I've strayed pretty far from my own goal of a moderate, if not minimalist wardrobe. Partly due to not being able to replace the 'avoidables' fast enough and partly from the challenge of finding suitable partners for 'beloved orphans', I find I have a lot more *stuff* than I want. So I'm clearly not the best person to advise...
...but I did think of this: I like my wardrobe most when I travel. And that enforces a sort of minimalism already! Yes, my at-home climactic and on-road challenges require some addition of extra-sturdy clothes, shoes and gear, but on the whole, if all my closet behaved the way my suitcase closet does, I'd be a very happy woman. Now, I don't usually buy my colour schemes, but I often pack by the kind of scheme Vildy mentions --- two equal value colours and a neutral. Sometimes, for a longer trip, I add a second neutral. So say the colours are red and dark blue (navy and neighbours) or teal, and the neutrals are dark chocolate and charcoal. What's interesting, though, is I often use a couple of shades of my 'colours' --- so a darker cherry and a pure red, a lighter and a darker teal etc. And I always add a splash of white or cream.
In terms of numbers, I find I take tops = number of days plus 3-4 for a longer trip (never longer than a fortnight), and contrary to the usual blogosphere rules, at least 4 sets of bottoms (including a pair of jeans, a pair of trousers or two, and a skirt or two) and sometimes as many as 6 to allow for dressier eveningwear. The tops include at least a couple of layering T-shirts, plus a mix of knits and wovens.
Add 3 pairs of shoes at least (one dressy, two for long days walking to rotate), sometimes, 4.
Add 3 bags: one large tote for day use that can double as 'personal item' of some size to stuff extras and souvenirs into; a small bag or clutch for evening; and an extra for shopping or carrying documents and things people love to hand you.
Also, depending on climate, add 2 jackets/blazers/cardigans and 2 coats (winter wool and rain parka).
A handful of scarf and a pouch of jewellery. Two pairs of tights and leggings, two
So I guess for me this is enough variety before I need to do laundry and before I get outright bored.
What is interesting to me is that I *don't* actually end up with an all tops with all bottoms kind of mix. Often a top will at best work with 2 bottoms --- and that's just fine! It's still plenty of variety --- and me, I'm pretty easily bored even though I stick fast to my favourites for repeat wears. What I *do* stress about is:
(a) comfort --- I absolutely refuse to be in restrictive garments for travelling
(b) my favourite silhouettes --- could be wide-legged pants and a tailored shirt/blouse; could be leggings and a short dress or tunic; a pencil skirt, knee-length or maxi, and tank and jacket; jeans and drapey or swingy knit top...
I guess this is my long-winded way of suggesting you start with your comfort zones (think of your lifestyle as well as how you like to move, sit, walk personally; what silhouettes and textiles and textures you're really cosy in)... and take it from there. Stylistically, you might not be certain yet of the look you want --- but you might find your most *comfy* silhouettes dictate your style direction to an extent. Someone who likes A-lines and smocks is unlikely to go too flapper, say...
And this doesn't mean you leave no room for play. You *can* add extras from your 40% holding zone. But first, find different ways to create that comfy silhouette, in just four colours (or any arbitrary number that appeals, even just two or three) --- and then, when they all have different vibes, put them together to see what felt best or looks most like you or most attractive to you at this time.
Just an idea that I hope might help. Either way, I want to state that people like you and Kirti and Meredith already show us how much excitement can be found in fewer pieces, every time you post. You're already way ahead of the rest of us --- so take heart! With your smaller closet size, I bet you have fewer mistakes to regret as well.
