It doesn’t match, but it works

Most of us know when clothing and accessories match each other, and when they don’t. It’s less clear to us when clothing and accessories don’t match, but they do “work”. Mismatching stylishly is at the heart of retro European style. Designers and stylists do it frequently (albeit a bit over the top at times). Done correctly, mismatching will increase your style quotient. Done distastefully, it can be disastrous.

Here are a few tangible ways to mismatch with style:

  • Don’t match your shoes with your bag – throw in a bright green bag with your silver shoes, jeans and layered tops.
  • Don’t match your shoes with your outfit – instead of wearing a perfectly matching pair of black sling backs with your white slacks, black top and gold bag, throw in a pair of bright yellow or purple heels instead. Don’t worry about repeating that colour anywhere else – it works.
  • Mix patterns – different printed items of clothing work well together if the fabrics and colours are similar. Next time you think of putting a plain white top with your multi colored skirt, try making a subtle floral blouse in the same colours work instead.
  • Mismatch your last layer – whether it’s a jacket, cardigan or extra t-shirt, try adding an extra colour into the mix of your outfit with the last layer that you put on (e.g. light brown bottoms worn with a darker brown and cream knit top would welcome a red jacket, bronze shoes and green bag).
  • Colours that clash can work – wear red shoes with your pink dress, pop a purple top over an emerald green one, mix burgundy with orange and chartreuse – beautiful!

Think out of the box about how to mix and match the clothes in your wardrobe, but make sure that you don’t mismatch too many items at once. There will always have to be something pulling your look together – sometimes it can be the colour of your hair, or a single accessory.

Having a go at “mismatching” items that work prevents me from getting bored with the clothing in my wardrobe!

The brassier beneath

As a personal dresser for DFSS, I attended a “bra seminar” about a year ago that was hosted by Chantelle (French Lingerie Company) at Nordstrom. It was brilliant!

Fact #1: Over 60% of women worldwide wear the incorrect bra size.

Generally speaking, women are wearing their cup sizes too small and their under-band widths too wide. If you thought you were a 36C, chances are that you’re a 34D. This is a common fault I encounter with the people I dress – most of them are initially horrified to be put into double and triple D’s after busting out of their C cups, but they’re happy with the results.

Fact #2: Cup sizes on bras are not created equally.

A “C” cup on a 38C is much larger than the “C” cup on a 32C. Do not be caught up with sizes ladies – going up a cup or two in your bra will often give you better shape and therefore instant gratification. Your bra should be the most important item in your wardrobe if you are a D cup or beyond.

Fact #3: A professional fitting could change your life.

Kiss spillage, knife cutting straps and lack of cleavage goodbye by getting yourself professionally fitted for the correct bra. Weight change, pregnancy, age and mastectomies change the shape of our bosom. Having yourself correctly fitted as often as these changes occur is ideal.

Nordstrom has perfected this service. Bra’s come in all shapes, sizes, colours and fabrics and their sales assistants are quick to spot what is best for your bosom shape, saving you a lot of time and hassle. In fact, subsequent to the Chantelle seminar, Oprah featured Nordstrom bras and their expert fitting assistants on one of her shows.

Whether it’s to enhance, minimize or lift – the right bra can transform your shape completely. Prioritize this on your shopping list if you haven’t already done so. 

One suit to rule them all

Men are rarely required to wear suits to work every day – “business casual” has become the norm. However, every so often gents are faced with a formal dress code and don’t know what to do. Hiring a tux is one way out, but not always called for.

Men’s’ suiting, and the trims that go along with it can be pricy – how does one go about making this investment if one wears suits infrequently? Here are some guidelines on the “one suit wardrobe” for gents:

  • Colour – if you have a “once a year” suit requirement, invest in a charcoal grey single-breasted 2 or 3 button suit with flat front trousers to match. Buy it in heavier weight wool. You’ll be able to cover all your bases with this option by dressing it up or down. If you are blonde and very fair, consider dark navy instead of dark grey – this might be more flattering. If you like, a subtle self-colour pinstripe is a more current option.
  • Brand – suit prices can range from $400 to $2000. My recommendation would be to buy nothing cheaper than a suit from Banana Republic, Brooks Brothers or J. Crew if you are budget conscious. In this way – you will be guaranteed an optimum level of quality (after all “boys need to buy better”). If you have more to spend, consider Hugo Boss, Joseph Aboud and Armani Collezioni.   
  • Black suits – it is not necessary to have a black suit in your wardrobe. Black suits are for funerals, ultra formal occasions, tremendously trendy events and gangsters. They are often inappropriate for anything else unless you have the knowledge on how to wear one correctly.
  • Shoes and trims – you’ll need to match your suit up with a narrow black and “finer in appearance” leather belt and formal shoes – preferably with a bit of sheen. Rubber soled loafers will not do. A white dress shirt is conservative, but a safe and professional option. If white is not your colour – opt for French blue. You cannot go wrong with a tie that has a small geometric print or bold diagonal stripe. You’ll be able to mix and match your shirt and shoes with your jeans, which will make it easier on your conscience when you invest.
  • White t-shirt – it’s a good idea to wear a white “undergarment t-shirt” under your dress shirt (bought in the underwear area). It defines the colour of the shirt that you are wearing and soaks up unsightly armpit perspiration (instead of your shirt).

Your suit, shirt and tie requirement will change as your need to wear formal suiting increases. Once your wardrobe extends beyond a single suit you can afford to get more daring and trendy. How to spend your money wisely and how to build a stylish suiting assortment will be topic of many a blog entry to follow!

      

On the left, charcoal grey wool suits from Calvin Klein and Alfani (available at Macy’s). Safe and professional options with white dress shirt and diagonal stripe tie,  or with French blue dress shirt and geometric tie. On the right, a slightly more stylish option: charcoal grey wool suit with sheen from Hugo Boss (available at Nordstrom) matched with pale grey dress shirt and geometric tie.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Boys need to buy Better

Women’s fashion changes significantly from season to season. Men’s fashion does not. For women to buy “throw away fashion” that lasts for a season is perfectly acceptable. This is not the best idea for men.

Let’s look at the typical wardrobe:

Women’s wardrobe – has a high turnover of a wide, yet shallow assortment of clothing. “Wide” in the sense that women have many different types of clothing in a variety of styles. “Shallow” meaning that there is barely a style that that is duplicated in their wardrobe.

Men’s wardrobe – has a low turnover of a narrow, yet deep assortment of clothing. “Narrow” in the sense that men have fewer types of clothing to choose from. “Deep” meaning that with each type of clothing, there is lots of duplication of style. Just consider the number of near-identical collared shirts that the average man has in his wardrobe.

Since men’s fashion has a longer life, men keep items for longer. It is therefore important for them to be discerning about quality by shopping at better-end chain stores (e.g. Banana Republic) and department stores (e.g. Nordstrom) for premium products (budget permitting of course). Hence: “boys need to buy better!”

Jeans that stay up

It is common to buy jeans that fit our bodies perfectly everywhere but on the waistline. This is especially true for pretty, pair shaped ladies with tiny torsos. A fashionable wide belt threaded through the belt loops of our jeans usually solves the problem. However, trendy longer length knitted tops and T’s pulled down to just over our hip bones don’t look nice with bulky belts showing through. The solution is simple: take off the belt. But when we do, we constantly find ourselves pulling our jeans up – which isn’t so stylish.

 So what are we to do? I’ve found 2 solutions:

  • Belt your longer length T or top at the hip in true ‘80’s fashion. This is especially effective with elasticized belts. You won’t find yourself pulling your jeans up when you walk. You will however need to straighten the ensemble every time you get up from sitting down.
  • Have the waistband on your jeans tailored. I‘ve just done this to a few pairs of jeans and it was money well spent (about $20 a pair). No pulling, bulging or straightening anymore.  The effect is especially noticeable on the day that you wear your jeans again without having popped them into the wash. Jeans tend to grow the more you wear them, which makes altering the waistband an even better idea.

Tailoring an existing pair of jeans is still going to be less expensive than buying another pair – you won’t be sorry!