Some Fashion Terminology

Today I’m going to talk about the way I use some common fashion terms here on YLF. The differences between some of the terms are subtle. And they are used differently by different fashion professionals. In those cases I’m not claiming my definition is better. It’s just mine. 

Trendy: An item is trendy when it’s on-trend. Trends typically last five to seven years, and sometimes even longer. Trends can be fringe or mainstream. Fring trends are those that are only adopted by a smallish subset of consumers. Some trends start out fringe and go mainstream later. Some go mainstream right away, and some stay fringe forever. Although trendy items are current, current is not a synonym for trendy. A look or item can be current, but not on-trend. For example, moto jackets are current, but not on-trend.

Current: Current means not dated. Items are current when they are not necessarily on-trend or fashionable, but they are in style. A pair of mid-rise skinny jeans or a simple knee-length pencil skirt are current items, but not trendy items. Modern classics are current. I put the word modern with the word classic because classics can date, needing a periodic refresh as the trends evolve.

Dated: Dated means not current. It applies when an item or look has passed its trendy and stylish expiry date. What is considered dated these days is as clear as mud because it’s extremely subjective and almost anything goes. With all sorts of silhouettes, looks and combinations coming back into fashion, items are less prone to looking dated, and that’s a good thing. It’s more of a personal question for the wearer because what looks dated to one person is not to another.

Fad: A fashion trend that is short-lived and over in one season or less. Fashion fads are rare these days, because trends last a lot longer than they used to. This is another great way in which fashion has evolved.

Modern Retro: Modern Retro means that you’re incorporating a style, trend or design from a bygone era AND adding a good dose of modern or current to the look. Retro items are new pieces, not vintage items that were actually made during those eras. Integrating a dose of a bygone fashion era into your look defies the trends and holds its own these days. That’s why I feel that the retro chunky white pearl necklaces that I wear daily and with anything defy the trends and don’t look dated.

Just to complicate matters, adding a dose of specific era into your look can be trendy if those fashion eras are on-trend at the moment. For example, it’s all about the ‘80s and ‘90s influences in fashion right now, so you’re on-trend wearing them.

Vintage: Wardrobe items that are older than twenty years. The risk of these items looking dated is high, but there is a hip factor associated with wearing them if you can make them look current — even on-trend — in an outfit. For example, high-rise classic jeans (aka Mom jeans) and high-rise straight jeans are vintage items you’ll find in a thrift store. You can make them look fashionably right when you combine them with a good dose of current.

Fashion-Forward: A look or item that is ahead of its time. Fashion-forward items and outfit combinations can become on-trend and completely mainstream at a later date. Think of how unfathomable it was to wear sneakers with dressier outfits a couple of decades ago. The juxtaposition was absurdly fashion-forward. Now sneakers look fine, even fabulous, with most outfits. The goalposts for what is regular fashion and fashion-forward keeps on shifting.

Avant-Garde: Unique, experimental, daring, dramatic, and somewhat architectural looks and wardrobe items that defy the trends. They are modern, current, and always in style. The most recognizable avant-garde retailer is Scandinavian COS.

Do your own definitions differ for any of these terms?

Link Love: Workwear Brands to Watch

According to Fashionista, Modern Citizen is the Everlane of women’s professional clothing.

Refinery29 rounds up 5 plus-size-friendly workwear brands.

In this NYTimes piece three brands run by young women share their wisdom on workwear, and where it’s going next.

Fab Links from Our Members

Jessikams likes Universal Standard’s Transformers collection: “Super cool things you can add to your clothes to make them more interesting or fancy. Like Spanx ‘arm tights,’ but way more fun.”

She also thinks the video for Chaka Khan’s song Like Sugar is total fashion inspiration. She adds: “If you watch this one, and also Lizzo’s Good As Hell, while you get dressed, awesome outfits will result. Or at least you’ll have fun dancing around.”

UmmLila likes this ManRepeller/Leandra Medine piece on what maximalism means to her.

La Pedestrienne really enjoyed this New Yorker piece about the costumes and style on the ’90s sitcom The Nanny, starring Fran Drescher. “So many fond memories of that program from my childhood, and it is sooo fun to see the ’90s making a comeback. Talk about maximalism…”

Shevia directs us to this Vanessa Friedman piece in which she compares sneakers to Dutch tulips.

Jenni NZ thought people might like to read about Kelly Coe, designer of Augustine and other brands, whose collections are full of colour and sparkle.

And last but not least, Angie, Alyson from Wardrobe Oxygen, and Kat from Corporette, were interviewed for this New York Times article on what business casual really means.

Five Trendy Jeans Silhouettes

Trends are not a one-season thing any more. They can last five years, and often even longer. A fringe trend is one that hasn’t quite gone mainstream. This season there is lots of trendy variety in silhouettes and washes for those who are bored with their denim looks. Extended sizes are available, but not as widespread as I’d like to see. 

I’ve narrowed down the trends to the five silhouettes that I believe are the easiest to fit, style and wear. The common design detail is a high or very high rise. The point is to showcase the length of the rise with a tucked or semi-tucked top, or shorter untucked top. Choose a shorter high rise if you’re short in the waist and rise. If you are long in the rise and torso, the rises won’t feel that high. Some of the styles have a button fly, and there’s lots of nodding back to the ‘80s and ‘90s.

1. High-Rise Straight Jeans

At the moment, a fringe trend and an acquired taste — give yourself time to get used to the look if it’s not instant affection. The silhouette is NOT tight or skinny in the slightest. The thigh and lower leg fit are fluid, and some styles are more fluid than others. Some styles have carpenter detailing. Hems are cropped or regular length to accommodate booties, oxfords, loafers, sneakers or shooties. You’ll probably need to roll the hems for high-shaft booties, or have them hemmed shorter. The Levi’s Wedgie is a good style to try, but note that the fits across the washes are different.

Mango
Relaxed Cropped Jeans
View Info
Top Pick
2

2. High-Rise Skinny Jeans

Think skinny jeans that are TIGHT to the ankle with a very high rise, and that’s the look. They’ve been on-trend for a while and are completely mainstream. The look is tailored or body-con, and there is no getting away from that. Lengths vary, but ankle length and cropped to a few inches above the ankle is common. They’re a good style to tuck into tall boots for rain, ice or snow. Personally, I prefer the silhouette with Summer shoes like loafers, ballet flats, oxfords and sandals because I like the skin exposure on the ankle with a very narrow hem, so I don’t wear these with booties. (I prefer booties with a roomier and straight hem). I’d wear the high-rise skinny with tall boots though, because that’s classic equestrian.

3. High-Rise Classic or Ankle Jeans

This is what the industry has called “Mom Jeans” and I cringe at the description. They’re a little roomier in the thighs than High-Rise Straight Jeans (#1), and more tapered on the lower leg. Full lengths are common, and a good item to find in a vintage consignment store. A fringe trend.

4. High-Rise Bootcut Jeans

These will take you back to the ‘70s because of the high rise. The versions in the late ’90s and  ‘00s were much lower in the rise, and to my eye look dated now unless you cover the rise and waist with an untucked top. Bootcuts are fitted on the hips and thighs, and flare out on the lower leg. They are a lot more tailored than wide legs. Some bootcut hems flare out more than others. They are FULL LENGTH, and completely mainstream. The trendy way to wear them is with sneakers and substantial flats. Of course, they look classically perfect and elegant with a pointy-toe heeled bootie or pump at the right length (almost skimming the surface of the ground).

Mango
Flared Newflare Jeans
View Info
Top Pick
5
Mango
Flared Jeans
View Info
Top Pick
2

5. High-Rise Wide Crops

These have been on-trend for a while, are a version of culottes, and completely mainstream. Fitted on the waist and hips, and wide through to the hem from the thighs down. If you style them similarly to the way you would a flared midi skirt, it’s an easy silhouette to wear. I prefer to wear these in the Summer months with warm-weather footwear, but they work well with booties, oxfords, tall boots and pumps too.

I’m into these silhouettes, and have all but the Mom Jeans and high-waisted bootcuts represented in my wardrobe. I’ve had the wide crops for years, but added the high-rise straights and high-rise skinnies this year. I’m leaving the high-rise bootcut jeans for Spring, although I recently bought high-rise chino bootcuts that I wear with chunky white sneakers and adore the vibe.

What do you think of the new silhouettes, and will you be refreshing your jeans capsule with any of them?

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

Read More

Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

Read More

Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

Read More

Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

Read More

Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

Read More

Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Shapewear 2018

Shapewear is never essential. Instead, you can find silhouettes that look great with your favourite ultra comfy undies and look fabulous. That said, shapewear has come a long way from the discomfort of the past. Thanks to product and fabric technology, some of my clients are wearing tummy control shapewear daily because they find it comforting and flattering. 

Twelve years ago, I remember one of my clients sitting on the floor of the Nordstrom dressing room, desperately trying to pull on a pair of Spanx. We laughed so much, which made the task even harder. The client eventually got them on but decided that the visual effect wasn’t worth the effort, discomfort, and inconvenience. She was put off any kind of shapewear for an extremely long time, and rightly so.

In 2018 I have a much better range of shapewear products to recommend to clients because it’s ten times more comfortable, much easier to pull on and off, and equally effective.

TC Fine Intimates

TC’s Everyday Waistline Shaping Brief is very gentle on the body. So much so that you can wear it daily. TC’s Adjust Firm Control Perfect Brief is more constricting, but still quite gentle. Neither style rides up, digs into your skin, or presses heavily into the waist. Your tummy doesn’t feel compressed after a meal. The panties smooth out the tummy area, and the fabric is soft.

Thinstincts

Thinsticts Mid Thigh Shorts are equally gentle, and you can wear them daily. They smooth out the contour of tummy, hip and thighs. I find that they work best under dresses and skirts, as opposed to pants.

Jockey

Jockey’s Slip Shorts don’t smooth out your silhouette quite as effectively as the other three styles, but they are very comfortable under skirts and dresses, offering insulating coverage and preventing thigh rub and chafing.

Some clients like to wear these styles of shapewear under the new on-trend high-rise jeans and pants with tucked tops. They also work well under skirts and dresses. Don’t buy your shapewear too small or it will ironically create more lumps and bumps instead of smoothing out the silhouette.

Driving and Outerwear

I don’t spend a lot of time in the car, but enough to have a preference for the type of outerwear that is most comfortable when driving: SHORT outerwear like peacoats, woolly bombers, blazers, denim jackets moto jackets, a cape coat, and short puffers. 

I prefer the look, warmth, drama, elegance, and outfit versatility of longer coats. But they are less comfortable to wear when driving. They are bulky and get in the way. They also often crease at the back when you sit in them, which drives me bananas. So I take them off when I drive (or am a passenger), and lay them down on the seat. I put the seat warmers and heat on full blast to stay warm without my coat.

My long, insulating coats are excellent for urban walking and shopping with clients. When I’m taking public transport, sometimes I take my coat off when I sit, and sometimes I don’t. But I often don’t get a seat in the bus, tram or train which means I keep on my long coat.

My clients run the gamut. Those who spend a significant part of the day in the car tend to stick to shorter jackets and coats, and sporty gear styles that don’t crease, across a range of lengths. Others have similar preferences to me, or don’t wear a coat at all because they’re moving directly from one heated environment to another during the day.

Over to you. Do you have an outerwear preference for when you drive, and do you wear your coats and jackets in the car?