Thanks for giving me something to puzzle over, guys! I think I've figured it out now and I can sum it up as follows: Michele is brilliant but not original, while Gvalsalia might be original but is far from brilliant.
Runcarla, krishnidoux, thanks, it's kind of you to say so. And Sheila, it took me a while to appreciate the wonders of a quilted jacket, but you're right, they're indispensable.
Sterling, I'm glad I'm not the only one who's noticed this, and rachylou, you have a point about the death of couture. I've been musing over the article kkards posted, which was published at a time when haute couture was responding to a number of interventions. McQueen was on the rise, Margiela was staging a quiet revolution and Westwood was at the top of her game. All of these labels were very much concerned with tailoring and craftsmanship though. A lot has changed since then, including how luxury brands are perceived.
shevia: Don't get me wrong, I too like the direction Gucci is taking, which appeals to my flea market magpie streak (I wanna see your Dior jeans!) SF: as a fellow lover of vintage I understand that desire to wear something unique, or with a history, in a new context. That's obviously Michele's sensibility too. There's part of me that welcomes this remixing aesthetic and it's a pleasure to see it so well done. In fact, one could argue that it's a refreshing way for the business to showcase its heritage in a way that's very much in tune with the zeitgeist. An innovation in luxury branding maybe, but for fashion in general, not so much.
annagybe: urban fashion is loosing its edge and has been for a while now. Yeezy? I can't even. The Vetements look is definitely A Thing around here, popular among the youngsters although most of my friends are looking sideways. There's certainly a valid kickback against consumerism post normcore at work, but this is completely at odds with their marketing. It's an astounding feat of doublethink.
Jenni, jaded? Moi? No doubt there's an element of an older generation looking askance at something we see as unoriginal, because we've been very lucky to live through a period of intense innovation. But the vibrant street style we grew up with - mods, rockers, hippies, punks etc - that's over. The problem here is not high fashion appropriating street style, I wish it were that simple. It's that there's no discernible street style to appropriate.
BTW: Native Wear refers to the various tribal uniforms you might see in your neighbourhood. rachylou is the resident anthropologist.
ETA: Xtabay, yeah, she got a rough ride and it's probably completely undeserved
But you know me, can't resist overthinking these things. Fashion isn't just for fun, it deserves some serious critical scrutiny once in a while!