Shoulder pad issue, illustrated

catgirl

This patterned black silk Equipment blazer is just what I've been looking for in terms of fit and length, and it's 85% off at Burlington Coat Factory. But what is going on here, and can it be fixed? It's worse with the sleeve not scrunched.

This is what happens to me with every jacket that has shoulder pads. It's my left shoulder ALWAYS.... A size up doesn't help, nor a size down. Ideas?

Other than this, it's fabulous and fits me way better than this model - and it's $70, tagged at $568 originally.

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9 years ago

Dressing

32 replies

Latest reply was from tulle

Runcarla

Veteran

What happens if you remove the shoulder pad(s)? When I do a try on, I see if they are on thin threads and if I can twist them out of the way to see how the garment might fall if they are eliminated. Sometimes I walk away, but sometimes I Have cut out the pads and the garment becomes perfect...my own shoulders fill out the garment...and the sleeves fall where I want them.

9 years ago

Tina

Veteran

Question: is your left arm just a touch bigger than your right?
Part of me wonders if it is a construction flaw on this particular jacket. How does the other side look? It almost looks like the ease in the sleeve hasn't been distributed very well but I might just be seeing the pulling. If you could peek inside and see how much room there is to let out the sleeve a bit you may be able to tailor it to fit.
The other part of me thinks that this fit is simply not made for your shoulder and arm shape.
It seems so many garments are made for very slender arms, something that I do not have.

9 years ago

catgirl

Veteran

Tina, I tried on a few sizes and a couple in the same size. It's me because I have had this problem with other brands of blazers and this style of shoulder pad. Unfortunately, they are inside so I can't just chop them out which was my remedy in the 80s.

So I take it this is a bad fit?

9 years ago

Tina

Veteran

From the photos I would say it's a bad fit. I would be curious to see the other side. It may just take a slight adjustment to get this side to sit better. Does it feel tight in the arm?

9 years ago

catgirl

Veteran

Not at all! The other arm lies properly. I think I'm asymmetrical which would explain why it always is one side that's warped. I am left handed so makes sense that my left side is bigger. Maybe tailoring is the inevitable answer?

9 years ago

Tina

Veteran

My vote would be to keep and get it figured out with a tailor. I think it's totally fixable. It sounds like an amazing deal and from what I can see, it's a gorgeous jacket!
Keep us posted!

9 years ago

catgirl

Veteran

Thanks! Has it taken me all my life to realize that maybe this is me and not the jackets that are the issue? DOH!

9 years ago

Tina

Veteran

Ha! One issue solved....next:-/
Seriously though, we do have to remember time and again that retail wear is made en masse and especially garments like jackets simply do not account for varying arm and shoulder shapes. It's great to see this one at least has room in the arms.

9 years ago

barbaraq

Active Member

I think it is not a shoulder pad issue at all. Rather, the sleeves are too small in the biceps area, causing the top of the sleeve to ride up. The shoulder pad rises with it as the sleeves seeks more room. I don't think a tailor could fix this. There simply is not enough fabric in the sleeve circumfeace.

9 years ago

Diana

Veteran

Is your left bicep maybe a little bit bigger than the right? Or maybe your deltoid? This sometimes happens to me too (on both sides) although in my case I think it's just arm chub and not really bicep!

9 years ago

Joyce B

Veteran

I am not sure the shoulder of the garment sits at the tip of your shoulder.
Did you also try a size up? Maybe that will have some ease for the arm as well.

9 years ago

Janet

(website)

Veteran

Una, since you mention this always happens on your left side, I realize you and I might have a very similar fit problem! For me it's on the right. My left shoulder is more square, and my right slightly more sloping, so things never fit me the same on the right even though they may look perfect on the left. This does look like it might be a little snug on your left bicep too.

9 years ago

Traci

Veteran

Since the jacket is perfect in every other way I'd buy it as an experimental piece to learn once and for all if this problem is fixable or a deal breaker for all future jackets. $70 isn't a bad price for the knowledge and the shot at a simply amazing jacket if it works out.

9 years ago

Anonymous

I agree with Barbara that the armhole is too small or something like that. If you look up "shoulder divot" online, one possible reason is that the armhole shape is not right for you and that it needs to be cut wider from front to back. I think this would be a difficult alteration.

My feeling is that if the fabric lies flat everywhere else, you should get the jacket. It is really lovely!

ETA: Fit issues are one of my favourite topics which is why I googled it. Our bones and musculature are all so different.

9 years ago

Suz

(website)

Veteran

I'm not a seamstress so can't say for sure. In the photo it looks as if the arm in the bicep area is cut too small (which could be fixed with enough seam allowance) but it could also be the entire armhole shape, as Smittie says. Still, agree with Traci that this is a good opportunity to experiment. $70 won't be wasted either way. Best case scenario you get a jacket you love that truly fits. Worst case, you learn what the problem really is and what to look for and consign the jacket.

9 years ago

Anonymous

The jacket is inexpensive enough that maybe it would be worth a trip to the tailor.

9 years ago

UmmLila (Lisa)

Veteran

I think it looks like the sleeve is too narrow. Unless there is extra fabric at the seam, I am not sure how you could get that adjusted.

9 years ago

Gaylene

Veteran

OK, it's hard to diagnose sleeve fit issues when your arm is bent and the sleeve is scrunched, but my guess is the shoulder pad on the jacket extends too far past your left shoulder "hinge" point. Normally, the "fix" would be try a smaller size, BUT that solution doesn't usually work for those of us with an IT shape because our broader than "normal" shoulders and backs need that size's extra room in the back and sleeve to avoid feeling constricted in a shaped, tailored jacket.

Since our bodies aren't symmetrical, it's perfectly possible to have different shoulder lengths on our right and left sides. You might want to measure the shoulder seams on your made-to-measure jacket to see if the tailor made an adjustment for your left shoulder. Even 1/4 of an inch can be important here, and, if that is the problem, I'd buy the jacket and get a tailor to re-insert the shoulder pad in the correct location. If that's not the problem, it could be the pitch of your arm (basically the angle your arm hangs from the shoulder joint) that is at odds with the angle of the jacket sleeve. And that is a major headache to fix--walk away time in my books.

9 years ago

unfrumped

Veteran

Is it possible to show it to a tailor for an opinion, and if the answer is ix-nay, return to Burlington for store credit? ( I seem to recall they are not return- friendly. ) otherwise I think it is, sadly, Next!
I really have to resist buying the almost- right. That is even more important and also more vexing if a piece is intended to elevate outfit polish and is a " good" brand otherwise. I feel, sooo close but so far.

9 years ago

catgirl

Veteran

I am going to do exactly what unfrumped says. I bought the jacket and will take to tailor for evaluation. Since I have this problem with just about every jacket with shoulder pads, whether expensive or not, it's got to be me.

Janet, yes, I thought of you! Everything on my left side is a little bigger - feet, hands, and apparently shoulders too.

Diana, I like to think it's muscle since I've started climbing seriously again, but it could well be arm chub!

Will let you know what I find out!

9 years ago

Karie

(website)

Veteran

I do sew and do my own alterations, but this is really puzzling! Hopefully our expert seamstresses Diane G or Firecracker will chime in. Does the upper part of the sleeve by the shoulder pad feel tight at all? My guess would be that either that area of the arm needs a bit more ease in the seam, or it that the pad on that side extends out a bit too far for a proper fit on that shoulder.

I am curious to hear what the tailor says. Please keep us posted!

9 years ago

Chris987

Veteran

I agree that it's a fit issue, not enough fabric in the top of the sleeve, both the cap and the overll circumference. There would have to be a large seam allowance to be able to let it out enough to fit. Can you take it to a tailor without cutting the tags to get an assessment on what might be possible?

9 years ago

Firecracker (Sharan)

Veteran

I agree with barbaraq. The jacket is made for someone with pencil arms, or no triceps anyway.
One way the jacket could be altered is to remove the sleeves and make new ones for it, adding more fabric across the upper arm. You could replace the sleeves with leather or pleather ones, perhaps.

9 years ago

shedev

Veteran

I get this issue from jackets and shirts a lot due to big arms. I hope you post what the tailor says. It is a lovely jacket.

9 years ago

catgirl

Veteran

Nothing feels tight, but this is silk so it has a lot of give. I do not have big arms overall but they are big for my size, and they curve outward, so it's not just my bone structure that gives that IT shape. This is me below!

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9 years ago

Runcarla

Veteran

My dad and 1 brother have one shoulder that is 'thicker' than the other. Dad's tailor sorted his issue with shoulder pad modification. brother gets bespoke shirts. (He is tall and thin.). DH broke his collar bone 15 years ago and one shoulder is 'shorter' than the other. !he has had fit troubles with anything 'off the rack' ever since.

DS#2 has one shoulder that is slightly externally rotated, while the other is slightly internally rotated. He has an exercise routine (with weights) that addresses the issue. Maybe you can consult with a physio, chiro, or real good fitness expert who can help you work on symmetry.

9 years ago

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

Interesting and interested in what the tailor says. Hard to imagine the whole thing, but the shoulder looks like in ends at a good place - perhaps the sleeves are just cut too narrow (Angie mentioned this on her list of universal fit challenges I recall). Hope there is a good solution!

9 years ago

Beth Ann

Veteran

I find that manufacturers are kind of giving up on fit. They choose their target customer, cut for that body, and then just add or subtract inches to create the range of sizes. I've noticed a lot of smaller sleeves recently. I'm fairly broad and square shoulders and fuller in the upper arm than I'd like to be. I sometimes have to size up for the sleeves alone. I'd be an IT too, if it weren't for my hips,lol! And I'm a fellow lefty.

Big question: Is the jacket lined? I find that often the lining is tighter than it needs to be. Removing the lining in the sleeve, or putting a small gusset in the lining, might be enough to release the upper arm.

Love the chevron like stripe!

9 years ago

Aziraphale

Veteran

I have fit problems with shoulder pads too. What happens if you take them out? That often works for me. I can't do it myself, but it's usually an easy thing for the tailor to do. I usually don't recommend buying something that you know you're going to have to alter and you're not sure how it will turn out, but because shoulder pads are so common in jackets and coats, I've been forced to do this occasionally. If this jacket is such a good price, it might be worth buying it and having the pads removed to see if it solves the problem for you.

9 years ago

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