skirts for a rectangle with apple tendencies?

tiddles

I have a really difficult time finding good skirts. Pencil skirts don't work on me. A-line are OK but still highlight my no-waist.

I'd like to sew a skirt to fit my rectangle with apple tendencies body. Would any of these skirts work? Here's the pattern: http://sewing.patternreview.co.....C1ThallT8o

And here's my outline below. Thanks! If not - I'd love suggestions on sewing patterns from other rectangles. I'd make anything if only I knew what the right kind of skirt to make was.

http://i1079.photobucket.com/a.....1341081177

12 years ago

Body Type

9 replies

Latest reply was from Mary

Gaylene

Veteran

I'm an IT with absolutely NO waist definition (4" difference between my hip and waist measurement) now that I've lost weight. When I was heavier, I tended towards more of an rectangle/apple shape because I put on weight in my midsection.

I've always found that a well-fitted, slim skirt (altered to give me more room in the waist) was my best bet. Occasionally, I'd find a modified A-line that could work as well. In either case, wearing a body-skimming, untucked top with either shape was my most flattering look.

I'd have been quite wary of the fullness in the skirt pattern you've chosen, unless you chose a material that draped very close to the body. The wider hip band shown on a couple of views could work, but I'd cut down on the skirt fullness to make it into a modified A-line.

12 years ago

cinnamon fern

Veteran

Why don't you think pencil skirts work on you?

12 years ago

tiddles

Active Member

Thanks Gaylene - I think you might be right about the fullness near the waistband as well as going for more of an a-line look.

I have 2 a-line patterns that might be better. They are:

The Collette Ginger Skirt (although I would never wear it un-tucked because of my short waist. http://www.colettepatterns.com/shop/ginger/

and also....

http://sewing.patternreview.co.....C1qUqllT8o (what I think is a lower-waisted a-line)

and

http://www.simplicity.com/p-26.....kirts.aspx

Cinnamon Fern - pencil skirts make me look even more rectangular especially from a side view. I become a solid block of rectangle...probably because I don't have a lot of calf definition on my legs. My body looks like a rectangle on top of two long rectangles.

12 years ago

Gaylene

Veteran

The high waist in the Colette might make it harder to alter for a rectangle's larger waist measurement. I found patterns that rest on the hipbones to be much easier since most patterns seem to be cut for an hourglass figure.

The Simplicity pattern looks interesting because of the vertical seam in the front which draws attention away from the midsection. Version A of the Burda also looks good, but I'd stay away from the inverted front pleat in Version B unless you know this style looks good on you.

Here's a sewing technique that I learned in a workshop that worked for me when sewing skirts:

Cut the side seams of the skirt a bit wider (anywhere from 1-2" seam allowance). Do the same thing for the side seams of the waistband.

Assemble the front and back sections of the skirt, including zipper insertion, waistband, and any topstitching on front and back centre seams.The only thing you do not want to completely finish is stitching down the waistband facing on the inside of the skirt at this point.

Baste the side seams together with WRONG SIDES together so that the seam allowance is on the OUTSIDE of the skirt. Flip the waistband to the outside (looks terrible, but bear with me!) and try on the skirt. Because you have these wide seam allowances, you can now pick out the basting stitches to widen the skirt or pin in extra material until the skirt fits exactly the way you like. Re-mark the side seams with tailor's chalk and then stitch the side seams, including the waistband facing, with the RIGHT SIDES together.

Flip the waistband facing to the inside, making sure it fits smoothly and finish it off. Hem your skirt and you're done!

12 years ago

Keix

Veteran

I'm a rectangle with apple tendencies, too! My body looks very much like your outline, with "hip" carried very low through the thighs and a near-perfect rectangle from shoulder to hip with my arms straight.

Pencil skirts actually do work IF you blouse the top enough to cover up the waistband. (If you can find one that fits--J.Crew is the best I've found but their pencils aren't very comfortable to sit in--or in your case, make one!) Ignore all the hourglasses wearing a skinny belt to emphasize their waist in a pencil skirt--you want to cover up the waist with volume to create the illusion that you're hiding a smaller waist than you actually have. Since you sew, you can make the skirt to fit your proportions and taper the bottom hem to create more curves on the bottom.

For maximum A-line skirt flattery, I like a lot of mini pleats and then to blouse a top over the waistband in the same way described above. Here's an example of the shape I'm talking about (I own this actual skirt, but it would be even better with a sturdier and wider waistband): http://images.anthropologie.co.....ct410x615$

It works well if you have a slim high hip (where the top of your hip bone is), because that's where the pleats will settle and help poof out from your waist. You do have to be comfortable wearing it fairly high-waisted with a tucked-in top--I'm short-waisted too, but I like to wear skirts at my natural waist to lengthen my leg line. Since you're very rectangular, you can probably also "fudge" the waist by wearing a "high-waisted" skirt a few inches below your natural waist, even if it's at a thicker part. Any pudge will be covered up by your top if you blouse it over.

This is what has worked for me--but honestly, for creating the best fit-and-flare silhouette, I prefer a fitted A-line dress with a belt added at the waist seam (or the kind with a several-inches-wide waist section). It seems to skim over my tummy more fluidly when the fabric is all one piece.

12 years ago

shiny

Veteran

It's interesting to me that when you are judging your side view you focus on your calves - I'd personally be obsessing over my belly or lack of butt! Which makes me wonder if we over-focus on what we perceive to be our flaws, at expense of the larger, overall picture.

I also have a tough time with skirts. I don't own a whole lot of them and they are my least favorite/least worn items in my closet, even though I get compliments. My preference is higher-waisted pencil skirts or A line. My trauma with skirt fitting is that they tend to be too tight in the waist, and if fit in the waist, way too loose in the hips. Or they hang from my belly in unattractive ways (uneven hemline). Or they twist around annoyingly. Or (as Gaylene mentions) there is just too much skirt/pleats/fullness.

That said I highly HIGHLY encourage you to buy yourself a skirt that fits in the waist and take it to a tailor and have it altered to fit you. The best luck I've ever had -- the most flattering skirts I've ever owned -- are those that were tailored just for me.

Since you sew, have this done and then analyze what it was about the tailoring that worked, and/or create a pattern directly from the finished product and reproduce.

Also if you could find a tulip and/or bias cut skirt, I bet it would look amazing on you. Those are my favorite skirt shapes but I haven't found one in a long long time.

12 years ago

tiddles

Active Member

Gaylene - thanks so much. That is great sewing advice. I usually make a test garment and the wider seam allowances sound like a really good way to modify it. I'm beginning to realize that drafting my own patterns based on measurements might also be a good way to go.

KL - thanks for sharing your pencil skirt tips. Maybe I should re-try them? I just never seem to look good in them. Even with tucking I seem to look even more short-waisted than I am. That said, I might not have the right tops with a bit of volume to them. I'm also pretty busty (32F) and I basically have no space between my ribs and the top of my hip bone. It's good to hear you find the a-lines work. I think perhaps I will try another a-line skirt and go for a slightly larger size so it sits lower on the hip. Do you ahve a fav kind of dress? Like a shirt dress or a sheath dress?

Shiny - thank you. I think we do focus on what we worry about most. My legs are actually pretty slim overall...I just have no calf definition. Having the right shoes would probably help as well. And this fall I plan on wearing more skirts and experimenting with tights. You're so right about finding a tailor. I recently had some jeans altered for the first time and it made a huge difference.

I think I'll try making the simplicity a-line pattern with the vertical line down the front. Here's a photo of someone's version I really like:

http://craftprettysweet.blogsp.....-9825.html

Some contrasting stitching along the hem and up the center should look good I think.

12 years ago

Keix

Veteran

Tiddles, I am unfortunately flat-chested so I can't offer much help in that department! I also have a long torso despite my short waist. You could try tucking a drapey blouse into a hip-slung skirt to create the illusion of a lower waistline. One of the useful attributes of being a true rectangle shape is that you can "create" your waistline lower or higher with relative ease.

My favorite dresses are A-line fit-and-flares with a stretchy torso back (designed for larger busts, but also great for larger waists) or a hidden elastic waistline (not the kind with a blousey top half, although those might work for you with more of a bust, but a regular waist seam that has some stretch to it). Full, pleated skirts are sometimes easier in dresses than skirts because the top half either fits or doesn't. My style doesn't really include sheath dresses, but I've seen them look really good on rectangles; shirt dresses are tough unless you can find a retro-styled one that doesn't cinch too much in the waist. (But you could make one! I like a fitted top and a full circle skirt.)

Anyway, I came back here to suggest a blog resource--Chloe of The Chloe Conspiracy is a self-identified apple shape, but built very similarly to me and looks like strong rectangle tendencies too. She wears a LOT of skirts with tops tucked in! And even gets away with a thin skinny belt on top, although I've yet to figure that one out for myself. Link: http://thechloeconspiracy.com/

12 years ago

Mary

Member

I'm so excited to see sewing posts here!

One tip I read is to stand before a full length mirror with a sheet of poster board . Wear the heels you'd like to wear with the skirt you intend to make and move the poster board up and down. You want to find the find the most flattering place for the hem to end.

I can't remember where I read that but the book or article also said most women have at least two places (one nearer the knees and another further down) where a hem line will really flatter. Once you know yours, you can use that to your advantage in any skirt or dress you make.

12 years ago

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