So - made it to Montreal but had to cut off the QC portion and came home after 4 days. My family is still up there.
Best thing we did was take a 3 hour bike tour of the north end of the city. ( I am so impressed how bike-friendly Montreal is, and wish every American city mayor and urban planner would go and take this bike ride...) Upon request the guide took me to Leonard Cohen's house, and we saw the huge mural of LC that was painted recently nearby. The murals everywhere are really so cool.
We got bagels at St. Viatur -quite unique. Also stopped by Marche Jean-Talon - loved! Made me wish we were in an AirBnB instead of a hotel so I could buy some of those gorgeous fruits and vegetables. No poutine or smoked meat this trip.
I disliked the touristy old city - could tell that side streets had shops and restaurants that looked interesting, but couldn't take the crowds on a Sunday. My son and I did have breakfast at Olive & Gourmando in that area on Monday morning- it was good, and has a hip vibe, with windows full of flowers, open onto the quiet side street
Just missed the circus festival!
I love Montreal- what a happening and lively city. I had no idea what to expect, and was delighted from the moment we drove into town in the dark on Saturday night. Will definitely go back for a longer stay next time.
Thanks again for all the great advice!