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Having a dress made vs. buying one

Aziraphale

Veteran

Is it worth having a dress made rather than buying off the rack? Has anyone ever done this for something other than a wedding dress? I have a specific dress in mind: a perfectly fit, sleeveless black sheath dress that I think is missing from my wardrobe. I've been looking for a while and I can't find the right one. Besides, I always need to have things altered to fit my short and slightly weird figure anyway. Maybe I should just start from scratch. If I do get one made, how do I find a good dressmaker? And do I need to shop for my own fabric? Because I'm not loving that idea. Aaargh.

Shopping

19 replies

Latest reply was from Aziraphale

biscuitsmom

Veteran

I havent done it yet, but my tailor told me I need to bring both the material and a pattern for her to follow.... have you looked at eshakti? For only $7.50 extra, they will customize any of their clothing items for you. GREAT reviews on that company too....

Vix

Veteran

Hi Elisabeth --

I am happy to say YES: for the past few years I've had this done for several dresses (as well as skirts and tops). I've had mine all done locally because they usually require 2 fittings.

While I totally understand budget and time constraints can be a barrier for many, I feel I get great value for my money given that I *wear* what I have made and get to skip alteration fees. Sounds like you know the drill with the latter. Plus no wasting time with shopping IRL or even virtually and coming up dry as the proverbial bone....

I know sewing has taken off as a hipster thing with women in their 20s, but I don't know why more women with fit issues don't pursue having things made -- I hope you continue to explore the process!

In addition to online resources like Etsy etc, you can:

* Beg for seamstress recommendations at the nearest bridal shop (alterations central!) or fabric store
* See who handles costumes for your high school drama department
* Check the yellow pages for drycleaners who mention "custom tailoring" (then check for online reviews)
* Google for blogs/websites related to "buying local" in your area

As far as what you may need to provide, it's really going to vary.

A drycleaner/tailoring shop with a lot of custom business suiting clients may have bolts of black wool in varying weights and lining ready and waiting, but be +/- as far as needing a pattern; a dressmaker may be good to go working off her staple patterns but need you to provide suiting and lining material.

If your experience is like mine pricing may be all over the place -- especially if it's a case of home-based vs store-based, so it's worth being thorough in your research.

PLEASE don't be scared of the fabric store, ha -- I did not/do not sew and while I'm overwhelmed by stores with tons of choices I still love wandering around them and seeking fabric that is perfect for my coloring and needs.

However, it's definitely possible to be super-targeted and throw yourself on the mercy of the staff to help you get in/out with your fabric and lining.

This is already a novel, so if you're interested in more about my experience you can check my post here:

http://buildingacolorfullife.w.....g-collabs/

I'd love you to keep us updated!

Isabel

Veteran

Vix has great ideas.

I just want to add that if you have a major, upscale department store in your area, call and ask them for recommendations. I found an out of this world cobbler this way.

afterism

Biscuitsmom, have you purchased anything from eShakti?

Some of their stuff looks fantastic.

Nevermind - They don't ship to Australia.

Aziraphale

Veteran

Wow, Vix, thanks for the detailed recommendations! You guessed right, fabric stores give me hives, but perhaps I'll be brave and beg help from the sales assistants. I'm good at drawing, so I could provide a dressmaker with very accurate and detailed sketches of what I want, but I don't know the first thing about textiles.

As far as finding a dressmaker, I had never thought about the bridal shop connection. I think that will be my first shot, because now that I think of it, my best friend had her wedding gown made from scratch by a fabulous dressmaker. I guess it never occurred to me that she might make "normal" dresses too. I'll have to find out what she charges, but I suspect the cost won't be hugely different from buying off the rack and paying for alterations. Most nice cocktail dresses seem to cost at least a couple of hundred dollars (or maybe I'm just shopping in the wrong places....).

Buiscuitsmom, Isabel -- thanks also for your suggestions. I had never heard of eShakti. I'll look it up right now.

If I get around to doing this, I will certainly keep you posted. By then I might even have figured out how to post pictures on this site...

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

I'm going to say no. The only dress I have ever had made which I loved was my wedding dress. Rather buy a dress and have it altered.

Aziraphale

Veteran

Angie, if you don't mind me asking....why did they (the dresses you had made) not work? Was it a fabric thing? Or that they just didn't match what you had pictured in your head?

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

You just never get exactly what you expect - this has been my experience over and over again (even with direct copies of other pieces).

Aziraphale

Veteran

Bummer. I wonder why that is? Has anyone else had luck with made-from-scratch dresses?

The only dress I've ever had made was my wedding dress, and it was a complete success. However, I did have to go for several fittings.

Sveta

(website)

Veteran

Elisabeth, I have to agree with Angie here. My mom is a great seamstress and she often makes clothing for me but they do not always come up as expected. It is often hit and miss.
I think when you buy a ready made dress you see exactly what it is and how it looks on you. Your best bet is to find one the closest in fit to what you want and have it altered.
On the other hand when you have a dress custom made you do not know how it will look on you until it is pretty much done and by then it is often too late and too expensive to change something. Even a slight variation in the fabric quality/ thickness may have a huge difference in how the dress fits and looks. How many times you have seen a picture of the dress and liked it but when you put it on it did not look as great as you envisioned? It is exactly the same way with custom made clothing - final result is not visible until it is almost done.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Elizabeth (I love your name, btw), my disappointment is wrapped up in my high expectation. When I want to have a dress made to look like a Prada dress - I expect it to look like a Prada dress! And it never does

If your expectations are lower, you could very well be happy with the results.

catgirl

Veteran

I think it works with simpler pieces. I've taken much-loved or found items to India and had them duplicated for pennies on the dollar. But that's for something like a cotton shift or an Eileen Fisher type of garment with clean simple lines that I could probably sew myself. As far as more high-end or complex items, I agree with Angie.

afterism

Biscuitsmom - I would like to know if you have any personal experience with eShakti after all. I have just discovered HopShopGo, they give me a US address & then forward it to me.

How did I not know about this before?

Vix

Veteran

I think the above discussion is so valuable for anyone contemplating custom or even significant alterations, because embarking on either means that one has to have really realistic expectations.

Even though I work in a field where things go through a creative process (and I "see how the sausage is made," so to speak), there has definitely a learning curve on my end as far as communicating clearly -- including knowing what questions to ask -- and managing my own expectations.

While my high expectations of the end result have remained steady, I've definitely had to readjust my thinking about how the process "should" go in terms of fitting milestones and timelines.

I admit I have freaked out a bit when something wasn't right at a fitting, but luckily I've worked with people who have described how that's normal etc and the fix is blah blah blah.

Because I'm one of the few to go on record so far with a positive vote for custom or heavily customized, I'll elaborate on what has made that happen.

Anytime I've had a less than ideal alteration or custom *outcome,* it's because I didn't know what questions to ask and the expert (and they are experts, they just aren't mindreaders) on the other end didn't think to volunteer such-and-such a point.

[Quite frankly I've been unhappier with alterations than custom, because to get a truly custom fit with some items has required much more work (read $$$) than desired and/or the changes I authorize don't fix issues that then bother me. Hard to tell that when fabric is being pinned up all around me!]

I do think that most of my custom/customized/alteration experiences have been good for various reasons:

1) I don't go in looking for a direct copy of a certain item (though I have taken in photos and clothing items for inspiration)

2) I make it clear that I am looking for a very collaborative approach where it's ok for me to ask questions *and* desire that the expert share their suggestions or feedback with me -- especially as far as matching textile choice to item desired

3) I am looking for something which "buying up and sizing down" will NOT fix, or not fix without significant cash outlay and no guarantee I will be happy (aka buying a dress to fit the bust but having to deal with oversized shoulders/armscyes)

4) Wanting a specific item in a color and/or fit that is not readily available, or not available at the price point I'm willing to spend (aka a lined mid-weight wool dress with an empire line and then a close-to-the-body fit...in nonblack)

So because I'm going in because I want something "unique" (for lack of a better word), and am willing to talk about how I like clothes to fit my body and what shapes work best for it, AND have asked for input what items would work best with my fabric or what fabric(s) work best for my desired item, I've been very very satisfied.

[And I also like supporting small businesses and cultivating relationships with local people, so that's a bonus too!]

Mac

Veteran

I've almost always been disappointed in dresses I've had made for me, alas. I really do prefer the dresses that I buy ready-made.

Aziraphale

Veteran

Thanks everyone for weighing in. I can see both points of view. I remember when I said I was having my wedding dress custom made, my mother-in-law (who had done the same thing with her own wedding gown and had been desperately disappointed) cautioned me against it. Her dress really was disastrous (I've seen pictures!), but it was made by the best dressmaker in town. Perhaps the problem was, as Vix suggested, inadequate communication. On the other hand, my gown was inspired by an existing design from a local designer. It was basically the same as the sample gown, only with a different neckline and bodice fabric. The fact that I got to try on the sample -- despite the fact that it was too loose and about a foot too long -- meant I got a very good idea of what my own gown was going to look like. I think this is why I was happy with the result.

So back to this sleeveless black sheath dress. Here's the thing: I want quite a simple design. I know what shape I want the neckline, and where I want the waist seam and the darts. I know how long I want it, how big the armholes should be and how high the vent should go. I can draw all these things clearly, front, back and side, on a figure with my specific proportions. I'm unclear on fabrics, but maybe a dressmaker can help me there. In theory, it sounds totally doable, doesn't it? But I totally understand that just presenting an idea to a dressmaker may result in an unflattering, expensive and potentially unwearable dress like my mother-in-law's. With these more specific details, do you still think I should/shouldn't go for it?

Aziraphale

Veteran

btw thanks for the compliment on my name, Angie.

Stephanie

Veteran

If you want something more dramatic than alterations but are nervous about making from scratch: I have had good luck having dresses made over. I.e., I thrift a simple dress of good quality that fits me and specify the changes I want (often quite dramatic) using 'inspiration' pictures. I have had skirts taken off, refashioned, and put back on, wrap dresses turned into non-wrap dresses, etc. Actually I posted a picture of a nude-colored 'makeover' dress not that long ago, and people liked it. I'm really happy with it.

But for this kind of endeavor you need a tailor who is both creatively inclined and of a mind with you.

Aziraphale

Veteran

Stephanie, I have an acquaintance whose beautiful pale pink wedding gown had once been a high school prom dress. Her mother-in-law made it over for her. Apparently it used to have gigantic puffed sleeves and a big butt-bow and was generally gagworthy. I wish I had seen some "before" pictures! The end result was amazing. She was one of the most gorgeous and stylish brides I have ever seen.

Wish I had a friend/family member who could do that sort of thing.