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Worth the alterations and tweaks?

Janet

(website)

Veteran

I have been keeping an eye out for a great dress I can wear in cooler months, but this is a really awful year for my colors and preferences. Everything is warm or pastel tones, ditsy florals, tiers and puffed sleeves, etc.

I found this shirt dress on TRR and even secondhand it’s not cheap — it’s silk, and from Altuzarra. I love it. It has pockets and the fabric is lovely with nice swish and drape. I love the colors and the cut, and it fits me great…until you get to the chest. It’s just a smidge too snug at the chest button and gapes as soon as I move around. There appears to be very little seam allowance inside so I don’t think it can be let out. Since it would be a cool weather item, I think I’d be content to wear it unbuttoned slightly over a tank top or tissueweight layering scoop-neck tee (maybe even a tissue weight black turtleneck), or a long slip with a not-too-deep scoop neckline that looks like a tank top underneath. I’m showing it here with the problematic button unbuttoned and a black slip underneath, but this is probably not quite the right slip.

Other tweaks are also necessary if I keep it: it appears to have once had a belt. Belt is gone but loops are still there. I would cut those off, and the waist would need a simple hook and eye fastener added to fill in that little gap where the belt would normally cover it. Or, I can just wear a belt! I’ve included some photos with a belt and without.

The sleeves are a little on the long side, but that is never a deal breaker for me. If it bugs me, I can move buttons on the cuff so it closes more snugly around my wrist and doesn’t shift down over my hand.

It also has a high slit on one side, but a long slip or black underskirt beneath would be fine. I could also get away with it if I wear opaque black tights or leggings underneath. I’m showing it here with the knee highs I’m wearing today just so you can see where the slit is.

It’s quite long, but I think I like the dramatic length with heeled black boots or booties, which is how I would wear something like this.

I have a difficult time finding dresses that fit me that I actually like, so I’m torn. Is this good enough on me to be worth the tweaks and alterations? Or should I return and keep looking?

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34 replies

Latest reply was from Momo

avicennia

Veteran

Janet — I suspect that you’ll get a lot of compliments on the dress, as it’s dramatic, unusual and a good color for you. You goal in posting was to ask if tweaks and alterations are reasonable — to my mind they are. But to my eye the dress does not look as flattering as many, if not most, of your outfits. The boxy top reads as incongruous with the bulky bottom. If it were me, I’d be tempted to have the skirt slimmed.

AndiB

Veteran

Is the waist falling where you like it? As a fellow short waisted gal that is my biggest problem area with dresses that have a horizontal seam like this. I usually want that seam an inch or two higher for it to fall best on me. Dresses are the hardest for me for fit. It feels like … a lot of fabric, too. I can see why you are tempted. The color is glorious on you.

Synne

Veteran

Wow!! You have a talent for finding very YOU garments. Beautiful!
I don't know about the alterations. I do my own (badly) so I don't know what the cost may eventually be. Also, I didn't notice the ivory rim at the bottom of the skirt at first. The dress would be even prettier without that IMO!

Anonymous

Agreeing with avicennia that I can also see the multiple positives but maybe you should hold out for even better.

The thing that does bother me is the white hem, which diverts the eye from your face, from your entire upper half actually.

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Avicennia, hmm, the top is quite fitted so if it looks boxy to you, I’m not sure that’s a good sign of what it’s doing for my body. I don’t see that but this is why I ask for feedback.

AndiB, the waist actually falls at a good spot on me — it fits correctly. But I know what you mean about the break between the top and bottom, in terms of visually hiding how short my waist actually is. Perhaps this also goes back to Avicenna’s point.

Hmm. Not looking encouraging so far, but again, this is why I ask. I get smitten with something, wishing for it to work on me. My body does not play well with about 90% of the dresses out there, and of the remaining 10% very few are my style and taste. Sigh. Maybe it’s better to stick with skirts and black tops.

Sal

Veteran

I think these dresses are better in motion rather than in a still shot.

I have a shirt dress that is similar in shape. I roll the sleeves to give more structure. I also shortened mine a little although I had mixed advice about whether to or not.

My hesitation is the white band at the bottom - I do find it a bit distracting. I like it with the belt and I love the colours and pattern.

Jenni NZ

Veteran

Hmmm. I am afraid it just looks “too much” altogether. Too much fabric, and I really notice the too-long sleeves, they are bunching up. I can’t think of you in dresses much apart from the WHBM beautiful navy one and the formal red. To my mind the WHBM dress looks so much better than this one, even though this colour is good on you.

Jonesy

Veteran

Janet, the dress is gorgeous and I can totally relate to the issue of a bust that's slightly too snug! Questions to ponder: Would it feel natural and comfortable to have that bust-height button undone and a cami underneath, i.e., is this something that you do? (it looks natural and fine in the pic, but how does it feel?) For me, I wouldn't wear a shirt like this, so making that adjustment would feel unnatural to me, IYKWIM, and thus I would *think* I'd wear the dress that way, but in actuality I probably wouldn't and it would end up hanging in my closet. I have learned this the hard way! Adding the small hook and eye at the waist and moving the buttons on the cuffs seem like easy alterations, so I wouldn't worry about those. With the cut of this, I prefer it belted as you've shown. I also think it would look splendid with a jacket over it.

My additional two cents on TRR and tailoring: Sometimes an item arrives at my doorstep and it's simply gorgeous, beautiful, sublime, etc., but it doesn't quite fit. Since I don't have access to a good tailor, I always send it back, especially if it's too small through the shoulders or bust. On the other hand, have you ever looked at the Directrice's blog? She's an attorney in DC who has an amazing tailor, and she buys stuff from TRR (along with Yoox and the Outnet, etc.) and has them tailored--sometimes dramatically, changing the garment in fundamental ways--all the time. So it depends on what you are comfortable with, your tailor, how much you'd like to spend, etc. etc.

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Jonesy, really good point about wearing the top that way. No, I don’t wear shirts that way although I did in the past. They usually end up feeling too bunchy like that.

I actually tried on a jacket over the dress after I posted and I fear that the style of the top combined with the fit issue makes jackets problematic with it too — the collars start fighting. The jacket try-on was instructive and I don’t know why it didn’t occur to me earlier.

I also have watched some of Trinny Woodall’s IG videos about how her tailor completely refashions garments, but I don’t think I (or my seamstress) are quite up for that level of project. She is good for simple alterations.

Thanks for the feedback — it’s going to be returned. Oh well. Next!

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Jenni, yes, the gown and the navy blue dress are really good — I am thankful that at least I have those two as a couple of good “occasion” dresses. I think nearly every dress I own has required alteration — I am not a good “off the rack” fit in dresses. The exception is if something has some stretch but even then it’s tough.

JAileen

Veteran

If you keep it, please don’t cut off the bottom. Yes to a belt, and moving the buttons on the sleeves will make a world of difference. They will just be blousy. As for snugness, though, that might be a dealbreaker.

cjh

(website)

Veteran

One thing to consider to extend the room in the bust would be to add an extension to the underneath/bottom side, and move the bustline button over. It looks like the print in that area is black, so you could use a black fabric to make the extension. I’ll try to draw a picture.

I kind of like it better without the belt except for the disruption in the print showing without a belt. Maybe a different color or width of belt?

The white around the hem doesn’t bother me, except for the skimpy double turned hem. This kind of dress deserves a better finish.

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SarahD8

Veteran

It sounds like you have made your decision and I'm here to say you chose right -- I think this dress overwhelms you a bit and you can do better.

But for future reference, I am pretty sure that the directrice has even posted Fatima's contact info on her blog -- you might be close enough to make it worth the trip to DC

lozz_oz

Veteran

Gosh... it’s a great dress. I’m agreeing with AndiB that the waistline looks a bit low, although the addition of the belt visually moves it upwards.
I like to wear shirt dresses with the sleeves scrunched, mainly because the sleeves are always too long, but also showing some lower arm means less dress overwhelm.
Would you consider also wearing this open over pants or jeans?
I think it has great potential as long as you are happy with the dress not being able to be fully buttoned up.

rachylou

Veteran

Sounds like you have decided, Janet. I will say I like it for its Wild West vibe and possibly moving the buttons over would do the trick - altho that could mess with the way the garment lies and probably wouldn’t yield perfection. I will also say I’m not sure how much you’d really like wandering around doing True Grit… that may be more a rachylou thing

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

Honestly I love the dress on you, especially belted, but the bust gaping is a big problem that is hard to solve (unless someone has a brilliant idea). Side note: I believe it was an oversight that TRR did not mention the missing belt, they should have.

Tanya

Veteran

It is a lovely dress and has potential, but it is also a bit overwhelming. I sounds like you have already decided not to keep it, and I agree, I think there are more "Janet" dresses out there to be found.

Bijou

Veteran

I think you have made the right decision. It is sooo close, but not perfect - the waist does not fit right, sleeves a bit too long and with being a bit tight over the bust - it all adds up to why bother unless you love it.

It is a beautiful dress, but I prefer you in your VB black dress which I know is a summer dress but it proves that dresses that fit you perfectly are out there.

slim cat

Veteran

It's a lovely dress but the list of little changes/alterations was getting a tiny bit long ( without a great seamstress ). I think you will find something even better - hopefully this season.

lyn67

Veteran

Oh a great very Janet print and colors, and is SILK!!! Then, is the lower hem white? That (and the longer blousy sleeves) bugs me the most- kind of shortens you and I doesn't see it repeated anywhere else in the dress-(thus I love the broken up line of it) so a bit disturbing (to me) or maybe try a white bootie to it for elongating ankles and styling the white hem more intentional? The thing with the gape on the bust-and waistline can be somehow easily solved if really wanted...See how you decide.

Mary Beth (formerly LBD)

(website)

Veteran

This absolutely took my breath away, Janet, because every line and color in this dress matches your own! You added the belt, and I think that answered any questions about tweaks that I had!

My thought: tighten the buttons on the cuffs, as you said. Keep the belt. If you feel you want to wear it closed, sew in a couple of hidden hook and eye closures (I usually sew two into the blouses I wear) - although, because it’s silk, have a pro do this, if you want it. But TBH, I love the open collar + cami, because it looks more relaxed and cool-girl, and also mirrors the slit on the leg.

I think you have a lot of fun options with that slit, as far as slips and hosiery go (or possibly no slip, if you wear this to a fancy holiday shindig).

This dress just shrieks “All Hail The Artist, Janet” to me. I vote keep, and Tim Gunn the heck out of it. (“Make it work, people”)

ETA: I just remembered that about 1 out of 3 times, I’ve been able to fix a too-snug bust by tightening my bra straps, or trying a different, more-fitted bra.

cat2

Veteran

I am in the It’s Overwhelming camp, and would for something else to come along.

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Thanks, all. Yeah, the consensus with just a few exceptions seems to be that I can find better…someday. I don’t think my shape is that freakish, but dresses make me feel that way! LOL I have looked at the usual retail candidates for long sleeved midi dresses that are not dressy, and the pickings are seriously slim. Not a good year for dresses — I suppose the retailers and designers were still in pandemic loungewear mode for this season. Unless you’re a fan of looking like an extra on Little House on the Prairie.

Mary Beth, I’m actually wearing a supposed minimizer bra and still no luck with preventing the gaping. The fabric is so silky that gaping will be evident very quickly, unlike stiffer or thicker fabrics.

I think it’s too much work for a piece that isn’t getting overwhelming support. I also struck out on the striped Maje dress here too — too long in the top and the fit through the waist was not right. I tried pinning the shoulders to see if it could be altered but that resulted in the zipper doing some odd things. Oh well! Maybe someday I’ll find something else.

JAileen

Veteran

Remember, it’s not you, it’s the dress. I was talking to my neighbor the other day. She is much taller than me, and has given me things with sleeves that are too short for her. I’ve given her things that are too long on me. We were talking about our husbands. They are about the same height and build, and can buy things off the rack with no alterations required whatsoever. She dropped off a bunch of his things for the thrift store and was amazed when I told her how popular they were, especially since it’s such an average size.

Janet

(website)

Veteran

I know, you’re right, Janet. I’m so average in so many ways — height only just slightly taller than average, weight is average, average dress size…but as with many things, the devil is in the details. The modifiers of wider hips and larger bust on a narrow back, plus my short torso, mean that tailored dresses or any tailored sets like suits have always been super difficult for me. I can finagle some summer pieces that are sleeveless, but sleeves make top-length alterations prohibitive. I’ve had a frustrating past few days on completely unrelated matters, and when I’m already in a mood, it always feels like the clothes are judging me, even though that’s totally ridiculous!

Kyle

Veteran

I wonder if a wrap or a faux wrap dress might be a good option. Typically they are stretchy, which could accommodate your larger bust, and a small alteration can ensure that the neckline doesn’t show too much, if that’s a concern. I saw some midi-length wrap dresses on Boden, I think.

cat2

Veteran

I think dresses are really hard, you have to find a brand that cuts the right bust, hip and waist proportions, as well as putting the waist in the right place. I just tried a zillion brands without judgment until I found a few that reliably fit, but it required some grim dressing room sessions in department stores with tons of brands. I ended up with an odd mix of high and low end brands that work, including some I had never worn before, and a much longer list of what doesn’t work.

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Kyle, I like the idea of a wrap dress, and when I was a size or two smaller, I had a DVF that was really nice. These days, however, they’d be a little short for me at knee length, and my body has changed. I tried a gorgeous plum wrap dress in a local boutique but it was too large on top and did some weird things at my hips, so that one didn’t work.

I’m so picky about colors and prints — I like Boden quality a lot but their dresses always miss the mark for me. The prints are too primary/cute or preppy or officey. I need a good moody floral or abstract print with some black in it! Hence my excitement about this piece.

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Cat2, I can relate! Fortunately I don’t rely on dresses like I do on jeans, so this isn’t a critical mission — just a new idea I wanted to explore a bit, of a dress I can dress down with boots and a casual jacket. Perhaps it is not meant to be this year. No worries, I have plenty of other stuff to wear.

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