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Le Smoking, and other iconic looks - ?

Mary Beth (formerly LBD)

(website)

Veteran

With all the lively discussion about Le Smoking in Gryffin’s thread...

https://youlookfab.com/welookf.....le-smoking

... my curiosity is piqued...

1). What specifically makes a suit “Le Smoking”, as opposed to just another black suit? I see the sleekness and minimalism, and the understated sexiness, but I can’t quite put my finger on what keeps this from being a potentially frumpy pantsuit - which is usually what happens to me, in a pantsuit.

2). Now I’m thinking about other “Iconic” looks for the holidays. Marlene Dietrich in her tuxedo - which seems like a trickier look to recapture. Or Audrey Hepburn, in Breakfast At Tiffany’s. What other iconic looks come to mind for you?

Interesting thing I just noticed, Audrey had three or four different necklaces, in various publicity photos vs. the film itself. And Dietrich has different accessories in different still photos, including a huge white floral boutonnière.

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Dressing

19 replies

Latest reply was from Syrie

rachylou

Veteran

Well, I don’t suppose it’s silk lapels that make Le Smoking the Le Smoking. As to what makes it not frumpy... that’s harder. Unless one is willowy, which I’m not, I think a slinky fabric helps...

Cardiff girl

Veteran

To me a le smoking suit is specifically one with a tuxedo jacket.An ordinary black jacket doesn’t cut it in this case.The cut is obviously important ,like all simple looks if the silhouette isn’t right it doesn’t work.l think that the trousers can be cigarette pants or wide legs but again beautifully cut.I do think that it’s a difficult look to pull off if you are a very curvy girl as this is a very masculine look,having said that a girl in men’s clothing can be very alluring.

Stagiaire Fash

Veteran

Cardiff, is “smoking” used as a synonym for tuxedo in the UK? It is the only word for tux I know in German. When I read “le smoking” I immediately went to tux

Jessikams

(website)

Veteran

I have exactly this same question. Each time I’ve tried to do “sexy le smoking,” I end up looking “frumpy pantsuit”. I suspect the material of the suit is important— something touchable like satin or velvet is better than standard crepe. And it seems the jacket should be narrow and long? Maybe?

Usually it is made sexier by a very low cut shirt, or no shirt at all. But I’m not comfortable with that, unless for a very formal date night I guess.

Bijou

Veteran

LBD - you make a very good point, I feel like this about Le Smoking too. Whilst I would love to look like an elegant and cool french girl in an amazingly well cut tux I am not sure I have the right body shape or budget to pull it off.

This is one garment where construction and fabrication really matter. If one wants to do this, it is an investment in a wonderful suit because as much as I love my rather cheap but chic Zara one button blazer, Le Smoking it is not. In finds is my jacket, worn by a model - the photo is a designer inspired Le Smoking and it is spectacular!

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Janet

(website)

Veteran

I've never even attempted any of those "iconic" looks because I just don't feel like I have the right body type or style to pull them off -- I think you need to be the kind of person who can rock bright red lipstick, which I most definitely cannot.

Laura (rhubarbgirl)

(website)

Veteran

I agree, tuxedo rather than just a black suit, and some of the 'edge/sexiness' in years gone by was likely the androgyny of it. Nowadays, not so edgy for women to wear pants, even to a formal event...

gryffin

Veteran

I have tuxedo jackets, but I pull off the look with the VB suit. I am a slim rectangle - prerequisites of a sexy jacket - fit!! Low stance, one button, must be fitted in the waist, cutaway styling helps, arms must be streamlined and cut high, narrow lapels or shawl collar, fabrication should be luxe, pants must fit well. I personally prefer a longer 29-31 " jacket. I prefer a narrow cigarette pant, ankle cropped to showcase a shoe or bootie, no scrunch at the hem. Jacket must look good closed. True tuxedo jackets, IMHO, can look frumpy. Often they are cut like mens and I don't like the oversized look for this outfit. I did by the Equipment tux but I wear that with jeans. Sexy cami just peeking out of jacket, great shoe and bag. The fit of the jacket and pants are everything, the proportions and the fabrication must be dressy. That's my take on things.

Cardiff girl

Veteran

Fashiontern-as far as I know a tuxedo is the way most people in the U.K would refer to this look,l think the Le Smoking is more a fashion speak thing than in regular use.

Gaylene

Veteran

The tuxedo riff has always been my favorite evening look ever since Yves Saint Laurent’s models strutted it down the runway in the 70s. I felt at home in its elongated, minimalist, androgynous look in a way that I never did in more traditional female evening dressing.

While I (sort of ) agree with Gryffin’s description, I think pulling off the look depends more on the personality and attitude of the woman herself than the specific garment. My versions of “le smoking” have, at one time or another throughout the decades, incorporated both wide and narrow legs, cropped and elongated jackets, silk and sequined lapels, bared skin, silk ties worn with halter tops, low-heeled brogues and stiletto heels, red and nude lips, smokey eyes, long and short hair, and all combinations therein. Even in my 70s, I’m still wearing my “tuxedo” to opening night at the opera and feeling wonderfully me when I stride through the crowds of ladies in their evening gowns and jewelry.

To me, the wearer has always been the key element in the transformation of a black pantsuit from daytime to evening wear. A woman needs to embrace the androgynous/ convention-bending roots of this look, infuse it with her own personality so she feels comfortable in its sensual connotations, and then wear her “tuxedo” with confidence in a swirl of pretty, feminine frocks. In short, “le smoking” needs to fit the personality of the wearer.

gryffin

Veteran

Gaylene - thank you. I had meant to mention attitude and had forgotten in focusing on specifics. This is a look that you understand and embrace or not. You need to own it. I won't say more because you said it so eloquently except to agree, Yes! Yes! Yes!

LaPed

Veteran

I mean, smoking jacket is just another way of saying dinner jacket which is another word for tux jacket? Like Gaylene says, I think the term "Le Smoking" originated with YSL and that's the first time, afaik, that a tuxedo was marketed to women.

I agree that the keys to success are impeccable tailoring and the wearer's attitude.

Janet

(website)

Veteran

I've always liked the idea of a beautifully tailored tux jacket and pants, but the idea of searching for such a thing, and the probable cost of it (for minimal wear, as I can't think of when I would have last worn an outfit like this) make it sort of a silly thing for me to shop for.

Many many years ago (back in the 80s), a radio station where I worked had a big gala event, and all the DJ's had to wear tuxes -- including me and the one other female DJ! The jacket was not a problem after a bit of tailoring work, but the trousers were awful, even after an attempt at tailoring. And that was when I was young and skinny, but even then still had HIPS. I ended up wearing the jacket with a flared black midi skirt and high heels. LOL

Irina

Veteran

Well, I love the look but finding a jacket in petite and in my price range has been impossible so far. I have a pair of the wool tuxedo pants that I wear with black or white cashmere turtleneck. Planning to wear it to a theater on December 31 and may be to a holiday dinner.

Jessikams

(website)

Veteran

Yeah, perfect tailoring is hard for me. My weight fluctuates by about 10 lbs, so clothing that is worn infrequently (fancy clothing) never seems to fit right when the occasion arises! Too big or too small, too big or too small....

Anonymous

It looks beautiful on the tall dramatic winter types-could see it working on Katerina! On me it would be waiter or penguin.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

I think the flared midi - thing BIG skirt - with a tucked top and pointy toes pumps is iconic.

Mary Beth (formerly LBD)

(website)

Veteran

Thanks for all of the insights - this helped me sort it all out a bit

I think my festive holiday look for this year is going to be about those flared mid skirts, as Angie has pointed out! Time to dig around the costume closet!

And if the right, inexpensive tuxedo style jacket should pop up, I will give Le Smoking a try, because why not?

Syrie

I always think of Le Smoking as being a brocade jacket with a velvet shawl collar. I may be wrong, but I think that was the model for the YSL classic of the 60s.