Thistle, sorry this is so long on your post, am really trying not to hijack. For the most part here, I tried to limit myself to replying to comments that mentioned me by name. You have started a really thought-provoking topic!
Alexandra, I agree with you--I don't buy those fibers either. But why on earth do you continue to insist that it is not possible to get quality clothes on the other half of the "mark-up,'slash'" game in the US? Also, I'm not the employer of anyone whose service I purchase. I don't have anyone on my payroll. Laissez-faire capitalism has many problems, and I indicated in my first post in this thread that I live very happily in a system with more controls on prices, but this is the system we live in, where price is more related to marketing and what the market will bear than to quality. There are many advantages to a system based on use values, but any place that has tried to implement that and Marx's other ideas has unfortunately fallen to greed, to paraphrase a very long, complicated history.
Jenn NZ, I don't buy at Zara either, was aware of their model before I saw the first store. I did buy a pair of shorts and 2 skirts at Forever 21 ten years ago. The shorts are still in great shape, but one skirt was stained a couple years ago and the other ripped when it was pulled on hard. They were all cotton, but I assume it was grown/processed in the worst way possible, so I don't shop there any more. One exception--online searches for an item this summer brought up multiple pieces at Forever21, so I bought a dress there that I can dress up or down and wore it to a rehearsal dinner. But I generally don't shop at either of those places, or Urban Outfitters or other similar chains. So although Patagonia is the only place I regularly shop (and pay full or close to full) prices that is known as an "ethical" producer, I do have some standards about production. What are your thoughts now on the "money saved" column? A friend of mine is fond of pointing out that you've only saved if you would have purchased the item regardless.
Sal, I don't think most people agree with you that J Crew (not Factory), Clarks (outlet), Banana Republic, Anthropologie, Nordstrom's (outlet) and other places where I pay those prices are cheap chain stores. But I might be wrong. What do you do when you need to go up a size in your curated second hand shops? Do you shop frequently enough that the curator at that store knows you and can point you in things that interest you? There is a consignment shop in my neighborhood that might be similar to what you describe. I scooped up a knit EF pencil skirt for $$20 at Nordstroms Rack earlier this summer. I often buy, try on at home, and return most of what I've purchased. But I thought I'd get more for this skirt at the consignment place, so I stopped in for the first time ever. She immediately caught onto what I was saying about the style not suiting me, ignored what I said about too many knit skirts in similar colors, and before I could blink had several things in her hands that suited my coloring and would go well with the skirt/my body type. So I can see that working. I don't want that kind of relationship, think it would be awkward for me, but can maybe see what you mean.
Smittie, dang, you just summarized my whole rambly first post in a few short lines--the lower price is the "real" price. Before it, there is an inflated first price, and after it, the deep discount of 70-90% of is an actual cut. Not so sure I agree with your next post though.Krishnadoux seems to agree.
Jenn, interesting food for thought. The international supply chain is something I have taught about in intro geography classes, and I long sought to avoid maquiladoras but I don't know of any mainstream stores that make that possible any more. Do you? Several people have mentioned H&M as an example of fast fashion, but they have their "conscious" line, and then I think of labels like Nike that bounce back and forth from boycott lists to being held up as leaders in ethical supply chains. A friend who wrote her dissertation based on field work in clothing factories in Kenya and is very concerned about justice of many types says her research did not alter her buying habits.
Krishnadoux, the dual definitions of the word "cheap" muddy arguments here. You do realize that I use it in reference to price, and not quality, right? Both Angie and Geylene resisted that at first, although Angie did back away from insisting that I was talking about low quality cheap (I wasn't) and explain that she, as a stylist, may need to purchase one very specific model. I understand that requirement for her, but I don't have the same need. There are quite a few riding boots I could wear just fine, because they are well made, will last a long time, and are fashionable enough for my needs. The semi-custom Ariat boots someone posted about recently are lower priced than the example Angie gave, and even they are likely beyond my needs. What you say about discount sites (I'm not sure what stores you mean) reminds me of early outlets in the 1970s, when TJ Maxx and Marshalls were a new concept, and shopping there required very careful examination of seams, fabric, etc. I don't find that to be the case in the places I mentioned.But the point about sizing--if that applied to me, then I'd probably get things at the inflated price too, but it doesn't. I've gone from L to M to borderline S/M, and so far have no issue finding plenty of things in my size.I hope your husband appreciates the shirt with blue trim and other things you've selected for him with such care, yet I'm not at all convinced that price indicates quality.
Ryce, maybe one day I'll have that discerning eye, but right now, I'm fine with my red shorts from Anthro.
Gaylene, I agree with you that it's a chicken-and-egg problem. If you can devote 5% of your income to to clothing, your argument makes perfect sense. My situation is different. Over the past 1.5 years, I've bought over 2 pieces per month. I've been losing weight/getting in shape, and am still adjusting to the climate where we live (I refused to do so for years, because I don't like it here and want to leave). Those changes are winding down, and I'm finding recently that I am not interested in purchasing clothing, even when I see something that's good quality, fit, and price. I don't need to continue my buying binge, and don't need to keep spending the same amount on clothing. I basically have enough summer things now. I could use some faux-winter items (things that look cozy, but aren't too hot for here, and can be worn for winter with more layers elsewhere), so am keeping my eyes open for that .There is a long cardi in the NAS finds that I want, and I'd like to replace the old-fashioned looking foldover booties/shoes that I just discarded 20 years after buying them. I'm not longing for those things, am simply aware of them. I will eventually come across them at the price I can pay, and will get them, but no stress. What some people see as "killing myself waiting for a sale" feels different to me. I don't have to have it immediately. If it is above a certain price, it isn't available, and I'm fine with that. What's likely to happen in my closet is that as I get a better handle on my style and needs, I will buy fewer pieces, but continue to ignore catalogues, main stores, and first prices, get the things I do buy at places that have low prices for things that are well made, and use the money for travel, delicious food, retirement savings, and my son's college.
But like I've said a couple times in this thread, I reserve the right to change my mind as I learn more. A mistake I have made is purchasing items without a plan for how to wear them, so I will have to see how that settles out as I sort through my closet.