Becoming a Better Shopper

A client recently told me that I was an extremely good shopper. I thanked her for the kind compliment, but immediately qualified by saying “I’m a good shopper now, but I wasn’t always a good shopper.” I’ve learned from my mistakes, and continue to learn from them. 

At almost 55 I’ve reached the stage where I have a very good idea of the types of colours, silhouettes, fabrics, brands, vibes, and outfit combinations that make me happy and work for my lifestyle. I learned the hard way, and it has taken years to get there.

As a child and teen I needed very few regular clothes because I wore a school uniform during the week, and horse riding gear on the weekend. My need for everyday clothing increased substantially as a university student in the late ‘80s. With a limited budget, I remember buying what I could on sale a few times a year. There was little thought to mixing and matching other than “does this go with my white, green, red, and pink bottoms, or blue jeans?” And then hoping for the best. I had skirt and dress outfits that I wore over and over again. I loved jackets and spent most of my budget on them. Footwear was simple. I wore white hi-top sneakers, brown boots, white slip-on flats, and tan sandals. I had two pairs of low heeled pumps that I wore to dressy events.

I begun my career in fashion in 1992. For the first time I began to think about professional attire, grown-up casual clothes, dressy event clothing, and how it all fitted together to create an affordable look that I liked, felt good in, and worked for my lifestyle. When it came to buying clothes I was in a unique situation. As a retail buyer, I had access to free clothing samples, sample sales, factory shops, and employee discounts from the retailers I worked for. This made a huge financial difference. I was able to put together a good size wardrobe affordably and quickly. I bought Levi’s 501’s, handbags, and footwear full price, but little else.

This perpetual access to wardrobe items at discounted prices meant that I had a lot of clothes across a range of looks, vibes, fits, and colours. I had gorgeous clothes, but not all of it was fab on me. I wore my fair share of ill-fitting clothing, colours that didn’t suit my complexion, patterns I didn’t love, outfits that malfunctioned, and vibes that never felt right. I had many more bottoms than tops, lots of jackets, orphaned skirts, and few dresses. I wore necklines that drowned my shoulder line, pants that were too big at the waist, and sleeves at impractical lengths. I wore lots of black, beige, and grey in the late ‘90s because there wasn’t much else at retail, and they aren’t my best neutrals. I also had too few casual clothes. As much as I loved to shop, my style and wardrobe wasn’t tight, cohesive, disciplined and focussed like it is now.

I also wasn’t good at shopping for footwear. I frequently wore uncomfortable shoes that killed my feet just because I liked the way they looked. I would hope that they would break in, but they didn’t. Shoes were often too short, wide, hard, heavy and high for my low volume feet. I hobbled along for most the day waiting to kick my shoes off at home.

Over the years, I began analyzing the silhouettes, colours, fabrics and outfit combinations that made me feel comfy, good in my skin, and appropriate for the setting and climate. I took mental notes of what I thought looked flattering when I look at an outfit in the mirror. I came up with the right neutral and non-neutral palettes for my style, which evolved organically as needed. I started thinking about top-to-bottom ratios, the power of accessories, and filling wardrobe holes. Most importantly, I began thinking of my wardrobe in terms of capsules so that items relate to each other, cohesive outfits could be created, and every aspect of my dressing life was covered.

Through trial and error, plenty of shopping mistakes, and a lot of soul searching, I’ve become a better shopper. Since I’m in the fashion industry and love to shop, I am trend-sensitive in my outfit choices. Conversely, it is precisely because I’m a fashion and style professional that I block out a lot of outside influence and do my own thing.

I gave a lot of thought to the optimal size of my wardrobe, which is not small and minimal. I enjoy a medium sized wardrobe with lots of options, colours, and handbags, but fewer shoes. I like to refresh seasonally, edit fairly frequently, stick to signature looks, and throw in the newness when I feel like a change.

These days I know what I’m looking for when I shop and seldom make a mistake. That said, footwear is an ongoing crapshoot because I have fussy feet and do a lot of walking. I can take every “good shopping precaution” beforehand, only to find out that after several road tests that the shoes don’t work and I can’t return them. It’s something that can’t be helped, and I’ve accepted it.

The Rise Length Dilemma

The rise is the distance between the crotch point and the waistband of pants, jeans and shorts. The back rise is a little longer than the front rise. The length of the front and back rise dictates how high or low bottoms sit on the body, therefore influencing the position of the waistline and overall fit. 

Rise length can be low, mid or high. Low rises measure around 8.5 inches or less in front. Mid rises measure between 9 and 10.5 inches. High rises measure 11 inches or more. Fashion trends dictate the lengths of rises. Sometimes they’re low for many years, and sometimes higher.

Rise lengths are a great topic of discussion with my clientele. In short, there is no one rise length to rule them all. Some like them higher and some lower, because body types and sartorial preferences differ greatly from person to person. What is high rise on one body type is low rise on another, and vice versa. Even a mid rise can be too high or too low on a particular body type.

If your rise preferences are not on trend, you’re generally out of luck until silhouettes change. Therein lies the dilemma. When I started my wardrobe consulting business nineteen years ago, rises were low, and mid rises were lower than usual. Most of my clients lamented this, because only a few of them enjoyed wearing low rises. As the years went by, low rises disappeared and a good length mid rise became the norm. My clients were generally much happier with that. Over the past seven years, popular rises have become high and very high, which has been a big change. Notably, mid and high rises have made many of my clients happy. Front rises between 10 and 12 inches seems to be the sweet spot. Higher than that, and fewer clients are happy. That said, I do have some clients who thoroughly enjoy front rises beyond 13 inches.

The only way to satisfy everyone’s rise preferences is to have an assortment of lengths across a range of silhouettes every season. Unfortunately, that’s not how trends have worked in the past. However, I’m hopeful that we’re getting closer to an ideal reality. Despite the ubiquitous high rise, mid and low rises are coming back. For the first time in my lifetime, I’m seeing all rise lengths on runway shows and at regular stores. High rises may reign supreme, but that is changing.

Furthermore, thanks to a bustling secondhand market it’s easier to find bottoms with the rise length of your choosing. For example, at a consignment store last week, I saw jeans and pants with low rises that were at last fifteen years old. I was also recently gifted with an unworn pair of 18 year old jeans with a lowish rise.

Whatever your rise preference, I hope you find it one way or another.

Outfit Formula: Casual Olive Pants

Cotton and cotton-rich casual olive pants are popular with my clients and YLF forum members. They can be a great casual, non-denim bottom option if skirts, athleisure pants, dressy trousers, white pants, and patterned pants are not your thing. 

Olive bottoms come in an assortment of shades. Some are warm-toned, and some cool-toned. Some olives are more brown, and others more green. Choose the right olive in the right pants silhouette for you. If you live in a mild climate, you can wear them most of the year.

Onto some outfit inspiration across a range of pant silhouettes and different shades of olive.

1. Sweater and Boots

A pair of cool-toned olive joggers is combined with a black and tan floral sweater. The welted sweater looks great worn over the pants, so no need to semi-tuck the front. Black cowboy boots are the iconic classic choice of shoe, and match the black in the top. Add a bag to match too.

Sweater and Boots

2. Pink and Blue

A pair of olive cropped barrel pants is paired with a tucked bumble gum pink and cream pattered blouse. A blue denim jacket adds another neutral to the palette. Cream espadrilles match the cream component of the patterned top. Add a bag that works with the outfit.

Pink and Blue

3. Neutrals and Stripes

Adding solid neutral tops in black, white, grey, navy, and denim blue to olive bottoms is an easy slam dunk option. Classic stripes in black or navy and white are too. Chambray tops can work as well as denim shirts. Earth tones like cinnamon, chocolate, and cognac are another way to go. Here are ways to put together the look.

Everlane
The Easy Pant
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4. Burgundy and Snakeskin

Berries and plums, twinsets, chocolate brown and snakeskin footwear are trending for Spring and Summer 2025. This look showcases all four trends. A berry tank is layered with a berry cardigan to create a twinset-effect. The duo tops a pair of olive wide cropped pants. Dainty snakeskin sandals are the summery finishing touch. A mismatched brown bag complements the palette.

Burgundy and Snakeskin

5. Orange and Gold

Embroidery and metallic footwear are having a fashion moment. This look showcases both trends by combing a pair of olive chinos with an orange embroidered cardigan and gold Mary Janes. The olive embroidery in the cardigan matches the olive pants. It’s buttoned through and worn as a top. The gold shoes match the gold necklace and hoop earrings of the model. Add a bag, watch and eyewear as desired.

Orange and Gold

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

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Assorted Spring and Summer Finds

This week’s picks are Spring and Summer inspired. Breezy dresses, classic boots, cotton-rich toppers, comfortable sandals, and a tool to create soft pretty feet. Be sure to browse the colour and size options.

1. Fanm Mon Dresses

If you bat for Team Embroidery, and enjoy wearing a summery pretty dress, keep this brand on your radar. Designs are cotton, Haitian-inspired, and make a statement. My petite client and friend rocked the yellow and light blue Jess Floral Dress and loved it. I see actors on TV shows wear these dresses too.

2. Miz Mooz Carlitos Western Booties

Miz Mooz generally makes comfortable casual footwear. Their thick cushioning footbeds and leather linings make your feet feel like they’re walking on clouds. I had a pair of lime green Miz Mooz Western boots years ago, and thoroughly enjoyed them. These are their update. Size up if you wear half sizes because their toe boxes can be short. They run quite wide. An iconic classic.

3. Gap Denim Jackets

Gap is offering great denim jackets at affordable prices this season. Many come in regular, tall and petite sizes. One of my tall clients took my breath away in the Cinched Denim Jacket in white. It looked so much better on my client than on the model. She buttoned it all the way through, scrunched the sleeves, popped the collar, and wore white jeans on the bottom. Elegant and sassy. Comes in black and blue denim too. The Cropped Floral Denim Jacket is unique and darling, and works particularly well with dresses and skirts. A good fit on petites.

Gap Peplum Denim Jacket

Gap Cropped Floral Denim Icon Jacket

4. Brioso Shoes

Brioso shoes are from Brazil, and you can buy them at Dillard’s. Super soft footbeds and leather makes their sandals particularly comfortable. There is arch support too. Clients have narrowed it down to these favourite styles that are well worth a look. Great online reviews too. Click through the links to view all neutral colour options.

5. Biosana Swiss Foot File

I recently bought this pricey foot file, and it’s awesome. It’s more effective than any professional pedicure I’ve had. It leaves your feet smooth and polished, and is especially successful at smoothing calluses and cracked skin. Easy to wash, store, and I found it well worth the price.

Enjoying the Changes in Your Style

I enjoy the constants in my style. For example, wearing items that are part of my signature style, day after day and year after year. They are familiar, comforting, easy, and personal. That said, there are times when change is also good. I enjoy shifts and variety because refreshing my look is energizing, prevents boredom, and keeps my style aligned with current needs and preferences.

1. Seasonal Change

I feel fortunate to live in a city with distinct seasons, which is greatly reflected in how I dress. I love how the change in weather makes me wear completely different outfits. I’m ready to shed layers and Winter woolies in lieu of crisp cottons, white jeans and pretty dresses by the time Spring and Summer roll around. Similarly, I’m ready for blue jeans, jackets, and boots in Autumn time.

2. Mood Change

I pander to my changing dressing moods. I can be very into wearing patterns and pattern mixing, right up until I feel like wearing solids and no patterns for a while. I can be in the mood for clashing bright colours from head-to-toe, or resort to blue, white and gold outfits for a bit. I enjoy tonal outfits one day, and high contrast on another. Similarly, I like my hair wavy for a few days, and straight for the next.

3. Trend Change

Trying new outfit combinations, colours, and trends can be exciting and fun. It’s like experimenting with a wearable form of artistic expression. Since fashion and style is my line of work, it feels natural to be an early adopter of some trends. While much of my style is grounded by classic silhouettes, the trends play a particularly important role in the bottoms that I wear. That’s how I change up the look of my style the most.

4. Adapting to Change

New cities, new settings, new climates, and a new way of life evolves my style so that I’m practically and emotionally prepared for the activities, demands, and weather of the day. For example, Seattle Summers are hotter than they used to be, so I’ve embellished my hot weather capsule every year. I’m also vacationing in hot cities more regularly. This has significantly changed the landscape of my wardrobe and style. Since I grew up in hot countries, I enjoy the style change.

5. Personal Change

Sometimes, I need to mark a big change in my life by changing my style. The change helps embrace the new chapter by creating a refreshed personal stamp. Notably, when my Papa passed away in 2021, it was the end of an era, and the beginning of life without my parents. That’s when I decided to grow out my platinum pixie to shoulder length hair in my natural colour. Switching up to a new look is symbolic in a way. It’s a big change that I only enjoyed after I’d reached my hair goals. The grow-out was tedious, but the result was worth it. While I miss the daily ease of styling a pixie, I am thoroughly enjoying my natural hair colour.

As much as I love things to stay the same, I like a change too. How about you?