Link Love: Fashion Week & The Issue of Diversity

September is fashion show month, and I noticed that fashion publications are increasingly paying attention to diversity and sincerity:

Fab Links from Our Members

Shevia remembers Rhoda fondly: “For a Generation, Valerie Harper’s Rhoda Defined Imaginative Boho Style.”

Lisa p found this article about whether vegan leather is a more sustainable option or not interesting.

When Nude Is Only Nude For Some People“: Nuancedream remembers when Crayola crayons had a color named ‘Flesh’ and no one she knew had a skin tone that looked like Silly Putty.

Vildy found it interestingly ironic that for Celine’s Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection Hedi Slimane used the vehicle of the fashion show to promote pre-fashion show clothing conventions.

Runcarla loved this: a Canadian museum worker dresses up like famous works of art, and then poses with them.

After seeing this article, Fashintern asks why there are standard issue swimsuits when we don’t have standardized bodies.

L’Abeille has not watched the television show Succession, but found this description of costume choices for Shiv Roy’s character inspiring, to the point that it may shape her style evolution this Fall.

Fall & Winter 2019: Footwear

After discussing the colours of the season, the vibes & silhouettes, and the direction of denim, it’s on to footwear. Current footwear trends are much inspired by the ‘80s and ‘90s, with a little ‘70s for good measure. That’s why we’re seeing an extreme assortment of ‘80s dressy, delicate refinement AND ‘90s casual combat chunkiness. The platforms are a ‘70s touch.

Toe boxes are ‘80s pointy or round, and ‘90s square or snip toe. Heels are daintily stacked, stilettoed and blocked, or ruggedly lugged and flat-formed. There are lots of hybrids, colours, clever technical fabrics, low heels and flats, laces, and interesting soles. Maximal footwear hardware is coming through too.

Footwear in earth tones, patent, and shades of brown leather/pleather are top of the list, with all sorts of animal print like leopard, cheetah, snake, giraffe, pony and crocodile. I’m also seeing lots of black, red, and white footwear, as well as some green, teal and purple.

The Western boot is a late ‘80s influence, and here to stay as an iconic classic. The sneaker is the shoe of our fashion era and there is a mind-blowing assortment of the ped. From Converse and Adidas, Eccos and Allbirds, Seinfeld looks and retro Pumas, and everything else. There isn’t a wrong pair of sneaker or sneaker hybrid these days, and you can wear them with anything.

‘90s Dr. Martens are back with a vengeance. There are lots of new Dr. Martens-esque boot silhouettes to complement the trend. Heeled loafers and oxfords are a thing, and dressy flats reign supreme. The haute hiking boot is huge. If you like square-toed footwear, milk it. Floral footwear and wrapped pumps are having their trendy moment. Over-the-knee boots are back, and so are tall slouchy boots which are worn over straight legs or with midis. Mid-calf boots worn over pleated pants and skirts or dresses ‘80s style are coming through too.

Here’s a collection of key footwear styles for the season:

Everlane
The '90s Loafer
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3
Boden
Heswall Shoe Boots
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1
Boden
Renee Flats
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5
Boden
Helena Low Heels
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Top Pick
5
Shopbop
Ash Ono Loafers
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Top Pick
5
Shopbop
Vince Delmar Shoes
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Top Pick
4
Shopbop
By Far Becca Boots
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Top Pick
7
Nordstrom
Me Too Dani Loafer
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Top Pick
1
Nordstrom
MIA Liam Bootie
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Top Pick
3
Nordstrom
JAGGY Zip Boot
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Top Pick
3
Nordstrom
Geraldine Loafer
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Top Pick
6
Nordstrom
Kalissa Pump
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Top Pick
2
Nordstrom
Adiline Loafer
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Top Pick
5
Nordstrom
Katie Bootie
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4
Nordstrom
Casi Myra Bootie
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Top Pick
12
Nordstrom
Odette Bootie
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Top Pick
3
Nordstrom
Dalaran Bootie
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Top Pick
22
Nordstrom
Sloan Bootie
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Top Pick
9
Nordstrom
Bobbi Moto Boot
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Top Pick
14
Nordstrom
Combat Boot
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6
Shopbop
LAST Rocky Boots
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2
Shopbop
CULT GAIA Cam Boots
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Top Pick
2
Boden
Heswall Shoe Boots
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Top Pick
2
Boden
Ampton Ankle Boots
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Top Pick
3
Boden
Striped Sneakers
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6
Boden
Bea Fringe Flats
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3
Boden
Burwell Ankle Boots
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1
Boden
Cavenham Ankle Boots
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5
Boden
Carina Heeled Loafers
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2
Boden
Carina Heeled Loafers
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8
Boden
Helena Low Heels
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5
Boden
Leaton Chelsea Boots
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13
Boden
Georgina Loafers
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Top Pick
5
Nordstrom
AGL Combat Boot
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Top Pick
4
Zara
Multicolored Sneakers
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3
Zara
Heeled Cowboy Boots
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1
Zara
Quilted Leather Mules
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4
Zalando
Ecco Sneakers laag
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4

I like the footwear trends, although earth-toned footwear and animal print is not my thing on this leg of my style journey. Instead, I’m feeling patent cream and red boots, and bright yellow weatherproof Converse. I have Western shooties so that’s covered too. I’d love a pair of refined slouchy tall boots but they must be flat or low-heeled. This is what I have on order to refresh for the season:

Over to you. Which footwear trends are you feeling this season?

Fall & Winter 2019: Jeans

After discussing the new season’s colours, and vibes and silhouettes, it’s on to denim. We are absolutely spoiled for choice when it comes to jeans these days. The assortment is sublime, and my suggestion is to milk it, if you enjoy wearing jeans. 

Fits and widths are wider, and rises are higher. Mid-rise jeans are present, but harder to find. There is only ONE skinny in the mix because trends have moved away from the silhouette. Regular skinny jeans are classics.

These are the most important new on-trend jeans silhouettes to my eye, which are fab in any wash of blue denim, another neutral, or a colour. Some of the silhouettes are brand new, some have been fringe trending for a while, and others have gone mainstream. Flies are zip-through, button-through, or exposed. You’ll see a lot of ‘80s and ‘90s revival here, which is why some of the styles are referred to as vintage jeans.

1. High-Rise Skinny

The high-rise skinny is the only trendy skinny silhouette, and has been mainstream for a while. The idea is to showcase the high rise by tucking or semi-tucking a top, or wearing a short top that highlights the waist. Lengths are cropped or full-length. A little scrunch on the hems is good too.

2. High-Rise Relaxed Straight

This takes me straight to the early ‘90s. It’s the Mom jean – (I loathe that description) – and about to go mainstream. It’s cut high on the rise and is straight through the leg. It is NOT skinny like the cropped straights of five years ago. It’s more relaxed on the leg, wider on the hem, and higher in the rise. Lengths are usually cropped, although full-lengths are coming through.

Shopbop
Closet Jay Jeans
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Top Pick
2
Mango
High Waist Jeans
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2

3. Wide Crop

Wide crops are wide all the way down to the hem, and mainstream. Their widths and lengths can vary. Some pairs are streamlined, and others dramatically wide. Lengths can finish at the calf or a couple of inches above the ankle. Some cover the ankle, but not the foot. These can make you feel and look wider, and are an acquired taste. Remember though, that you don’t need to feel and look streamlined and narrow in something to be fabulous.

4. Broad Cuff

Jeans with broad cuffs at the hem are relatively new and very fringe, especially in relaxed, flared and slouchy cuts. Some of the lengths are cropped, while others graze the top of the foot or the ankle bone. The dark washes create a high-contrast cuff, while the low-contrast cuffs on light washes are more subtle.

5. High-Rise Bootcut

Bootcuts that are twenty years old are low rise, which is not today’s trend. The trendy version is with a high rise or relatively high mid-rise, which has not gone mainstream yet. Leg fits are streamlined till after the knee and flare out to the hem. Hem widths can be subtle or more flared. These look classically great with a pair of pointy-toe heeled boots and hems that skim the surface of the ground. The trendier version is to wear them with chunky or flat-form sneakers. Most of my clients who have bought bootcuts recently are wearing them with sneakers. Awfully fab to wear full-length jeans again.

6. Paper bag and Pleated Waist

A mega ‘80s flashback if ever there was one, and very much a fringe trend. These jeans are high or very high in the rise, and often pleated on the midsection. Sometimes though, the paper bag waist and belt is sans pleats. Leg silhouettes range from straight to wide, or baggy in the thighs but tapered on the hems. Lengths vary too. This looks best on a long rise and waist.

7. Carpenter and Cargo

Jeans with carpenter and cargo detailing have been fringe trending for a couple of seasons, and are still very fringe. Silhouettes range from the relaxed straight, wide crop and bootcut, to jogger and boyfriend cuts.

8. Pattern

Printed jeans are mainstream and vary in silhouette and length. There’s a wider assortment of patterns each year, so take your pick. Patterned jeans are a good way to break up the monotony of a long Winter.

9. Slim Boyfriend or Girlfriend

These are different to the versions of ten years ago that were slouchy and low rise. Today’s boyfriend and girlfriend jeans trend is higher in the rise, fitted on the seat, tapered at the hem, and relaxed on the leg. Hems can be gently cuffed. They are still quite fringe.

10. Ribbon and Tuxedo Stripe

Jeans with tuxedo stripes and ribbon detailing on the side seams have been around for a while and are about to go mainstream. Silhouettes are usually high-rise skinnies, high-rise relaxed straight legs or cropped flares.

11. Jogger

Jeans with track pant design detailing are very fringe, and likely to stay that way. Some have structured waistbands, while others have elastic waists. Hems are tapered and ribbed or elasticated too. It can be fun to pull up the hems to create textured scrunch.

12. Cropped Flare

Cropped flares are mainstream and have been around for at least five seasons. They are also known as cropped bootcuts or demi legs. They are mid or high-rise, streamlined on the leg, and flare out on the hem like a short pair of bootcuts. They are still going strong, and not a classic yet.

13. Crossover Front

The crossover jean crosses over in the front at the waist creating a diagonal line from waist to crotch point. It’s probably the most acquired taste and the most fringe trend of the lot. They’ve been around for a while but are quite exclusive. Fits are generally relaxed or slouchy.

I love the jeans trends. Jeans are where my style is trendy, so I’ve been steadily adding trendy jeans to my capsule as they come out and tickle my fancy. Here’s my current jeans collection. I’ve got the high-rise skinny, high-rise relaxed straight, wide crop, high-rise bootcut, broad cuff, carpenter, pattern, tuxedo stripe, and cropped flare covered. Next up is some sort of pleated jean or another bright colour in a relaxed fit.

Over to you. Which denim trends tickle your fancy?

Roundups

Simpler Items

This week's list of top picks list is about basic pieces.

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Assorted Items

Items for Summer, both in and out of air conditioning.

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Casual Summer Vibes

This week's top picks are good for a casual Summer vibe.

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Summery Earth Tones

These items are for those who like to wear casual earth tones in warm and hot weather.

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Hints of Spring

Some tried-and-tested winning items to refresh your style for Spring.

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Dressier Items

An assortment of dressier top picks might be just what the doctor ordered.

Read More

Fall & Winter 2019: Vibe and Silhouette

It’s on to themes and silhouettes for 2019 after the colour palette forecast yesterday. Remember that trends last for years, and even decades, these days, and that Doing Your Own Thing (DYOT) is the most important trend of all. Some looks are mainstream, while others are fringe. Pick what’s to your taste from the buffet of trends and sport things YOUR way.

From my perspective, these are the most important looks of the season, and the seasons to come. Many trends are a continuation of what we’ve been seeing for a couple of a seasons, and are simply gaining mainstream momentum.

Most of the fashion inspiration is taken from the ‘80s and early to mid ‘90s, with a smidge of the ‘70s thrown into the mix. Here are the most current and fashionable vibes and silhouettes.

Long Blazers

Blazer lengths that cover the bottom and hips, and extend onto the thighs, are where it’s at for now. The idea is to wear them with anything, so dresses and skirts across various lengths, full-length and cropped pants and jeans across all sorts of silhouettes, and shorts too. This takes me back to the ‘90s right away.

Full-length pants

The runways are ALL about full-length pants and jeans and very few bare ankles. Tailored and slouchy, regular lengths and scrunched lengths, hard and soft fabrics, patterns and solids, casual and dressy vibe, and very few skinnies. Retail insists on cropping pants and jeans until the cows come home, but that’s not what’s happening on the runways. Hopefully we’ll see a larger assortment of full-length bottoms this season.

Midis and Maxis with Movement

Skirt lengths are knee, calf and ankle covering and generally worn with hosiery, socks or leg warmers for warmth. 95% of the silhouettes are A-line and flared in some way for ease of movement. Many of the hemlines showcase some sort of asymmetrical interest. Straight, pencil and form-fitting skirts and dresses are few and far between.

Wide Pants

Pants and jeans are tailored with movement like bootcuts, roomy and very roomy all the way down, or pleated up top and tapered at the hems with ample fluidity in the middle. Roomy straight legs or narrow wide crops are popular, and cropped to around the ankle or scrunched over the ankle and very long in length.

High Rises

Rises are high, or very high. Waistbands finish just under, on, or over the belly button. Think the ‘80s. Flat fronts are as popular as pleats and paperbag waists. The idea is to showcase the waist by tucking, semi-tucking, wearing a short top, or wearing a top or topper that belts in the same position as the waistband of the bottoms.

Plaid on Plaid on Plaid on Plaid

Fashion is besotted with every form of check and tartan across all sorts of colours and wardrobe items. Subtle, garish, bright, neutral, and the variations in between. Plaids are pattern mixed with all sorts of patterns and with other plaids. The sky is the limit when it comes to plaid.

Animal Print

It’s another season of animal print everything and especially in earth tones and footwear. Leopard, cheetah, tiger, pony, giraffe, zebra and snakeskin patterns reign supreme, and in non-neutrals too. Like plaid, animal print is remixed with all sorts of patterns and colours.

Tailoring and Straight Slouch

Today’s fashion is a wonderful mixture of waist-defining form-fitting silhouettes AND unstructured waist-surrendering silhouettes. Gorgeous tailoring, subtle fluidity, roomy fluidity, and oversized slouch, so take your pick. Drape, architectural drape, or showcasing the contour of your body just as you want to.

Sharp Shoulders and Puffy Sleeves

The ‘80s sharp shoulder has been trending for a while but is not mainstream like it used to be. I’m not sure it will ever be maintream again, but at least we have the option. Puffy sleeves that are gathered on the crown and tapered at the wrist are completely mainstream, and a much easier silhouette to layer under outerwear than the exuberant sleeve detailing we’ve been bombarded with over the last few seasons.

Trouser Suiting

Another ‘90s influence. Suiting with all sorts of pant silhouettes is huge, and completely mainstream in solids, plaids, pinstripes, florals, animal print or any other pattern that you like. Some of the blazers are longer length, but many are regular hip bone length. The idea is to wear a pants suit as a fast fall-back outfit in all sorts of settings with dressy heels, sneakers, oxfords, or dressy flats. Combine it with a tee, blouse, shirt, or pullover. Wear a tailored suit, or a more relaxed oversized suit. This is your answer to a comfy and warm holiday look when you’re not into dresses and skirts. Pant suits are a lot more handy, versatile and comfortable that you think.

Gothic Florals

Big moody florals on dark and earthy backgrounds are abundant, and you’ll find them in every wardrobe item. You can combine them with solids, or pattern mix to your heart’s content.

Lots of Colour, Lots of Black

The ‘80s were about brights from head-to-toe, while the ‘90s were about black from head-to-toe. The opposing colour spectrums happily live side by side today, and you can pick and choose. There is no right or wrong colour combination. The only thing that makes it wrong is when you’re not at peace wearing it.

Corduroy

I think of corduroy as a ‘70s and early ‘80s fabric, and it’s back with a vengeance across all wardrobe items. Hello corduroy suiting, coats, boots, pants, blazers, hats and wide crops. It’s a very casual fabric that is texture-rich and warmer than denim.

Teddy, Aviator, Shearling and Maxi Coats

All sorts of faux fur toppers continue to trend in jackets, coats, waistcoats and gilets across all solids and patterns. Roomy aviator and shearling jackets across neutrals and non-neutrals in hip-length boxy cuts that cover the butt are a throwback to the ‘90s, and a fun way to refresh your topper capsule. Calf-length maxi coats in tailored and cocoon shapes are popular and complement the midi and maxi skirt and dress trend.

Belting

There is SO much belting on the runways all of which highlight the waist. There are belted tops, jackets, gilets and coats. High-rise jeans and pants are worn with wide belts, and dresses are belted at the waist with a broad belt, ‘80s style.

Prep School

There’s a school uniform look that combines shirts with ties and blazers, dresses worn over shirts ‘90s style, and sleeveless pullovers worn over shirts and blouses with flared skirts and trousers across colours and patterns. Add fun socks, oxfords, Mary Janes, a satchel or crossbody, and Bob’s your uncle.

I like it all, but to varying degrees. I am the least interested in long blazers, gothic florals, belting, animal print, lots of black, and corduroy. I am the most interested in full-length pants, aviator toppers, midis, prep school, wide pants, trouser suiting, sharp shoulders, puffy sleeves, plaid, maxi coats, tailoring, and high rises. Which of these vibes and silhouettes are you feeling for Fall & Winter?

Boden Markham Cord Trench Coat

ei8htdreams Danielle Split Sleeve Blazer

pushBUTTON Wide Leg Wool Pant

Eloquii Cropped Moto Jacket

Fall & Winter 2019: Colour

This season I’m going to report on the trends for the next six months differently. Instead of one post, I’m breaking things up into five separate posts and devoting all week to the topic. That way the info is easier to digest and we can focus our conversations in the comments section. Let the trend games begin.

At this point I’ve seen most of the Ready-to-Wear collections for Fall 2019. Each season a set of cohesive and interesting themes eventually emerge through the chaos and drama that struts down the runway. Not one hit wonders, but themes that have staying power for years, and sometimes for decades. 

Here are some things that stood out at a high level:

  • Complexity and uncertainty continue to describe the state of current fashion. You’ll find it all on the runways if you look hard enough.
  • Maximalism is front and centre, which means wearing it all together to create a harmonized whole. Wearing complex silhouettes and combining them in one outfit, layering all sorts of pieces to create interesting proportions, accessorizing to your limit, pattern mixing, texture mixing, patchwork, embellishment, remixing high-contrast colours and clashing colours, sporting statement make-up, and adding nail polish and rainbow hair.
  • The lack of diversity across the body type and age of the models was disappointing, and looks dated.
  • The emphasis is on creativity, juxtaposition, and comfort, so there is little regard for creating conventionally flattering proportions.
  • The absence of Athleisure.
  • Sneakers are worn with EVERYTHING.
  • Pant, skirt, jeans and dress silhouettes are wide and roomy. Skinnies take a back seat.

Remember that despite what’s happening on the runways or in trend forecasts, retailers will continue to supply the market with body-con skinnies, stretchy leggings and Athleisure as long as consumers buy them. Designers do not have the power to control trends as much as we do collectively as consumers.

THE MOST IMPORTANT TREND: Do Your Own Thing (DYOT)

I used to call this the Individualism trend, but I’m changing it to DYOT. There is no one way to be stylish, and fashion is an overwhelming melting pot of sartorial choices. Increasing diversity in fashion with each passing year means that there is something for everyone, and that’s a good thing. Trends are no longer seasonal and fads no longer exist. Trends are becoming harder to define, and at some point they will be irrelevant. That’s why creating a signature style, milking the one you have, or evolving it over time is the most important and relevant trend of them all. Wear the trends, don’t wear them, pick the ones that tickle your fancy, remix them, or reinvent them — it’s all good. Do your own thing!

On to the colours. Imagine them in any wardrobe item, make-up colour, nail polish, or hair colour:

1. Earth Tones

Earth tones have been coming down the runway for years so the writing was on the wall. Finally, a long time since their last fashion moment, earth tones are mainstream at retail. They are THE palette for the season.

Think spice colours and all sorts of browns like mustard, turmeric, curry, rust, burnt orange, cognac, chestnut, saddle, toffee, coffee, cinnamon, milk chocolate, dark chocolate, tan, sand, taupe, khaki, stone, maize, oxblood, burgundy, bronze, tortoiseshell, gold, and animal patterns in these earthy shades.

2. Greens

It’s not about blue — it’s about green and in all its renditions. Colours as light as mint, moss, and sage are as trendy as bright emerald, lime and apple green. British racing green is fab and so are teals with their bluish tinge. Any shade of olive and forest green is great too, although I think of those as earth tones.

3. Purple and Fuchsia

Purple is there in pastel lilacs and mid-tone lavenders, blue shades of periwinkle, rich renditions of orchid, and dark shades of cranberry and eggplant. There is fuchsia, which is a lot more pink than purple, but not quite shocking pink. It’s a warm cousin to orchid, a statement stain of beetroot, and rather yummy.

4. Bright Red

Many, many collections continue to highlight bright shades of red worn head-to-toe, or as a distinctive accent. Think warm shades of orange-y tomato red, and cooler shades of fire engine and Christmas red. Red was remixed with every neutral and non-neutral because it works with everything.

5. Neon

The ‘80s continue to influence current trends, which accounts for some neon coming through. Neon brights in yellow, pink, green, orange and blue are there, but as a fringe trend, and often as an accessory, trim or sneaker. Though head-to-toe neon is not a bad thing, and was represented too.

I like the colours for the season. I’m not a big wearer of earth tones and animal print, but enjoy shades of cinnamon and cognac leather worn with sour brights, dark blue, light blue, and shades of white. Gold is my metal. Apple green is one of my favourite colours, and I’m all over bright shades of red. I adore shocking pink so fuchsia has to be bright if I’m going to wear it. As an ‘80s devotee, I like neon and hope citron (= citrus + neon) comes back with a vengeance. What I like best about the season’s palette is that I’ll happily remix clashing colours, cool tones with warm tones, and all sorts of brights, which means busloads of versatility and little chance of wardrobe orphans.

Over to you. What do you think of the season’s colours?

Eloquii Moto Jacket

Acne Studios Onita Hairy Alpaca Outerwear

Asymmetric Pleated Skirt