How to Fit Classic Dress Pants

Business casual and business formal dress pants are often a hard wardrobe item to fit, especially if the hips, waist and thigh area are your fussy bits. I wish I could prevent the situation where you have to try on many, many pairs of dress pants before you find ones that work (or have the potential to be altered to work). But alas, much like jeans, that’s the nature of the beast.

If you’re looking for a pair of classically tailored, no-nonsense dress pants, you’ll find these fit tips useful. Hopefully they will help you to eliminate some options before even trying them on.

Style Considerations

First, consider these factors when it comes to the design:

  • Look for good drapy fabric: Dress pants love weighty substantial fabrications which allow them to fall straight down to the foot. Think wool-rayon-polyester and cotton-rayon-polyester blends with a hint of stretch for extra comfort. Crease lines are optional.
  • Beware of side entry pockets: This doesn’t mean that you should ignore dress pants with side entry pockets because at times they can work. But styles without often look better. No pocket lining showing through and no gaping pocket openings when you sit down. Alternatively, subtle front slant pockets and back welt pockets work well too.
  • Look for flat fronts and a wide waist band: A wider waistband has flattering corset effects. A flat front is definitely a sleeker look than pleats, especially when you sit down (no poufing). Belt loops are optional.

Fit Considerations

These are the important factors to consider when it comes to fit:

  • Waist fit: You’re after a tailored but comfortable fit. Nothing too tight. Remember that a waistband can be altered to fit if it’s too roomy.
  • Grazing hip fit: The fabric should glide over the hips, thighs and bottom area and drape straight into a bootcut or wide legged hem. Not too snug and, as far as possible, no whiskering. If the pants whisker on the thighs, size up and adjust the waist to fit. A bit of whiskering is fine on jeans but dress pants should be fairly whisker-free. For dress pants a looser fit is better than a snug fit – unlike jeans.
  • Waistband position: A waistband that rests above the high hip and below the navel is good, so think mid to high-ish rise. This creates the illusion of a flatter belly, whereas an overly high rise can accentuate a rounded belly.
  • Rise length: Getting the length of the rise right around crotch point is extremely important. Too short and you’ll end up with camel toe. Too long and you’ll look short in the leg and awfully long in the waist. Opt for a tailored fit that does not cling to the crotch, but that’s not too long either.
  • Leg length: The black slacks below are the perfect length, almost skimming the surface of the ground. Unfortunately, you’ll need to commit to a heel height with dress pants.

Semantiks 'Athena Bree' Pants Semantiks 'Athena Bree' Pants

These black bootcut dress pants hang perfectly. The fabric is lustrous and substantial, and the front slant pockets are flattering. The waist band is not quite as wide as I would have liked, but this is a small price to pay for a good, clean and flattering fit. Not bad for $78 and available in sizes 0 to 16 in navy, black, charcoal and chocolate brown. If you’re battling with dress pants, you might like to start here.

Off to Europe

Greg and I are at the airport waiting to board our flight. We’re taking a two week trip to Europe to visit family and friends, and do a little work on the side. My precious Papa lives in Arnhem in the Netherlands so we’ll be going there first. Then off to Amsterdam, Brussels, Antwerp, Zurich and Milan.

We’ll reduce the frequency of posts while we’re away, but there will be at least one a day. If things go really well I will write some thoughts along the way. Failing that we’ll do a series when we return. Either way, I’m excited to share Spring 2010’s Euro trends with you so stay tuned.

Not-so-light packing

I might be in the absolute minority with this opinion but here it is: I do not believe in packing light for airplane travel! By packing light, I mean only packing a carry-on for a week’s trip or longer. Don’t get me wrong, I’m vehemently against paying any kind of overweight and have so far never paid for extra poundage at the baggage check-in counter. And like you, I loathe traipsing around overly heavy suitcases. But I’m not one to only pack a carry-on unless it’s an overnight or weekend stay and I’m travelling alone. I have a baggage allowance and I like to use it.

I travel abroad frequently and I have my own packing system that works well for me. For a trip that’s 4 days or longer, I’ll pack up to ten pounds below my baggage allowance that goes into the hold (the allowance is usually 50 pounds), and carry a virtually empty carry-all plus a large handbag for the flight.

For the suitcase that goes into the hold, I meticulously plan an outfit for each day of the trip, mixing and matching as far as possible, with one or two spare options. I also plan a few going-out-at-night outfits and rotate them as necessary. I try to get by with minimum pairs of shoes but pack lots of accessories and one extra handbag, so that I have two handbags on my trip, and possibly a clutch too (can’t help it handbags are my thing). I carry small bottles of my toiletries and sometimes pack slippers as well. In summary, I like to wear clean clothes on most days of the trip, do a little bit of laundry along the way and still have options.

I also like to bring back things from our trip which means that I need the extra space. Packing a full carry-on on the way there doesn’t allow for the extra space to do this.

I fully understand the advantages of packing light too. You don’t wait at baggage claim, and lugging around a smaller lighter suitcase is infinitely easier than lugging around a larger heavier one. You also have less to pack and unpack at your destination. But I really don’t mind waiting at baggage claim and I’m very used to dragging what I pack, using public transport to get to the hotel in most instances. I’m also fine with unpacking and packing it all in our hotel room. The assurance that I have all that I need with options far outweighs the advantages of packing light.

So I’m not a heavy packer, but I’m not a light packer either. How and what I pack really works for me.  Of course, things might be different if my trips had me spending less than a few days in each destination. Greg went through a stage of doing business trips that covered 5 countries in a week and in that situation traveling with one over-nighter makes a lot of sense.  What’s your packing strategy? Do you like to travel light, not so light, or are you a heavy traveler? What would you like to change about your packing strategy?

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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FFBO: the fast fall back outfit

Often the time that we budget for getting ready in the morning is cut short. So unless we already had a good idea of what we were going to wear that day, we need what I call a “fast fall back outfit” (FFBO). The FFBO is a no-brainer, tried and tested outfit combination that you feel great wearing, AND takes you two secs to put together.

Fast fall back outfits will vary and you may have more than one. I have two generic FFBO combinations:

  • Dress and boots, or ballet flats depending on the season
  • Skinny jeans tucked into flat boots with turtle neck and jacket

As much as I love skirts and wear them regularly, they take the longest to style. I also very rarely wear slacks or walk shorts, so if I’m not in jeans, I’m either in a dress or skirt.

It might be worthwhile to create several FFBOs if you don’t have them already. You could even go so far as to plan the exact outfit combinations in advance. For example, the following ensemble is a more specific interpretation of my first generic FFBO:

  • Charcoal sheath dress
  • Dove grey cascading cardigan
  • Textured hose
  • Chestnut slouch boots
  • Gold accessories
  • Blue handbag

I know this outfit is a winner. I can grab it and feel fabulous in no time at all. Just what the doctor ordered when you only have a minute to decide what to wear.

Do you have fast fall back outfits? If so, what are they? If not, do you think they’re worth the effort?

Blue handbags are fab for Spring and Summer

Turquoise is one of the “it” colours this season, so if you fancy a turquoise handbag, stock up in the next six months. But turquoise is not the only option in blue handbags. Think cobalt, teal, ink blue and royal blue as well. Dark blue bags look great with jeans because they pick up the colour of denim. Bright turquoise bags look fabulous with white, apple green, yellow, rich purple, coral and tomato red. Teal bags look amazing with muted reds, chartreuse, dark purple and earth tones.

Volcom True Romance HandbagSteve Madden Rose Ruffle SatchelNew Faux Leather Domino Bowler Handbag Purse with Metal StudsMARC BY MARC JACOBS 'Totally Turnlock - Teri' ToteBagtique Patent Top Zip SatchelDiesel I Want More Faun Shopper

I have a three year old, dark cobalt blue patent snake skin handbag which I like to wear with black, white and turquoise ensembles. But really, as long as I wear dark blue jeans or a denim jacket, my blue bag works with the outfit.  It took me a little while to get used to pairing a dark blue bag with outfits, but as soon as I got my head around it I was smitten with the look. In many instances, my dark blue handbag has become my “black” bag.

The addition of a new handbag makes existing outfits look and feel new. The power of accessories knows no bounds. So who’s liking the idea of a blue hued handbag?