Weight Fluctuations and Maintaining Good Fit

Finding an item that fits perfectly can be challenging. When your weight fluctuates, garment fits change and it’s even tricker. I run into this challenge with my clients regularly. Here are some suggestions that I’ve offered to them over the years. 

Slight Fluctuations

When your weight fluctuates a little (less than 5 pounds either way), your items might fit ok, but not look and feel as perfect as they once did. This isn’t too serious, because items are still wearable. You don’t need to start thinking about bigger or smaller sizes, and in some cases you will just wear certain items less frequently until you return to the weight where they feel fab.

These types of weight fluctuations are unnoticeable in fluid and oversized fit tops, knitwear, coats, jackets and dresses, so those are handy and forgiving items to keep on hand. Jeans, stretchy bottoms, wide trousers, leggings, fit-and flare-dresses, A-line skirts, cocoon coats and vests are great too. You’ll see and feel the weight fluctuation the most in tailored items that do not have stretch and follow the contour of the body like sheath dresses, woven pencil skirts, and tailored woven trousers.

Moderate Fluctuations

It is harder to manage when your weight fluctuates regularly to the extent that you need one size up or down in many wardrobe items (typically 8 to 10 pound fluctuations.) My clients in this situation tend to keep two sizes in their wardrobe. It’s a costly exercise, but a kind strategy to your body and psyche because you have items that fit and make you feel fab at both extremes of your weight range.

Significant Changes

If your weight changes and stays at the new level for a longer period, you will need clothes in several sizes up or down to maintain good fit. My clients who have gained weight tend to pass on items that are several sizes too small. Some want to hold onto them, but I discourage that because it can exacerbate negative body image. Sometimes we agree to pop the items in a holding zone as a compromise. In the case that a client fits back into the items at some point, they’re usually not interested in wearing them anyway. Starting afresh is best.

When you are on a weight loss programme over a long period of time, and gradually losing a significant amount of weight, you ideally need clothing that fits properly along the way. Budget permitting, you deserve the reward of seeing your body in great fitting clothes as your body changes. There are ways to keep the cost to a minimum. Each time you lose weight that warrants another size down, purchase a very small mix-and-match capsule that gets you through to the next milestone. Assess your wardrobe needs each time you need to purchase a capsule in a smaller size. Don’t forget to be refitted for a bra and knickers, do laundry more frequently, be patient, and don’t try to replace everything at once. Be thrifty and shop the sales. Pass on the clothing that is several sizes too big.

Forum member Toban recently lost a significant amount of weight and shared how she maintained good fit throughout that leg of her style journey. She offers tangible solutions that are well worth a read. Congratulations, Toban.

The Four Building Blocks of Your Wardrobe

Effective wardrobes, and wardrobe capsules, use four essential building blocks. This has recently been a hot topic on the forum, so I thought I would summarize the way I think about this in a post. 

1. Wardrobe Basics

Basics are items like underpants, bras, camisoles, thermal underwear, shapewear, leggings, sleepwear, loungewear, socks, hosiery and workout wear. Many of these items are not visible components of your outfits.

Extremely bold versions of socks and hosiery can sometimes qualify as statement pieces in an outfit. But for the most part, they’re wardrobe basics.

2. Wardrobe Essentials

Essentials are usually versatile, current and simple in design, but they are not wardrobe basics. They are the “glue” that makes other items in your wardrobe work together. They can be clothing items, footwear or accessories. They often form part of your signature style. They are a specific item within a wardrobe category, but are not the entire wardrobe category. They are not statement pieces themselves, but often create a pulled together look by complementing a statement piece. They are PERSONAL. What is essential to one person is not to another.

3. Wardrobe Statements

Statements are wardrobe items that are eye-catching, memorable, and stand out in some way. They are full of personality and often somewhat unique. Where basics and essentials are the support act, the statement piece is the star of the show. They can be simple in design, yet bold or shiny in colour or pattern. Some prefer their statements exceptionally maximal and loud, whereas others prefer a quieter statement piece.

4. Wardrobe Completers

Items that are neither basic, essential nor statement are what I call completers. If your wardrobe is a movie set, the lead actors are the statement pieces, the supporting actors are the essentials, the film crew and the director are the basics, and all the extras in the background are the completers.

Any item — regardless of whether they are a basic, essential, statement piece or completer — can be a wardrobe workhorse. All of your building blocks evolve over time as you move through the current leg of your style journey.

I wish I could give you magical correct percentages for each of the building blocks, but that depends on your style and sartorial preferences. Generally though, maximal dressers tend to have a greater percentage of statement pieces. Minimal and “simple uniform dressers” tend to have a larger percentage of essentials and completers. You might wear lots of statement dresses and skirts in Summer, but keep things simpler in Winter, and vice versa.

I tend to have roughly equal quantities of each wardrobe building block. I have all my bases covered, and can easily create outfits that make me feel fab across a range of settings and occasions. I adore pretty bras, knickers, camisoles and loungewear, so I have a lot of undies and comfies. I have a wardrobe rich in essentials, and will happily dress in essentials from head-to-toe. I also have a wardrobe rich in statement pieces because of my love for bright colours, gold, and bold patterns. I have brightly coloured items across all wardrobe items because I crave a change in colour more than a change in silhouette. Completers are represented in about the same quantity as the other building blocks.

It can be helpful to assess your wardrobe across these building blocks if you’re struggling to create fab outfits. Maybe you need an injection of statements to amp up your look, or a slew of essentials to tone down the statements. Maybe you need to marry your essentials and statements with the right completers. Maybe you need to get your undies and socks sorted because they’re affecting the comfort levels of your clothes and footwear. It’s quite the delicate balance to get right.

Ensemble: Blazers and Bootcuts

Since I’m craving structure and conventional outfit proportions on this leg of my style journey, I’ve been wearing my old Love Story jeans with a structured blazer quite a bit recently. I’m LOVING the combination. The jeans are wider than bootcuts on the hem, but fitted on the thigh so technically they’re bell-bottoms. I wear them with two inch pointy toe heeled booties to create a long leg line since the hems skim the surface of the ground. The long leg line and tailored integrity of the outfit feels magical, and I so enjoy the change.

Granted, since I can only wear two inch heels for short amounts of time and bell-bottoms in dry weather, I can’t wear the combination as often as I would like. It’s reserved for short client meetings and dinner outings when it isn’t raining. My favourite combination was combining bell-bottom jeans with a semi-tucked burgundy turtleneck, burgundy belt, velvet floral blazer, cream booties and burgundy bag. I topped the lot off with an olive anorak. The exact items of the outfit are represented in the collection.

The combination on the left approximates my own outfit. The other renditions show how colour adds punch and pizzazz to a simple pair of black bootcuts. Never underestimate the power of colour as a styling tool. Irregular colour combinations can add busloads of interest to basic outfits.

Choose any colour palette across solids and patterns and come up with your version of the look. Here are the components:

Bootcuts: Choose a pair of full-length bootcut jeans or pants. Bell-bottoms are more dramatic because they’re wider on the hems, but just as fitted on the hips. Achieve perfect pant lengths with your choice of footwear. Hems should be no more than a quarter of an inch off the ground with your shoes on if you want to create a long leg line. I like my own hems to skim the surface of the ground because it looks luxurious.

Layering top: Choose any type of top that layers well under a tailored blazer. Anything from a sleeveless shell, tee and turtleneck, to an asymmetrical tunic or boho blouse in either a knit or woven can work. Fit can be tailored, fluid or very fluid. Semi-tuck the top for extra structure or leave the top untucked. The lengths of the top and blazer do not need to match. Personally, I like my tops to be shorter or longer. I can achieve the shorter length with a semi-tuck.

Blazer: Choose a Modern Classic blazer with a tailored fit because you’re after the structure here. Leave the blazer unbuttoned.

Footwear: Choose footwear that works with the length of the bootcuts. Pointy toes look particularly elegant underneath wide hems. The higher the heel that you combine with the right length of hem, the longer your legs will look.

Outerwear: This is optional depending on the weather and setting. I layer a cocoon-style coat over the lot because it’s Winter. Long puffer coats work well too.

Accessories: Finish off the outfit with an optional belt or scarf. Add a bag that works with the palette, and incorporate jewellery, eyewear and watch as desired.

Ensemble: Blazers & Bootcuts

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Five Fab Finds for Spring & Summer

These somewhat simple and versatile items are not to be underestimated because they can become wardrobe workhorses. There are lots of colour and size options, and they won’t break the bank. 

1. Gap Denim Jackets

Gap does GREAT denim jackets across an assortment of vibes, lengths, washes and silhouettes. Most impressively, they stock sizes XS to XXL across petite, regular and tall. The XXL tends to fit a size US16/18. The XS is a little roomy when you need a narrower fit. Some of my clients bought Gap denim jackets with me eleven years ago, and they’re still going strong.

Personally, denim jackets are my thing and therefore a very important wardrobe essential and workhorse. I have several across a range of washes, lengths, and fits. They are my favourite way to dress down a dressy dress or skirt. I like to wear them with olive utility pants and patterned pants too. I will also sport them with all sorts of jeans, and layer them under a coat.

2. Boden Swimwear

Boden swimwear is extremely well made, superb quality, and fits well. Bless them for providing lots of colour options, and making silhouettes that support the bust and create coverage in an alluring and flattering way. Most of their tops and bottoms can be mixed and matched. Their tops come in bra sizes, and suits go up to a US16, and fit true to size.

After a month of online swimwear shopping, in which I was as picky as can be, it was Boden’s Alacati Bikini Top with the matching Bikini Shorts in navy polka dots that earned a place in my wardrobe. It’s wonderfully Modern Retro and ticked off all the boxes. I am so sorted.

3. Halogen Linen Maxi Cardigans

Clients are very fond of these lightweight and comfy maxi cardigans that work extremely well as a quick slimming and elongating casual topper over all sorts of sleeveless tops, dresses and sheer blouses. Versatile, breathable, and machine washable. Comes in petites, and the XL fits a US16. Works well on a larger bust. Read the rave reviews

4. Banana Republic Knit Wrap-Front Top

The silhouette has been around for a while, but seldom in a substantial knit that creates an angular drape and is a little more structured on the hips. The structured cuffs on the sleeves are lovely, and diagonal lines are magically flattering. This silhouette works well on a larger bust, broad shoulder line, and shorter neck. The top looked awful on my narrow shoulders, long neck and regular size bust, so there you go. Great with wide crops or culottes.

5. Converse Leather Fleece-Lined Hi-Tops

I can’t rave enough about these hi-tops because the fleece lining and leather fabric makes them EXTREMELY comfortable, supportive and warm. Their iconic and Modern Retro timeless look tickles my toes. They fit both a lower and higher volume foot, and any width ankle. The grippy soles make them great for walking on ice and light snow. I have the black and cream and walked cities flat in them. I also walk or Yorkie Sam in them daily in Winter. They are my casual Winter travelling shoes, and I’m thinking of duplicating the cream.

Beating the Winter Blues

February can be a trying month for your style when you have long, cold or grey Winters. Your skin feels terribly dry, you’re recovering from a cold or the flu, negative body image sets in, and you generally feel down about your look. Chin up! Here are some strategies for beating the Winter blues that I’ve used myself or suggested to clients. 

1. Closet Edit and Review

Forget Spring cleaning — edit and review your closet in Winter. Pass on items that you’re done with, and identify wardrobe holes. You might have many wardrobe items, but do you have enough of what you need at this time of year? If you keep wearing the same items over and over again, get variations of exactly those items to counter outfit boredom. Grab what you can on sale, and inject some newness.

2. Outfit Creation Session

Set aside some time to try new combinations with the items in your wardrobe. Invite a fashion-savvy friend or family member along and have a ball. Document the outfits by taking a quick photo of them, and plan what you’re going to wear for the following week. Lather, rinse, repeat.

3. Refresh With Some Quick Fixes

I believe in a slow approach to style, but the occasional quick-fix purchase can add just enough excitement to your style for a while. Items like a new coat, pair of boots, bag or scarf can make quite the difference as you wait for Spring to dawn.

4. Wear Spring & Summer Colours

If you crave colour, wearing brights, pastels, rich jewel tones, and shades of white in the middle of Winter goes a long way to creating a happy mood. This isn’t usually something you can fix in the middle of Winter unless you already have the items. But you can plan ahead for next season and make sure your happy colours are reflected in your Winter wardrobe.

5. Plan Your Spring and Summer Wardrobe

It can be therapeutic to plan how you’ll refresh your style for Spring and Summer when there’s ice and snow on the ground. It gives you something to look forward to, plus you’ll be sorted on that first warm Spring day. That’s why a closet edit and review is essential. You’ll know exactly what you have before you plan how you’ll add that next layer of fabness to your style.

6. Change Your Hair and Make-Up

Do something drastic to your hair, or make a more subtle change. Cut it shorter, grow it out, add some colour, go grey, leave it curly, or fire up the flat iron. Or change up your make-up routine. Treat yourself to an hour at the make-up counter and see what happens. Whatever it takes to create a happy change — go for it.

7. Arrange a Clothing Swap

Arranging a clothing swap with friends is one way to pass on and repurpose wardrobe items. It’s a fun, sustainable and affordable way to inject newness into your wardrobe and the wardrobes of others. Turn up the music, add some snacks, and get styling.

8. Get Great Underwear

Do not underestimate the power of good and new underwear. It feels great on the body and positively affects the silhouette and drape of your clothing. It can also boost your body image and make you feel more desirable.

9. Move Your Body

Creating endorphins is one of the most positive effects of exercise. Move your body to create those endorphins and experience a mental and physical change. Your mood is lifted, stress is relieved, you’re energized and motivated to get on with the tasks at hand. There’s nothing like a workout to get your mind, body and spirit in a healthy place.

10. Create Something

Creating something from scratch is very satisfying, therapeutic, and clears your head. Find something creative to do daily or a few times a week. Perhaps it’s trying a new craft, restoring an old piece of furniture, painting, playing a musical instrument, re-decorating, sewing, designing a website, knitting, creative writing, DIY home projects, or cooking up a storm at home.

I use many of these strategies. I edit and review my closet monthly. I just bought a pair of gold boots that make my Winter outfits feel fresh and futuristic. I wear brights and shades of white throughout Winter because they create sunshine on our awfully grey days. I’ve been planning my Spring and Summer style refresh since January, and have completed purchasing my Modern Retro beach capsule. I bought red bra, knickers and camisole to celebrate the Lunar New Year (it’s the year of the dog, which is my sign in the Chinese zodiac.) I go to a heated Vinyasa yoga class four times a week, which feels like a bit of heavenly Summer in the middle of Winter and creates loads of endorphins. I walk our Yorkie Sam daily, and cook from scratch most evenings as a creative outlet.

Over to you. Feel free to add how you beat the Winter style blues in the comments section.