Not to exclude others (discussion welcome!) but Jayne and Suz, a few thoughts around some of your specific questions --
Suz --
At the risk of opening up the whole "rules/no rules!" thing when it comes to style, what you noticed about my choice in starting to add prints and patterns to my closet is correct.
I had help from the print selection guidelines Bridgette Raes details in her book, Style Rx, and have shared the tips with friends. [Earlier style gurus have said similar, but Raes is where I encountered it, so.] Book link: http://www.amazon.com/Style-Rx....._cd_t_pb_t
Unlike intuition-advocate Gavin “The Gift of Fear” de Becker, Raes notes that her clients’ instincts about prints often run counter to their personalities and style goals. And their coloring. And the size of their body and facial features. My people!
Given my facial features (including square jaw, full lips, almond vs round eyes, "soft" vs defined nose, semi-arched vs linear brows or rounded brows) I find a mix of angled and rounded lines work best for me. I cheat a little with the Missioni fabric because they are a softer angle unlike, say, argyle (shudder...terrible on me) .
Bridgette Raes: The Basics of Picking Prints
* Consider personality: bold types should think twice before undermining their personal power with “ditzy, irreverent” prints; demure types are frequently overpowered by mega-dynamic prints.
* Print scale isn’t just about body size, but about facial features: smaller-sized women can have larger features and vice versa.
* The boldness or softness of one’s personal coloring is one’s “intensity level.” It’s the relationship created by the contrast between hair/skin/eye color, and it can be bold, soft, or somewhere in between. If skin/hair tones change for any reason, intensity can change.
More here, as I was helping another friend, Fizz, pick fabric: http://buildingacolorfullife.w.....ints-pt-2/
*****
Jayne --
You might be interested in reading/skimming the blog posts I did on my friend Eileen. She let me interview and photograph her last year after she went through a re-evaluation of her style (non-style in her words!) and the whole process was fairly emotional for her.
http://buildingacolorfullife.w.....mons-pt-1/
I thought of you because she has a love of womanly retro and goth! Talk about seeming opposites for me.
Eileen realized she wanted her clothes to express her:
* love of color and texture
* leanings toward the exotic and frilly
* goth punk side (she said: "it’s there…it never really went away!")
I think her initial results captured what she wanted. The later ones, too. It's funny because while she and I do overlap and there are items I would so steal -- there are many others (the "tough" leather/hardware, the urban utilitarian") that I'd leave.
Eileen did end up chopping her hair, so below pics are also her. She wanted a version of my Peacock Print dress, so we fabric shopped and the choice is below (retro + womanly!). As you might guess those are her shoes/belt, not mine.