Proportions & body type exercise

Kari

I saw that the Academichic girls are starting a new Fashion 101 series on proportion and body type. I'm excited to see their style modules, but I'm also intrigued by the fact that each girl took a frontal and profile silhouette (Photoshopped into dark-on-light shadows.)
http://www.academichic.com/200.....oportions/
It was interesting to see the differences between each girl that I had never noticed simply from seeing their photos, and I thought I'd try this exercise on myself as well.

(I did mine the old-fashioned way: took a picture and traced over it with paper. I don't have any fancy image editors. Does anyone else plan to try this?)

Much like photographing my outfits, tracing my body outlines helped me see my shape a lot more objectively than when I look in the mirror (expecially because it obliterates shadows or 3-d shapes, both flattering and unflattering.) For some reason I can see my flaws without beating myself up for them. I knew all of these things before, but they stand out much more clearly in silhouette.

1. Though I'm definitely an hourglass, I have a funny shape - I'm both short-waisted AND short-legged. The longest and widest part of my torso is all in my tummy and hips below my natural waist. Maybe this is why I have so much trouble following some of the tips for hourglasses - such as having so much difficulty with wrap dresses (I've hardly found any that worked on me) and why I can't carry off any volume on top. Is there anything I can do to elongate my waist without making my legs look shorter? And vice-versa?
(Edited to add: I've just re-read the Hourglass and Short-Waisted tips, but I'm not sure how to dress to correct both of these issues.)

2. I am noticeably crooked straight-on. You can definitely see that one of my shoulders slopes lower and one of my hips is higher than the other. This makes my breasts crooked too, and one side of my natural waist shorter than the other. Clothes can usually hide this.

3. I'm mostly comfortable with my curves. The extra weight around my midsection is visible, but less noticeable than I thought it was. I'd like to be a bit more whittled in places than I am, and I still wish I could carry off trendy styles (skinny jeans, tunics, etc.) with more ease, but overall I'm happy with what I see.

16 years ago

Body Type

69 replies

Latest reply was from ImogenL

Lee Hovey

Active Member

Kari: I deifnitely plan to try this, I thought it was awesome what they did and honestly though that was a clipart imagine of sillouettes at first, until I saw their side shots and saw the cute little preggo belly and was like "What a minute"

Anyway, I think it would also be neat to compare sillouettes with others to find others who have a similar shape, so you can see how THEY dress their shape and see the shape more objectively.

16 years ago

Kristen

(website)

Veteran

Oh, this is VERY interesting! Thanks for the tip; I don't know how I missed that post in my Google Reader. I'll have to try it out for myself; I know my body type hasn't changed with my weight loss, but everything fits so differently on me now I really don't know what kind of pieces to look for anymore.

16 years ago

Maya

Veteran

Kari, I feel like your description of yourself could be written by me, other than the short legs thing.

To be honest, I do not follow hourglass rules as none of them seem to apply to me. I have started exclusively following the apple rules. You might not be an apple but at least you'll know more about how to create the illusion of a waist when you don't have much of one. Hourglass advice is always focused on the tiny waist, tiny waist, tiny waist! It's so annoying. My personal conclusion is that you can't really be an hourglass without a proportionately small waist, which includes the lower tummy too. I know I'm alone on that but honestly, how I don't think it's just having equal hips and shoulders. That much information doesn't help me determine how I should dress.

I remember in high school I had to be traced for a project and I remember thinking there was something not quite right about my body but I couldn't place what it was. Now I know it's just being shortwaisted. I don't think I have the courage to do it now though, but it's interesting to see and makes body types a lot more clear.

16 years ago

Kari

Veteran

Kendra, I thought the same thing. Also, those girls always dress to flatter their figures so well that I thought they all had the same tall, slim, rectangle shape. It's interesting to realize that though they are all very slender, their body types are quite different.

Kristen, especially with the weight loss it might surprise you to see an outline of your figure today. My guess is that you're quite a bit smaller than you think you are.

Maya, it does sound similar except that I think you have a shorter torso overall (am I remembering this right?) and I am so envious of your long legs. My waist is also not that narrow (I am about 3 or 4 dress sizes up from you.) On days when I'm frustrated, I feel like dressing this body is a tossup in terms of narrowing/emphasizing one part of my body while sacrificing others. I don't have a great sense of how to create proportion, and I get rather confused when I'm trying to figure out which strategies from the Hourglass, Apple, and Short-Waisted cheat sheets apply to me. (I can get away with tucking tops into skirts, and maybe belting, but wrap dresses/tops and tunics are tricky, and I definitely can't wear bias-cut fabric or low-slung belts.) I hope I'll learn more from this series.

16 years ago

anne

Veteran

Maya and Kari, I wonder if you guys would find it helpful to have a look at Imogen's blog (she posts on YLF sometimes) If I am reading her correctly, she makes a distinction between shortwaisted hourglasses, which she calls an 8 shape, and longwaisted which she calls X shape. Here is a link to her posts which have style tips relevant to and 8 shape
http://insideoutstyle.blogspot...../8%20shape

16 years ago

Kari

Veteran

Anne, Imogen's blog is on my list of blogs I check daily-to-weekly. I'd forgot that she makes the distinction between two types of hourglass shapes. Thanks for the reminder!

I'm guessing that I am more likely to be an 8 shape (figure 8 - hah!), but she hasn't yet posted specifically about how to know if you are an 8 shape as opposed to an X shape or what to wear/avoid. I know she's gradually been doing body type posts since fall, so I'll keep an eye out for that upcoming post.

16 years ago

Maya

Veteran

Kari, I am probably shorter-waisted than you. I think I'm shorter-waisted than anyone I know. I really hate it. My legs could be a mile long and I'd trade them in any day for a 28" inseam and a more proportionate top half.

I totally know what you mean about getting confused and not knowing what to emphasize. I often feel like I expend 99% of my energy trying to hide, conceal, minimize, and cover up, and maybe 1% trying to emphasize and spotlight my good features. A hip belt would be great to make my torso appear longer, but would hit at an unflattering point. A turtleneck would look lovely on my dainty long neck, but I can't wear them because of my bust. An empire waist would look marvelous on me, but again, the bust issue. It's so annoying. I can't seem to flatter one part without ruining another.

Hmm, when I read Imogen's blog, I'm inclined to think of myself more as an H. An 8 still seems to assume a tiny, defined waist, which I do not have. As I said, I truly believe this is a cornerstone for hourglasses of all sizes. I like how her body type guide gets so detailed though, and differentiates between a skinny beanpole rectangle (I) and a not-so-skinny H.

After meeting me, Angie revealed that I tend towards an apple, but I am not apply enough to be an O (by Imogen's guide). I'm more inclined to think I'm an apple that tends towards an hourglass than the other way around. Suddenly all my struggles have started to make sense. No wonder trying to dress as an hourglass never worked!

Kari, I think body type is just a starting point, so you'll have to adjust some things. You seem like more of an hourglass than me if you can wear waist belts. There might be a couple of things that don't work but based on your picture posts I'd say that's the most accurate description for you. Emphasizing your waist is definitely something that works for you.

16 years ago

anne

Veteran

Kari,
Imogen does kind of talk about it here http://www.bespokeimage.com.au/body-shape.php, but your right there isn't a "body types explained" post about 8 shapes yet.
I wouldn't quite make it into her x category "The waist is more than 9" smaller than the hips or shoulders" (I'm 28/37) but that's what I'd be closest to in terms of the description of hips/thighs etc http://insideoutstyle.blogspot.....glass.html

Maya since you have actually met Angie you should go with what she says!

I also like Imogen's distinction between H and I. She also once made a reference to an ellipitical body type - wide hips but flat bottom, which hasn't been mentioned again - that intrigued me

I'm not sure I'll do the body silouette thing, interesting though it may be. I am fairly pleased with my body at the moment (still in the baby weight loss honeymoon period) so I don't want to jeopardise that!

16 years ago

ImogenL

(website)

Active Member

Ok - here is my take - you sound like you have a long Rise proportion (which is something you can get in any body shape, which is why body shape is NOT the panacea we all want it to be). This means you might not want to have the waist focus of a longer waisted X/hourglass shape.

Have you taken a photo of yourself from the back and looked at your shape from that angle? It can be quite revealing. For example, my waist is 9" smaller than shoulders/hips, and from the front I look quite curvy, like I would be an hourglass as I have a large bust and that gives me the illusion of curves from the front, but look at my back view and you'll see I"m very straight through the mid section. If I put on a belt or do any sort of waist detail it makes me look very thick. So I'm actually an H/rectangle shape. Also, the large bust shorten is my waist, as there is no way you can keep a G cup as high as a C cup, and by the time fabric goes out to cover them, when it comes back in at the waist it emphasizes my lack of waist.

The difference between a figure 8 and an X/hourglass is the 'high hip', this is where the hip, just below the waist is like a 'shelf' - look at photos of Beyonce and Catherine Zeta Jones in tight dresses. You will see that the maximum weight is actually high up on the hip, rather than on the low hip/thigh which is an X shape.

Thanks for pointing out that I hadn't finished doing all the body shapes - I will do a post this week on an 8 shape.

As your body is crooked, look for asymmetrical detail as this will help to disguise this even more.

I hope this helps. Thanks also for pointing out that I'd not done anything more on the elliptical or round side body shapes.

16 years ago

ImogenL

(website)

Active Member

Anne, I've just done something on the 8 shape - hope it make sense.

16 years ago

anne

Veteran

Imogen - Wow - quick work. Thanks very much. I see now the distinction you were making.

The idea of taking a picture of your back is very interesting. Someone recently posted a picture of their back and you could tell straight away they were an hourglass. I'll try it myself when I get to a camera.

I wasn't trying to hurry you or anything BTW - just was intrigued! But of course you are quite right to warn us that body shape is not a panacea.

16 years ago

ImogenL

(website)

Active Member

I think we can get very distracted by our bust or other body variations (as I call them), things like round or flat bottom, saddlebags, and full upper arms. I don't believe that these are part of your body shape, but an added extra to spice it all up a bit!

This is why it's so hard to make really general rules, and why everyone finds it all so confusing, as bodies are not 'hard and fast' !

No worries, it was an oversight and I'm pleased that you pointed it out!

16 years ago

anne

Veteran

And this finally provoked me to work out how to leave a comment on your blog! Wasn't that hard! ( I had previously thought you needed to have a blog yourself)

16 years ago

crwilson

Veteran

Maya - I'm really short waisted, too, with a large bust. Do you have particular stores that you shop? I think I've mentioned before that we have similar bodies. I share your frustration with finding clothes that fit and flatter. I swear that it's impossible to find things that actually fit, let alone that actually do all of the things that they're supposed to do (add definition to the waist, provide color, no cap sleeves, no bulky, etc. etc. etc.)

I also feel like dressing like an hourglass doesn't always work for me, but I'm going to keep trying for now since I'm new at it and probably haven't given it a fair chance. I always feel like I'm boxy, which would make me more of an H, I think. But, when I posted pictures, everyone told me that I was not, in fact, boxy, so that may be just a bit of body dysmorphia creeping in. This whole body shape thing is so difficult on so many levels!

btw, Imogen - I love your blog and read it regularly. I love the outfits you put together! I'm going to have to try taking a picture from the back.

Christine

16 years ago

shiny

Veteran

Interesting! By Imogen's definitions, I am an H. And the recommendations on how to dress an H are ones I instinctively use over and over again. I always thought a rectangle had to be slim and boyish like a model. It makes sense to me, this difference between and I and an H type.

Kari - the crookedness you describe worries me. This is very likely not something you were born with but rather something that you acquired over time. The shoulder thing can be caused by carrying a heavy handbag always on the same side, or a toddler on your hip. The hip thing can be caused by exercising on uneven roads, and by perpetually crossing your legs all the time.

This sort of thing can set you up for misery down the road - trust me, I've been there, done that!! Bunions, strained muscles, lower back problems, shoulder pain, neck pain.... even pelvis fractures - yikes!!

I urge you to take up yoga! It will help gently straighten you out and even you out, back to your normal posture.

I was told I was born with a leg length discrepancy and needed to wear orthotics to correct my uneven hips. However, after getting into yoga (and I'm not even that flexible), the discrepancy disappeared completely, as did the bunions, lower back pain, and injuries I kept getting when running. I actually need to get more focused on the yoga again, as I've noticed lately one hip is creeping up again. I can always tell because my jeans start dragging on one side only.

16 years ago

Maya

Veteran

I second the idea of yoga. I have taken it up again to try and loosen up my shoulders, and hopefully get them to straighten out and not slope down so much. I don't know if it will work or not but I can't believe how tight they are.

Crwilson, I also thought we had similar body types, but you don't seem to have my wonderful pooch. At its smallest, my waist is 27"...but just a couple inches down from there, it balloons into 32"...only 3" smaller than my hips. Another reason I'm doing yoga (and other stuff). I don't have any shops I prefer when it comes to fit. I just wear knits most of the time because they stretch. Although Tanya gave me some New York & Co woven tops that I really liked. They had a lot of stretch and seemed to have more room in the bust area, though one of them still pulled a bit.

I just want to declare that my issues are mine alone, and I don't think anyone else who has a similar body type is "abnormal" or unattractive in any way. I just think it's weird for me because I am exceptionally small-boned.

16 years ago

Tanya

Veteran

Maya, I hope you can still wear those NY&Co tops. If not, feel free to pass them on to someone else.

I find this body type discussion fascinating ( this topic really interests me). I checked out Imogen's types and I am 100 % X shape according to her classification. Every single details fits, including the long waist and carrying my weight in my thighs. Interestingly, she says that my body type is best suited by flared/A line type skirts, which I like, but I like pencils even more.

I am curious to see what Academic chic girls come up with.

16 years ago

Kari

Veteran

Wow, thank you ladies for jumping in the discussion. It's interesting to read about your own body type distinctions, and I can't tell you all how much I appreciate your help!

Imogen, thank you so much for posting the "8 shape" guidelines and for offering so many suggestions for determining my shape. I never thought of doing a photograph/silhouette from the back, but it makes sense to examine your actual torso shape without breasts getting in the way. (I agree with your point - when they are above a certain size they can only be hoisted up so far, and mine are naturally positioned a bit low on my torso anyway, so there's not much else I can do!)

Viewed from the back, I am still hourglassy but with a longer waist. My underbust measurement is slightly larger than my natural waist but my rib cage slants upwards. I definitely have the high "hip shelf" Imogen describes.

That's an interesting point about being long in the rise. This figure challenge makes finding pants and jeans really tricky - if I were to get pants that actually went up to my natural waist, the rise would be something like 13" and would look ridiculously frumpy and unflattering. Super low-rise pants don't work because they sit far below my hip-bone and accentuate my widest part. I usually look for mid-rise pants that have a bit of stretch in the waistband. When I have some give in the fabric I'm more likely to be able to get a good fit when the waistband hits me at mid-hip. If I go with a wide waistband, a la Imogen's suggestion, I have to make sure that the waistband has more structure - otherwise it tends to roll down throughout the day.

I also notice that I have to be careful about shirt length - many tops are too short for me, but if I buy a shirt that is long through the hips (like Tanya often wears), they are too big in the middle and too tight in the hips. Lots of challenges. Some days I'm tempted to trade in all of my pants for pencil skirts!

16 years ago

Maya

Veteran

No way Tanya I love those tops. I can't think you enough for them. They are the sort of thing I would have never considered trying on myself but I'm very glad I did.

The only one that pulls is the red buttondown (which you saw when I tried it on), but I'll just leave it unbuttoned and wear a cami under it. No big deal. I like buttondowns more that way anyway.

Kari, just out of curiosity, what rise are you most comfortable with? My "natural waist" rise is only 11" and I have such a hard time finding a high enough rise. 13" is quite high. My favorite jeans are 10" but 11" would be great because then I could tuck in my tops. I love that look. It's so classy.

16 years ago

Kari

Veteran

Shiny, RE: crookedness, thank you for your concern. Fortunately, this is only something I've noticed in the last 3-4 years. It's just cosmetic at this point and not causing any discomfort.

I'm guessing it's probably some muscle issue I've created by favoring a certain side when I curl up on the chair or lie in bed. It could be made worse by spending so much time at work in front of the computer. I do try to "rotate" sides now that I'm aware of being crooked, but it hasn't made much of a difference. I definitely notice the pant length issue, though - one leg of my pants is always slightly more frayed at the hem than the other due to dragging on the ground.

That's awesome that yoga has alleviated so many of these issues for you (pelvic fractures - yikes!) I dance regularly (good posture is essential) and take a fitness class with a large focus on alignment, but probably should take up yoga and swimming again. It wouldn't hurt, anyway.

16 years ago

Kari

Veteran

Maya, I must have just missed your reply. My best-fitting pants all have about an 8-9" rise. The waistband hits me about 2-3" below bellybutton and 4-5" below my natural waist.

16 years ago

ImogenL

(website)

Active Member

I'm crooked - from sitting on my foot through school. I have to visit the chiropractor regularly to straighten me out!

Some X shapes look good in pencil skirts, but not all - it kind of depends on the heaviness and shape of the thighs. If it works for you absolutely go for it!

16 years ago

Kari

Veteran

Yikes, that will teach me to stop sitting with one leg curled under when I'm lounging in front of my computer!

16 years ago

anne

Veteran

I do that ALL the time too. But I have scoliosis ( only mildly) and I think that tucking my leg under is probably making it more comforatable for my back.

16 years ago

ImogenL

(website)

Active Member

Anne - tucking under makes my scoliosis/back more comfortable, but it exacerbates the problem! Seeing the chiro has made the biggest difference for me, and when my spine is aligned, it actually becomes uncomfortable to sit on my foot!

16 years ago

Kari

Veteran

This is why I migrated to a director's chair for my desk at home. If I curl up on my side or with one foot under me (like I do all the time in a more solid chair) I'm apt to lose my balance and tip over.

16 years ago

JewelryGirl

Active Member

Kari, Did you do anything special when you took your picture? I would imagine simple cami, form fitting pants? Then, simply traced over the silhouette? I think I would like to try this...They have an update today also - I need to read more! I'm wondering if I'm longer between my bust & hips. Shirts always seem shorter on me. Maybe I'm just not used to shopping for longer one's. I'll be curious to learn though!

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16 years ago

JewelryGirl

Active Member

Ok ladies, I'm on Imogen's site. http://www.bespokeimage.com.au/body-shape.php Silly question but HOW DO I MEASURE MY SHOULDERS? I mean is it right at your shoulder - top of chest?

I think I might be long waisted or borderline anyway...if I measured it right I'm about 10 or 11 cm. Gosh, this stuff could be really helpful to know. Maybe I'm not a pear but more of an X with pear tendencies or vice versa (I need to go back & re-read Angie's stuff on it now too)...

16 years ago

Kari

Veteran

JewelryGirl, I actually did this in my skivvies - I didn't have any pants that were form-fitting enough all the way through the leg. I took a pic with a timer/tripod in profile and from the front (and then at Imogen's suggestion, tried one from the back as well). Then I traced over the pic.

Thanks for pointing out the update today. So interesting to see what insecurities each of us has about our bodies! The Academichic girls dress their bodies so well that I would never have known about their "discomfort areas" if they hadn't begun this series. I'm interested to see what they do this week.

16 years ago

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