Those who have had clothes custom-made - YouLookFab Forum

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Those who have had clothes custom-made

catgirl

Veteran

How do you do it? In other words, how much time did it take? How did you find the fabrics, work out the design, do the fitting, etc.? I feel like the effort involved would take more time than I have, but there are certain items that I have an exact idea of what I want. Specifically, a cropped menswear vest. Have been hunting for the right one all my life, on and off.

I've not gotten very far with my custom suit idea because there's no fabric here in town, and the whole ordering process for swatches to be mailed (and the postage costs - no one will mail swatches for free!) is so boring and will eat up half my budget.

Any help welcomed!

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14 replies

Latest reply was from

Meredith1953

Veteran

I can only dream about having ANYTHING custom made! Hope you get some answers!

fern

Veteran

I have had a top made off Etsy & it fit exactly to my measurements, but I didn't get a swatch ahead of time & wouldn't have known anyway how the fabric would feel as a sewn piece. I didn't wear it.

Vix has had such a good experience with her local seamstress - you can PM her if she doesn't see this thread.

Gaylene

Veteran

OK, I'm a bit hesitant about throwing a curve here, but I'd be cautious about having something custom made for the first time. Regardless of how talented your dressmaker or tailor is, there is a good chance that the final result might not live up to your expectations.

Anyone who has designed and created a garment knows that it is rare when the final result corresponds exactly to the initial vision. Tailored garments are especially tricky since "perfect fit" can have such a variable meaning.

Before I'd commit to anything time consuming or expensive such as a tailored suit, I'd definitely go for a trial run with something simpler and less costly like a vest. Having something custom made is risky; after all, you won't be able to return it if you decide it just doesn't work for you.

Vix

Veteran

Hi Una --

As Fern mentioned and I think you know, I've had ~ 10 pieces custom made (with more adjusted/altered to my specs during the production phase). All have been relatively basic.

It's hard to answer your questions since I've worked with different people and they all had their own process, but I can share my experience(s).

Surprisingly, some of the items I would have thought would be easy (a pencil skirt, a sheath dress, a shift) required more "fine-tuning" fittings than I would have thought.

Based on what I've read of your posts -- while you're waiting for something etc -- you will probably need to dredge up some patience if you enter this world, ha! [<-- do as I say not as I do]

I like the idea of you starting with a cropped menswear vest before moving onto a custom suit. I would think your sewist would either work off a pattern that you would probably have to source or have the know-how to create a vest. Maybe she works it out in muslin first before putting it together in fabric, maybe not.

Either way she might have to adjust armholes, side fit etc as well as chopping it to where you want. You two should definitely discuss the amount of ease you want in your clothes so you don't end up with a too-close-to-the-body fit for your specific preferences.

I buy my fabric in person since I am really picky about color and feel. Have you tried to find out who might be selling "off the grid" fabric locally? I'd investigate that option or roadtrip before doing the online thing. Drycleaners and general alterations places tend to know a lot.;)

** end pt 1 **

Vix

Veteran

** con't **

Sorry for the novel!

1) As said, I buy fabric in person due to severe pickiness. [Unlike many sewers, I don't stockpile much fabric -- I try to have no more than about $50 of fabric waiting for a project -- and sometimes fabric's sat for a year.]

It can definitely be an in-person timesuck to look for fabric -- especially when I leave empty-handed. Ditto for fittings; if your schedule is less than flexible, look for someone who will fit nights and/or weekends.

[When a sewist I've used frequently changed her hours, the PITA quotient went way up for me.]

I really enjoy much of process, though, and we're talking once every several months or so. When I think about all the #*$@ hours I waste hunting online or in person (or shipping things back) I calm down and decide I have the time to spend looking and then doing the fitting stuff.

Sometimes I fall in love with a fabric and buy it, then decide what I want made based on the fabric's qualities; other times I am seeking a fabric for a specific project. If the latter I get a fabric estimate from my sewist and generally add a 1/2 yard to it. Murphy's Law etc.

2) Generally, I go in with pretty definite ideas about certain design details (seaming, necklines, sleeve type, etc) and then get asked about even more -- yikes! I find I often discuss options using their expertise as a guide.

As with hair discussions, go in with as many photos as you can find that relate to what you want!

None of my projects have involved a pattern per se -- either the sewists were starting from patterns they had (sheath dress, knit sweater tops), basing the item on something I'd brought in, or creating via draping and pinning.

[I'm not saying this is ideal, mind, just how it's worked for me!]

I try to treat my sewist the way I like to be treated at work. By being as clear as possible about my likes/dislikes or a must-have then saying, "I trust your eye/creativity," I haven't always ended up with something I envisioned -- but I've ended up enjoying the result.

Whew. You see why I keep a lot of this on my blog vs boring YLFers, ha!

Hope some of it helps you see how the custom-but-not-couture process worked for me -- at prices in line with or cheaper than your basic chain stores like Ann Taylor, B Republic, Nordstrom house brand, etc.

Below are a few projects with what I remember....

Photo 1: Peacock Print Silk Multi-Way Dress -- My fabric and based on a blouse I brought my sewist. One fitting since we were deliberately narrowing width and had to play with hem length given my desire to wear dress back/front. However, delay due to her (much-appreciated) desire to talk through print placement with me before chopping.

Wool Jersey Jacket -- My fabric. I think 2 fittings -- sewist had made lots of tailored jackets but because this was knit and had a cutaway hem we had to finesse small details.

Patterned Cardiwrap + Purple Wool Sheath Her fabric for wrap, mine for dress. IIRC 1 for the cardi 2 for the sheath. 1st sheath fitting zipper wasn't in and neckline and hem had to be finessed. Can't remember why we needed 2nd one -- maybe neckline was still too shallow once zipper was in.

Strawberry Ripple Knit Shell -- My fabric. 1 fitting, easy thanks to knit. Had to finesse how low back dropped at 1st fitting (works with regular bra) so had to pick it up after decision made.

Donna Summer Faux-Wrap Sarong (lined) --Her fabric. 2 fittings (maybe 3). This was more complicated than my sewist had thought and in retrospect we agreed I should have found a pattern to adapt vs draping it on me.

I know the last fitting was mostly to get the rouching right where I wanted it and that this dress gets me loads of compliments when I wear it.

Ultimate PMS Skirt -- My fabric, with her black jersey underlining. 1 fitting for hip fit/hem (due to my straight-waistedness, I have to see where I want the waist to sit before calling out hem length).

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catgirl

Veteran

Vix, you are awesome. I feel like I should send you flowers for all this info. I have quite an exact idea of what I want for a vest, so that may be the place to start. Fabric is proving to be the hardest part, and the road trip only goes so far in Alaska! I'm going to print out your advice and keep it with me as I go about this process. As you and Gaylene have said, starting out with a single piece seems to make the most sense.

THANK YOU! And every one of your pieces is exquisite on you.

Vix

Veteran

Hi AG --

I should probably send *you* the flowers for wading through!

Had a slightly left-field thought since you are so lucky at finding high-quality thrift stuff -- for the cropped vest, what able asking your sewist to cut down a (TBD) menswear find?

[Buttonholes would be on the "wrong" side for a lady, but maybe that would be a detail you'd get a kick out of having.]

Re the larger question of finding fabric: Guess it's no more Hawaii trips, only Seattle or Portland....

Gaylene

Veteran

Just to follow up on Vix's idea-- maybe thrift a man's suit jacket for material to make a vest?

annagybe

(website)

Veteran

I have three custom items. A very dressy silk vest and skirt I had custom made by a Hungarian designer in Budapest. It is now too big, but paid a small fortune for it. I had one appointment taking my initial measurements and then a separate fitting on me. It is truly gorgeous and the closest I ever will come to couture. I remember having to stand for so long in the fitting session that me feet began to hurt.
The second item is this dress in black
http://www.etsy.com/listing/99.....e-to-order
The designer is based in Portland, OR. I went to her studio and measured almost every part of me. She then mailed the dress for me. I did ask her to make the skirt more pencil like than her designed a-line.

teeandcee

My mom has sewn for me all my life and patience-patience-patience is the key.

Great idea on thrifting a giant man's suit to use for your material. This is exactly what I'd do as I too live in an area where material is hard to come by and I get tired thinking about swatches and mailings and all that.

Vix

Veteran

Annagybe --

What a gorgeous and dress -- love the dimension!

AG --

Maybe I spoke too soon about having to curtail your Hawaii trips if you're looking for fabric.

Dawn of Two On, Two Off (http://twoontwooff.blogspot.com) is an Alaskan blogger/home sewist and I did a quick search of her archives. Looks like Fabric Mart (HI) had lots of great garment fabrics -- not sure which island she was on, but you could always contact her or investigate.

More importantly, I knew Dawn mail-ordered lots of her fabric but she's also had luck at Seams Like Home in Anchorage. Can't remember if you've gone there/are close to there...but may be worth letting them know what you are hunting for:

http://www.akseams.com/

[And sign up for any newsletter/e-updates they have -- if they are like other fabric stores that's how you score the coupons.]

catgirl

Veteran

Vix, you are psychic! I went thrifting on Saturday, found a grey herringbone menswear vest, and am going to have a tailor crop it to my sweet spot length! I would do it myself but it's lined and wool and I don't want to mess it up. If it works I will have a workaround and can look for more such finds.

YAY!

And I will be in Hawaii in two weeks to hunt down more fabric options in between surfing and eating kalua pig.

Vix

Veteran

AG --

Wow, if only I could make money off my psychic abilities.

Glad you found something that seems like a promising start toward your cropped vest dream -- let us know how your project turns out!

Anonymous

I ordered a custom-made dress from Etsy for my DD to wear to prom. It fit perfectly, looked fab, and was different than what the other girls wore. She didn't want to wear the typical prom dress.