The unsuccessful Helmut Lang blazer

It's already on it's way back, but I thought it might be instructive to me to post these pics. I did just photograph it without careful styling (just over the outfit I happened to be wearing), but I tried it again this morning with a more appropriate outfit, and it didn't look any better.

My take on this blazer? It's a beautifully made garment. The fabric is heavy (perhaps a little too substantial for my personal needs), and it's nicely lined. The detailing is very nice.

However, it was just a bit too big in a lot of areas on me, although I can tell sizing down to the 6 would not work because then it would not fit properly through the hips. The shoulder pads felt overwhelming, and as you can see, there is too much fabric across the shoulders and the back. The jacket does a brilliant job of highlighting the asymmetry in my body. I felt "big" in this jacket, and not in a "like a boss" good way.

I don't think the length is bad, and I like the hem, but I don't like it as well as the more riding-jacket style of my Gibson. Maybe I need to start searching for equestrian-style jackets.

And lastly, as cool as the pointed asymmetric 3/4 length sleeves are in theory, they are too hard to work with in reality. Scrunching didn't work, and rolling up long sleeves under it was awkward.

So, there is my analysis of why this blazer didn't work for me. Do you have any suggestions for alternatives or observations I might be missing?

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12 years ago

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Veteran

I think you were right to pass. It looks quite big across the shoulders in the back view.

Raisin

Looks lovely, too bad it had to go back. But if it's not an 11/10 then it's not worth it for Helmut Lang prices! Way to be PPP.

Caro in Oz

So hard to tell the fit of a dark jacket from still photos imo. I like the front on you. I can see that the back is not fitting well but it looks like it would only involve minor alterations BUT if you didn't feel of it then nothing else matters.

Diana

It's a beautiful piece but I can definitely see the fit issues in the back. Ah well, onward and upward.

I think you need a Smythe.

Jaime

I love your tuxedo stripe pants! It is a gorgeous jacket but it has a very strong shoulder and the fit is not perfect in the back. Good for you for sending it back and waiting for the absolutely perfect one to come along.

Echo

I am a child of the '80's and I LOVE strong shoulders. I just think they flatter more people than not. However, I do see the fit issue across the back. Too bad, because I think it looks fabulous from the front (and I even like the slanted 3/4 sleeves)!

Janet

I'm glad you all are seeing what I was seeing.

Diana, I wondered about Smythe. Not seeing much out there from the bit of searching I've done, but this one is on their site. Strong shoulder but fitted. I wonder if that corset piece is part of it??

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Deborah

Janet, thanks for showing up how the jacket worked for you. It is a stunning jacket and there are elements of the design that I find so attractive, but I can also see the fit issues.

rae

I don't remember your requirements for your black blazer, but did you ever encounter this one? The photo is terrible - it looked way way better on my customer a while ago.

http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/ra.....er/3522264

Rae, that is a cool blazer! No, I never saw it before -- too bad it's unavailable now.

Lisa

Gorgeous blazer, but yeah, the fit looks a tad "off" to my eye. I do like the longer, pointy hemline in the front on you. I have a blazer from Guess and a blazer from BCBG with that style of hemline. I don't see any black one's with the pointy hem on the websites right now, but they may be stores to keep in mind in the future. I do think this is a gorgeous piece though. http://www.bcbg.com/Zanzi-Cabe.....ry-jackets

Angie

Fashion Stylist

You are right to return the blazer, Janet. It does not fit well at the back. It's too roomy across the shoulder and a tad tight on the hips when buttoned up. I do love it from the front though.

Nicole D

Awwwww. Well on to better things. Have you ever tried the Becky blazer by Rebecca Minkoff? Lighter weight but I just love the cut. Here is one, in a summer weight, but you get the idea.... Don't know if she actually does them for fall.

That's a nice cut, Nicole. I don't see it in black, but I like the simplicity and the ease. I don't want anything too stiff, and the HL was a bit stiff.

I'm actually thinking more along the lines of something slightly longer -- my closet is full of cropped or shorter styles, and this jacket shows why. I'm quite small across the upper back, but have a relatively generous chest to fit across, and then there is the, um, not so small dimension across the hips. It's easier to fit me from the shoulder to the waist, and below there I run into trouble. I don't even have much of a behind, it's all width. And it seems that some of the designers I would love to wear -- Rag & Bone, HL, etc. cut for more IT shapes. Hey, designers, some of us mere mortals who have hips would like to wear your stuff too!

I will be keeping an eye out, but I think trying to find an update/upgrade of my current favorite, the black Gibson, may be a good strategy. Something a bit more equestrian, as Diana suggested, like a Smythe. I will be watching to see what becomes available as the season emerges.

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