Layering with White Button-Down Shirts

Solid white button-down (or button-through) shirts haven’t been popular on YLF or with my clients. Back when they were a wardrobe essential for my style, I was one of the few people I knew who wore them. For many they felt corporate, overly dressy, stiff, uncomfortable, too classic, and generally unattractive. Fits gaped at the bust, or were boxy and tent-y around the midsection. Some didn’t like collars, while others felt awful in white. And some simply disliked the wear and laundry aspects of keeping a white shirt clean and pristine.

Many years later, and I’m wondering if feelings about white collared shirts have changed, because the way we wear them has changed. Fabrics are softer, more casual, and some are wrinkle-free. White button-down shirts don’t need to be tailored, uncomfortable and stiff. If you wear them fluidly, they are forgiving and comfy. They can be layered in ways to create an interesting, finished, and crisp effect.

You can wear a white shirt without layers and make a statement. Or you can layer them under pullovers, cardigans, jackets, coats, vests, gilets, dungarees, sheath dresses, bra tops, capes, bustiers, ponchos and wraps. You can also wear them over a lace camisole, turtleneck, tank top, or striped tee. You can button them all the way through, or leave the collar open. You can pop the collar or leave it down. White button-downs are excellent colour contrast vehicles.

Here are some layered visual examples across casual and dressier looks.

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Woolen Coat With Belt
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I’m a button-down shirt person. I have worn them my whole life in cotton, linen, or cotton blends, and across a range of fits, silhouettes and lengths. I enjoy their roomy and boxy fit. I love their crisp, dressy, polished effect, and find them easy to fit. I wear them very fluidly, casually, semi-tucked, fully tucked, or untucked with casual bottoms or a skirt. I frequently scrunch the sleeves and pop the collar if it’s open. If the collar is buttoned through to the top, I wear the collar down. Button-down shirts are my ‘T-shirts’, and integral to my style.

For a while I preferred button-downs in patterns, and especially in some type of blue and white stripe. But I’m back to wearing solid white versions and those with self-colour white embroideries.

This is my current assortment. The first style is crisp and stiffer than the other two, which are soft and roomier.

I wear them UNlayered on a hot day because the silhouettes lend themselves best to wearing them that way. That said, I also like to layer them under lightweight jackets, or wear them with my pants suit. I like to pop a white camisole underneath to make the white look richer and brighter. I’d like to layer more creatively with a solid white button-down this year and will therefore get a very simple long-sleeved style in a fluid fit to do that with.

I used to frequently layer with my white shirts when I wore black and white outfits a decade ago. I’m not into black these days, having switched to dark blue. But layering with a white button-down shirt appeals to me so I’m going for it. I’m looking at Banana Republic, Ralph Lauren and Boden for the crisp wardrobe essential.

Over to you. How do you feel about layering with white button-down shirts these days?

Anthropologie Layered Tweed Tank Set

Jackets Under Coats: Yay or Nay

Wearing jackets under coats has its advantages. The double layer of toppers keeps you warm and insulated, and the layering can have a fab visual effect. The combination is great when you want to wear a jacket indoors because your outfit looks better with a jacket over the top. Or the jacket keeps you warm inside when a coat is too bulky.

Here the model is wearing a turtleneck under a streamlined blazer, and a roomy coat over the lot. The coat is especially roomy in the armholes, sleeves, and across the back, because that’s where the layers can get uncomfortably tight.

Jacket under Coat

On the other hand, you might find this combination too layered, heavy, constricting, hot, and bulky. Or it’s simply not necessary to wear a jacket indoors. Or it’s not cold enough to wear a double set of toppers. Some of my clients commute by car and brave the short time they are outdoors in the elements with a jacket and leave off the coat. Some of my clients will happily wear coats over their pants or skirt suits. Or over denim jackets and streamlined blazers.

I sometimes wear blazers and denim jackets under my roomier coats if I want to wear a jacket indoors. I find the look comfortable because my jackets are fluidly tailored and the coats that go over the top are very roomy. I’m a YAY. How about you?

Fashion News Roundup: January 2022

The big hair colour trends for 2022, an iconic handbag making a comeback, and other style news that caught our eye in January.

Fun Fashion Quote

I like Stacy London’s thoughts on the aging process, and the term ‘anti-aging’:

“I’m trying to train myself to look at these changes with wonder and fascination, rather than anxiety. Because the whole world tells us that aging is bad, and I just don’t buy it. Change is scary, and yeah, it is weird to look in the mirror and be like, ‘That’s not me. That’s not what I looked like at 38.’ But I want to be welcoming to those changes. So, when I notice more grey hairs, I’ll say little things to myself in the mirror, like, ‘I can’t wait to see more of you.’ … It’s so cliche to be like, ‘Anti-aging marketing is bad!’ But I cannot stand it. To be against aging is to be against the thing that’s inevitable for all of us — if we’re lucky. So, I can’t understand how anybody could write that on a product or in an ad campaign. What I’m hoping is that we start to lower our beauty expectations. And I don’t mean that we should think less of ourselves or that we aren’t good enough. I mean I hope we start to realize that we’re good enough as we are.”

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Outfit Formula: Cold-Weather White Jeans

White jeans might not work in your cold, wet, slushy and snowy winters. But they can work in mild winters, in transitional weather, or in spring before temperatures warm up. You can also wear off-white or cream jeans instead of optical white. I’m going to pull out my white jeans soon, and wear them with a warm and woolly support act.

If you do wear white jeans in cold or cool weather, here are some outfit ideas.

1. Graphic Neutrals

Chunky lug-soled boots are on-trend, and we’re seeing them all over the show as the ‘90s have their fashion moment. Here, a black turtleneck and pair of lug-soled boots effectively sandwich a pair of white relaxed straight jeans. A black bag completes the black complement. Top the lot off with a casual jacket or coat like this fun olive puffer and you’re done.

Graphic Neutrals

2. Nautical and Clogged

This is a great look for milder weather. Combine white jeans with a nautically striped cotton-rich pullover. Finish things off with clogs. These are a shade of white to match the large component of white in the outfit. Note that the whites do not need to match. At least, to my eye they don’t. I love the fluidity and width of these silhouettes. The clogs add a fun Dutch touch. This is my favourite of the four looks and I’ll take the whole outfit, please.

Nautical and Clogged

3. Lots of Layers

These layers are long, roomy, and an interesting mix. Combine white jeans with a turtleneck. Pop a shacket over the top and an anorak or parka over that. Finish things off with casual boots that work with the outfit. Here, the on-trend black lug-soled boots bookend the model’s hair, pulling the look together. A black turtleneck instead of a taupe one would have matched the black shoes and buttons of the shacket. I quite like the way the seafoam works with the khaki shade of olive, but feel free to choose your own palette.

Lots-of Layers

4. Crisply Earthy

Shades of white look fab with earth tones like toffee, cinnamon, brown and tan. Here a patterned earthy hoodie is combined with white jeans and beige boots. A long tan trench coat tops things off, thereby adding dressy drama. A structured white bag adds a polished touch, and matches the white bottoms. Add jewellery, watch, headgear and eyewear as desired.

Crisply Earthy

When to Commit to Placeholder Wardrobe Items

A placeholder is an almost perfect purchase that you will wear until a better version comes along. While a perfect item is first prize, there are situations when an almost perfect purchase is the right way to go. For example, you might be under time pressure so you compromised to satisfy an urgent need.

That said, some of our forum members have set goals to stop purchasing placeholder items because they’ve accumulated too many of them. This resulted in a wardrobe that fell short of their expectations, as well as the guilt associated with wasting money. This brings me to how I guide my clients on whether to commit or pass on a placeholder, so that they don’t amass a collection of items that are headed for the donation pile way before their time.

Commit if you can alter

If you can do alterations to create the perfect item, purchase it and get cracking with the alterations. If you’re unsure, purchase the item, take it to a tailor and hear their suggestions. If you can successfully dye the item, or repurpose and upcycle it in a brilliantly creative way, then commit to the purchase.

Commit to hard-to-find and hard-to-fit items

Some items are extremely hard to fit and find, so we tend to compromise by wearing less than perfect versions. I’m inclined to say commit to this almost perfect purchase because it might be as good as it gets. This was true when I was shopping for very comfy white sandals in a very narrow fit. They had to stay on my feet, go the distance, and look reasonably okay. I had exactly two options available to me after years of searching, so I bought them. Aesthetically they were a bit of a compromise, but they did the job in extremely hot and humid weather and I was grateful to have happy feet.

Pass if it isn’t urgent

If the item does not satisfy an urgent need, hold out for something better. It doesn’t matter how long you’ve been waiting to fill a wardrobe hole, or replace an item that bit the dust. If you can make do with what you have, wait until something better comes along. That way you’ll reduce the quantity of less-than-perfect items in your wardrobe.

Don’t fall into the trap of committing to an almost perfect purchase that cannot be altered because it was on sale, inexpensive, hard to return, or you simply want to tick it off your shopping list. Something better will come your way.

Over to you. When do you commit or pass on placeholder items?