. Do you wear a version of these silhouettes?

Belts and Your Style

Belts are great. They are practical, improving the waist fit of your bottoms and keeping them up. Visually, they add polish, structure, dimension, and textural interest to a look. When matched to shoes, bags, scarves, or another component of the outfit, they can help to pull it together. They can also be design features on dresses, jackets, pants, jeans, shorts and coats. Or they can be worn invisibly to prevent bottoms from slipping down the body. Belts come in all sorts of widths, lengths, fabrics, colours, and silhouettes.

Shopbop
Nanushka Dae Belt
View Info
Top Pick
2
COS
Classic Leather Belt
View Info
Top Pick
1
Eloquii
Wide Waist Bow Belt
View Info
Top Pick
2
Eloquii
Ankle Linen Trouser
View Info
Top Pick
2
Eloquii
Plaid Kady Trouser
View Info
Top Pick
1

Despite the potential fabness of belts, my clientele, friends and family seldom wear them. They are a low priority when working from home, especially with the popularity of elastic waists and leggings. Belts are thought to be uncomfortable on the waist and hips, add bulk, look bulky under outerwear, draw unwanted attention to the midriff, draw unwanted attention to the bust, and make people feel short-waisted or chopped in half. With many people on Team Untucked Top, belts are a superfluous and fussy accessory.

I’ve worn a lot of belts over the years. In the ‘80s they were wide and waist-cinching, or low slung on the hips and worn with anything. In the ‘90s I sported them with low-rise jeans and pants, which unfortunately chafed my hips. In the ‘00s and a little beyond, I wore belts with all sorts of mid-rise pants, and especially with slouchy boyfriend styles. About six years ago I stopped wearing belts but continue to tuck and semi-tuck tops, and of course wear untucked tops too. I guess as the rest of my style became more maximal, pattern-mixed, and even brighter, adding a belt to my bottoms was too much of a good thing. Generally, I like belts better when they are incorporated into my simpler outfits. I do not find them uncomfortable when worn with mid and high rises though.

I’m not into adding a separate belt to my outfits on this leg of my style journey, but I do wear self-fabric belts on dresses, pants and outerwear. I enjoy their subtle addition, and how they don’t interfere with the rest of the outfit. I like the waist definition too. Here are my self-fabric belt items.

For those that feel belt challenged but would like to wear them, these tips might help. I’m sure I’ll be back to wearing more of a statement belt at some point. For now, I’m following what feels right. Do you wear belts, and if so, how do they feature in your style? Or do you stay clear of belts. 

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

Read More

Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

Read More

Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

Read More

Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

Read More

Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

Read More

Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

The Short Boxy Chunky Cardigan

The short boxy chunky cardigan has gone mainstream, and takes me back to the ’90s. It’s a Spring and Summery item because although some versions are fairly chunky, silhouettes are generally lightweight, loosely knitted, and made of cotton, linen, or blends of these fibres. 

It’s in true ‘90s style when the boxy cardigan is worn over a cutaway or racerback tank top, or something else fitted and skin-revealing like a camisole, tight tee, cropped top, or sleeveless top that matches the cardigan for a twinset effect. The idea is to wear the cardigan open to showcase a form-fitting top. The combination of baggy cardigan worn over an alluring top creates a fun juxtaposition. Of course, you can wear a more covered and fluid top underneath a boxy cardigan if that’s more to your taste. And do up the buttons. Most versions are V-neck, thereby showcasing skin.

Here are some examples.

COS
Striped V-neck Cardigan
View Info
Top Pick
3
Mango
Button Knit Cardigan
View Info
Top Pick
2

The cropped length of the cardigan tempers its boxiness. Scrunching the sleeves showcases skin, which creates some structure too. You can wear the cardigan as a top by buttoning it up. Many of the cardigans have a welt, which adds structure at the waist. The sleeves of these types of cardigans can be wide, baggy, and intentionally long. In some cases that’s part of the look, and you might like the oversized and very relaxed effect. If you don’t, choose a version with a more tailored sleeve.

The short, boxy chunky Summer cardigan can be worn in transitional weather, in the cooler mornings and evenings, at the beach over shorts when the wind picks up, or as an additional layer in air conditioning. If you’re going to take the cardigan off as it warms up, make sure you like the top you’re wearing with it unlayered too. This type of short boxy chunky Spring and Summer cardigan is hard to layer under a jacket or coat, so it’s best to keep it as the only topper.

You can combine the top and boxy cardigan with all sorts of jeans, pants, shorts and skirts. It’s cute over a form-fitting sheath, slip dress, or fit-and-flare strappy dress too. Don’t be put off by the shorter length of the cardigan. In my experience, the shorter versions that finish on or a little above your hip bone can be easier to style and create flattering proportions. My clients who are into this look have definitely found the shorter ones easier to style with bottoms and dresses.

I don’t wear cardigans that often, but I do like the short boxy chunky cardigan. I have two new modern classic fine gauge cropped cardigans that I button up and wear as tops, and I’ve enjoyed that silhouette a lot as a way to change up my knitwear style. They are crew necked, which is better suited to my body type than a V-neck. I can also layer them under jackets and coats, which is practical for a Seattle climate. That said, I’d wear one of these with a top that created a twinset effect, and keep the top underneath high in the neck to offset the V-neck of the cardigan. I’d also keep the sleeves quite tailored. It makes a nice Summery change to a denim jacket.

Over to you. What do you think of the short boxy chunky cardigan? Would you wear the silhouette?

Madewell Plus Tie Dye Broadway Cardigan Sweater

Weekly Roundup: All Sorts of Fits

This week’s list covers a variety of wardrobe items across a range of fits. I’ve added some Swedish COS items for those who enjoy an architectural and voluminous touch to their look, although these items are more gently architectural than typical COS designs. I’m 5 foot 6 and slight in frame, and can wear voluminous COS items if there is just enough structure in the right places. So please don’t be put off by the volume if you fancy the idea, but feel that silhouettes will overwhelm you. You have to take it item by item, select wisely, and give it a chance. Both hubs Greg and I love COS and have several items in our wardrobes. Their items are great quality, and always a little different to everything else. Browse the colours, size options, and read the rave reviews for an alternative opinion to mine

  • P448 Star Embossed High Top Sneaker: This brand makes really comfy sneakers with easy side zipper access. They might run narrow if you have wider feet, but loosening the laces helps. The lilac and turquoise snakeskin is deliciously unique.
  • KIYONNA Promenade Top: A boho-lite top that's super flattering and easy to wear if you sport an empire waist under the bust well. It's forgiving on the midsection and very comfy. Lots of a patterns and colours to choose from.
  • Nic + Zoe NIC + ZOE Mixed-Up Blooms Midi Dress: Fun Patchwork Shirt Dress Fabness. The placement of the contrasting patterns down the centre front creates ample vertical integrity.
  • Gap High Rise Cigarette Jeans with Secret Smoothing Pockets With Washwell: These work really well on BOTH straighter and curvier hips, seat and thighs. Click the links to see different models wear the same silhouette. Straighter figures might need to size down.
  • Swedish Hasbeens Mirja Platform Sandal: These clogged sandals are a winner with Team Clog every season. The smaller peep-toe area makes them work better for a narrower foot or pointy foot for a change. Delicious in lime, and comes in tan.
  • Adidas Originals Track Pants: Modern Retro Joggers for Team Sporty. The earthy colour is unique, and fab with a black and white support act. They are NYLON so make sure you like the fabric.
  • MARINA RINALDI Occhiali Directional Stripe Jersey Shift Dress: A beautifully fluid frock with structure in all the right places. Forgiving on the midsection, trendy yet classic, and elegantly relaxed.
  • Madewell The Jean Jacket: If you're looking for an authentic crisp denim jacket WITHOUT stretch - try this one.
  • Sanctuary Ives Long Sleeve Top: This tee is well suited to a larger bust, shorter neck, and is reasonably forgiving on the midsection. It's fluid but not overly so. Good length too.
  • ADYSON PARKER Slouchy Fleece Hoodie: A slouchy hoodie with a shark-bite hem in this shade of mint is a rare find. The tailored sleeves provide a nice bit of structure. Available in more colours.
  • Vince Night Garden Floral Square Neck Satin Dress: I don't know how this fits in person, but the drape of the bias cut looks gorgeous. It's the first time I've seen a more size-inclusive option from the brand. Good for Team Moody Floral.
  • Sanctuary Terrain Camo Cargo Pants: These work well on a straighter and curvier bottom half. Clean, relaxed yet polished fit. Straighter figures may need to size down.
  • SLINK Jeans Easy Fit Distressed Drawstring Denim Bermuda Shorts: Great fitting longer denim shorts with a mid-rise.
  • Boden Heather Split Neck Blouse: An easy breezy and fluid cotton Summer blouse for Team Tropical Bird. Comes in rainbow leopard too.
  • COS Wrap Shirt Dress: Click the link to see this fun architectural wrap dress in action. By all means wear it as a tunic too. It can also be worn as a boxy and straight shirt dress. Comes in beige.
  • COS Leather Bowling Bag: A '90s inspired bowling bag with a 2021 twist for Team Black Crossbody.
  • COS Oversized Sweatshirt: Apparently this is one of COS's best selling items. Ombré Tie-Dye Oversized Sweatshirt Fabness. It looks more polished than you expect despite the slouch. I love it combined with a dressy support act. Model looks smashing.
  • COS Wrap Shirt: The asymmetrical and optional wrap-front detailing of this shirt gives it structure and architectural flair. It can be worn big and boxy too. It's the type of style that is beyond body type. You have to let it hang, do its thing, which you either like the effect of or you don't. It can be worn with sleeker and wider bottoms, or silhouettes like cropped flares and bootcuts that are sleek on the thighs and flared at the hems. Shirts are my thing, and I've ordered it.
  • COS Ribbed Cardigan: This is an unusually classic cardigan for COS. The shade of mustardy chartreuse is rare, so it's well worth a look. The stitch detailing creates vertical integrity and adds interest. Comes in some neutrals.
  • COS Boxy Sweatshirt: I love the architectural shape of the sleeves, which you can see in detail when you click the link. It's fab paired with a pencil skirt, wider pants, or sleek pants. This takes me back to the glorious '80s and comes in more colours. I'd be trying it if it layered well under toppers.
  • Jeffrey Campbell Student Platform Loafer: '90s Platform Loafer Fabness. Not for fussy feet, so you've been warned. Super dandy and fun. Check out the other colour combinations.
  • COS High Waisted Pleated Pants: COS makes really nice pleated pants if you like the silhouette. I had a similar pair to these in navy that were passed on due to a dry cleaning mishap, but I really liked them. Plenty of room in the seat and thighs. Comes in black.
  • COS Ribbed Knitted Top: If you're after a tight top to wear with skirts that does not cling - try this one. Comes in a coppery gold mustard. Soft and comfy. Easy to layer under toppers with fluid sleeves.
  • Madewell Bayview Balloon Sleeve Jacket: If you like earthy trapeze toppers, try this one that comes in cinnamon. Click the link to see the playful pleated back. Can work well on apple-shaped body types.
  • Børn Cove Modern Leather Sandals: Very comfortable slip-on sandals with covered ankles that work well for lower volume feet.

You can see the items alongside my descriptions on the collection page.

COS
Wrap Shirt Dress
View Info
Top Pick
6
COS
Leather Bowling Bag
View Info
Top Pick
4
COS
Oversized Sweatshirt
View Info
Top Pick
3
COS
Wrap Shirt
View Info
Top Pick
11
COS
Ribbed Cardigan
View Info
Top Pick
8
COS
Boxy Sweatshirt
View Info
Top Pick
3
COS
Ribbed Knitted Top
View Info
Top Pick
6