Hi TG --
Back again since you and Adelfa (big wave!) reminded me of a few things.
The first is a general comment that applies to both brassiness and grey looking too yellow -- wish I'd know this simple tip when still coloring!
I now use a drugstore shampoo for BLONDES once a week to help keep my grey parts more silvery (grey can get yellow-y from products, sun, etc) and tone down the brassiness I still have at month 10 thanks to very intelligently doing my last highlight a few months before quitting color. They do make shampoo etc specifically for grey hair too.
Article on above
My haircolorist would always use a toner on me monthly but I wish I'd used the anti-brassy shampoo, too. I think for we brunettes the brassiness can occur on either the pigmented hair as the color fades, the grey hair as the color fades, or both.
Also this is a great site for reading about hair coloring -- can help with understanding and communicating to your colorist.
My color was a mix of Level 3 and 4 but the natural red I have in the brown made it "pull red" really easily.
http://killerstrands.blogspot......le-to.html
From 1st article --
"Primary, Secondary and tertiary colors can be found at any level of natural hair color ( see above). DURP is the color that is left in the hair AFTER the lifting process takes place. Knowing the colors that will appear at a given level of color makes sure you will choose the proper base color formulation to either neutralize of enhance the desired color. There are just so many factors that go into knowing this, and remember all you have to learn is your OWN HAIR, so that is a fairly easy task.
As professional Hair Colorists, we must know every single hair color/texture and type - - out there . . . which is why it is hard to find a good Colorist. It is not an easy job, it takes a lot of education, a lot of training and a LOT of experience to understand a wide variety of hair types so that you are excellent with every hair type that sits their butt in your chair.
Oxidation
The percentage of lift in all hair color is related to the ammonia content. (if not ammonia then a chemical that is a substitute for ammonia yet, does the exact same thing). I have discovered after doing well over 10,000 heads of hair, that when it really comes down to what people want with their hair color ( people that can have anything in the world…)……they really just want the proper color hair in the healthiest manner. I looked into “Organic Hair Color Systems” many years ago – and after using it for 2 months, I ended up with brassy blondes and just the wrong tones on all my Level 7 to level 12 heads of hair. I just could not live with – nor could my clients. I had never had a problem with that NOR a problem with unhealthy hair ‘AFTER’ coloring. So I just did a complete 180 and went back to the hair color ( Wella, Renbow ) I had used from Day 1 and everyone was happy again. So for those of you with questions about that, I tried – and discovered what people want is properly colored hair that is Healthy when finished.
http://killerstrands.blogspot......those.html