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Thinking about "cost of ownership" of clothing items

Chris987

Veteran

I've been on a mission to curb my tendency to buy clothes that are very inexpensive and poor quality. I know the difference most of the time between good and poor quality, but I get sloppy about my choices. I've done a lot of soul searching about why I do this, but ultimately I need to find a way to curb it. I think I've finally found a way of thinking about it will do it. It's about "cost of ownership", similar to the way you think about the overall cost of owning a car.

For clothing, other than the actual purchase price, the cost of ownership is mostly about time spent. You spend time driving to stores or hunting online, trying on, building outfits, deciding. Then you spend time cleaning, ironing, mending. You spend time deciding when to part ways with it and taking the time to give it away. You do ALL of that regardless of item cost or number of wears or how you feel wearing it. If you end up with just a few wears because the quality is poor, then the cost of ownership eclipses the actual value you got from it. Or to say another way, you spent/wasted a lot of time. I hate wasting time, as most of us do, so I'm hoping this realization helps me change my ways

My recent example is a white knit tunic with a sheer embroidered overlay that I bought in April at TJMAXX for $25. Really pretty, summery, and a good fit, in a brand I had never heard of. I posted a pic here of it three months ago and it is still in my finds. I knew the quality was questionable because the overlay was uneven and the embroidery was kind of sloppy but I ignored my questioning. In hindsight, I can actually see those issues in the find picture. I usually wash white tops after each wearing, and the 1st time I washed it it came out ok. After the 2nd washing the overlay got twisted and scrunched so much that the whole thing was unwearable. (I washed it on delicate cycle in a mesh bag both times).So only wore it twice. Then I wanted to replace it because it made for a couple of really nice outfits. I ordered a similar top as a replacement in the NAS order I'm now waiting for. So DOUBLE the cost of ownership!

There can be good reasons to buy inexpensive or lower quality items, and I am not judging anyone else's choices. I'm also totally on board with the overall hi-low approach, and I know that some good brands make mistakes occasionally. I am just tired of continuing to make this mistake and ending up with stuff in my closet that looks and feels cheap and unpleasant. I am making a resolution to only buy brands that I know are good quality. For me, this also means spending more $$ per item and buying fewer of them.

Maybe this resonates with some of you?

Shopping

31 replies

Latest reply was from Helen11

Anonymous

It resonates with me. I try to buy quality whenever possible for all the reasons you discuss.

Anonymous

Yes it does .

Elizabeth P

Veteran

There's nothing more frustrating than something not surviving one ash. I had a few tees twist really badly last year, I was so disappointed. One of them I liked to much that before I washed it, I was wishing I'd got it in more colours, I liked the fit and feel so much. Now I go into that first wash with great trepidation, esp with more expensive pieces!

Gigi

Veteran

Yes, this resonates with me. I have had it happen that I get an item that I like, and after one or two washes, it is so stretched out or washed out colorwise that I'm embarrassed to wear it. Sometimes I get upset at myself for spending a lot of money on higher-end clothing, but those items almost always hold up to wash after wash and look good for quite a while after I've bought them.

I am very picky about my style and fit, so it takes me a long time to find just the right item. When I find that item, I need it to last, because shopping for a replacement will take a lot of time and effort.

I think that if you like a lot of closet turnover, then lower-end items are more desirable, because they wear out sooner and you can find a replacement that is to your current liking. But I like to have a relatively stable wardrobe with well-loved pieces, so I try to buy things that look like they will last.

jenanded

Veteran

Yes I agree. But it worries me more when they are mid range brands which are not cheap. I am finding I steer away from what are otherwise cute things and nice brands... case in point the knit hoodie I am wearing now - 129$ (got it on a regular discount promotion but still )... I think I have washed it gently once and wearing it the sleeves and elbiws are bagging and the body is pilling. This is not the first time this has happened with this very well known brand in Australia. I commiserate... and am starting to run out of options!

Colette

Veteran

Oh yes, this resonates with me. And I hope/think I've learned my lesson. But, spending more money doesn't always mean better quality. Didn't Angie write a blog about this?

Suz

(website)

Veteran

My grandmother was a seamstress. My mother knew how to sew and sewed a lot of our clothes when I was a child, although she wasn't terribly fond of sewing. (Not like our neighbour, who was incredibly creative, like Firecracker and Diane!) I learned to sew, but didn't care for it. But all girls my age had to take a cooking and sewing class. I hated it at the time, but I do think I learned the characteristics of better made clothing, and which fabrics would be durable, and so on , and this helped ma lot with smart purchasing, particularly when I was in my 20s and on a very tight budget.

I also used to scout out Holts and Creeds...I could not buy there but I could see the quality and compare.

Having said all that -- for years I still had a tendency to buy cheaper clothing (or no clothing). Not necessarily badly made, but cheap. I think I did it because I wanted the thrill of a little "present" to myself but I didn't want to spend too much. i figured style was something you had, or didn't have, and I clearly didn't have it, so who did I think I was, buying nice things? And it resulted in a mismatched closet of things that didn't last or work together.

I think many women who work outside the home will spend money for quality business clothes but oftentimes those clothes bore them. But they won't spend money for casual clothes since they see those either as "frills" or for mucking around and why would you spend a lot for that?

Sally

Veteran

yes for sure. That's kind of why I like op shopping or thrift shopping. Sometimes I have got some really good quality for a steal. I do think I should just buy less and save for really good stuff.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Another point -- as you are developing your style sense, I don't think it is always wrong to buy a few inexpensive and even poorly made items if you know they are experiments. In this case, you learned from wearing that top that this type of thing works well for you and that (assuming quality) you would wear it quite often. But given this was a new style for you, it might just as well have gone the other way -- you might have decided that the style wasn't "you" and if it were very high quality or pricey you could feel guilty for not wearing it.

I think it's worth spending what your budget can bear on your core wardrobe essentials. For me, that includes current booties, jeans, turtlenecks, blazers, and the dreaded puffer coats. Plus snow boots. (Other stuff as well, but these are the things I couldn't really get dressed with out in fall/ winter).

Meanwhile, a lot of other things are fun and nice to have or nice to try -- but I don't really need them to last. Even certain things in my essentials categories -- for instance -- a navy blazer is an essential but a bright plaid one might be okay to get at H&M and if it falls apart in a year, so what? I'll get next year's floral jacquard instead.

So the trick is figuring out what your essentials are, because the cost of ownership is very high on items you'd need to replace very frequently should they wear out.

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

Interesting. Reading the title I thought of the cost of dry cleaning to maintain certain items of clothing, but at least they can be maintained. Like Sally I get many of my clothes second hand, so really the cost of maintaining is my main consideration. Or specifically is this item worthy the premium rent in my closet.

Gigi

Veteran

Suz, you have a good point about trying inexpensive versions of things that are wildcards. My first pair of bootcuts was from American Eagle and cost hardly anything. They turned out to be my most-worn bottom in the year after I bought them! That made me confident enough to buy a nicer version from WHBM, and that version has held up quite well, except that a few of the rhinestones have fallen off (Typical WHBM bling, ha ha!).

BrieN

Veteran

Yes this resonates with me. It has been at least six months that I've banned myself from TJ Maxx. I can't be trusted in there. And it's time and money and lost opportunities of finding something better quality elsewhere... I like your cost of ownership analogy. It is very annoying when the top you've depended on to complete an outfit fails and then you're a bit stuck with an orphan or two.

Anonymous

If you have something in your closet, even if it is cheap, it often mentally prevents you from finding something better because you figure you've already got it at home. And if you don't wear it because it's not quite right, for quality (or whatever else), that's a downside cost of ownership.

I'm working on this too. Thank you for the reminder.

Barbara Diane

Veteran

I have some well made workhorse items that are some of my least expensive items. So, I can't go by price. I definitely take cost of upkeep into the equation, so I'll only buy a few types of items that need to be dry cleaned. And I think twice about items that need to be hand washed because, well, I have a bag full of clothes needing hand washing that I keep avoiding washing.

skylurker

Veteran

Well, actually, shopping, maintaining etc...I would not call cost of ownership, I'd call entertainment.
That said, I try to be picky about quality too, quality items are not only more durable, they also look better.

Staysfit

Veteran

I have been someone who in the past, when I had limited funds, would purchase many fewer, but as high quality items as I could afford. For me that meant trying to purchase from quality catalogs like Eddie Bauer, Lands End, and LL Beene. Their clothing wasn't very exciting, but it was extremely durable and wore like iron. It never fit me well, but that was okay. I had clothes, and they lasted and were within my limited budget. When I finished paying off my hefty educational loans, saving for my children's education, etc. and could finally spend on myself, only then did I dare spend more on myself and make the more daring purchases you see me make here. This has been a total indulgence for me, hard earned and perhaps long coming after years of hard work. I definitely recognize the value of looking for good quality, but I will tell you that the cost of an item has absolutely nothing to do with how durable, or well it is made. The quality of some very expensive items has been very poor. Spending more money doesn't always guarantee durability. It may get you interesting details. It may get you an item that is more exclusive and that fewer people are wearing around you. More money sometimes gets you a unique fabric, or a nice color or pattern. It may purchase better design or fit. These of course are all aspects of quality to be considered, but they do not have much impact on durability, which seems to be the key factor you seek.

Bijou

Veteran

I subscribe to the hi-lo way of dressing and agree that cheaper items can be just as durable as expensive items. I also like a high turnover in my blouses and tops, so I tend to buy cheaper tops, so that refreshing this segment of my wardrobe each season is not too expensive. As Suz points out, when trying a new trend, it can be a good idea to go for a cheaper item to see if you want to wear it. I love handbags and loved the idea of a clutch, but for me with a young child I need to be able to keep my hands free, so the trial cheap imitation leather clutch was a good investment into a new trend that I subsequently found did not work too well for me and is just a sometimes piece rather than a workhorse. If I was buying a satchel or tote, I would buy the best that I can afford, because I know that in $ per wear terms, it will be an inexpensive purchase.

Astrid

Veteran

Yes, this resonates with me! I do try to pay attention to quality when I buy. Sadly the brand or the price hasn't been a good way to determine quality. A good example for this is one of many favourite brands from many years ago, Esprit. It used to be the fancy brand I bought when I wanted to invest a bit into better quality. Now prices have gone up and the quality has gone down. There are some problems when you become observant about quality though. One, my taste is basically more expensive than it should be on my budget which results in a sometimes too small wardrobe. Two, you can't really just go out and shop until you find something that fits because there is so much garbage out there in the stores.

Chris987

Veteran

Thanks ladies for the very thoughtful and helpful comments!

Thanks Sterling, LisaP, Sally

Elizabeth P I agree that the washing thing can be risky. My experience has generally been that higher quality items wash pretty well although sometimes they need hand washing. However with t-shirts it a total wild guess about whether they will twist, even in more expensive brands. It's too bad there is so much inconsistency!

Gigi totally agree with everything you said.

Jenanded yes it's frustrating isn't it!

Colette absolutely right, price does not equate to quality. That's why I'm trying to think in terms of what BRANDS are good quality plus my own ability to judge the fabrication which is pretty good when I get my hands on the garment and listen to myself. Are you thinking of Angie's "celebrating hi-low style" from June? Otherwise I see a lot of blog postings that could be the one to which you refer.

Suz..you had such a great education from a young age Both of my grandmothers were seamstresses too but I didn't get to benefit from their expertise and that skill set skipped over my Mom's generation. One grandmother worked for Fox studios making movie costumes but she lived in California and I rarely saw her. The other one lived much closer and made everything from clothing to slipcovers but died pretty young. I too had to take cooking and sewing classes and I LOVED the sewing and made a lot of my own clothes for many years so I do understand a lot about fabrics and construction. Your notion of "little presents" really hits home with me, it's been a part of my life for a long time and that's one of the things I'm trying to change. You are absolutely right that a little experimentation is ok especially when you're trying to develop a new style as I am. I just don't want to experiment with really poor quality any more...been there, done that, didn't like it There is some sort of a quality threshold I need to stay above. You are also right about essentials and mine are pretty much the same as yours since we live in similar climates.

Shevia I used to do more thrift shopping but I've sworn off it for a while because I noticed I was making poor choices there too.

BrieN...how awful to go cold turkey off TJMAXX, that must be very difficult, no joke I can see how it could be a very good idea for me to do the same. I do shop there a LOT less than I did 6 months ago and I've become VERY picky when I do go.

Delurked, exactly right. Those with well-curated closets don't have this issue.

Barbara Dianne right, price isn't necessarily a guarantee, and upkeep is definitely part of the equation. I had duplicate black slacks from Ann Klein that cost under $75 full price. I wore them weekly for several years and they always looked terrific. The dry cleaning cost FAR exceeded the purchase price but it worked. However below some price point the quality is more likely to be poor, that's what I'm trying to remember.

Skylurker HAH, entertainment! Of course it is, otherwise we wouldn't be here, would we And great point about quality items looking better, it's usually true.

Staysfit great points. I too have worn stuff from those "quality catalogs" and they just last forever. And yes, I do know that overall, price is no guarantee of quality or durability.

Bijou great comments about bags. I've done the same about the one faux leather clutch I own, bought a few months ago, perfect once in a while but not used regularly.

Astrid yes it's so annoying when a vendor's quality goes down over time. That seems to happen a LOT in recent years to so many different vendors.

Jenn

(website)

Veteran

This is really interesting, Chris. I recently started adding dry-cleaning into the cost of garments in my closet app, but I never really considered all the other costs of ownership. Odd that I never thought of that, since I run a small business and those "overhead costs" are something I think about a lot when it comes to pricing items for sale.

Like skylurker, though, I consider a lot of that entertainment. When I think, "Oooh, Saturday afternoon! I should finally have some time to muck around taking inventory in my closet!" that's a hobby rather than a chore. And even though I lean towards closet minimalism, I do realize more clothes can actually mean less time spent on laundry and maintenance.

I get a lot of satisfaction out of having just the right thing, though, so I absolutely relate to you on being tired of poor quality items bought without a lot of thought. I'm getting better at predicting which items are going to work well and which are going to become regrets, but it takes practice.

Cerinda

Veteran

It's the "time spent" acquiring appropriate items that bugs me. I don't really like shopping now, though I did when I had someone to share the experience and be "eyes" in the dressing room (love YLF meet-ups!). Outfit creation and SYC are the best part of fashion as hobby for me ("Where's Mamma?" "Playing dress-up."). Washing and blocking clothes seems like a meditative exercise, but I'm pained by how often these days I need to send supposedly quality items to the cleaners to fix twisting.

Thanks for the thought-provoking post, Chris.

Anonymous

I'm having to reexamine my shopping habits, too. My wardribe is exactly the way I want it now, so a shopping hiatus for a while while I SYC.

judy

Veteran

Sometimes these experiences are just part of having a wardrobe...some things work out, others, not so much. It can be very disappointing when the fabric does not hold up the way we want. Knowing brands and their quality has helped me shop at places like TJ Maax or thrift stores. I agree with Suz that experiments and buying hi and low are just part of the learning. I have noticed that washing clothes less often can be very helpful in terms of a longer life. Sounds like you are right on track, even in the challenge. It happens.

anne

Veteran

Such an interesting thread! I don't really like shopping, and find it exhausting - so time spent doing it is a factor, and is one reason I don't go to thrift shops.

And unlike Jenn, spending an afternoon sorting out my wardrobe would be a chore (I planned to spend some time on Sun taking pics of my new jeans for stying suggestions, but was way too tired - I didn't even go on my planned run - and I'd much rather run than the constant changing for pics)

Chris987

Veteran

Jenn yes, exactly, it's like "overhead" costs in a business. Or it's entertainment, stress relief, and just plain fun. And yes assessing quality definitely takes practice, I do see myself getting better at this and of making mistakes is one of the best ways to learn anything....

Cerinda good comments. I too wish I had more shopping buddies but I don't have that many

BC can't wait to see the results of your SYC...I bet you'll find some great new combinations, outfits, ideas.

Thanks Judy, I agree with everything you said. It's only white tops that I tend to wash after each wear (and I'm even rethinking that); with everything else it's 2 or 3 wears, and it definitely prolongs the wear.

Ann whahhh? A YLF veteran who does NOT like shopping? How can that be? Just kidding, good that you know your likes and dislikes, and I know shopping is a real pain if you don't like it. Changing for pics does get old pretty fast, I agree with you on that

MovingFashionForward

Very good points. But do take care not to be blinded by high prices either. Many things are ridiculously expensive and the same junk as the cheap rubbish -- and sometimes the cheap stuff can turn out to be high quality. So instead of being guided by price, examine each piece individually and critically.

Sarah

Penny

Veteran

What an insightful thread. Although I consider shopping to be entertainment, it's so satisfying to find a piece that's truly versatile and easy to care for. Since my wardrobe is of dresses, I find it's time-consuming (but rewarding) to find either multi-season dresses or at least dresses that will be workhorses all season long. And although I've definitely gotten better at predicting quality and versatility of items over the years, I still make mistakes! All part of the journey . . .

Chris987

Veteran

Great advice movingfashionforward!

Thanks Penny!

Aziraphale

Veteran

Your reasoning is perfectly sound. It's in line with the Sam Vimes boot theory. A two-second Google search yielded the quote:

“The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money.

Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles.

But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.

This was the Captain Samuel Vimes 'Boots' theory of socioeconomic unfairness.”

Lol. But actually, sadly, true.

Obviously, this quote applies to people who are forced to by poor-quality items because they cannot afford most costly, better-made versions, as opposed to those can afford the higher cost but choose not to. It also assumes that you're going to keep the item in question for years and years, regardless of changes in style. But still, there's truth to it. I think an overall higher cost/lower cost wardrobe (but not TOO low, lest you end up with a pile of twisted, unwearable tops!) is the best approach to fashion, especially if you concentrate your "high" purchases on items that you likely will wear for 10+ years. Things like leather jackets, good wool coats, good shoes, etc.

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