The Big Closet Edit

Summer is a great time to do a big closet edit because it’s just before the mad back to school rush. Later in the year schedules will start to fill up as we move closer to the holidays. I’ve written many posts on wardrobe planning and of them it’s “The Six Piles of Closet Editing” that gets to the crux of the matter. I wrote that post three years ago, but it’s still EXACTLY the same procedure I follow when working with clients today so it bears repeating.

A few points upfront:

  • Try to edit your closet in one session because keeping the momentum allows you to judge your closet contents as a whole. It can take up to ten hours to help my clients edit their closets, but four hours is a more realistic time. If you edit your closet very regularly, you’ll be done in an hour. If editing in one go is not an option – tackle one item category or closet area at a time. 
  • Edit ALL areas with wardrobe items. Don’t forget the stuff under the bed, in the spare room closet, in the coat closet, in all those drawers, in the garage, or in the basement. 
  • Re-fit all items before deciding their fate. Your opinion about how an item looks and feels has to be CURRENT. Do not base your opinion on a past memory. This is especially important if you have recently lost and gained weight, or are post pregnancy.  
  • Don’t worry too much about reviewing your closet during the editing process if you’re short on time. Focus on getting the contents down to the right items and revisit your wardrobe for an in-depth review another time. 
  • It’s unrealistic to think that we can create a perfect wardrobe over a set timeframe. It takes time, resources, patience, dedication and an interest in our current fashion era to create a fabulous wardrobe. But we can strive to achieve our wardrobe goals over a longer period of time. Like our style that is on a never-ending journey, our wardrobes are a permanent work in progress. 

Once you’ve carved out some time to edit the contents of your wardrobe, keep the process structured by creating six piles. You might not need to create all six piles, but the options are there just in case. 

Keep

These are the items that spark joy when you wear them. You love the way they look, feel and fit. They’re in good condition, in line with your current style aspirations and make you feel fabulous. It’s that simple. 

IMPORTANT:  Items that are orphaned for a while CAN fit into the keep category. You may have loved wearing certain pieces in the past, but they fell by the wayside when newer items took their place. Orphans do come out of hibernation and back into rotation. So if you still love a piece dearly — keep it. 

Temporary Keep

These are the items that aren’t perfect but you need to hold on to them until they can be replaced. Or they don’t currently fit because of weight loss or gain. Although I firmly believe in dressing the body you’re in today, sometimes it’s worth keeping ill-fitting items if your weight fluctuates. This is especially true if the items were pricey and still in good condition. Either way, don’t let the items that currently don’t fit depress you either. Get them out of your wardrobe and stored somewhere else.

Alteration

It’s amazing how a simple nip, tuck, hack, snap, button adjustment or hem lengthen can transform the fit of an item so that it’s fabulous. Shoes that need repairing and accessories that need to be fixed go into this pile too. 

Holding Zone

This is an interesting pile because it can be large, small or non-existent. These are the items that you’re not sure about, so instead of passing them on right away, you’ll keep them temporarily in an area that is out of sight. Give yourself a chance to miss them for about a year or so, and if you haven’t reached for them at all, pass them on right away.

Items that currently don’t fit because of weight gain or loss can also be held in the holding zone. You’ll get rid of them sooner if you place them in this pile though. Place them in the Temporary Keep pile if the intention is to keep them for longer.

Sentimental

These items are no longer wearable, but you keep them because they are memorable in some way. They tell a story, remind you of a loved one, celebrate an important past occasion or time in your life, or are a token of a great achievement like running a marathon. 

Keep these items in your closet if you have the space because they make you smile when you see them. Or you can box them up so that they are out of the way. Or you can take photos of the pieces and pass on the items themselves.  

Pass On

These are the items that no longer work, or have never worked for your style. Items that are damaged, worn, dated or ruined go into this pile. Items that are ill-fitting, unflattering in some way, overly fussy, impractical, uncomfortable, or are no longer in line with your style goals go into this pile. Get to the heart about WHY the item does not make you feel fabulous and try not to make the same mistake again. 

IMPORTANT: Be careful not to pass on orphans because they’re lacking the support act that completes the outfit. If the item sparks joy, give it a chance by styling it correctly first. There is time to pass it to Goodwill, the Salvation Army and non-profit organizations like Dress For Success later. Or consign the items, sell them on eBay, give them to family and friends, or have a clothing swap party. 

The closet edit process is easier to describe than to execute. I fully understand that it can be an overwhelming and emotional process. If you find yourself losing momentum, there are ways to energize and feel supported during the closet editing process. As with most things, practice makes perfect. The more regularly you edit your closet, the less time-consuming and easier the subsequent edits become. Monthly closet edits are a beautiful thing.

Weekly Roundup: Camisoles

Here’s a selection of camisoles, many of which have worked well on my clients. None of the styles have a shelf bra, so the idea is that you wear your bra underneath them. Most of the styles are cotton-rich, but fits and lengths do differ. There are plenty of colour options so take your pick. 

Personally, I don’t want my camisole to hang too long because I like to tuck it into my bottoms, which keeps it smooth and secure. I also like it to feel snug against my body and breathable, so cotton-rich is best. I wear a camisole 99% of the time — even in hot weather — because I find the feeling of soft snug cotton against my skin very comforting. 

Visit the collection page to see the items alongside my descriptions.

The Lifespans of Different Wardrobe Items

I seem to turn over a significant portion of my wardrobe every five years. Not my whole wardrobe, but somewhere around half of it. I can think of three factors that drive this rate of turnover. 

  1. Many clothing items don’t last much past five years these days.
  2. I enjoy refreshing my style with trendy pieces each season. 
  3. I like to keep my wardrobe a certain size which means that items need to be passed on before I can add new pieces. The one-in-one-out wardrobe principle works well for me. 

The biggest factor, however, seemed to be the category of the item.

Tops have a shorter lifespan than my other clothing items. It’s hard to find knitwear that doesn’t pill after a season or two. White and light woven shirts and blouses tend to discolour after a couple of years. Darker woven shirts and blouses tend to last a little longer, but few make it to the five year mark when you wear them regularly. T-shirt, cotton-rich jersey, and sweatshirt type knitted items tend to last a year or two at best. Items made of polyester on the other hand, can last longer than five years. 

Outerwear, like coats and jackets, frequently make it past the five year mark. My trench coats are eight years and five years old respectively, and still going strong. I’m sure that my tweed equestrian Smythe jackets will make it well past the ten year mark. And my denim jackets seem indestructible. I’ve had one of them for thirteen years, and it still looks new.

Some bottoms, like faded blue and dark jeans, can make it past the five year mark. But white jeans seldom do because of discolouration and the occasional stain. My wool and silk trousers sometimes make it to five years, but start to show a lot of wear. My dresses and skirts tend to make it past the five year mark because I don’t wear them that frequently and because they are, for the most part, quite classic. So the styles don’t date too quickly.

Underwear, loungewear and socks seldom make it past two years. My footwear usually lasts between two and five years, but I’m also wearing footwear that is older than that. The lifespan of my handbags runs the gamut. I will have my Valentino and Chanel handbags for life. My other designer bags last at least five years. But my fast fashion Zara bags and less expensive bags only have a year or two in them before quality issues start to show themselves, or the style is too out of date. 

Given the wide range of lifespans, I don’t think the average tells us a lot. But generally speaking I think it’s good going when you’ve worn a wardrobe item regularly for five years. If it hasn’t dated or worn out by then, you might be ready to pass it on to its new home just because you’re ready for a change.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Dresses From COS Are Fab Finds

COS is a store owned by Swedish fast fashion giant H&M. But COS pieces are not fast fashion at all. They are better-end, architectural, drapey, minimal, and fashion forward. You won’t find all that many conventionally flattering items in the store, but there are countless pieces that are “just flattering enough”, creating a hip, somewhat arty, and modern outfit integrity. Most of the pieces are in solid colours and the fabrics are luxurious, feeling glorious to the touch. 

There aren’t many COS stores in the United States, but ordering online is an option. Their sizes run big, so you might be sized out if you wear a US size 0. Their larger sizes can fit a US size 14 and 16, especially when the silhouettes are roomy. 

I visited COS stores in Hong Kong, Amsterdam and London this year and enjoyed browsing and fitting their merchandise. I was particularly impressed with their dresses because most of them were woven, casual and the silhouettes a little different from other retailers. Plus, many of the styles had sleeves and sufficient hem length. I was able to make the COS cotton shirt dress in tomato red work because of its comparatively narrower cut. I’ve already worn it many times with white flats and white upscale backpack. So check out COS the next time you’re after a casual woven dress.

COS
Graduated jersey dress
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4
COS
Asymmetric jersey dress
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3
COS
Loose-fit tunic dress
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2
COS
High-neck draped dress
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3
COS
Flared panel dress
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1
COS
V-neck silk shirt dress
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1
COS
Circle-cut dress
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1
COS
Oversized jersey dress
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3
COS
Flared poplin dress
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3
COS
Dress with pleated back
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4
COS
Silk layer dress
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1
COS
Silk skirt cotton dress
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3
COS
Silk and cotton dress
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3
COS
Wide-neck cotton dress
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2
COS
Sheer-hem dress
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3
COS
Denim-look shirt dress
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5
COS
Drawstring shirt dress
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4
COS
Cotton shirt dress
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Top Pick
10

Your Skirt & Dress Style

All my clients wear skirts and dresses, but some more than others. I find it varies according to their style preferences, their lifestyle, the occasion and the weather. On the one end of the continuum there are my clients who reserve skirt and dresses for fancy occasions. Skirts and dresses do not feature in their everyday style. These clients tend to lead a very casual stay-at-home or work-from-home lifestyle. The practical comfort of shorts, jeans and trousers trumps all.

Somewhere in the middle of the continuum are my clients who wear dresses and skirts as regularly as trousers and jeans. I find this is often true for my clients who work in a business casual or formal environment. Mixing things up prevents them from getting bored with their outfits. On the other end of the continuum, a handful of my clients prefer to wear skirts and dresses almost exclusively both in dressy and casual settings. These clients tend to have very hourglass-y or pear shaped body types and simply prefer the look of their curvy figures in skirts and dresses, which are also easier to fit than trousers and jeans.  

A common theme among all Seattle clients is that skirt and dress wearing frequency increases in warm and hot weather. Our Falls and Winters (and often Springs too) can be wet and cold, which makes us want to insulate our legs with jeans, trousers, warm socks and booties. Some clients though, don’t mind wearing pantyhose and tights with their skirts and dresses, and finish off the look with pumps, loafers, oxfords, booties or tall boots. Clients who drive to and from a heated office in a heated car tend to be fine with wearing skirts and dresses with hose and pumps in cold weather. Those who have to venture out into the elements tend to abandon skirts and dresses in Winter. 

My skirt and dress wearing frequency is driven by the occasion and the weather. I like to wear skirts and dresses to fancy occasions (although my new jumpsuit gives an occasion dress a lot of competition). I prefer not to layer under and over dresses in order to keep the lines of the outfit clean and simple. I like to wear a camisole underneath, and if I do need to wear a topper, stick to a fitted and cropped denim jacket or knee-length coat for over the top.

Occasionally I will wear cropped black leggings under a woven dress for warmth. Sheer and dressy hosiery is fine for holiday bashes in Winter with WOVEN dresses because the static cling with knitted dresses is impossible. I do not like to wear thick tights, nor do I like to wear tall boots or booties with skirts and dresses. I prefer ankle strap pumps or pumps, which again, limits me to wearing them in warm and hot weather.

Over to you. Do you wear skirts and dresses throughout the year, or do you prefer to wear them seasonally? Do you wear skirts and dresses as everyday style, or do do you reserve them for fancy occasions?