Thank you all for your wise words! I wrote this summary of the article for those that missed the gift link before I read your latest comments and am gratified to see that you have already mentioned many of my points. Italics are direct quotes from the article and the rest are my summary and editorial comments.
1. Smell things! Especially imho leather and fur (real or otherwise).
2. Touch things. I can pretty much tell fabric composition by touch by now. Key quote: Put the fabric on your palm and quickly rub your finger back and forth across it. “If it’s silk, it’ll get hot very quickly,”
3. Bend the shoe. This is really important. Many shoes look ok, but are about to crumble. Soles can be replaced but shoes that have sat in the back of the closet unworn for years can look great but fall apart very quickly.
4. Check the tags. Tags have tons of information - and the style of tag can roughly indicate when the item was made. I do not buy anything without looking at the fabric tags.
5. Carry a tide pen. Well this tip is a bit dubious because I am not sure it is ok to tide pen items that don't belong to you, but use your discretion.
6. use a lead swab test. This is beyond my ken but this is what the article says: Not everything will conveniently radiate danger. But you can carry instant lead swab tests (they look like Q-tips) while antiquing to help you figure out on the spot if the cool set of painted plates you found might leech lead into your dinner.
7. Examine the rim of glassware.
8. Freeze your knitwear for 48 hours to kill any moth issues.
9. Put your items in the sun. Be prepared to be patient. “It can take a year or more to thoroughly get odor” out, Ramey says. And resist the temptation to try to speed up the process by sending stinky finds to the dry cleaner. That “bakes that smell in,” she says. “You have to do a lot of your own leg work before you can actually take it to the dry cleaner.” I personally would not have this kind of patience and avoid smelly items.
10. Look at accessories that are one size fits all like bags, scarves and belts. I would add sunglasses and jewelry. Also it might pay to ask what is behind the counter - many thrift stores do not leave their jewelry and other small items out (too easy to shoplift).
10. Be realistic about what repairs you will actually do. Ouch, but so true.