Sewists: what is this fit issue? - YouLookFab Forum

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Sewists: what is this fit issue?

Peri

Veteran

I've tried on 8 sleeveless sheath type dresses in the past few days and most of them have this particular fit issue on me. They were all tailored fit, not body con but not loose.

The issue is that they were fitted in the bust...not squished flat, but definitely not too big...and yet they all gapped open under the arms. Like too much material, I could pinch up an inch under each arm where the seam could be taken in. Not all the way down the side seam, just from the arm hole and about 3 inches down.

I don't get it. If there is that extra material, why do they feel fitted in the bust? If I have an inch extra room on each side, why doesn't the top feel loose? I have a smallish frame, but busty...34D...so it isn't like I'm not filling out the top.

I guess it isn't loose because the extra material doesn't go all the way down the side, but I still don't see why they are fitting me this way. Any thoughts?

General

23 replies

Latest reply was from

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

The armholes are cut too wide and low for your torso. It's a simple side seam alteration though.

Suz

(website)

Veteran

I get this sometimes, Peri. Of course I am small busted, too. But this issue is different -- it happens because you have a slender build.

Firecracker (Sharan)

Veteran

What Angie said, and Suz, too. It is that the dress was made for torso that is wider but smaller busted than yours.

BrieN

Veteran

This happened with everything I tried on at H&M the other day. I am glad to know the reason why.

Anonymous

Exactly. I wear a 34B bra - smaller than you - but don't have such a small frame. I'm medium boned, and have never had that problem - not even at my thinnest, lowest weight. My torso must be larger than yours. The purple sheath dress I posted the other day is a size 8P, and it fits perfectly. I think, though, that it should be an easy and inexpensive alteration to make. Get a good seamstress who knows what to do and you'll be fine.

My purple sheath dress is from Talbot's, btw.

barbaraq

It probably also needs some kind of bust dart, either from the side seam or the armhole itself. Your bust is probably pushing out fabric in the bodice to accomodate your bust, leaving the sleeve too small to take up the slack. Being too low only makes matters worse.

MsMaven

Veteran

I have a narrow ribcage and occasionally have the back taken in, but I need more room in the bust. It is very annoying when the armholes are too big and too low. I get that a lot with tank tops and camisoles.

chirico (Chiara)

(website)

Veteran

I had a dress altered before a wedding for this same reason. My bust is on the skinny side compare to my lower body, so it can happen. It was an easy and cheap alteration, though, so if you like any of these dresses, bring them to your tailor.

Peri

Veteran

Thanks for the help. It just seems strange, but maybe I've "outgrown" sheath style dresses.

Four were Ann Taylor and the material was not pleasing me at all, so I wouldn't have bought them even if they fit. The other four were WHBM and they felt like much better quality, but didn't thrill me. I have no specific occasion in mind, so I vote to keep looking and find something that does better for me.

Sveta

(website)

Veteran

I have this fit issue all the time and if dress fits well everywhere else it is a simple alteration. I usually get this fit issue because I have broad shoulders but small bust and narrow back so there is simply too much fabric from shoulders down.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Btw, this happens to me all the time unless I'm fitting a brand that is cut narrow. I simply purchase those brands or go down a size.

Thirkellgirl

Veteran

My daughter has a wide back and shoulders (swimmer) and a tiny bust, and she has found the Lands End sheath dresses in ponte to fit her perfectly with no gapping. She has had good luck in the past with Banana Republic, too. Her sister, who is bustier but narrower in the rib cage and across the shoulders, can't wear any of the same dresses but has great luck with NY&Co. I'm glad to know why!

Anonymous

Thanks, Thirkellgirl. One of my DDsis built like that, thanks to Cross Fit. Good to know where to find dresses for her.

Beth Ann

Veteran

I have a wide torso, Peri (that singer's ribcage), and my bust is more wide than it is big. But I still have this problem! I usually just pass on the item, but I think that taking in the side seam under the arm, or adding and/or deepening a bust dart, can make the difference!

Anonymous

Thanks, Beth Ann. I sing, too (used to sing professionally), but have never heard the term "singer's ribcage." Makes sense, though!

Colette

Veteran

This happens to me too and I always just thought it was because I'm small in the bust. It's frustrating because even simple tank tops gap on me. I've had some side seems taken in and straps shortened.

Maneera

(website)

Veteran

This happens to me with every sheath dress too. I'm full busted, have wide shoulders, and the dress fits everywhere but the arm holes are big. I get the alteration done for every piece.

I got 2 Mango sheath dresses made with a knit fabric last summer and those were perfect. No problem what so ever!

Suz

(website)

Veteran

Ditto what Angie and Sveta said. I simply shop the brands that are cut narrow because I have to.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

High five, Sveta and Suz.

Peri, Suz and Sveta - case in point, the J.Crew dress below. ALL the reviews said it ran small and they were sizing up at least a size. Okay, I thought. I'll go into the dressing room with a size 2, since I usually wear a size 0. The 2 was very big. Tried the 0 - also too big. Tried the 00 - a perfect fit. So I think the dress runs a size big. The reviews depend entirely on who is reviewing it!!! I'm slight to fit and need a narrow silhouette to fill out the garment. Narrow shoulders, narrow neck, small bones, narrow arms, and regular size bust. The reviewers were probably not as slight, and concerned that the lined frock does not have stretch - so from that perspective, their reviews make sense.

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Suz

(website)

Veteran

That's so true about the reviews, Angie. When I post a review now I am always careful to state my height, approximate weight, and body type, along with relevant body type modifiers. Thanks to this site I know all of those and I also know how incredibly useful this information is to others.

I pretty much always ignore reviewers of tops/ jackets/ and sheaths who say an item "runs small." Unless they state that they have a slim frame/ small bust, I can be almost 100% guaranteed that the item will run either TTS or large for me.

Bottoms are trickier; that is where my curves are, and because I have a longish rise, fit can be problematic. So I pay careful attention to what reviewers say about the thigh fit (where I am largest) and I look for items that fit well on relatively straight figures with some ease or stretch in the thigh. I look at the measurements for rise (front and back), and leg opening, too.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

That's clever, Suz, and makes perfect sense. I'm glad you have your fits sorted! I usually LIKE when reviews say garments run small because then I'm a little more certain the item will fit me. I draw the line at premium jeans though - because TRULY - their sizes are just ridiculously all over the place. The only premium brands I remotely trust in the sizing dept at the moment are AG and J.Brand.

Peri

Veteran

If I ever do find a dress I love I will definitely keep the alteration option in mind. But I have to find the dress first! I am back to looking for that all occasion plain-ish black, navy or charcoal, have just in case kind of dress. It seems like such a good idea to have something like that, but I really don't want to settle, and then pay alterations on top of something I'm not even wild about.

And yet, is it really a good idea? Don't really know. Tastes and (lately) size might have changed before this "useful" dress even comes out of the closet. Shopping ahead vs shopping last minute...ah, the dilemma!

And I do feel that I am hard to fit in a dress. IT and busty, but small rib cage, and now add in my current apple belly. Hmmm. Apple is kind..soccer ball belly is more accurate. Too many variations!

Anonymous

You never know. You might find your perfect dress on sale and then be able to afford to get it altered.