The tone of Alexandra's link sounds defensive, I suspect, because it is part of an ongoing conversation and series of articles that the author has written to address precisely the issues that Nicole raised: What is going on with designers? Are they discriminating on the basis of size? Why would they do that? What is going on with sizes? Is there "vanity" sizing? And so on.
From what she says, and reading between the lines, it sounds as if she has been frustrated with some comments she's received and she's trying to address the issues those people have raised. I think that can lead to a bit of acerbity at times. Not trying to excuse the author, but if you read the series you see more of the context.
And I do think that what she says is pertinent. She describes the history of sizing, the reasons that some manufacturers choose this or that fit model, and the complications of fit (which go well beyond simple bust/waist/hip measurement, as every one of us here knows from personal experience.)
To go back to the original question about Smythe and Theory -- I don't know what their rationale is or whether it's right or wrong. But whatever the reason, based on everything we've seen and heard on this thread, it sounds as if they are brands that are difficult to fit for women who have IT tendencies.
They are simply cut for a smaller frame. That's not about weight, per se. Or even about measurements. They just won't feel comfortable on a body with a larger frame. It has to do with armhole placement as much as anything else, I suspect. Also the width of the back.
It's not to say that they are an impossible fit for ITs. Una wears Theory and she is an IT. BUT she is an IT on the smaller end of the size scale and has to size up considerably to make the brand work for her.
Meanwhile, a pretty pear in the same size range might fit very nicely indeed into the jackets in her regular size or one size up (assuming the hips were okay). Someone with a more rectangular shape might also fit them. Take Raisin, for instance. For her, Smythe is pretty TTS.
Meanwhile, the reverse is also true. Nicole mentioned she can wear some of Theory's items -- I am guessing maybe some pants, dresses, skirts, sweaters, or tops with less snug tailoring might work very well on her body type.
Put those same pants on a pear...or even a relatively slim hourglass like me -- and YUCK. I do own and love an older pair of Theory pants...but alas!! They changed the fabric, the cut, and apparently, the fit model this year. With the current crop of Theory pants -- I can get them on (if I size up...and I do have to size up) but they look horrible on me and feel worse.
It's sad, but they're just not cut for my body.
