Welcome to our 2008 YLF Hong Kong extravaganza! Birthday celebrations recently took us back to the world capital of stylish streetwear and we have lots to share. This is the first in a series of blog entries that we will do over the next couple of weeks.

Copying garments or having them custom-made is popular in Hong Kong. After growing up in the city and working with garment manufacturers in the heart of its rag trade, it’s odd that I had never done this before. While we were living in Hong Kong my late mother had all her frocks, suits and maternity wear custom-made. I remember her tailor visiting our home several times a season. They had a great relationship and understood each other perfectly, despite the fact that they had to communicate using sign language and broken English.

On our recent trip to Hong Kong I wanted to experience custom tailoring for myself. There are literally hundreds of tailors to choose from, but we eventually decided to try world renowned Sam’s Tailor in Tsim Sha Tsui. Sam’s has been in business for decades and has made suiting and formal attire for people like Bill Clinton, Kate Moss, Nelson Mandela and David Bowie. My goal was to base new garments on two of my existing pieces: I wanted to duplicate a retro H&M jacket in a better-end fabric, and I wanted to capture the exquisite fit of my classic Anne Fontaine button down shirt.

The tiny shop front is located on lively Nathan Road. It was bustling with tourists, at least ten attentive staff members and endless rolls of stacked fabric. The floor was filled with people being measured, picking fabric, fitting clothing and negotiating prices. Sam himself, who’s real name is Manu Melwani, was very charming.

Even though I was trying to capture the fit of existing garments, I too was re-measured after selecting my fabrics and agreeing on a price. Service was fast and I was in and out in twenty minutes. My first fitting for both items was scheduled for the next day. I was excited and a little apprehensive.

My new, fully lined jacket turned out beautifully. I was impressed with the speed and skill of the tailor. I chose a wool blend “Chanel-esque” false plain basket weave fabrication in black and cream. The fabric is a similar weight and texture to the original H&M jacket and this turned out to be a key ingredient in the success of the process. After a minor center-back waist adjustment, it was perfect. The monogrammed inside label is a nice touch.

Based on this experience I think that using a good Hong Kong tailor to reproduce the fit of an existing garment is fairly flop proof if you stay true to the style detailing and the fabrication of the original. Things go horribly wrong as soon as you get too clever. I found this out the hard way with a failed attempt to replicate the fit of my favourite Anne Fontaine shirt. More about that in part two tomorrow.

It’s no secret that I love vibrant colours and enjoy sporting a few of them at a time. I’m not afraid of colour and this has been part of my style for as long as I can remember.

But my ensemble preferences have been predominantly neutral over the last 6 months. I’m wearing a lot of black, white, cream and grey together, with a focus on texture as opposed to colour. I do not wear black from head to toe – whenever I wear black, it’s usually together with white or cream to keep things looking soft and pretty. So my ensembles are still dramatic and contrasting, just monochromatic.

I sometimes punctuate my “new textured neutral look” with bright handbags and shoes, either cobalt, turquoise, yellow or green. But just as often with black, grey, cream or red handbags and shoes instead. These days I view red more as a basic neutral than a “bright”.

I guess I felt I was in a rut and needed a change. Who else is in a neutral mood?

Most fashion magazines are pushing pleated pants styling. You guessed it, another revived ‘80’s trend that took us well into the ‘90’s. I know I was not alone in wearing loads of unflattering pleated pants 20 years ago (especially high-waisted styles that were baggy on the thigh and tapered at the ankle). I even wore a bodysuit with pleated paper-bag jeans. Awful.

Most revived trends come with updated and innovative design improvements. For the last two seasons, the “new” pleated pant has been offered in two variations: slouchy and wide, or slick and skinny. The question is, do they look better than they did in the ‘80’s? Can some body types pull off pleated pants with style, or is this look beyond redemption?

I’ve got my own ideas on the recovered trend, but before I spill the beans I’d love to hear your thoughts. Yay or nay for pleated pants?

Wide and slouchy pleated styles.

Sleek and skinny pleated pants styles. The black pair are looking a little genie-ish.

I’m besotted with the grey footwear trend. I think I caught the bug when I saw the abundance of grey footwear in Paris earlier this year. We’re in Hong Kong this week and, if anything, the trend is even more pronounced.

Grey peds are an effective alternative neutral. The colour operates like a metallic without the glitz, which makes it a more versatile choice than neutrals like brown or navy. I’ve found that grey shoes add a refreshed edge to Autumn and Winter outfits. They also tend to soften the look. As much as I adore a great black ped, I’m enjoying and encouraging the refinement and newness of grey footwear this season.

I currently have grey Chuck Taylors and distressed titanium pumps. Both pairs are in heavy wardrobe circulation because they seem to “lift” my current clothing combinations. So much so that I am bringing home a pair of grey knee-high, slouchy boots and round toed, studded pumps from Hong Kong.

I love it when a single item like a new pair of shoes brings life to an existing wardrobe. Try adding grey shoes to your mix. I doubt you’ll be disappointed.

An assortment of grey ballet flats, pumps, booties and boots. Those of you that are ahead of the game and own grey shoes, help me to convince others.