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About: Wear Welted Knitwear with Flared Skirts

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The quest for quality knitwear

nemosmom

Veteran

Happy weekend, fabbers!

I have finished editing sweaters for the season and am thinking of adding another one or two to my collection for the coming winter. When I reviewed the sweaters that I am passing on, I have to say I am incredibly disappointed in how they have worn.

I have a high tolerance for pilling, minor holes and fading, and even some felting on sweaters, but c'mon! Shouldn't they last longer than a season??! One Jcrew all-cotton sweater faded from a deep olive to a muddy grey, with the gentlest of care. One BR sweater turned into a horribly felted mess after only a handful of wears.

I am curious to know if anyone has pinpointed which fabric or blends wear the best for sweaters. Or, what should I avoid? Obviously, if I could shop in-person and feel the piece, it would help. But, I will have to order online, and I want to avoid the cycle of returns, if possible.

General

25 replies

Latest reply was from Angie

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

In short, no.

I have written many posts about this. It's just about impossible these days. There is almost zero guarantee apart from most 100% cotton pullovers that tend not to pill.

The fibres of the yarn need to be LONG for knitwear not to pill (a pricey operation). There is no way of knowing that when you buy a finished garment.

I'm down to this:

https://youlookfab.com/2020/02.....-knitwear/

I will try Naadam in time. See if their knitwear really doesn't pill!

Joy

Veteran

I am watching this thread as I am not happy with one season garments either. They tend to pill badly as I wear a crossbody all day everyday to carry a medical device and usually my phone. Acrylic alone or in a blend is especially bad for pilling. Merino wool is the best I have found but the pills are very small and tight and harder to remove. Cotton fades.
I am saddest about sweater dresses. My newest has a nubby texture as do some of my most successful sweaters. The texture seems to hide pilling.

Joy

Veteran

Angie’s post on depilling was quite helpful. I have resorted to sending items I used to wash by hand to the dry cleaners to get more wear out of them.

nuancedream

Veteran

Regardless of price point, sweater pilling is a most frustrating problem. Like Joy, I have found merino wool to be the least likely material to pill and most of my merino sweaters don't end up looking like they're ready for the clothing recycle bin after one season of wear. I think merino wool is stronger and when used in a tightly woven sweater would be less likely to pill.

tammyw

Last year I started wearing a lot of Zadig & Voltaire cashmere - I am shocked at how soft and also almost zero pilling on ANY of my sweaters by the end of season. Like a TINY bit on one that I wore a lot and the rest look brand new.

Julie

I mostly buy pre-loved sweaters for this reason. They have usually been worn/washed a few times so any tendency to pill is more apparent, and since I haven't spent much money on them I don't get as aggravated if they don't last.

Minaminu

Veteran

I wonder if pilling is linked to the washing method. I recently started steaming my jumpers (instead of washing) and have noticed the material seems to look less used. When machine washing, I avoid the fabric conditioner as it creates more pilling.

Kate

Veteran

The vast majority of my sweaters are 100% wool, and none of them pill. Many of them I’ve had for years. My cashmere sweaters have all pilled, which is why I no longer buy cashmere.

When it comes to fabric blends, especially with cotton, it’s a crap shoot. If I like it well enough to buy it, I just factor in the likelihood the sweater might end up as a one-season wonder.

LaPed

Veteran

It's so hard! Like others have said, buying secondhand (in person) is often a good bet if you want to avoid pilling, because you get a sense of what the garment looks like after it's been worn and washed. I sort of assume that any new wool or cashmere sweaters (or blends containing those fibers) will need to be de-pilled at the end of sweater season. Like Angie says, manufacturers cut costs by using short-staple fibers. Especially true with cashmere.

I've had good luck with Uniqlo, Everlane and LL Bean for 100% cotton sweaters that hold their shape and colour well. The knitwear I've bought from J Crew and Madewell has tended to be disappointing. I try hard not to look at their sweaters anymore because they are cute and tempting (especially Madewell), but I'm tired of buying things that look ratty after just one season.

kkards

Veteran

I’ve found that my best guide is to feel and examine the garment. Does it feel substantial, are the seams straight and does it “feel” like the other sweaters/knits that I own that have lasted. Overall, i agree that merino, also look for lambswool, is a better bet if you’re looking for something that’s sturdier, but IMO its not going to be a sleek as something made out of cashmere

sylvie55

(website)

I don’t wear wool (I find even high-quality merino too itchy), but my cotton sweaters from vince. have been worth their not inconsiderable price.

Anonymous

Marled yarns and textured knits often show wear less, this is especially true of cashmere, the cabled varieties look better longer. Check that your outerwear doesn't have internal seams that abrade knit surfaces, and scale back on washing, especially for wool, airing will do a lot to freshen items.

Lighter colored cottons will look better longer which is very disappointing as I much prefer one in navy than cream!

Helena

Veteran

No advice to add, but plenty of empathy as this is SUCH a frustration ... Buying stuff we think will last and not be wasteful, and next thing its pilled or fallen apart! So hit and miss, even within a single brand, or worse, the same piece but different colours or seasons. Hope you find some good options!

Runcarla

Veteran

I wish I knew the solution, nemosmom! The annual autumn closet audit is underway and I’m hemming and hawing over the sweaters - for the very same issues. Pilling of wool and wool blends, and fading of cotton.

I think Brooklyn and Sal have dyed cotton items to restore colour intensity, and I’m wondering if I should do the same?

nemosmom

Veteran

Angie - I have a few of Naadam's sweaters - picked up last season - and they have worn beautifully so far. My most worn is the 100% cashmere hoodie, with 13 wears and zero pilling; next is the luxe crewneck with 8 wears and zero pilling - not even under the arms! I have one Sheep Inc sweater on order (it's merino) and will report back.

Joy - yes! Acrylic is a big piller. Fading cotton is the WORST! I hand wash all my sweaters, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. I don't mind shaving them; it's when they are beyond what a shave will remedy that gets me!

nemosmom

Veteran

Nuancedream - yes! It doesn't seem to matter how expensive a piece is at all. I wish that were an indicator. At least then I would have SOMETHING to guide me!

Tammy, Silvie - thank you ! Two brands I have not tried. Maybe I will check them out...

Julie - YES! Older/secondhand knitwear has been one category that I have had great success with... Might be worth checking again... I wonder exactly what my ratio is. I must go do a count!

Minaminu - I handwash my knits and air dry them and I always wear a layer under them to get more wears before washing. I will have to try steaming - I know it works well for my wool/wool blend jackets and coats. Hmmm... I've had dry cleaners shrink beloved pieces in the past, so I avoid them when I can.

Kate - you are right about accepting that it might not last. So disappointing when that happens!

LaPed - I picked up an Everlane sweater at the end of last winter and am anxious to put it through the paces this year. Uniqlo continues to surprise me. Maybe I should look there again. And yes to secondhand! You and Julie have me thinking about doing a deep dive here...

kkards - Yes for sturdy! I don't want pillowy (although it would be nice), but I would like to have some that lasts!

Phoebe - I am with you! I prefer the darker cotton, too! Darn fading...

TG - Soooo hit or miss! And sooooo wasteful! UGH.

Carla - I worry about dying them, simply due to the colorfastness factor. I certainly don't want color transfer all over the place from trying to brighten a sweater! How's your edit coming along??

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

Another vote for secondhand. I have vintage cashmere and wool sweaters that are probably decades old and do not pill. It does come down to the longer fibers/higher quality as Angie said above, but hard to know that in advance no matter the price point.

Liesbeth

Veteran

I wanted to add that in my experience, 100% natural fibres are better for pilling. I once read that this is because if natural fivres 'shed', the pills easily fall off whereas synthetic fibres are spun into long threads that turn into those pills that will cling to your garment indefinitely.
BUT: I just checked my favorite years old cashmere sweater and it turns out it's really a blend with polyamide in the mix. Like others have said, I guess all bets are off. (Dutch brand btw so no use for you.)

Jane

Veteran

The brand that I love is Eric Bompard, but boy for me it is pricey. I have purchased two wrap cardigans that I absolutely love. The quality is good, although they have very slightly, so I do comb them.

I bought a gorgeous COS cardigan a couple of years ago which is mohair, and a dense fabric, which has not piled.

I am a big fan of Boden, because they are so picky about quality and my guess is if their cashmere piled or wasn't wearing as you needed it too, then they would refund it, no quibbles.

cat2

Veteran

For mall brands, I have had good luck with the Ralph Lauren label at Macy’s and Tommy Bahama. I end up with a preppy and beachy result but they have lasted a lot longer than comparable pieces from Nordstrom house brands or Talbots.

For cashmere I have had good luck with the Saks and Neiman Marcus house brands (bought on sale so I am always wearing prior seasons). Saks linen sweaters have also worn really well.

I also like the following bridge brands, bought on sale: Elie Tahari, Trina Turk and Lafayette 148. I can rely on their pieces to last for years. Reiss has been a disappointment.

Laura (rhubarbgirl)

(website)

Veteran

I can’t wear wool so I avoid that. Acrylic is pill city in my experience. A blend with some nylon usually lasts well.

Brooklyn

Veteran

I have good luck with wool and cotton, wool/cotton blends and cotton/cashmere blends (90% cotton 10% cashmere). I’ve had bad experiences with pure cashmere. And viscose blends are variable. I avoid acrylic.

I think cotton is by far the most durable but it’s not as warm as wool and it tends to lose its shape and colour over time. I prefer cotton with 5% spandex or nylon.

RC is right, I have overdyed cotton items to restore colour and sometimes to change the colour. I do it in the machine. I’ve had some good success with that.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

I haven't read all the comments yet, but am jumping in to say, I feel your pain. The only "solution" I have found (and it is really no solution at all) is yes, to accept a certain amount of wear (as you do), to vigorously de-pill (a major pain), and to own a lot of options so you are rotating a lot, i.e. not wearing them often!

Cotton: Not warm enough for my winter climate, let alone yours -- and can stretch out badly. And fade. But does not pill often.

Merino: Can be durable and usually pills less....definitely my most long-lasting items. But the thinner ones are subject to pinprick holes even with lots of care.

Cashmere: A gamble at the best of times. I have a few cashmere sweaters from J. Crew that have lasted me 5-8 years with a lot of wear and only minimal pilling on the inner arms/ armpits. And others that are a hot mess after half a season. I have some high price point sweaters (bought on sale) that have lasted well (with tender care) or maybe I should say they continue to look good even with a bit of pilling because they hold their shape and colour -- and others that look like dishrags after a season. Sigh.

Acrylic -- no. Just no.

Blends. Well??? Maybe???? Sometimes. And sometimes they are the worst ever!!!! My BR merino blend cardigan drives me bananas with its pilling. I am ready to turn it into a window washing rag. Seriously.

Jules

Veteran

I have merino Uniqlo turtlenecks that have worn well, especially relative to the price point (bought on post Xmas clearance). I swore off trendy and blended knits a few years ago because I realized how little wear they got relative to other items (and how little donation value they have, given how poorly they wear). No regrets. Even living in a cold climate, I don’t find sweaters that essential. I prefer good down coat, scarves and indoor layers I can add and remove easily - at home I have hooded fleece jackets, and at work I had a rabbit fur poncho (gifted to me years ago) I could put on if I got a chill. Last year I actually forgot about my sweater drawer for most of the winter!
It’s one area where I might buy used, but when I checked out a rack of ‘curated’ (high quality, made in eg. Ireland, wool) sweaters at a vintage store, they were hundreds of dollars, but of course without a full range of styles, colours and sizes to choose from.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Nemosmom, good to know! I will give Naadam a bash, when I am next in the mood for a basic colour.