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ETA: Pics added at end | Sewist / seamstress advice needed

Vix

Veteran

Hoping some of the MANY talented sewist / seamstresses on YLF are around. I know I saw Vildy posting this weekend.

So...after years of looking I finally found a dress in a deep blue-green *but* from the back I'm getting even worse issues than what this stock photos shows. Kind of like a kangaroo pouch back there.

My tailor is excellent but I generally give him direction (especially as he's more a men's suit expert).

If I keep it this dress needs to be a 10 as it will be one of my few spring/summer purchases. While yes I have tunics to toss over to funk it up it needs to be able to stand on its own -- I don't want to be thinking about caboose zone wrinkles.

Q:

Is this something taking it in on the sides will help? Darts? It fits pretty well in the front without a lot of room to spare so I don't want to jack that up and get it too tight there.

Thx in advance for any expertise you can provide!

Alt 1: return, move on
Alt 2: Buy-a-rear padding

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Dressing

16 replies

Latest reply was from Vix

Anonymous

Reach out to Lynn. She is your resource.

Kathie

Veteran

First, I have that dress, in a teal blue, and love it! I routinely get compliments, and a couple of my friends have bought it in different colors, because it’s washable and has pockets. So, I’m definitely in favor of seeing if you can alter it. I’d try pinning the center back seam, to see if that would fix the issue. If so, that would be an easy alteration. If pinning that seam causes problems elsewhere, then return.

aloha emily

Taking in the side seams would likely make the front pull, which wouldn’t be good. A well placed dart on either side of center back could help. Great idea to try pinning the darts or even hand basting them in before taking the tags off. If the basted darts solve the problem, great! If not, it’s easy to take out the stitching and return.

Suzanimal

I'm with aloha emily. Pin darts in the back and if that doesn't look good, I'd return it.

Vix

Veteran

Thank you so much Sterling, Kathie, Aloha Emily, and Suzanimal.

From googling with different terms I think this is a combo of my short waist (but long torso), fuller bust, and where/how the trunk's junk sits!

As much as I want this dress to work, I'm not going to pay to have the whole thing deconstructed; however, I will see if a few minor alts can save the day.

Kathie -- thanks also for weighing in as well as an owner of this dress. It seems like it's an easy fit for so many!

I have bought/returned a few MMLF styles that didn't work but got a chance to do a pop-up and try on a dozen or so. My standard pattern alts (done by others for me, not by me!) are FBA and adjusting for the flatter hips/short waist and boy could I see how that played out with a lot of their cuts. Thought the Big E was a winner but...TBD.

I did find a few that worked and am gearing up for photos. Of course they're the less-basic / less-flexible styles!

Kathie

Veteran

Can't wait to see your pics! I've acquired a fair amount of MM.LaFleur for my work wardrobe- 4 dresses, 4 tops, 2 sweaters, 2 pairs of pants, 2 belts, a jacket and a scarf. They do pop-ups in my city 2-3 times/year, and I have a lot more success with that, than with ordering on-line.

Mary Beth (formerly LBD)

(website)

Veteran

Oooh, I can't wait to see this! I hope it works out for you!

Vix

Veteran

Hi again Kathie --

Lucky you -- have you shared photos? [I should go look for myself!] I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who has better luck in-person.

The dress in question is actually a re-order (same color and size) as the first one they sent didn't fit as well as the pop-up model -- it was cut much snugger in the bust and sleeve. Though I was losing it but tried it on with same underpinnings and nope. Downside of small-batch production, I guess.

I'm not really their target customer re price point so I have a lot of checkboxes for each piece. But I will save for stuff I love and can keep around. A lot of the seaming they use is similar to custom pieces I had done in the past and I'm a sucker for it!

LBD -- Thanks! The color is one of my best and I have so many scarves etc that would work with it I have to really keep Head vs Heart in mind. Know you love color-color so feel my push-pull!

We've somehow gone from spring to snow so my black and grey clothing suddenly doesn't seem too off-season. Hope all the poor blossoms make it through....

Kathie

Veteran

First one is the Arbus sweater, peaking out from my coat. I wear it with a high-waisted pencil skirt in a tweedy blue. Second is the black Foster pants, which I also have in dark blue. I’ve been super pleased with the quality relative to the price point. Almost all my pieces are washable, and I love saving on dry cleaning.

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Vildy

Veteran

I think it's a lower rear and possibly flatter rear, maybe a slight swayback, too? You can't take in the sides because you'll throw off the front fit. Well, here's a different suggestion. The tailor can put in a back waist seam, tapering from very little at the sides. Then he can lift the top of the skirt fabric some and at the same time put in some back waist darts to further shape. It's not that complicated. You can't just make darts because you'll get pooching above the darts. The other way, you get a smooth custom fit.

ETA: It could be that both you and the dress model have a rear placed lower than the pattern allows for *and* clothing rarely allows enough seam allowance anymore to simply let it out and cause that poochy fabric to fall and smooth out. IOW, your rear or hips may be taking up more room than the pattern was cut for.

Lynn

Veteran

Vix- the folds in the photo appear to be essentially unstitched darts. If your folds are similar vertical folds try pinning vertical darts on either side of center back. If the folds are more horizontal they are likely related to a sway back and the excess might be able to be removed at the yoke seam above the waist.

Taking in the side seams will not resolve these folds and might make them worse.

Hope that helps.

Vix

Veteran

Hi all -- Many thanks for the additional thoughts, Vildy and Lynn, since this is not an uncommon fit situation for me.

Kathie, you're wearing pants? I barely noticed given that very cool jacket/blazer! Thx for the report on the Fosters.

Photo 1: pic of what's happening on my actual body with the dress in stock photo. The back was worse in the next size up so I think this fit is just not for me.

Photo 2: "less practical" style I also fell in love with in person and ordered. While it's not 100% my best neckline/shoulder situation, I know I *could* get it tailored to a narrow V and the off-the-rack fit is currently 95% by my standards.

Hard to see in my bad pics but the back of this one has a wide waistband while the green one has no waist seam.

[Pics just snapped for fit check, would not style as-is! IRL color isn't as bright and I'm not as orange.]

I've decided not to pursue tailoring the green dress as:

side view pic I'm not sharing made me see I was also getting bust flattening (the reason I sent other another style back last year)

I'd rather put the money toward something that excites me (deep purple-blue dress) and fuss a bit with how to deal with the lack of sleeves than fuss about the fit with the green dress. TBH the color and care drew me to the green one and the price point is high enough that I don't feel like throwing more money at it.

Photo 3: Since I had the camera out albeit with my usual terrible "stand in a hole due to bad lighting" situation...

snapped my new knit tank dress with an obi-style tie one can wear front or back (if one doesn't mind the tail look!) It's an easy-breezy style I'm looking forward to wearing when it's not snowing out. Freezing in all these shots!

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Suz

(website)

Veteran

Blouse twin!!

Gosh, that colour would have been extraordinary on you...really love it. It almost looks in that photo as if they have made the dress that way on purpose, to fold into a V above the rear....hmmm.

Really love the other dress on you, too. You'll figure out what to do about sleeves no problem -- the fit looks great.

Kathie

Veteran

Totally agree, send the Etsuko back. The Taylor looks great on you, though! Too funny about the Fosters. My mom found the red leather jacket years ago, on a fabulous sale. The fit is not perfect through the bust, but, I still love wearing it- definitely a statement piece for me!

Lynn

Veteran

Vix I think you made a really good decision to return the dress. It is difficult to tell in the picture but something is off with the 2 V like folds. I don't think this could have been easily altered. The smaller horizontal folds above the V folds look like a typical swayback (a more inward curve to the spine which causes to much fabric in the lower back area) Sometimes if the waist or hips are to snug a garment will ride up and cause similar folds. BTW to alter for a swayback in an already finished garment you need a horizontal seam in the back (waist or yoke seam). But those V folds are just weird.

Vix

Veteran

Thanks for the reinforcement to send the green dress back -- you'd think it would be easy but as you say Suz, the color is one of my best. ps I just had "our" blouse chopped to below the bust...you should see it on the hanger omg.

Lynn have I stumped even you? Maybe I'll keep it and have the folds altered into back side pockets haha?

Kathie -- Clearly I'm a sucker for a statement and for random finds. Your mom done good!