It’s fun to see fashion turn full circle with a line-up of footwear trends that were all the rage a couple of decades ago. Some styles, like the toe mules, were fashionable as recently as fourteen years ago, which meant that they had a good run. And silhouettes like the sandals with mesh inserts generally kept their stylish flair despite the dated look of their ‘90s mates. 

‘90s footwear was generally chunky, heavy, square-toed, casual and black, which was quite a switch from the more delicate shoes of the ‘80s. Lug soles, flatforms and platforms reigned supreme, as did shoes with wide straps, large buckles, velcro fastenings, bulky laces, large soles, block heels, and silver hardware. Unisex footwear like Dr. Martens were popular in the early ‘90s, as were all styles of “tough boots” and blunt platform boots. Ladylike styles with pointy toes and slim heels were not the norm of the decade, but they weren’t absent either. 

Here are the ‘90s inspired fringe footwear styles that are coming through for Spring and Summer. They are not mainstream, but might gain momentum over time.

1.Toe Mules

Mules are backless slip-on shoes with covered toes. They were one of the few dainty styles of the decade, which made them stand out. They are elegant on the foot, but I found them hard to walk in. The heeled versions slipped off my feet, which meant that I had to curl my toes to keep them on. Hello foot cramp. The flatter versions were better, but often cut across the top of my foot. They also click loudly as you stride. That said, I like the way they look, and will enjoy them vicariously through you.

2. Chunky T-Bar Shoes

The T- bar shoe stays on the foot and is very supportive. Back in the ‘90s, the soles were heavy, which made them tiring to walk in. This time round they’re a lot lighter and more comfortable. They are best suited to high volume feet. I like them best in black, white or metallic. They can look a little juvenile so you’d have to add a degree of sophistication to make your overall look more grown-up. 

3. Sliders

I used to call them slides, but they’re called “sliders” this time round. The renditions can be dressy or casual depending on the material of the sole and the fabrication of the upper. Some of the footbeds can be arch supporting and cushioning, so don’t rule them out just because they’re flat. I like the versions that cover at least part of the bottom of the toe because that looks more elegant to my eye. Slides that expose the entire toe look too “caveman” for lack of a better description.

4. Block Heeled Platform Sandals 

A sandal with wide straps on top and a very chunky sole with block heel on the bottom. At least the front platform prevents the foot from being overly arched by the high heel. Casual, and a little more grown-up than the T-bar style.

5. Geek Shoes 

In brown or black these look like the shoes we wore with our school uniforms back in the ‘70s. I like them in the pastels and white a LOT more, because it softens the look. Soles are chunky, and some chunkier than others. It’s a comfortable and supportive shoe (which is why Clarks and Bata sold them as school shoes back in the day). Arty and “Harajuku”, especially when worn with socks, skirts and dresses. An acquired taste, but can be cute nonetheless.

6. Dr. Martens

Docs need little introduction (most of us probably wore the brand at some point). I’ve shown the non-boot styles here, of which there are many — these are by no means exhaustive. Chunky, masculine and with that signature resin sole. I’ve worn a lot of Docs in my day, either the original lace-up boots styles or monk strap oxfords. They take a while to break in, but they’re quite heavenly afterwards.

7. Platform Sneakers 

I bet most of us wore a version of platform sneakers. Some of the soles are still quite heavy, but lightweight versions are available too. The soles are either block-heeled or flatform. To my eye, black, white and metallic once again look best.

8. Sandals with Mesh Inserts

A more refined ‘90s inspired ped that might be the most wearable and versatile of the lot. Soles can be slim and dainty like the version on the right, or chunkier like the one on the left. Either way, the mesh inserts are interesting, alluring and Sporty Luxe.

9. Square Toes

Wider feet tend to enjoy the square toe because the footbed is roomier than a pointy toe. Square-toed shoes can be toe-covering or expose part of the toe. Almost any style of shoe can have a square toe. Here I’ve shown a sandal bootie on the left and slides on the right.

Back in the early ‘90s, I loved my Dr. Martens best of all. Later in the decade I liked wearing flat black slides made of soft leather or fully elasticated uppers because they were extremely comfortable. I also enjoyed wearing mesh insert sandals with velcro straps. It was amazing that I could find styles to fit my low volume feet. I had my fair share of closed, square-toed footwear, which I could take or leave. I loved the look of toe mules, but they were difficult to walk in. By far the biggest disaster was the chunky platform sneaker. They were extremely heavy and uncomfortable. I used to cover my feet in plasters before I wore them, and was hobbling in less than half an hour anyway. Yet I persevered for the sake of fashion. I’m glad those days are over. 

I’m not into chunky footwear these days, although I will always have a soft spot for Dr. Martens. I like the look of the less chunky slides and mesh insert sandals, but since I prefer to cover my toes, I don’t think they will work this time round.

Over to you. Does this ‘90s inspired footwear bring back good or bad memories, and would you wear any of the styles again?

Make black look and feel more like Spring by combining it with shades of white and splashes of colour. Nothing feels quite as Spring-like as a happy floral in a cotton-rich or silky fabrication. Here are some of the items my clients have bought to refresh their looks. 

• Komarov Asymmetrical Tiered Chiffon Skirt: An asymmetrical drapey and feminine skirt that's fun paired with a tougher jacket. Dress it up or down, and read the rave reviews.
• Vince Knit Scuba Sweatshirt: The jacket looks a LOT better in person. It's the best knitted moto I've seen, and brilliant on a curvy figure. The two-piece collar is unique and the shorter back is flattering. Substantial fabric creates a more structured integrity. Looks as good zipped up. Tailored and chic.
• Ted Baker London Textured Peplum Jacket: The side view of this jacket is particularly stunning because of the high-low peplum. Great in motion. Super crisp and crease-resistant. Works as well unzipped, and is beautifully structured. Dressy, dramatic and well made. Fun floral lining. Excellent on a curvy body type. A piece with a high longevity factor.
• Ted Baker London 'Dumia' Floral Print Sweater: A cotton-rich floral pullover in jewel tones. Nice with black bottoms.
• Two by Vince Camuto 'Modern Splatter' High/Low Tunic (Plus Size): A drapey tunic with an interesting cut. Nice swoosh in motion. Looks best over a column of white or columm of black. Also available in regular sizes.
• Two by Vince Camuto Splatter Print Skinny Jeans (Rich Black): Fun paint splattered jeans with a higher rise. A tailored fit with a good amount of length. Looks great with white slipper flats. Might need to size down a size.
• Ted Baker London 'Priddyy Cascading Flora' Top: A knitted top with a pretty and flattering diagonal flutter sleeve. The spacing and ombré effect of the pattern is unique. Soft, fluid and does not cling. Fun matched with lemon and bright pink jeans.
• Trouvé Trouvé Contrast Underlay Sweater: A high-low two-for-one in a genius cut. The tapered shape of the sweater portion against the high contrast white woven fabric creates a slimming effect on the oversized piece. The neck is high and tight so consider yourself warned. Also available in grey.
• Two by Vince Camuto Splatter Print Slub Linen Jersey Tee: A fun paint splattered linen tee that's best partially tucked. Wear it with the matching jeans.
• Vince Camuto Floral Print Scuba Sheath Dress: The fabric of this sheath is thick which creates extra structure. Good length too. Excellent on an hourglass frame.
• Ted Baker London 'Jaday' Loafer (Women): A floral slipper flat can put a spring in your step. Quite muted in person and might run a little small. Not all that soft, but good for non-fussy feet.
• Halogen Floral Print Cardigan (Regular & Petite): This floral cardigan looks best buttoned through and worn like a pullover over a skirt. Super soft and does not cling.
• Tildon 'Emilia' Foldover Clutch: A vegan clutch with a good amount of room and fun fold-over detail. I liked the white best, but the cobalt is great too.
• Ted Baker London 'Tercera Blossom' Print Sweater: A silky sweatshirt in a photographic floral pattern. Feminine and sporty. Might run a little small.
• Birkenstock 'Arizona' Floral Print Sandal (Women): An acquired taste but a happy floral for the Birkie lover. Enough said.

One of my clients fell in love with the black and white paint splattered jeans when combined with the modern splattered tunic in black, or with the cream splattered linen tee. They both make for very fashionable, matchy-matchy and playful combinations.

I fell in love with the Trouvé contrast underlay sweater in black and white. I wore it last weekend with light blue satin skinnies, white slipper flats, citron trench coat and turquoise Furla bag. I like the two-for-one combination because it’s comfortable and easy to throw on and go.

Go the collection page to see the items alongside my descriptions. And remember that if you are a member you can also create collections and post them to the forum.

Generally speaking, straight legs are roomier on the lower leg than skinnies, but generally not as wide as bootcuts. More specifically, retailers call the cut a “straight leg” cut if some portion of the seam is cut in a straight line. The fit then differs depending on where on the leg the straight part of the seam begins.

A straight seam from knee to ankle on a tailored pair of jeans or trousers results in a tighter looking silhouette, not all that different from a pair of skinnies like the examples below. This style of straight leg can be “your skinny” when you have wider calves. 

A straight seam from thigh to ankle creates a wider silhouette, resulting in a less tapered effect on the lower part of the leg and on the hems, and a roomier fit on the thigh. My Maddie pants from J.Crew are a slightly slimmer example of this type of straight leg silhouette. 

Sometimes, the seam is cut straight all the way from the top of the thigh, which makes the straight legs look like bootcuts because the hems are quite wide.

When I talk about straight leg trousers or jeans without being more specific, I’m generally referring to the first two slimmer renditions which are more tapered on the lower part of the leg. These styles of straight leg are easier to combine in outfits and generally look more flattering on most body types.

The third (widest) rendition of the straight leg is harder to wear because it can look frumpy. A proper bootcut silhouette that narrows at the knee and flares at the hem tends to create a more flattering effect, especially on a curvier figure.

Slimmer straight legs, like the first two rows of examples above, look great with flats and heels up to an inch and a half, which is probably why I like them so much (those are my favourite heel heights for everyday comfort). Slimmer straight legs are a little tricky to hem for higher heels because the hems aren’t wide enough to skim the surface of the ground like bootcuts and dramatic flares, nor are they sufficiently tapered to grab your ankles like scrunched skinnies. In this case, I’ve found that a small break line is best, and allows the back of the hem to rest on the top of the heel portion of the shoe. Wide straight legs worn with high heels — like the example above from Ann Klein — can be hemmed like bootcuts. Personally, I think the example is a few inches short because I prefer my regular length wide hemmed jeans and trousers extra long. 

Finally, slimmer straight legs can be rolled at the hems to create a boyfriend jeans effect, in which case you can wear them with any heel height. They can also be cropped a good few inches above the ankle bone and worn with ankle booties that are higher in the shaft.

These pieces are suitable for a business casual office, but they look just as fab dressed down with a pair of jeans or a denim jacket. Be sure to look at all the colour options. 

• Calvin Klein Zip-Front Collarless Jacket: A well-made, crisp and structured peplum-lite jacket. Fully lined and excellent on a curvy body with a larger bust. Good on an apple shape too. The colour is richer and deeper in person. The zipper detailing looks fresh and modern. Also available in petite and plus sizes.
• Calvin Klein Petite Printed Drape-Neck Top: A simple sleeveless knit cowl that looks great under an open jacket. Tailored and soft. Easy to launder and crease-resistant. Available in different patterns.
• Vince Camuto Skinny Side-Zip Pants: A versatile pair of side zipper cigarette pants that work quite well on an hourglass body type. The waistband is easy to alter if it gapes at the back. High rise and comfortable. Excellent with flats.
• Halogen 'Olson' Pointy Toe Studded Leather T-Strap Flats (Women): Super comfy Rockstud-esque T-strap flats in an assortment of Spring colours. Cushioning, soft and quite supportive despite the very flat heel. It worked well for my low volume foot. Probably not the best style for higher volume feet.
• Alfani Python-Print Blouson Top: This drape-front blouse is unique because of the spaced placement of the pattern and the attached patterned camisole. No need to worry about flashing or fashion tape. Great with bootcuts and straight legs. Size down.
• Calvin Klein Houndstooth Ankle Pants: Ignore the description because these are full-length bootcuts, and not ankle pants. A light grey baby houndstooth pair of trousers is great for Spring and Summer office wear. These work well on a curvy body, and there is ample length for tall gals. Nice, neat higher rise. Might need to size down a size.

It’s great to see short tailored jackets in stores alongside the boxy and oversized styles. That way there is ample variety, especially when some of the options are in non-neutrals.