Your Personal Figure-Flattering Priorities

Style is art, not science. Opinions about it are subjective. What makes an outfit flattering is in the eye of the beholder. Also, there is no one way to be stylish, and an outfit has to feel right in order for you to wear it with joy and confidence. Body type dressing guidelines and traditionally flattering outfit proportions can be helpful as a starting point, but they are by no means essential. Not at all.

Instead, I suggest creating a PERSONAL set of figure-flattering priorities. These are guidelines about fit and outfit proportions that are unique to you. They empower you to dress the way you want to, instead of being boxed into a so-called look that is based on your body type and someone else’s benchmark of beauty. After all, you’re wearing the outfit, so how you perceive it and feel in it is most important.

When I work with my clients, we establish their personal figure-flattering priorities. I listen closely to what types of fits and proportions makes them feel great, and I apply that knowledge to their style. That way their outfit creation process is set up for success, and their style is authentic. When clients are unsure whether a look is flattering or unflattering, I offer my two cents. Often the look in question IS flattering, but they aren’t yet used to the new proportions.

I’ll start the ball rolling by sharing my own set of priorities. They have evolved over time and adapted to my changing needs. I am a stickler for perfect fit, and will go to a lot of effort to create it. I do not need to look my narrowest in an outfit. I will surrender my waist, and wear boxy and baggy items if I like the look. Creating height is also not a priority.

1. Fluid Fits

I do not like to wear clothing items that are too form-fitting and constricting. I’ll define my waist and wear tailored items, but there has to be ample fluidity in the outfit too. I’m energetic and active, and need to move in my outfits (with doggies in tow). So my tailored fits are on the fluid side. Functional flow is key.

2. Oversized Structure

When I wear oversized items, like big and breezy Summer shirts and shirt dresses, I do so with structure. I tuck or semi-tuck the shirts to create a bit of a waistline. I also scrunch the sleeves of the shirts and dresses to reveal forearm skin, because showcasing skin creates structure.

3. Knee-Covering Dress and Skirt Lengths

I do not like showing my knees in skirts and dresses anymore. To my eye the look on me is better when the lengths are midi, midaxi, or just covering the kneecap. There is nothing wrong with my knees, but just because you can wear something, doesn’t mean that you need to. I enjoy the elegance and fun factor of skirt and dress swoosh, so its knee-covering lengths for me.

4. Neck Shortening

I have a very long neck, and my short hair makes my neck look even longer. So I wear high necklines and shirt collars that visually shorten the length of my neck, and stay away from scooped necklines, boat necks, low necklines, and most V-necks. I will also effectively fill the gap of a slightly too wide neckline with a pearl necklace.

5. Strong Shoulder Line

I am small framed and have narrow shoulders, so I like to keep my shoulder line structured by wearing items that are tailored on the shoulders, and by wearing a neckline with ample coverage. I can wear dropped shoulder silhouettes as long as the style has a high neckline, or shirt collar.

6. Long Enough Leg Line

I don’t have a naturally long leg line, and do not feel the need to create one by wearing heeled footwear. But I don’t want to feel overly short in the leg either. So I strive to create a leg line that looks long enough to me. I create one without high heels by semi-tucking or tucking tops into high-rise bottoms that lengthen the leg line from the hips upwards. I wear untucked tops that aren’t too long so the torso is visually shortened. Or I wear long untucked tops with diagonal hemlines.

7. Tailored Boots

I have narrow ankles and calves, which makes most booties and taller boots gape at the opening. Think of a stem in a flower pot as a visual. I do not find this flattering on my body, so I’m extra fussy about how my boots fit. They need to be tailored, streamlined and neat around my ankles and calves. Very little or no gaping is key.

8. Pant Lengths

And last, pant lengths are my thing. I will nitpick about their lengths, and how the type of footwear worn with them and the silhouette of the pants itself is affected by creating just the right length. To my eye, half an inch shorter or longer can often make a visually important difference.

Over to you. Care to share your personal set of figure-flattering priorities?

Outfit Formula: Fall Pants Suit

This post was inspired by my own love for dressy pants suits. I bought a sand and white windowpane patterned Hugo Boss suit at this year’s Nordstrom Anniversary Sale, and I absolutely LOVE IT (I’ve modelled it in the forum.) It’s the suit I’ve been waiting for and it’s already one of my favourite wardrobe items. I wore it twice last week to different client appointments and felt like a million bucks. I might need to build a capsule of pants suits because they have become my thing, and I would like to make them signature to my style.

Here is the exact suit with the items I have been wearing with it so far. The pants are full length on me, and not cropped.

Personally, I find pants suits easy, comfortable, and versatile. I wear them fluidly tailored so that they are a cinch to move around in. The key is to not wear pants suits too fitted and constricting, so size up if you need to. I make sure the fabric is fairly crease-resistant, so things look polished all day. I don’t wear heels, so my footwear choices go the distance like flat loafers, boots and fashion sneakers. I dress a suit up or down, and wear it with a dressy crossbody bag.

Mango
Tropical Print Pants
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WIDE LEG PANTS
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TUXEDO CIGARETTE PANTS
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CIGARETTE PANTS
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ANKLE PANTS
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LINEN PAJAMA PANTS
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FLOWY PANTS
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HIGH-WAISTED CULOTTES
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CROPPED PRINTED PANTS
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MID-RISE PANTS
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FULL LENGTH PANTS
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Pleated Suit Pants
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CHINO PANTS
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Pants suits are having their fashion moment. They are a true Trendy Classic to my eye. I was delighted to see teens and young adults wear fluid pants suits with, knitted tops, sneakers, and totes or backpacks when I was in the Netherlands in June and July. They looked super cute, even commuting on their bikes. Practical, dressy, and getting on with life.

If you bat for Team Pants Suits, here is some creative inspiration for Autumn and Winter. All of them are a little different to the norm. I vote pants suits for a holiday outfit or dressy occasion option too.

1. Buttoned Up and Pattern Mixed

I LOVE this navy suit, and want it. The navy and tan check is delicious, but most of all, I adore the short blazer and how it complements the wide crops. It’s beautifully chic buttoned up, with plenty of fluidity for movement. The pattern-mixed snakeskin ballet flats are a refined addition, and pick up the tan check. A playfully pretty pants suit, and elegant too.

Buttoned Up and Pattern Mixed

2. Denim Delight

I LOVE this denim suit and want it too, although it’s not as soft as the other suits. That said, it has stretch and is probably more comfy than it looks. The classic tailored jacket is offset with roomy on-trend cuffed pants. The suit has cinnamon topstitching, so also, a little playful. The patterned turtleneck and snakeskin boots pick up the colour of the topstitching. I’d add knee-highs for warmth, wear flat boots, and leave the blazer unbuttoned.

Denim Delight

3. Loosely Suited

This suit is monochromatically black and grey, pinstriped and colour-blocked. If you are after a less structured suit, this is one way to go. The wide legs look really comfy. Click the photo to see the belted version, which allows for waist definition should you prefer it. The dressy flats are a polished and practical addition, and the black turtleneck is an easy warm layer. Feel free to layer with a top that has a neckline to your liking if turtlenecks aren’t your thing. I have the urge to throw in a bright red bag.

Loosely Suited

4. Menswear-Inspired

This is the most menswear-inspired pants suit. It’s turned into something a lot less strict through the shade of mustard, and with the additions of a graphic tee and athletic sneakers. The whites of the tee and sneakers are a pulled together match. The tee has been tucked, but you can wear it over the pants. Note again how fluid the fit of the suit is. That is what makes it a lot more comfortable and wearable. Add jewellery, watch and eyewear as desired. I LOVE pants suits!

Menswear Inspired

Link Love: Meaningful Jewellery & Tattoos

I found this article, in which four women share the meaning of their inherited jewellery, heart-warming

“As a jewelry designer, I draw inspiration from items handed down to me to create pieces that can become treasured heirlooms. Pieces which will hold the stories of those who wear them, to be passed down so they can live on. I wanted to hear more of these stories, so I asked four second-generation Canadians about the rings, necklaces, and earrings given to them and heard about the resilience, selflessness, and deep love embedded in them.”

I also enjoyed this blog post, in which 12 Cup of Jo readers share their meaningful tattoos. I really love what Emma did:

“I am madly in love with my life partner: my dog, Robin. She is my first soulmate and north star. When I adopted her in 2015, I wanted to commemorate the relationship. So, I took a picture of the geometric white patch on her chest, and the tattoo artist traced the outline. Everyone tries to guess what state it is!”

Fab Links from Our Members

Minaminu thought this was interesting: the founder of Boden, Johnnie Boden, predicts that formal office wear is out.

Vildy never considered wearing overalls before but this lengthy post chock-full of how-to-do-it examples has her rethinking. She says: “I actually like some of the examples, which I never expected to.”

Suntiger recommends this M Gets Dressed blog post about how to look older in casual clothes.

Stagiaire Fash says this article from 3 years ago about the increasing use of older models and the narrowness of that movement is still relevant.

Runcarla had fun browsing Phil Oh’s first street style shots (from NY Fashion Week) in 18 months. She’s loving all the craziness!

Nuancedream wanted to share this BBC article about how Afghan women are fighting back against the Taliban’s repressive dress code for women. She adds: “Right on! to these women who are proclaiming through their colorful attire that this is Afghan culture.”

Mary Beth directs us to this fun look at the Fall/Winter 2021-22 colour trends. She is loving the Coconut Cream, Root Beer, Mykonos Blue, After Midnight, and Pale Rosette. And she is intrigued by Illuminating.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Defining Neutrals for Your Personal Style

I talk about neutrals and non-neutrals all the time, and take it for granted that you know what I mean. But neutrals mean different things to different people, so I’m going to share my definitions. For me, neutrals fall into three categories: pure, fashion, and personal. 

Pure Neutrals

Black, white and all shades of grey are pure neutrals. These neutrals do not show up on the colour wheel because they are absent of colour. So in the strictest sense, black, white and grey are the only true neutrals.

Fashion Neutrals

In fashion, black, white and grey are considered neutral, but so are quiet colours like dark blues, shades of brown, shades of tan, taupe, mink and beige, shades of olive, and blue denim. In fact many earth tones are thought of as neutral because they are frequently found in nature. When I talk about neutrals in blog posts, I am referring to fashion neutrals, and not just pure neutrals.

Personal Neutrals

Because style is a very individual thing, I take the concept of neutrals a step further because there are colours and patterns that you might find extremely versatile and grounding to wear. Hence, they function like a neutral in your wardrobe and style. For example, bright red is “a neutral” for me because it works with everything. I wear it much the same way I would wear fashion neutrals like denim blue, white, and dark blue. I think similarly about pastels like blush pink and light blue. Others might view burgundy, eggplant, animal prints, and greyed colours like duck egg blue and sage as “neutral” for their style.

Hubs Greg is a purest when it comes to neutrals and thinks of navy and olive as colours. Neutrals to him mean black, white and grey and that’s it. Clearly, I’m not a neutrals purist, and take great liberties with the concept. How about you? How do you define neutrals?

Easy Neutrals for Fall

If you enjoy light neutrals, animal print, and a Modern Classic vibe, these outfits might appeal to you. Of course, you can change the palette to dark neutrals, or a more earthy mix if that’s your cup of tea. 

Combine a pair of on-trend jeans with a fluid pullover or long-sleeved shirt in a light neural. Semi-tuck the front of the pullover or shirt and add a belt in a shade of brown. You can tie the fronts of the shirt, if you like that vibe and leave off the belt. Finish off the look with animal print footwear, or solid light neutral or brown footwear. The bag can match the animal print footwear or repeat a solid neutral in the outfit. A light neutral trench coat tops things off.

Personally, I love light neutrals. I stick to solid shades of white, and very occasionally throw in a rich shade of toffee or a pretty shade of sand. My version of this look would use the items from my wardrobe below. The pullover looks white, but it’s cream in person and matches the cream complement of loafers and bag perfectly. I’d choose dark denim wide crops, leave off the belt, but semi-tuck the pullover anyway. Instead of a trench coat, I’d layer an old toffee cape coat over the top. My red specs add a bit of colour.

Does this vibe appeal to you too?