Universal Fit Challenges

Over the last five years or so I have seen certain fit challenges come up repeatedly as I dress clients across all sizes, heights and body types, and shop across many different retailers. Note that I am not talking about incorrect fit, or garment designs that aren’t suited to a particular body shape. I’m talking about challenges that are more universal. For example:

  • Dresses that are intended for an office environment, but are too short.
  • Sleeves that are cut too narrow on jackets and coats, especially when they’re lined and sans stretch. Sometimes the armholes are cut too short too. 
  • Armholes that are cut too low and wide on sleeveless tops thereby showcasing all sorts of bra exposure. 
  • V-necklines that are too low. 
  • Slouchy tops that are overly big everywhere. When size Medium clients regularly fit into Extra Small tops, you know that there is something wrong with the design. 
  • Toe boxes that run too narrow on dressy footwear. 
  • Premium denim that runs awfully small (although this one seems to be improving).
  • Widths of jeans and trousers that are too narrow on the calves.
  • Plus-sized garments that are too long in the sleeves, torso, rise and overall length. 
  • Pocket linings that grin through the fronts of trousers that ruin the look of the garment.
  • Small sizes like XS and a US0 that run larger than they used to. Unless there is the option to size down to an XXS or US00, these sizes are sized out of a particular brand. 

Have you noticed similar fit challenges over the last few years as you shop and refresh your wardrobes?

New Trends in Outfit Proportions

There are watershed changes happening in fashion, so we’ll see lots of newness over the next five to ten years. I’m welcoming the change because it’s been years since silhouettes looked fresh. Skinnies and body-con bottoms have reigned supreme for about a decade, and are finally a classic. Pairing them with roomy tops that surrender the waist is equally classic. The combination of “long and roomy on top paired with sleek at the bottom” is no longer on trend. It’s moved over to give way to new silhouettes.

  • Wider silhouettes on the bottom
  • Shorter silhouettes on top (both fluid and tailored)
  • Cropped lengths both on the top and bottom
  • Waist definition

The outfits below illustrate the newer and trendier outfit proportions. For jeans and trousers, you’re looking at higher rises that showcase the waist, and more fabric on the thighs and/or lower leg. Silhouettes can be baggy and very wide throughout the leg, or simply more tailored. Tops are shorter to lengthen the leg line from the thighs upward, and again, to define the waist. Fashion seems to be moving back to celebrating the waist-defining hourglass and pear shape and traditionally flattering proportions.

ELIZABETH AND JAMES Fritz Cropped Checked Crepe Tapered PantsSTELLA MCCARTNEY Eden Cropped Wool-crepe Flared PantsALTUZARRA Serge Stretch-crepe Flared PantsGUCCI Pleated Silk and Wool-blend Skirt

Don’t panic if you prefer to surrender your waist by wearing slouchy and long tops over skinny bottoms because retail will not give up on classic silhouettes. There will simply be less of those outfit proportions represented at retail over the next decade as retail focuses on the new. 

You might rebel against the trendier proportions at first, but grow to like them over time. It’s amazing how well we adapt to new things after an adjustment period. But most importantly, you ALWAYS have the choice to dress in an updated classic or trendier way because both fashion personas are equally stylish.

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Ensemble: Casual Layers & Bling

Example

Here’s a look that I like because of the pile of pearls. Take them away, and the outfit isn’t quite as appealing — at least, not to my dressy and pearl-loving self. I love the juxtaposition of the casual “thrown together” layers, with the bling. Go Team Glam at any time of the day. If pearls aren’t your thing, add bling that is more to your taste.

Here are the components of the outfit formula. Use any colour palette. I stuck to neutrals, but feel free to throw in some colour. Note that you can mix many neutrals in one outfit to create a harmonious look. 

Tight Bottoms: Choose a pair of form-fitting jeggings, leggings, Ponte pants or skinnies in a dark neutral. Make sure you can tuck the bottoms into boots. 

Tee: Choose a striped T-shirt in any colour combination. 

Shirt: Choose a denim or plaid shirt and layer it over the striped tee keeping the front unbuttoned like a jacket. 

Tall Boots: Choose a pair of casual knee-high or mid-calf boots, and wear them over the jeans. Again, feel free to remix an assortment of neutrals in one outfit. No need to make them match. 

Topper: Add a topper like a casual parka, trench coat, or pea coat.

Bling: Add a pile of chunky pearls, or another form of bling around your neck. Feel free to add blingy arm candy too. 

Accessories: Finish off the look with a casual bag like a hobo. Add jewellery, eyewear, headgear and watch as desired.

Ensemble: Casual Layers & Bling

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Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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The Short Strap Crossbody Bag

I saw this trend on the catwalks last year, both in dressy and casual renditions. The straps of the bag are half the length of a regular crossbody bag so that the bag hangs just on the bust or under the bust. Wear the bag across your back instead of across your front, and the vibe is similar to the unisex body bag of the ‘90s. 

The short strapped crossbody bag is a fringe trend for good reason. First, you can’t wear a bag like this when you’re larger in the bust. It is best suited to a small bust and broad shoulder line. Second, it might be a strain on your shoulder, underarm and back. Third, you might not fancy the visual effect.

Example 1

I don’t wear crossbody bags because I generally find them uncomfortable on my neck and shoulder. I don’t like the way they knock into my hipbone. I have a mini crossbody bag that is very lightweight (and therefore more comfortable), but that’s it.

Example 2

That said, I like the look of a crossbody bag and admire it on others. As for the super short crossbody, I like it! If you have a small bust, the position of the bag can actually be quite comfortable. It’s secure, safe, works well over a coat, and won’t rub against your hipbone. It’s tricky retrieving items from your bag though, and perhaps the bag will start rubbing in other areas. The only way to find out would be to put a super short crossbody through its paces. 

Over to you. What do you think of this trend?

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Weekly Roundup: Neutrals

My clients like to wear neutrals throughout the year, so we’re always looking out for them, and refreshing their capsules accordingly. As we head further into the retail season, I’m pleased that there are neutrals beyond the typical grey and black that we normally see drowning the stores. There are lots of earthy tones, ink blues and shades of white too. 

These items were winners on my clients:

  • Free People 'Stella' Graphic Print Minidress: The chevron pattern on this dress is unique and so is the colour scheme. It runs small and short. It works as a tunic over straight crops too. Well suited to a small bust, long neck and defined waist. Not suited to a large bust and apple shape. It's also available in red, but the navy is nicer.
  • Free People 'Arctic Fox' Back Zip Swing Sweater: The pullover looks gorgeous on a petite with a short torso, large bust, and longish neck. Works well on an apple shape. All the colours are nice, and the back zipper detailing is fun. Too short for long torsos. Runs very big. Size down one to two sizes.
  • MOTHER High Rise Crop Bootcut Jeans (Not Guilty): Cropped straights with a sleek and flattering cut. Read the rave reviews.
  • CeCe Polka Dot Tie Neck Shirtdress: A fun dress on petites and regulars, or tunic on taller gals. Works surprisingly well on a larger bust. Good under a maxi cardigan. Runs a size big. Slinky fabric.
  • Jeffrey Campbell 'Phasma' Boot (Women): Great boots for narrow calves. Can work on a higher volume foot. Quite comfortable.
  • Jeffrey Campbell 'Carla' Pointy Toe Pump (Women): A fashion-forward pump that comes in three neutral colours. I like the white best, but the bronze is the most unique. Will not work on high volume feet. The leather is quite hard, so best for unfussy feet.
  • Cole Haan 'Elverton' Knee High Boot (Women): Impeccable quality and comes in chocolate brown. Well-suited to narrower calves. Very comfortable, and a true classic.
  • Hispanitas 'Leader' Wedge Boot (Women): An excellent tall boot for narrow calves and low to regular volume feet. Impeccable quality and extremely comfortable. Very lightweight. Will probably not work on petites as the shaft is too high.
  • FLY London 'Yex' Platform Wedge Bootie (Women): Post Apocalyptic Fabness. Wear the cuff up or down. Extremely comfortable, well made, and well suited to high volume feet. You can walk on the moon in these.
  • JSLIDES 'Aztec' Tassel Slip-On Sneaker (Women): Good chunky sneakers for wider feet. The tassel makes the look. Quite comfortable, although a little heavy. Lots of colours, and there's an animal print in stores.
  • Paul Green 'Jay' Wingtip Chelsea Boot (Women): A beautifully made quality ankle bootie with subtle wing tip or brogue detailing. Refined, a little Tomboy, tailored and sleek. Works VERY well on narrow ankles and long toes. Extremely comfortable and supportive. The colour of the taupe is accurate and it also comes in black. Might run half a size big. Much prettier in the taupe and they HAD TO follow we home.
  • Elodie Lightweight Twill Jacket: A casual lightweight topper for a warm Fall. Works on most body types. Works on petites too.
  • CeCe Tweed A-Line Coat with Bow: Modern Retro Fabness. Best suited to a curvy figure and runs big. Good on a short neck and short waist.
  • Charles Jourdan Charles Jourdan Ophelia Leopard-Print Leather Satchel Bag, Natural: Snow Leopard Fabness for Team Satchel. I like that the pattern is printed and not hairy. Wear it as a solid by pattern mixing it into your outfits for a maximal look. Roomier than it looks.
  • CeCe 'Refined Dandelion' Print Three Quarter Sleeve Swing Top: A fitted swing top for curvy gals. Great layered under jackets, and might run a size big.
  • Banana Republic Swallow Print Blouse: A fluid and whimsical bird print blouse to wear with skirts, jeans or trousers. Comes in apricot, and layers well under a jacket. Fits a variety of body types.
  • Banana Republic Houndstooth Pencil Skirt: A super soft baby houndstooth skirt with a comfy stretchy fit. It will mould to most body shapes because of the stretch, but does not look body-con unless you are extremely curvy. It's office appropriate. Weighty fabrication and nicely made.
  • KENDALL + KYLIE Logan: Comfy low heeled booties for low volume or regular feet. GREAT circular heel. You have to have a low instep to pull on the style (no zipper). Fab narrow fit on narrow ankles. Dramatic in a subtle way. Elegant on the foot.
  • J.Crew Double-cloth lady day coat with Thinsulate: Ladylike, streamlined, well made, and warm. Great length for dresses. An item with a high longevity factor. Might run narrow in the sleeves. Available in many colours. The walnut looks fresh.
  • Rebecca Taylor Denim Peplum Jacket: A peplum denim jacket for Team Short Neck and Defined Waist.
  • KENDALL + KYLIE Logan: AMAZING looking booties. I just added these to my bootie collection. Comfy, low heeled, and richly cream. Fab for low volume or regular feet. I added an insole to make the foot bed more cushioning and fill in the width. GREAT circular heel shape. Fab narrow fit on narrow ankles. The shaft does not dig into you as you stride. You have to have a low instep to pull on the style (no zipper). Dramatic in a subtle way. Very elegant and sleek on the foot. Quite graphic.
  • London Fog Gingham Print Single Breasted Trench Coat (Regular & Petite): An adorable lightweight trench coat that is water resistant, crease-resistant, and repels lint and pet hair. Runs a size big.
  • Steve Madden 'Kate' Loafer Pumps (Women): A chunky gold loafer for wider or higher volume feet. Not good on narrow heels. Moderately comfy. Not an all day shopping shoe. Trendy on the foot. Nice crisp shade of gold.

You can see the items alongside my descriptions on the collection page.