AG, interesting that you ask that question. I read recently that it should be 80-20. But as you know, I don't like generalizations ( which is why I didn't like Nina Garcia's 100 things every woman should own ). I think that it is different for everyone. Suz brought up a really good point about getting bored. Maybe that means tilting toward 50-50. Maybe 30-70. I don't know.
I had to divide it up into 3 parts. I realized that essentials and statements didn't work as descriptors for me and what I wanted. And for some reason this has become very important in how I look at my wardrobe. I can't explain why but it just makes me feel so much more secure ( if you will ) in knowing that I got everything covered. I have no problem getting dress in a way that I like and that functions : I find myself no longer standing in front of my clothes and wondering what to wear ( " Well, that is ok...but I have never really liked that color." " That top really only looks good with those pants..but where are those pants ? " ) I also have plenty of what I like to wear : essentials in neurtal colors ( Elly touched upon this when she said that she loves her essentials. )
So, I really need 3 main capsules :
Essentials 70%
Expanders/add ons 15%
Statements 15 %
For me, the essentials is the largest capsule. my expanders and statements are like the sprinkles on a white frosted cake. I like the frosting showing a lot. You on the other hand my work in a somewhat reverse manner to me :
Statements - more sprinkles because you love sprinkles
Expanders/add-ons - to me , like your sweatshirt. Functional, cute
Essentials - a little frosting to glue the sprinkles together because you like less frosting because that is the only thing that the frosting is good for.