Ensemble: Modern Midi

Halogen Pleat Midi SkirtThis ensemble was inspired by a new addition to my wardrobe: Halogen’s pleat midi skirt in a bold black and cream stripe. I have a soft spot for dramatic fit-and-flare midi skirts because they remind me of my late Mum. With the memories of my Mum fading a little, it’s special to be reminded of her when I see this skirt in my closet. 

Fit-and-flare midi skirts, although a fringe trend at the moment, are Retro Classics with a high longevity factor. To my eye this style of skirt looks best when you incorporate a bit of Modern back into the ensemble. 

Instead of using the exact same striped Halogen pleat midi, I’ve substituted it with another flared skirt in a black and white pattern. Here are the components of the formula: 

Skirt: You’ll need a fit-and-flared midi skirt, in either a solid or pattern, that’s knee-covering but no longer than half way down the calf. 

Top: This is where you can add a Modern aspect to the outfit, so think further than a tucked soft silk blouse, regular button-down shirt, fitted wrap top, or cardigan. Create a bit of casual edge with a tucked denim or chambray shirt. Create interesting proportions with a fluid and luxurious fine gauge pullover that is welted for structure, and scrunch the sleeves. A roomy high-low crop top baring a slither of midriff is another option. Or match the skirt with a fun upscale sweatshirt. 

Topper: A denim jacket or moto get my vote for Modern on trend toppers. Or leave off the topper. 

Footwear: Keep it dainty, Retro and feminine with pointy toe pumps. Add in a trendy aspect with ankle strap pumps. Wear pointy toe flats that are low contrast to your skin tone if heels aren’t your thing. Or wear tailored heeled booties for a harder edge. 

Accessories: An angular and sporty clutch is a fun contrast against the twee integrity of the skirt — another Modern outfit injection. A small satchel or tote with short handles are other options. Add jewellery, eyewear, hose and watch as desired.

Modern Midi Ensemble

Of course, you can also change the colour palette to one that fits your style. Here are some street style renditions of this outfit formula: 

All that’s left to do is speak to the weather angels for warmer weather.

Link Love: How Women Are Portrayed

StyleCaster recently did an article on Lean In, a nonprofit organization that is partnering with Getty Images “to offer a series of photos that showcase women and families in more empowering ways”. For a better idea of the type of stock photos we can expect, head on over to A Cup Of Jo.

This week actor Charlotte Rampling (68) was announced as the new face of NARS Cosmetics, and we heard that Jessica Lange (64) will star in the next Marc Jacobs Beauty campaign. “Are older models here to stay?” asks journalist Anne Karpf, who wrote an interesting analysis on the current state of affairs.

The Guardian also reports that body adornments like piercings are more regularly seen in mainstream fashion magazines these days. One example is model Daria Werbowy sporting a nose ring on the cover of British Vogue’s March issue, a first for the influential fashion mag.

Fab Links from Our Members

April is sharing tons of shoe candy with us: 21 loafers with an edge, and a slide show with more than 400 catwalk footwear looks from the various international Fashion Weeks.

For the seamstresses among us, Caro found some modern minimalist style patterns on BurdaStyle.

Laurinda reports that Lululemon angered their customer base by banning customers who try to resell their clothing online. They relented following negative publicity from the Business Insider article.

Columbine likes the idea of a modest fashion show, and enjoyed BuzzFeed’s report about Christian Fashion Week, that among other creations, featured jewellery made by women rescued from sex trafficking.

On the forum we’ve been talking about matching design elements and colours to our own natural appearance. In that vein, Vildy thought that Janice’s post on working with art as outfit inspiration was lots of fun.

Adorkable loves this little girl and her paper dresses.

Marlene is thrilled about the “Back to Basics” direction Gap is taking this season. She also found this Desperately Seeking Simple post interesting, because she wants to simplify her closet but finds the journey harder than expected.

Deb and Angie would both like to share Sally’s post that helps you hone your scarf style. Angie also points us to another of Sally’s posts that discusses how to pick your cold weather dressing battles.

Ornella enjoyed this BBC article about the little black dress, as “it’s always interesting to wear and read about”.

In this TED talk Australian journalist Tracey Spicer addresses the issue of how much time women put into their grooming and why. Deborah found her comments about the expectations of women in the media — and the workplace — very interesting.

Wise words in this video from 85-year old Betty Halbreich, Bergdorf Goodman’s first personal shopper. Her humility and openness to all people has always moved Isabel.

How to Dress the Rectangle Body Type

Over the last few weeks I have been updating the body type dressing guidelines in the context of current fashion trends. I have already covered the inverted triangleadorable apple and pretty pear. The racy rectangle is next. If you’re unsure of your body type, or new to the concept of body types, then you might want to read my refresher on identifying your body type before tackling this post on the rectangle shape. 

Three important points before I begin: 

  1. These are guidelines, not rules: The information here should be viewed as a helpful starting point when you’re unsure about how to create conventionally flattering and balanced proportions for your shape. Everyone has different figure flattery priorities and sometimes the most stylish outfits ignore the guidelines completely.
  2. The guidelines are general: My philosophy is to define a few simple body types and then be flexible when working with them. Most of us are a mixture of a few body types and don’t look exactly like one of the 5 prototypical shapes. Filter through the information and use the parts that make sense for your shape. 
  3. There is one rule to keep in mind: Have fun with fashion.

You are a rectangle when you have relatively lean limbs, a straight waist, and look quite athletic. You’re not all that curvy around the hips, waist and bust. Instead you look quite angular. Rectangles are typically small to regular sized in the bust. Well endowed rectangles do exist, but are less common. You have narrower shoulders than an inverted triangle, you aren’t as round in the midsection as an apple, and you don’t have the curves of an hourglass. You are, in my experience of dressing people for a living, the rarest of body types. 

Before we cover silhouettes, a few words on the foundation underneath because it affects the fit of the outer layers. First, wear the best bra. Lifting the bustline creates curves in all the right places. A little extra padding and a push-up bra is one way to create a more defined bustline. 

Your body type is quite easy to dress in oh-so-trendy fluid and oversized clothing, because the straight lines on your body are a natural match for straight and shapeless silhouettes. Your boyish frame is compatible with more masculine silhouettes. It’s harder for you to create a bombshell look than it is for a curvy hourglass or pear. 

You essentially have two choices when it comes to creating flattering proportions for your shape, and they go in opposite directions. Either use structure to embrace your straight lines, or use fit to create curves.

Keeping Things Semi Structured or Unstructured

This is the easier route. Accentuate the straight lines on your body by keeping silhouettes semi structured or unstructured.

Tops

  • You wear volume around the midsection extremely well, especially if you’re small busted. Waist-less and boxy dressing was made for rectangular bods because the lines glide over a straight waist instead of fighting with curves. It’s like fitting a square block into a square hole. 
  • Your boyish frame wears a crisp and stiff button-down shirt, or an oversized boyfriend shirt, to perfection. The fit magically falls into place. No pulling on the bust or shoulder. And there’s sufficient structure on the torso, especially when you tuck or partially tuck the shirt. 
  • Smaller busts and longer necks look best in higher necklines like slash, boat, crew, mandarin, funnel and turtle necks. Shirt collars, either open or closed, are another slam dunk. 
  • Shorter necks and larger busts look best in a lower neckline, like a scoop, lowish boat, wrap or V-neck.  
  • Show off your back, arms and shoulders as an alternative to cleavage. Halter necks are a great option, as are tops with high necklines in front and low necklines in the back. 
  • Tops with bust ruffles, ruching, breast pocket detail, front panel detail and pleating usually work well because the curves on the bust do not get in the way. 
  • Dropped shoulder seams and dolman sleeves are fab as long as there is structure on the hip with a welt or high-low hemline. 
  • Raglan sleeves are great as long as the neckline is right for the length of your neck and size of the bust. 
  • Blouson styles are retro and look good with bootcuts or slim-fit bottoms. 
  • Soft billowing blouses and swing tops are excellent when they are cropped for structure or have a high-low hemline. 

Jackets

  • Think masculine shaped jackets with straight lines. The chances are high they will work at most lengths. Don’t go too long if you are petite and short waisted. 
  • The boyfriend blazer, in a fluid or oversized fit, was made for you. Choose a low stance for a modern look, and a slightly higher stance if you’re short waisted. Keep the lapels narrow if you’re small in the bust and small framed.
  • Moto jackets and tuxedo jackets that hang open to accentuate a straight waist are magical. 
  • Bombers are great. Wear them shorter if you’re petite and/or short in the waist. 
  • Collarless Chanel-esque jackets are hard to fit because you battle to fill them out (they are best on ladies with curves). I vote leave those to the apples and inverted triangles who wear them with panache. 
  • Avant-garde styles that are long, drapey and often asymmetric are harder to get right because, despite being structured, they look better on those who can fill them out. Curvy frames provide the right foundation for these types of silhouettes, whereas they often hang and look overwhelming on a straight rectangle. But if you love an arty style integrity, opt for a simpler version with a structured shoulder and bust fit that is shorter in length. 
  • Oversized coats are fab if they are straighter in the waist instead of extra balloon-shaped. Think man coats
  • Trapeze jackets are fun with slim bottoms. 

Bottoms

  • Your frame was made for boyfriend jeans, baggy cargo pocket pants and slouchy trousers. Pleats and side-entry pockets are fine. 
  • Wide legs, in either soft or rigid fabrications, will work if they aren’t overly wide. 
  • You wear ankle pants and cropped pants with the best of them, especially if you’re long in the leg. 
  • Track pants, harem pants, and other avant-garde silhouettes work when they aren’t overly baggy.
  • A-line skirts with straight side seams and a high waist are fab. 
  • Soft, flirty, fit and flare skirts need to be fitted on the waist and hip so that you don’t drown in all the flare. Or wear them a lot shorter for structure. 
  • Fit-and-flare skirts in stiff fabrications are usually better because they hang straighter, which complements your frame. 
  • Skirts with cocoon type draping around the hips work when the waist and hems are adequately tapered for structure.

Dresses

  • Straight shirt dresses with or without a belt were made for you. 
  • Straight shift dresses are a dream, but choose the right neckline for your neck length and bust size. 
  • Cocoon dresses will work if they aren’t too balloon-shaped in the midsection. 

Creating Curvature 

This is the more difficult route. Create curvature on the hips, waist and bust by wearing highly tailored clothing. 

Tops

  • Formfitting tops work when they don’t create muffin top. Wear the neckline that works best for your shape. 
  • Wear formfitting tops with skinnies or tight pencil skirts to create maximum curve. 
  • Wrap tops that are ruched on the side look best on rectangles with a fuller bust. 
  • Formfitting tanks and button-down shirts look great tucked into pencil skirts and bootcuts or wide legs.
  • If you can get your head around wearing wide belts on the waist with baggy tops, go for it. They add a flattering curve to a straight and long waist. Wear a fitted hip belt with a baggy top if you’re short in the waist. 

Jackets

  • You’ll need a blazer that is very nipped in at the waist to create curve on the midsection. 
  • Peplum jackets can work if the waist is very fitted. 
  • Belted jackets, trench coats and tailored pea coats are great.

Dresses  

  • Sheath dresses need to be extra tight to showcase your curves. Choose a neckline that suits your neck length and bust size. 
  • Bias cut dresses are fab because they accentuate the curves on a body. 
  • Wrap dresses are not the best match because you generally battle to fill them out. They do look better on rectangles with a larger bust. 

Bottoms

  • The best way to create curves on a straight bottom is by wearing something very tight, but not constricting. In this way, your body will automatically create curves. Your body was made for tight jeans and you’re able to wear most styles, shapes or lengths with any amount of detail.
  • You look amazing in boyish trouser styles like bootcuts. 
  • Cigarette pants are a slam dunk. 
  • When it comes to skirts, you’ll probably feel most at home in fitted pencil skirts. A knee-length pencil skirt that tapers in at the side seams creates even more curve. Tuck blouses and shirts into pants or skirts to create structure.
  • Pencil skirts with ruffles, pocket detailing, ruching down the side — you name it, and it will probably work because your straight hips like that type of volume, despite the tight silhouette. 
  • Bias-cut skirts and sarongs are fab at creating curves on the hips and thighs. 

One more general dressing tip. Wear a column of colour under a topper to create a long lean line that is extra slimming

Please share your own tips on how to flatter the rectangle shaped body type in the comments section. If there are additional questions on how to wear particular looks and trends, please ask below and we’ll get you sorted.

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Weekly Roundup: Skirts with Flair

We are finally seeing skirts that are not basic pencils make an appearance in retail. And some of them even cover the knee. May this trend continue so that we are assured of silhouette variety in future seasons. 

  • Sejour Twill A-Line Skirt (Plus): A flared paneled skirt is a breath of fresh hair. Match with a tucked fitted or fluid top, and layer with an open soft bomber, denim or moto jacket. 
  • Eileen Fisher Pleated Skirt: Pleats with panache because they are stitched down at the waist, eliminating the gathered pouf-factor. Read the rave reviews. 
  • Halogen Pleat Midi Skirt: A Kate Spade lookalike and, finally, with a bit of length. Match with a tucked denim shirt or short fluid sweater with a welt. This is a lot of skirt, and the stripe is very bold, so consider yourself warned. 
  • Ottoman Weave A-line Skirt: Lovely on a pretty pear or hourglass with a long waist. Stay away if you’re apple shaped or short waisted. 
  • A.L.C Campbell Stripe Skirt: Striking, modern and graphic. The front falls open as you stride and sit down, so watch for that if you plan to wear this skirt to the office. 
  • Milly Print Pencil Skirt: Let the pattern do the talking with this beauty. It needs nothing more than a simple top and pair of shoes.
  • Ming Wang Ruffle Knit Midi Skirt: A great shape for apple and inverted triangle body types because the style adds width to the bottom. It’s more bombshell on an hourglass, and just as fab. Good length for taller gals. Knitted, drapey and comfy. 
  • Zara Pleated Striped Skirt: A breezy kick around skirt for Summer. It’s unlined, but does not cling so it’s not as sheer as you think. 
  • Zara Printed Asymmetric Skirt: An avant-garde skirt that’s stretchy and comfy. It’s also unlined, but not at all sheer because it’s layered. It looks especially good in motion. Fun, although the asymmetric lines might feel off to you. 
  • Zara Striped Skirt: The cut and drape of this skirt is genius, but it only comes in one size. It will probably fit a size small, medium and large because it’s stretchy. The smaller size wears the style lower on the hip, while the larger size wears it further up on the waist. It won’t fit an XS or XL. 
  • Pure DKNY Pull On Skirt: A sophisticated and modern high-low pencil skirt with length, and architectural back drape. Check out the side view. Fun twist on the pencil skirt. 
  • Ralph Lauren Polka Dot Pintuck Skirt: A pretty classic for the pear and hourglass. Love the dotted swoosh. 
  • ASOS Midi Scuba with Pleats: Flared skirts with stitched down pleats look good on all body types because of the structured fit on the hip. Fun and feminine. Fab with an orange top. 
  • ASOS Peplum Hem Pencil Skirt in Texture: A little Latin ruffle for Team Flirty Skirts. 
  • House of Holland Tube Skirt in Patchwork Print: A festive pencil skirt that’s brilliant with white footwear. Loving it with an upscale sweatshirt or fuzzy boxy sweater. 

Remember that flared skirts look great with shorter fluid tops with welts, upscale sweatshirts, and cropped tops. If you are looking for a more classic look, fitted tees and wrap tops, and tucked shirts and tops are the classic go-to options.

Sejour Twill A-Line SkirtEileen Fisher Pleated Skirt

Halogen Pleat Midi Skirt

Zara Printed Asymmetrical Skirt

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Boyfriend Jeans: Three Years In

Boyfriend jeans were fringe in 2009, but over the last three years have become completely mainstream in a large assortment of fits. There’s a large variety of washes and levels of distressing, although most boyfriend jeans are currently in a shade of blue denim. There’s also the occasional pair in white or grey. 

I believe that boyfriend jeans went mainstream because we desperately needed an alternative to super tight jeans. At their slouchiest, they are the polar opposite to the body con fit of sausage casing skinnies. Roomier boyfriends are also in line with current fluid and oversized fit trends, and appeal to those who enjoy wearing comfortable and forgiving clothes. 

You rarely see jeans on the runway, but the few pairs I did see for Fall 2014 were boyfriends. Let’s take a peek: 

Of course, these boyfriend jeans are heavily distressed and the outfits are maximally styled for a theatrical runway effect. The point is that boyfriend jeans are currently the strongest and most fashionable denim silhouette. And by the looks of it, this is going to continue. 

ALL body types can wear boyfriend jeans, and I am especially talking to pretty pears who might need a little more convincing. It’s a question of choosing the fit that works for you. Opt for a slimmer fit, or size down if you’re not into slouchy looks. Size up if you like them extra baggy and slouchy. If you’re an inverted triangle or apple shaped body type, and therefore relatively narrow on the hip and leg, choose to size up on a pair of straight leg jeans to create the boyfriend jeans look. You might find that strategy less overwhelming on the bottom half. On the other hand, if you’re curvy on the bottom and conscious of looking bigger in relaxed styles like regular boyfriend jeans, size up in relaxed skinny styles like Adriano Goldschmied’s Nikki Relaxed Skinny Jean

95% of my clientele, who span a range of sizes, body types and ages, wear boyfriend jeans. For some it’s the only style of denim they are wearing at the moment. And their responses to trying the look have been quite similar. A little dubious at first, but later… my word, why didn’t they try this style sooner? 

Add a boyfriend style to your wardrobe for an updated look and as an alternative to tight jeans. In fact, add several pairs if you love the vibe because they are not a fad. The roomier denim silhouette will instantly refresh your casual style and feel very comfortable. Belt and tuck, or partially tuck the top. 

I love my baggy boyfriend jeans and have three pairs that are in regular rotation. I also love my relaxed skinnies which are in my mind  “Boyfriend-Lite”, because I sized up for a baggier look. Boyfriend jeans provide a roomy change to my straight legs, which I also wear frequently. 

Three years into this mainstream trend and I’m curious to hear how you feel about it. Are you wearing boyfriend jeans, and if so, what do you like about the style? If you’re not wearing boyfriend jeans, tell us why they don’t tickle your fancy. And if you’d like to wear boyfriends, but feel challenged by styling or fit, let’s get you sorted in the comments section. 

Boyfriend Jeans on the Runway