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Small Wardrobes and Weather Fluctuations?

E

Veteran

Lately I've been thinking about wardrobe building, as I've finally got a sewing machine set up & am about to embark on my first skirt. I'm happy in a limited amount of silhouettes, and as a sewist I can easily see myself making the same patterns over and over, just varying the fabric. Over time, I can imagine replacing most of my store bought clothes, especially the wovens, with sewn ones that fit better. As fabric costs far more than thrifted clothes, this would lead to a smaller wardrobe, right? So I sat down to make a list so I could envision a future, more customised wardrobe, with the intention of keeping it small. And I immediately ran into a problem.

I want to wear wool and silk and flannels and corduroys and velvets in cold weather and linens and cotton/silk blends and cotton voiles in hot weather. Leaving aside the fashion-y seasonal associations such as plaids with f/w and eyelet with s/s, or that I prefer different colours in different seasons, different fibers have different properties and simply work better in different weather. How does that work with having a small, versatile closet?

For instance a grey fit-and-flare dress would be an all-year staple for me: I could wear it on its own in the summer, with a cardi in the spring, jacket in the fall, and over a sweater in the winter. Great, multitasking! Except...I'd want to wear unlined linen in the summer. And lined wool in the winter. And of course, if I were wearing it a dressy event, I'd feel best if it were silk. So suddenly I need 3 grey dresses? I can see my imaginary closet getting out of control already!

I'm genuinely curious about what people do when they prefer a smaller closet: is there a year-round fiber I'm unaware of? Do you make the 3 grey dresses the only ones you have? Do you pick an 'average' fabric instead and just not worry about it?

General

35 replies

Latest reply was from Lisa

Aida

Veteran

E, I think our climates dictate a lot of it. That gray lined wool dress could be worn in my climate much of the year, while the unlined linen dress would have a short window because we don't get the heat for it; whereas you would definitely get more wear out of the linen dress in the Texas heat! Even though my seasonal variation is slight, I enjoy changing the fabrics up per season. This is part of why I have difficulty with winterizing/summerizing dresses -- the fabric usually dictates the season!

That said, much of my wardrobe sees me through much of the year. Denim and cotton sweaters are a backbone, and those can be worn pretty much all year for me. Silk can also be worn year-round here, and though I don't have a lot of it I would love to get more. Beyond that I mix in chunkier knits for winter and lighter/openweave knits for summer; the silks get more sheer for warm weather; pants thinner and more lightweight (and unlined).

I wonder if you could find a 3-season lightweight wool, or perhaps a lighter cotton-blend for your "most seasons" dress? I'm not sure if you'll be able to get away with a single gray dress for all seasons. It might be fun to have more summery details on the summer one, anyway. Perhaps you'll end up with two small versatile closets, one for F/W and one for S/S with a few items that can be worn in the transitional periods to help bridge the two.

Anonymous

I think to beauty of sewing is that you can have exactly what you need for each season. Like a grey wool dress with sleeves (and lining) for F/W and a cream (or lighter grey) linen sleeveless one for S/S. I still think that would be fairly minimal. I know what you mean though, the world of possibilities that sewing opens up can be pretty overwhelming--almost like there are too many choices. Maybe you can check out what fabric is actually available and that can help you make your decision.

Gigi

Veteran

I hope I'm understanding this right...but what I would do is plan on matching the seasonal color with the seasonal fabric. For instance, say you like to wear black for fall and winter. So you would make one of the fit-and-flares in heavy wool that is black. And if you like to wear lighter colors for spring and summer, I would make another fit-and-flare in cream or pink cotton, etc. I don't know that there's a way to make a single dress do duty for all year; I think you would need at least two versions of each pattern, a heavy-fabric one and a light-fabric one. And if you have to make two versions of each pattern, I would think that you might as well change colors while you're at it.

Perhaps a possibility would be some type of removable lining for at least skirts—not sure how that would work for dresses, as they might get bulky. Then you could wear the skirt in the warmer and cooler months. However, doing a removable lining sounds like it would probably be pretty advanced work if you are just starting out. (I can barely thread a needle, so take that for what it's worth!)

Diana

Veteran

Well I know that Angie says those of us who live in 4-season climates need at minimum one capsule wardrobe for each season. There can be some crossover but I think the best you can do is a 3-season item.

So I think if I were you is focus on my dominant season (guessing summer for Texas) and make more items for spring/summer/autumn and fewer for deep winter. But you can't neglect winter altogether or you'll freeze!

One thing you might be able to do is make under-dresses in a heavier fabric in lieu of lining the outer dress. Sort of like a petticoat, I guess.

rabbit

Veteran

Sometimes I think you can just split the difference. I have a dark cotton and spandex knit dress that I wore in winter (although not in snow or extreme cold) with fleece lined leggings and boots and cardigans over it. In summer I can wear it with bare legs, and although the material is mid-weight, the airflow and cotton make it comfortable on warm days.

MsLuna

Veteran

I primarily have a 80% knit wardrobe, with the exception of my jeans, my denim jacket and a modern black collarless blazer. I find that my knits (my tunics are cotton/linen blend or rayon) can take me from summer to winter with the help of layering. My frocks are primarily knit too, and my jersey dresses are seasonless as well, provided that I wear tights in the colder climate and layer it with a thicker cardi or fall/winter weight jacket. I'm not sure of you're comfortable sewing knits (I personally love them and bought a serger specifically for sewing knits) but perhaps that's something to consider.

I don't intend to keep much of my wardrobe the exact same from summer to fall to winter. I'd likely be swapping lightweight fabrics and my shorts for heavier fabrics and pants (or skirts). The one thing I'd swap out are toppers because they are heavier in cooler weather and lighter in warmer weather. I'd also swap out (silk or lightweight woven) dresses for structured ponte knits (because non-fluid women's are uncomfortable for me).

Also, what Diana said: I layer an underdress or slip under my dresses in cooler seasons. It really helps with the warmth.

MuseumGal

Veteran

E, my experience is that sewing regularly has greatly enlarged my wardrobe, not shrunk it! Although I've had quite a few duds, once I find something I really like and that fits well, I make the damn thing half a dozen times in different fabrics and patterns. I've got things I made 20 years ago that I still wear regularly. Sewing is more expensive than thrifting for sure, but once you have all your basics, it's not that expensive to purchase just the amount of fabric you need, especially if you wait for sales and such, and already have a stash of thread, etc. BTW, garage sales are a great place to find Great Aunt Edna's enormous sewing basket for $1.50, chock full of goodies.

Do make your first project out of some very inexpensive material - sheets from Goodwill are a good thing to practice on. Find one in a color you like and then if the project is a success, you have a skirt you like, and if it isn't, well, it was only a sheet that you spent a buck on.

JAileen

Veteran

If your goal is a small wardrobe, you could work with tropic weight wool. I wore it year round when I lived on the Gulf Coast. In winter, when the weather is mild you could wear a lighter top and a jacket if necessary. When it is colder you could wear a sweater and a coat. I didn't even have a real winter coat there, just a trench coat with a liner.
I would be leery about making winter clothes too heavy. Most homes and offices are heated in Texas.

fieldmouse

I don't strive for a small wardrobe per se, more a practical, streamlined, adequate, no-excess one (but still made up of clothes I love and enjoy wearing!). Where I live, it can get down to -20C (or worse) in winter and +30C in summer, not to mention everything in between. A 10-item minimalist wardrobe, even if I wanted one, is just not possible, no matter how skilled at layering one is. And like you, I have different preferences for different seasons, both in fabrics and colours (lighter in the summer, darker in spring and autumn, quite dark in winter). Not to mention that I don't drive, I walk and take the public transport. So I think of my wardrobe in terms of weather capsules. I've divided it into 3 seasons: summer, spring-autumn and winter (of course there's also some carry-over between seasons, so the capsules are not entirely separate). I don't have an exact count, but right now, each capsule is made up of about 20-30 items (includes shoes, but not hats, scarves, gloves), and I'm probably going to pare down a bit further in the future. So it's a compromise between small and practical (for my life).

Sal

Veteran

About half my wardrobe is wearable all year and half is seasonal. I actually like this as I can have a different vibe for different seasons. In summer I am more colourful. In winter I am more moody in my dress and tend to more make up, more "done" hair and darker shades.

In my true workhorse section (virtual) are the following items
Jeans (5)
Pencil skirt (1)
Maxi skirt (1)
Work trousers (2)
two-three smart work dresses
two blazers/jackets
two-three casual sweaters
several t-shirts
layering tanks
belts
converse/sneakers/ankle boots

In summer I add dresses, shorts and light weight skirts.
In winter heavy knits, jackets and coats, one wool skirt.
Gear and evening wear and shoes are truly trans seasonal for me.

fuzzylogic

Veteran

If I had any talent for sewing my wardrobe would be seriously squooshed! As it is, I have a basic machine..... but I still haven't put thread on the bobbin....... Red cheeks AND googly eyes.

gryffin

Veteran

E - I think you have to decide on what small is for you. Also your silk dress would also be party of your dressy capsule, so I mentally kind of put that in a different place. If you enjoy different fabrics for different seasons, you might limit your color palate like you allude to with gray being your dominant. If you then make make the compatible pieces with colors that go, maybe another neutral and an accent (you don't need to be rigid) is "all-seasons" types of weight for the most part, that would streamline things. Most of my wardrobe skews three seasons - I keep the really heavy and really like to a minimum, but I do have some pieces for the extremes, just not alot. I think it's all in how well your pieces mix and choosing middle weight fabrics for the majority that would help you keep numbers down and keep it efficient. PS kudos on being to talented!! Not an option for me!!

Suz

(website)

Veteran

I like what gryffin says about mentally putting "dressy" in another capsule entirely. Special occasion wear is just that.

I also think that what counts as minimal varies depending on climate. If you live in a temperate place you might be able to get away with one item and layer (or de-layer) as temps. permit. But in an extreme climate this becomes much harder. At the same time, gryffin's also right that you can keep a portion of the wardrobe adaptable even in an extreme climate.

If you're still planning to move, I'd wait until you've lived a year in the new climate before making absolute decisions on numbers, etc. You need to see how it feels. I don't know about you, but when I am in the midst of our winters I can't imagine ever wearing light silk or linen again -- yet when our summer comes around, I do!

Alassë

Veteran

3 things: Since you're moving, I think you do need a cold-weather wardrobe separate from the warm-weather section for skirts & dresses. 2, I put special occasion items in separate section in my mental tally. 3, I understand completely the love of different fabrics. I want to wear corduroy, but that gets rather hot in summer, and somehow plaid doesn't feel right then - and forget wool completely.

What I've done is gotten a skirt in winter fabrications (like a corduroy pencil), then chosen to wear it on all but the hottest days of summer. Wool skirts are specifically kept for fall winter, where they (unfortunately) expand the skirt capsule. Most of my skirts are light summer or 3-season, which I wear with slips in winter, but that leaves you less warm in the summery ones.

Anyhow...I'm guessing you may have to have 2 wardrobes since you love textures so much.

Thistle

Veteran

So, I am not a wardrobe minimalist. Part of it is because I don't love to do laundry so I want enough that I only need to do it every 2 weeks or so, and part of it is my climate. Much like you, I cannot wear wool in the summer, but I need warm heavy pieces in the winter. As in it got down to -45 for a few days this winter.

Perhaps in a more moderate climate it is a bit easier. As it is not 100 in the summer and -45 in the winter.

I switch my clothes in and out several times a year. My closet was chock full of cashmere, merino wool, and cable sweaters. Now they are all stored to make room for cotton knits, linen blends, and silk (well, silk if I didn't have a 2 year old).

E

Veteran

Thanks to everyone for leaving comments. I suppose I should have made it a bit more clear that I wasn't so much looking for a solution to my own dilemma (definitely starting with linen & we'll go from there! hehe) or planning to immediately downsize my substantial wardrobe as curious what small wardrobe people do. I see all those lists about the 'ten basics,' but would you expect to wear them year round or have two versions, one for warmer weather and one for cooler?

Thnx for such a long reply Aida! Very helpful, and yes I'll start with the linen dress (although with any luck I'll be able to move soon to a much colder climate). If I didn't love wool so much, I think I could make do with cotton too…except for hot weather my trousers can't be tight, but I prefer skinnies when I can wear them, so I end up having to duplicate all of that too. Interesting to think about though!

Claire, that is the beauty of sewing! Assuming I can master it. There are so many beautiful fabrics out there, it's probably a good thing my budget won't stretch to most of them!

Gigi, you understood it perfectly. Interesting that you'd do two colours! I wear mid-grey year around, and it mixes with every single other colour in the my wardrobe, so that's why I thought of it when I was imagining maximum versatility. But I do shift colours otherwise. A removeable lining for the skirt would be pretty easy: just make a slip.

Diana, oh I like the petticoat idea! Like a fancier slip, hehe. And it'd be another potentional for layering. Thnx for letting me know what Angie said; so I guess even minimal closets probably do a seasonal shift? Just have a smaller amount in each category? And yes, for Texas summer is sadly dominant, but hopefully I'll be moving up north soon. Even if I moved tomorrow I'd be set for winter though, because my love of wool knows no bounds!

Rabbit, that's a good point re: cotton & tights/bare legs!

KatieKat, I prefer woven dresses/blouses except in cold weather, because they keep me cooler and let me get away with not wearing a bra. But I'm going to try sewing knits soon, because I need new undies! Thnx so much for letting me know your approach, as I know you're one of the closet minimalists.

MG, I think I'm going to have to learn pattern drafting as well as sewing: have you seen what patterns cost?! It's crazy! At least I know I would use it over and over again, but a $20 pattern is two months of my thrifting budget on its own. So sewing would limit my wardrobe that way. I'm fine with that, because I'll be able to do nice fabrics & quality construction so that I know it'll last, but it'll be an adjustment for sure. And I already picked up some sheets from Goodwill to practice on. Great minds think alike!

JAileen, I actually don't use my heater, because I like the cold! hehe But yes, I don't get to wear my 'real' winter clothes very often (this past winter was an exception). I'm hoping to move to a colder, four season climate soon, but in the meantime I'll definitely be sticking to warm weather fabrics.

Fieldmouse, thnx so much for sharing your perspectives & solutions! That's exactly what I was curious about (as I'm hoping to move to a similar climate myself soon, albeit with a small 30+ window, and will also be car-free). 20-30 items/season sounds like a good size.

Kiwigal, I like having different seasonal vibes too! I'm more boho in summer, because I don't want anything touching my skin. Lighter colours too. I loved hearing your breakdown between year round core/seasonal variations.

Fuzzylogic, I tried to put a bobbin in and almost broke the machine! lol My mom had to fix it for me. *cough*

Gryffin, I'm not talented yet, but I'm going to try! I figure if I can just make 4 pieces (blouse, skirt, dress, trousers) over and over, I'll be set. Luckily I've got time to make mistakes/figure things out. In my head, I can easily limit my wardrobe, but then when I start listing it out hypothetically, I start thinking oh and there's that texture and that colour and that pattern…and pretty soon I have (hypothetically) 20 skirts just to keep me happy. Sigh. I'm going to need to work on self control.

Suz, I am still planning on moving, but it's been delayed again. Things can get so complicated! I don't think I'll ever have a minimal wardrobe (unless, God forbid, my current closet was ompletely destroyed and I had to rebuild from scratch), but I do feel like a sprawling closet isn't completely commensurate with my values/life style. The question is where to find the balance! Good point re: waiting a year to see; I'm not a fast culler, so I won't make any drastic decisions. Luckily I love wool, so I won't mind spending several months encased in it. hehe

Alasse, my cold weather wardrobe is pretty much already in place, due to my inability to ignore $2 woolens at the thrift store. hehe I just folded up all of my wool skirts (and my one corduroy one) and put them away since I won't be touching them for months: that's definitely half my skirt capsule right there. Yes, I think my love for texture (and colour) is going to be the real challenge in trying to shrink my wardrobe gradually over time. Thnx for sharing your solutions!

Ledonna N.

Veteran

I have also gravitated to a year round wardrobe. I do not sew but everthing I have can be layered or mixed and matched so that I can have multiple options I hope this helps.

MuseumGal

Veteran

Patterns regularly go on sale for 1 or 2 bucks at places like Joanne, you just have to watch the sales. You can also start with Quick Sews which are something like 3 or 4 bucks. But for something like a 6 gore skirt, or a circle skirt, or an A-line skirt, you can find a tutorial online to draft your own pattern to your own measurements. You can use regular brown paper bags for pattern paper. Cut them open, iron them flat, and tape together if needed.

unfrumped

Veteran

Well, I don't think many people can have a 10-item wardrobe in a 4-season climate, except for creative math where layering turtlenecks, leggings, sweaters and so on aren't counted, and different occasions aren't counted.

I have been trying to do kind of 3-season items for work plus smaller numbers of additional items for "deep winter" and "high summer". Indoors even in August I freeze but the drive to and fro in hot car is problematic, or errands, and I want more washable things,even though in theory I can wear my tropical wool pants all year in the A/C.. In winter I really like being toasty, and while I do some layering, sometimes I find that too constricting, not as comfortable as a single chunky warm sweater.
I have been able to extend skirt wear with opaque tights and fleece tights. Not all my skirts "go" with black tights but most do, for that reason or I would not be able to wear them enough times during the year to be practical and have decetn CPW for my investment (or vice versa, not all skirts look right for summer but several do, if paired with lighter tops and footwear--prints or checks are good for this).

I think your questions are realistic--so for example, I wear tops in gray, black, and burgundy/berry colors ( and other colors and prints as well) so I have heavy chunky wool for the polar vortex, several weights and fabric blends for 3 season, light rayon blend or cotton knit tops for July-August, some silk wovens.

mrseccentric

(website)

Veteran

Great question! i have to read the thread later, but like Aida said - it all depends on your climate. I live across the bay and thru the tunnel from San Francisco. I have a couple of linen sleeveless dresses i can wear all year. In hothothot (95-100+ F) it stands on it's own. At our coldest i layer it up - longsleeved tee underneath (microfibre or wool), cashmere cardi on top, wool leggings or tights and a silk slip underneath, then i add some type of jacket on top and then my down coat if needed. All those layers can play in all types of variations (cotton tank, over the knee socks, etc.) as needed per the weather.

In the end, the only way to figure out these kind of conundrums is to get some pieces you think thru that should work and try them out. See how they actually work or not, and use that info to move forward. Let's face it, what works perfectly for your best friend next door may drive you nuts due to differences in personal style, personal comfort (itchiness levels, compression tolerance), what you do for work, and so on. Especially when you're trying to downsize your closet, getting what you really want and love out of each piece is so important that you have to do your own experimentation.

That said, these types of threads are simply invaluable for inspiration and new ways of looking at things. They can really help a person see the forest, not just the trees! Looking forward to reading all this after i get back from errands, steph

p.s. one of the dresses in question

ETA: altho it gets super hot here, we only get snow once every few years on the highest peaks. It freezes a few times a winter, so i can 'get away' with wearing a mid to heavy weight linen in winter with layers. HTH!

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Jenny H

Veteran

I love this post! A lot caught my eye and I may come back later and add more thoughts but for now I want to sing the praises of knit merino wool. I live in a climate with four true seasons. Snow and ice in winter and very hot and humid in summer (high 90 degrees F very very common). I also try to keep a small wardrobe. But I've been wearing knit merino wool all year round (brands like Icebreaker, Ibex and the like). I am interested in sewing some dresses out of this type of fabric and if I did, I would expect to be able to wear them year round (although with other clothing layered on top and/or underneath in the coldest weather).

Aida

Veteran

Oh I forgot about merino wool! Great mention. I wear my fine merino wool sweaters pretty much year round, same as my cottons, except during the hottest and coldest times.

E

Veteran

LadyWone, I'm a big fan of layering too. I suspect much of my issue is being a wool-lover in a hot climate, hehe.

MG, good to know! If only the cute indie designers had 99 cent sales too. I've found several v helpful full skirt tutorials: decided to do a dirdnl this time, but I want a circle one too (I saw a scrumptious corduroy one that's going to haunt me). Thnx for the bag rec: I'd seen newspaper mentioned, but I hate newsprint so that seemed like a terrible idea! I'm going to try to find a basic princess seam dress pattern like you linked to earlier, hopefully for sale, and adapt that. (I came across the most beautiful wispy double-layered silk wrap skirt in a burgundy/berry-ish Asian feeling floral print by Oscar de la Renta while thrifting today and thought of you & your sari collection! It didn't come home with me, as it looked terrible, but I did consider buying it just to pet it.)

Unfrumped, lol @ creative math! I would cry if I had to have a 10 item wardrobe, except for when I travel. I loved hearing your solutions, so thanks so much! And I'm relieved to hear you also have your favourite colours in multiple weights/fabrics. Now if only I could narrow down my favourites to three!

Mrs Eccentric, it definitely depends on climate! I've been doing a lot of experimentation, and I've pretty much settled on my ideal formulas for various weather scenarious: the problem now is that these formulas require different components. And I like having colour/texture variations too, so if I could suddenly make clothes from all the different fabrics out there, it would be hard for me to know when to stop. I see that now in rtw: thnx to thrifting, I've accumulated many high quality pieces that I adore (my trouser collection being an exception: I'm always compromising on fit in that department *sigh*), in my favourite colours and shapes/styles, but I have so many that none get worn super frequently. I don't plan to cull them for the sake of numbers, as they all fit nicely in my closet. Just thinking about future strategies, really. I love your style btw & read your blog (can't remember if I've said that before?)! It's so nice to see how others deal with the heat.

Thnx Jenny! I read about summer merino wool and tried wearing my merino cardis in warmer weather and felt miserable. Maybe they were too thick? I did thrift a very lightweight merino sweater a couple of months ago and that's worked better, although I haven't tried it since the heat really arrived a couple weeks ago. Anyway, I lurve wool, so I'd be thrilled to be able to wear it in summer!

Aida, are yours finer than regular wool sweaters? Mine are the same weight, just softer, and I don't care for them in the heat. I'll pull out my thin one and try, as the highs are only high 80s/90 this week and it's been cloudier.

Aida

Veteran

They feel just like a soft cotton, really. I don't know where that falls in the finery of woolens. My "warm weather" is, like, high 70s though

E

Veteran

Oh sorry I meant fine as in lightweight, not fine as in fancy/soft. And high 70s as wool-friendly warm weather makes more sense! I can get away with all wool outfits any time the high is below 70. hehe

mrseccentric

(website)

Veteran

hi E! "... so if I could suddenly make clothes from all the different fabrics out there, it would be hard for me to know when to stop."

well, all i can say is that for me in reality i am very very slow at actually producing garments, so it isn't a problem here!! heehe! But there's ladies out there who just whip things out and DO have that problem of 'overproduction' - maybe start sewing and see how it goes? If you start sewing too 'fast', try doing everything by hand!

Have a great evening - and Thank You!! steph

Rebecca Mielke

I am so happy to have found this thread! I live in a 4 season climate and have a tiny closet. This past winter I kept all my summer stuff in my closet, thinking that layering it would give me more options, and never used any of it.

Hope that helps!

Anonymous

E, I would have to have mostly separate capsules for each season. The only overlap might be a denim skirt, pencil skirts in non-seasonal fabrics, sheer long sleeved shirts/blouses, and non-seasonal blazers. Many in this list would only be for well air conditioned rooms in summer. I lived for several years in Southern California and could actually have a small wardrobe that was worn year round. No way could this happen in Kansas.

Diana

Veteran

I just posted this on Ingunn's thread about repeating outfits, but it's relevant here too. This woman wore the same outfit for an entire year, so I guess it is possible to have a very (VERY) small wardrobe for all seasons. Her top was an icebreaker tee, to the point made above about merino. Bottom was jeans. I'm not sure where she lived though.

http://helloimnadia.com/post/6.....for-a-year

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