How to Wear Culottes with Flats

When models wear culottes they are often styled with heels, but you can absolutely wear them with flats. Of course, your leg line won’t look quite as long because heels add height. But with a little attention to detail, creating flattering proportions is simple. It’s often a case of wearing culottes a little shortershowcasing the waistband of the culottes to visually lengthen the leg line from the thighs up, and creating a column of colour

Here are some examples of these three techniques. 

Shorter Culottes

3.1 PHILLIP LIM Ponte CulottesMIH JEANS Soleri Cropped Printed Silk-georgette Culottes

In these examples the models are wearing flat oxfords and slides with shorter culottes. Although the first outfit with the black culottes is an edgier combination and an acquired taste, it does work to my eye. The second outfit is a little easier to wear. Both pairs of shoes create a low contrast against the skin tones of the models, thereby lengthening the leg line. The untucked cropped tops showcase more of the culottes, thereby lengthening the leg line from the thighs up. The over-the-knee length of the culottes breaks the outfit into thirds, creating a proportional effect.

Showcasing the Waistband

SALONI Lorna Embellished Crepe CulottesETRO Printed Silk Crepe de Chine Culottes

The next two examples show culottes with flat ankle strap pumps and gladiators. The tops have been tucked into the culottes, which lengthens the leg line from the hips upward. The pointy toe of the flats and low contrast of the footwear colours further offsets the stump factor of slightly longer culottes.

Column of Colour

Zara Cropped TrousersBabaton Lazarus Culottes

These two outfits create a column of colour with black culottes, which has a lengthening effect. No need to showcase the waistband of the culottes because it makes no difference here. The outfit on the left adds a pair of self colour black Birkenstocks to a longer pair of culottes. The self colour high-vamped flat is key to pairing with the longer length culottes because it visually connects the hem of the culottes with the footwear, thereby creating a continuous line. The dark hair of the model adds further cohesion to the outfit. 

The outfit on the right creates a column of colour with a shorter pair of culottes. The low contrast, flat white sneakers work quite well because of the lengthening effect of the column of colour and the slightly shorter length of the culottes.

Zara Culottes

In this final outfit the welted top is covering the waistband, thereby shortening the leg line and lengthening the torso. The opposite of what is happening in the examples before it. I included this outfit because it illustrates that wearing a regular length fitted or welted top over culottes can work when you’re short-waisted and long in the leg. Wear the culottes a little shorter to lengthen the leg from the lower leg up, and add low-contrast flat footwear. If, however, you have a naturally long leg line, feel free to add high-contrast flats instead.

Please feel free to ask questions in the comments section if anything isn’t clear.

Nordstrom Roundup: Dresses

Here’s an assortment of both casual and dressy frocks, some of which were recently winners on my clients. It’s great to see more sleeved dresses in stores. Some of the styles are available in petite and plus, so do check for those sizes too. 

Visit the collection page to see the items alongside my descriptions.

Style Shift: When Intuition is the Enemy of Change

The current leg of my style journey involves some quite significant changes. As I mentioned earlier this year, I want to amp up the feminine integrity of my outfits with tailoring, visible softness, lighter colours and pretty items. The obvious route to femininity would be to wear more skirts, dresses, and heels, and to grow my hair. But that’s not what I have in mind. In fact I want to wear trousers, white jeans and flats more than ever this year. And although my hair is morphing into another style, it will still be blonde and short.

Instead, I’m focusing on changing the silhouettes of my tops and bottoms. But even with this focus, I’m discovering that the changes are taking more discipline than I thought they would. I constantly have to resist the urge to add items that would have been a no-brainer on the previous leg of my style journey.

When I walk into a store, I’m immediately drawn to modern classic button-down shirts and simple crew neck pullovers in luxurious fabrications. My intuition tells me to try them on because they work with my body type and appeal to my style sensibilities. Especially crisp tomboy button-downs. I pop the collar, scrunch the sleeves, and it’s a slam dunk. Yet, I must walk away.

It took me a while to find the tops that I bought on our recent trip to Hong Kong because I kept getting sidetracked by my old favourites. But after a little soul searching and a lot of experimentation, I found four warm weather tops that are very different from my norm, but that feel completely right. The light grey round-shouldered pullover that you saw last month, an ink and black wool pullover with a front chiffon inset, an off-white pussy bow blouse, and a chunky open-weave ink blue turtleneck

Back in Seattle, after more experimentation, I was able to add a few more tops to my Spring and Summer capsule. Each one is definitely a step in a new direction, but also has design details that are completely within my comfort zone. First the Trouvé Contrast Underlay Sweater, which is different because of its attached underlay shirting detail, but not out of character because of its crew neck and graphic integrity. Second was Madewell’s Shirred Dot Print Shirt, which is soft and romantic, but still fairly crisp because of its clean lines and geometric polka dot pattern. And third was the white eyelet empire blouse from Anthropologie, which seems a little boho, yet is also beautifully crisp and has the elements of a strict button-down shirt. 

The silhouettes of these tops don’t work well with boyfriend jeans, so I find that I’m reverting to tailored skinnies, straight legs, and flares. I’ve already added the first two pairs of tapered bottoms to my wardrobe, and am in the middle of finalizing a pair of white flared jeans. After wearing boyfriend jeans almost exclusively for three years, I was happy to change things up.  

It takes discipline, patience and a good chunk of your budget to bring about a more significant style change. It would have been easier for me to give in to buying more fabulous button-down shirts, but easier is not always better. You need to question the intuition that is working to keep you in your comfort zone, but not compromise your fundamental style sensibilities. It is a tricky balance, and it took me quite a lot of time and effort to get the shift underway. I’m glad I persevered because things are coming together and, so far, I’m happy with the results. Change feels good.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Fab Finds: Playful Casual Tops

These casual tops were winners on my clients last week. Some look fab with skinnies and leggings, while others look equally good with shorts, flares and skirts. Many are available in an assortment of colours, so if the colour I chose is not to your liking, be sure to take a look at the others. 

  • Lola Cocoon Tunic: A funky waist-surrendering tunic that's great over cropped skinnies or leggings. Fab on broad shoulders and a larger bust. Can also be worn as a short dress.
  • COS mina Mesh Tee: Jewel-toned, easy to launder, crease-resistant, and quite romantic. Does not cling.
  • Cold Shoulder Slub Tee: Cold shoulder swing top fabness. Playful, covered and alluring. The white is not see-through.
  • Loft Pleat Back Softened Shirt: An easy boxy cut woven shirt with a grown-on sleeve and mandarin collar. Fun semi-tucked into denim bottoms or worn loose over fitted bottoms. Retro Futurism.
  • Club Monaco Rachelle Silk-Tiered Sweater: A Spring pullover with a romantic woven back ruffle. Sleek top torso and sleeve fit. Flouncy on the hem and back. Flirty Strictness.
  • Zara Cropped Embroidered Laser-cut Top: An eyelet crop top that works well with a flared skirt. Very breezy. Fine with a nude-for-you bra and no camisole.

Visit the collection page to see the items alongside my descriptions.

Making Sense of Culottes

Culottes have been a fringe trend for four years, and are finally getting mainstream traction. They are appealing because they combine the visual read of a skirt with the practicality of trousers. There are lots of styles in stores at the moment, so if you’re interested in adding the silhouette to your wardrobe, it’s a question of finding the ones that work best for you. 

Shape, fabrication, design detail, length and colour all have a significant impact on how culottes fit, look and wear. Here’s a breakdown with examples to help you make sense of all the options.

1. Wide or Narrow Silhouettes

Here the first two styles flare out a lot more at the hems than the third and fourth styles. The flared silhouettes are dramatic, feminine and authentic. They tend to create a less streamlined effect and can be a lot of culotte to commit to, especially when the fabric is stiff and the side seams flare out without collapsing back onto the body. 

The tailored and wide silhouettes look extremely good on hourglass and pear shaped body types, much in the same way fit-and-flared skirts do. The slimmer silhouette tends to work well on a straighter body type, but there are no rules here. With attention to detail and the correct fit, you can wear the culotte shape you want.

2. Mini, Knee or Midi Length 

Culottes come in a variety of lengths. The ultra short versions are like shorts. But most culotte styles fall at the knee, just over the knee, or go as far down as the mid and lower calf. Knee-lengths and lengths that just cover the knee tend to be the most flattering and the easiest to wear because the lengths cut your body into thirds. Longer lengths are more theatrical and trickier to style unless you are tall. They often need heels to create flattering proportions, although combining a pointy toe flat and tucked top with midi length culottes does wonders to lengthen the leg line. Creating a column of colour with longer culottes is also effective.

3. Stiff or Soft Fabrications 

Fabrication is as important as fit. Of course, the fabrication will determine how dressy or casual the culottes are. But more importantly, if you’re after drape, soft and silky fabrications are the way to go (like the styles three and four above). It’s much more forgiving to wear voluminous culottes with a dramatic flare when the fabric is soft because the volume collapses back onto the body and swooshes from side to side as you stride creating a more streamlined effect. Culottes in stiff fabrications like the faux leather and poly blend in the first and second examples are less forgiving and a whole lot more culotte.  

4. Simple or Complex Detailing 

Culottes can be cut clean and simple with no bells or whistles like the first two styles above. Flat front, regular waistband and fly front closure, or pull-on elasticated styles. Or the silhouettes can be intricately pleated from the waist or hip like the third and fourth styles. Extra pleats and gathers make the style more voluminous, playful, girly and flirty, but can make you feel wider than you are. Lack of detail creates a straighter and somehow more masculine and minimal vibe.

5. Solid or Patterned 

Culottes are available in both solids and patterns, and in all sorts of colours. Patterned versions tend to be the more unexpected and bolder choice, whereas solids are more subtle and easier to style (especially in a dark neutral).  

The wide variety of culottes means that there is a style to suit everyone. If you’re after something very dramatic, you might choose a wide flared midi length in a bold pattern made of stiff fabric with pleat detailing. If you’re after the other extreme — “culottes-lite” — choose a knee-length, narrow silhouette in a simple cut, soft fabrication, and solid dark neutral. And then there are all the options between these two extremes. 

I’ll be covering how to pair culottes with tops and footwear later this month so stay tuned. Are you wearing culottes? If so, which silhouettes tickle your fancy?