Sewing jersey knits

Greyscale

Two related questions:

First... can a tailor easily shorten a t-shirt? I've never had anything knit altered. I have a Complex Geometries tunic (standard cotton t-shirt fabric) that would fit much better if it were 4" shorter. The bottom hem is simple, no complex geometry about it. If I take it to a standard alterations place, will this be an cheap, easy fix?

Second, all your Eileen Fisher harem pants make me really want to sew some in lightweight wool jersey (because I have an irrational hatred of synthetics). I found an easy pattern, but I've never sewn jersey. Do I need a serger to do this properly? Will the fabric unravel at the seams if I just use a standard running stitch on my simple sewing machine?

12 years ago

General

11 replies

Latest reply was from Lantana

Anonymous

I'm a Dressmaker/Tailor and I've shortened many a tee shirt or jersey skirt so I would imagine most tailors should be able to do your tee shirt hems. I've also made tee shirts for myself and others and I would say that actually most knits don't fray all that easily, but you do get a far better job if you sew with a serger as the seams will stretch with the garment; however you can just use an ordinary sewing machine and use a slight zig-zag stitch. By slight I mean not to long or wide when you set the dials. The zig-zag will then stretch out slightly with the seams when you move so the stitching doesn't snap. Wool jersey would sew like a dream. I suggest you try various machine settings on fabric scraps first to perfect the length and width of stitch.

12 years ago

Greyscale

Veteran

Thanks! Perfect.

I wish I had the skill and energy to translate all my ideas to reality. Nothing very creative, just wishing I had a slightly different shape of top or slightly different pants. I used to sew a lot as a kid but only from patterns. If I make these draped pants, maybe it'll start a new chapter of my fashion hobby.

12 years ago

Anonymous

Yes, go for it! Hopefully other sewists on here will reply and give their slant on stitching ideas. All the best.

12 years ago

Karie

(website)

Veteran

Diane's the expert here, I'm just a regular 'ol home sewist. I don't own a serger, but I do sew with knits quite a lot on my regular machine. Just be sure and use the correct needle for knits, and follow your manual's instructions for proper stitch and tension. The website http://www.patternreview.com is very helpful with sewing tips.

I sew with a straight stitch or a double stitch for knits. You can also finish your seams as per instructions with your pattern, or any good sewing book/website. I have never had a problem with knits unraveling.

My best tip for sewing with knits: My machine, and many others from what I've read, likes to attempt to swallow the knit fabric through the hole on the needle plate while I'm stitching. I put a small piece of masking tape on the sewing plate, the needle pokes a smaller hole through the tape, and all is well.

12 years ago

Beth Ann

Veteran

Some great ideas already here! Karie: I forgot the tape trick -- I need to remember that myself. Greyscale, I found a couple of pins that cover this, if you're on Pinterest: http://www.pinterest.com/singcrazy/sewing/

12 years ago

amiable

Veteran

Just a home sewist here too, but I do frequently sew knits on my regular machine - just with a zig zag stitch. For hems, since they tend to stretch out, I use fusible knit stay tape. It's wonderful and doesn't add weight (and it's still stretchy afterward).

12 years ago

Julie

Active Member

I'm not a seamstress at all, but have hemmed t-shirts..one in particular was a curved hem, a rayon knit I believe, and it was a piece of misery to do it, but turned out quite well...I pressed the hem in place and then used a fairly narrow zigzag...the t-shirt is definitely doable!

12 years ago

catgirl

Veteran

Zig zag stitch works for me but a serger is better - do you know someone who has one? You are giving me ideas here!

My friends and I trade craft skills. I can sew and make jewelry, they knit or quilt. I love piecing but can't stand hand quilting while others love it.

12 years ago

Laura (rhubarbgirl)

(website)

Veteran

I don't have a serger either and I sew knits all the time. The one trick I've found, other than using a narrow zigzag, is to make sure you use the right needle. There are ballpoint needles that are good for less tightly woven knits, and then there are stretch needles which are good for stuff that's synthetic or tightly woven with a lot of Lycra. I would guess a ballpoint would be fine, and probably in a larger size, for a wool jersey since its not usually super stretchy. I use a twin needle to hem, which looks sorta like a RTW coverstitch. Twin needles can tunnel - do a sample, check your tension, and use a temporary stabilizer or hem tape if you need to.

12 years ago

Miakate

Active Member

I took a cardigan made out of T-shirt material to a tailor/dry cleaner to shorten the sleeves and it turned out terrible. The stitching was so messy. I had them re-do it and it looked only slightly better. Just be careful about who you take it to!

12 years ago

Lantana

Veteran

Another enthusiastic amateur here. I use a twin needle and woolly cotton in the bobbin. These ideas come from Sandra Betsina for Vogue and have worked well for me.

12 years ago

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