What makes it the "good cashmere"?

Jeanie

Busting out my old J Crew cashmere socks for the annual Holiday Art Hop since it's about 25F & snowy here. They are tan argyle with rust, brown and yellow. The socks are about 10 years old but are the thickest, warmest socks I own...super cozy. They are thick and don't seem to pill which had me wondering if they are the "good cashmere" that is fabled here on YLF. So I am wondering what makes something the "good cashmere"? Is it the thickness of the yarn that is used? How to you tell how to buy the better cashmere? Do you rely on feel the thickness? I took a picture of the back of the socks as well. As a knitter, seeing how something is woven makes me giddy.

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12 years ago

Dressing

11 replies

Latest reply was from Jeanie

Joyce B

Veteran

I rely on the feel, put it on my face and neck to see how it feels. Also, I rub them a bit against each other to make sure it will not peel. Cashmere does not need to be thick to be warm, but of you like it warmer then you can get a thicker one. I think thick cashmere socks may not hold up to wear as well as thinner ones, unless they are a blend and then it depends on what the blend is.
The finish of the wrong side does not look great but I suppose it is holding up well...

12 years ago

annagybe

(website)

Veteran

Best - Scottish.
Next best - Mongolian.

12 years ago

Diana

Veteran

The tightness of the gauge is probably the best determinant of durability, plus of course it should feel great against the skin.

If we're getting technical here, a cable-plied yarn (see the link for explanation) is probably the most durable, as the yarn itself is more tightly spun. If you've ever knit with singles yarn you know it's a pill machine. The more tightly the plies of the yarn are twisted together, and the tighter the gauge of the knit, the less pilling there should be. Cashmere fiber itself is more fragile than most other wools. Many lightweight cashmere sweaters sold commercially are made with very fragile single or double-ply yarn, so it's not surprising they pill and sprout holes! I tend to avoid featherweight cashmere for this reason as well, unless it's a blend.

http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATwhyply.html

12 years ago

CocoLion

(website)

Veteran

Gosh I have no idea. I have cheap cashmere ($70 from TJ Maxx's Cynthia Rowley brand cardigan) that has held up very well. I have expensive cashmere blends that have pilled horribly (my recent Vince thread). All I know is a blend that is very soft to the touch has a higher probability of pilling than a pure fabrication. I will follow this thread to see what other wisdom forum members have to offer. Thanks for starting the thread.

12 years ago

Diana

Veteran

By the way, this is somewhat tangential, but since you mentioned you knit and love seeing the clever ways color work is done....

Have you seen this pattern in the most recent Knitty? It's such a clever way to recreate plaid with a combo of knitting and rudimentary weaving! I really want to try it!
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEw13/FEATw13SIT.php

12 years ago

carter

Veteran

Great question. I have no idea what the answer may be, so I'm hoping you get lots of responses.

12 years ago

rae

(website)

Veteran

Yep to what Anna said; I've pulled out Scottish cashmere at the flea market over 30 years old, and it still looked new.

12 years ago

dustt

Veteran

I'll agree with Anna and Rae as well on the Scottish and Mongolian cashmere. I have a Scottish sweater that I nicked from my Dad that is at least 40 years old and going strong - it is the softest, warmest piece of clothing I've ever had. Johnston's of Elgin. I could never afford to replace it!! I have a couple of older Ralph Lauren Cable Cashmeres that have held up remarkably well - and they are almost as silky soft as the Johnston's. To my mind - it's a feel thing, I can go to the flea market or consignment store and I feel for those that remind me of my Dad sweater. I also buy cashmere from ebay - but only from a few known brands. Brooks Brothers, Lyle & scott, I have found that a silk cashmere blend is remarkably hardy and soft as well and it pills much less. It is however, not nearly as lofty.

12 years ago

ironkurtin

Veteran

I follow the rub test. I hold the item up in my fingers in a part that won't show and rub briskly. If it pills or looks funky, it's not good stuff and I pass.

I also like Italian cashmere.

@Cocolion - Cynthia Rowley is a real brand, not TJ Maxx's brand!
http://www.cynthiarowley.com/

12 years ago

rachylou

Veteran

I think Diana took care of the answer. I suppose in terms of shopping, when you look and touch, you can tell by the lack of fuzziness and the strength of the "fabric."

12 years ago

Jeanie

Veteran

OK, writing down Scottish, Mongolian and Italian. Do the rub test and feel test and check for too much fuzziness. I knew you all would have great answers!

Diana, I suspected tighter gauge might have something to do with quality. The socks are very tightly woven compared to some loosely woven cashmere sweaters I have that pill terribly. I loved reading about plies as I am a registered fiber addict :). I haven't seen that plaid pattern....so cool! I am beyond excited to try it though I am no where near your knitting skill level & I haven't done much color work. I love the idea of combining knitting and weaving. I am always so close to buying a loom. This pattern should hold me off a bit!

dustt - your dad's sweater sounds perfect. You should post a pic sometime. I would love to see it.

12 years ago

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