Ask Angie and everyone: Trousers 101?

Angie, thanks to your fabulous outfit with the Theory trousers, I want to add a pair or two to my wardrobe as well. They would be perfect for the days I don't want to wear jeans.

The thing is, I will be travelling to Bangkok this September and I am thinking of getting the trousers tailored to perfection, rather than struggle to find the perfect non cropped pair in stores. But I don't know anything about trousers!

What sort of fabric composition should I look out for? Do I need a warmer pair for autumn and winter and a light weight pant for warmer weather?

What cut of trousers should I look for? I'm thinking a slim fit, like the Theory pair (see pic 1&2). I don't think I should go for bootcut/wide leg since I wear only flats.

Do trousers need to be lined? I read somewhere that for flat front trousers, the waistband needs to be lined - is that true?

Last question - any colour or pattern recommendations? I won't know what fabrics the seamstress has till I get there, but I want to go in with some basic ideas.

Thanks for helping! I know it is still early but I want to make a plan in advance, so that I can be clear about what I want once I get there. I am also planning go get some button front shirts tailored, since I find those difficult to fit.

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13 years ago

Angie

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Fashion Stylist

A wool blend is best. Theory trousers drape really well and the composition is usually a wool blend. Blends are also not usually itchy, so no need to line.

Summer trousers are a different story all together! They are usually cotton/silk/rayon/polyester blends.

As far as the fit goes, it's subjective. I prefer the look of looser fits. To my eye that's infinitely more flattering than a snug trouser fit. On the other hand, you also want them to cup your bottom and not be too wide on the back thigh. Although I don't think you'll have this fit challenge. That challenge surfaces with proportionately thin legs and a wide waist line.

Kirti, may I suggest that you try slim fit trousers in your stores first. Having trousers made does not guarantee good fit at all.

Veteran

Kirti, I have a flat-front skirt with an unlined waistband and it rolls all the time. Very frustrating. I got it really cheap though and it looks so good on me that I wear it anyway with longer tops to hide the waist. I love it so much I am considering taking it to a seamstress when I'm done losing weight to take it in and line the waistband.

So yes, watch for lined waistbands. It matters apparently.

Vix

Hi Kirti --

I second Angie's suggestion to try on as many pants as you can in the silhouette(s) you're thinking about before going custom -- and I'd go a step further and bring a tape measure with you so you can take notes about what's working (or maybe what's not) in terms of measurements.

I'd assess/note:
* waist (also noting where this hits on your body -- X inches below navel etc)
* rise
* leg width (upper/lower)
* lower leg opening

I wear/have worn trousers year-round and really, really prefer wool with 2% stretch. You can definitely seek out a tropical wool for warmer seasons. [My summers aren't too hot in the PNW, but I've also lived in high heat + high humidity climates.]

Reasons:

* wool is super-breathable and has antibacterial properties
* a good wool will resist wrinkling, and the wrinkles will fall out overnight after hanging

As I told Una when she was thinking about a custom trouser suit, I'd look for a 10 ounce worsted/merino wool in the 80s-110s range for "medium warm" through cold temps.

The 120s and up are silky but not as durable and (personal opinion) even lined they feel flimsier to me. I like a nice hefty drape on my backside, ha!

Personally I prefer lined pants for durability and fit reasons but it is very much a personal preference....

OTOH, unless lined in natural fabric (rare in RTW! but maybe you could explore using semi-synthetic-but-breathable rayon or cotton lining with custom) lining does reduce breathability. So I suck it up and will wear unlined tropical wool when it's hot.

Going unlined does up the "lumps and bumps" factor, of course -- something you may or may not want/need to consider.

[Alas, I find even loose trousers can highlight/cup areas when they are blown against one, one bends over, etc. Makes me think a bit harder about what to wear underneath. ;)]

Let us know how your search/experiment goes!

HelenInCanada

Bangkok - exciting, Kirti!!!

You've already received some great advice from super stylish ladies, so....good luck on your hunt and have fun!

I imagine it will be VERY hot in Thailand, so a lightweight fabric (I love linen/cotton/rayon), unlined would probably work best, IMHO. You don't need to worry about lumps and bumps, girlfriend!

Anonymous

No you don't Kirti! It you're going for a lining (or even a partial lining) make it breathable if you can.

I learned a lot from this thread. I am exactly the fit problem Angie mentioned (most pants are cut too wide in the back thigh) because of a large waist and skinny legs. *forehead palm* Now I understand why I have such trouble with pants. Thanks for asking Kirti!

As you know I sew for a living and yes having trousers made isn't a guarantee that they will fit well. I make trousers sometimes for people and often have to tweak the fit several times to get it right. Having slim legs can often create fabric surplus at the back of the thighs and the excess has to be taken off the in-seam on the back only at the upper leg area. Fabric wise wool or blend of wool are great and I like a little Lycra in the mix for comfort; probably 1 or 2 percent. Cottons and rayon or blends of these for summer weights are great too. Oh, definitely lined waistbands too.
sounds like your'e going to have fun in Thailand. lucky you

Kirti

Angie: Thank you! I am bookmarking this post so that when I go trouser shopping, I will have all your tips on hand. I think I will take your advice and give local stores a try first, hopefully autumn winter collections will have a variety of trousers!

Thanks JR! I will!

Vix: Wow! Thank you so much for such a helpful post. A lightweight wool definitely sounds like my best bet, especially for autumn and winter so I will keep my eye out for trousers that fit your description.

Thanks Helen! You are so sweet

No problem Claire. There are so many things that I am clueless about that I am SO grateful to YLF and Angie for sorting me out!

Diane: Thank you! That is great advice. I think I will hold off on tailoring for now and look out for the perfect trousers in store. Thank for the tips on fabric choice!

Here's my post on how to fit dress pants, Kirti:

http://youlookfab.com/2010/03/.....ess-pants/

Thanks! Don't know how I missed that one Angie!

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