See Now Buy Now Business Model

RoseandJoan

Change is coming to the fashion industry the old system of showing clothes six months ahead of the retail season appears to be coming to an end key players within the industry such a Burberry and Tom Ford are to show clothing which is available to buy immediately. As someone who loves fashion but does not have a designer budget I wonder how this change may impact upon our favourite high street stores. Will fashion again become elitist? I would love to hear your thoughts.
http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/20.....y-reaction

8 years ago

Fashion Week

12 replies

Latest reply was from kkards

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

I believe that this is already happening - with RTW 2016 Spring collections shown last Sept/Oct. Fashion buyers - and some clients - could buy the items straight off the catwalk. But it's only VERY few designers offering this service. And elitist is the operative word. It's to give VERY few elite people the option of wearing the design first.

Personally, I do not see this affecting the retail market because it's SUCH a small portion of the population being able to afford fashion in this way. The big changes in retail are coming from making manufacturing more eco-friendly and sustainable. I fell off my chair hearing that H&M was one of THE most sustainable retailers of them all. And they are a FAST FASHION HOUSE. Ironic and brilliant.

8 years ago

RoseandJoan

Veteran

Yes Angie, peak consumption has been mentioned by a lot of business analysts, remaining profitable as the west seeks to buy less and more sustainably will be very interesting.

H&M that's brilliant, are you able to recycle old clothes through H&M for store credit in the US?

8 years ago

rabbit

Veteran

Yes I've recycled old clothes through H&M in the US and you get a 15% percent off coupon for H&M for each bag you bring in. What makes it different than donating gently used clothes to Goodwill for example is that H&M will also take fabric in any condition (clean of course) including rags and recycle the fibers.

There are a couple of other stores that do it too: American Eagle Outfitters with denim, Eileen Fisher, and Levis. Neiman Marcus has a high end consignment partnership: http://www.latimes.com/fashion.....story.html

8 years ago

kkards

Veteran

I suspect this will change what we see in our local shops, as it will be harder, to beat the designers to the floor with there own designs. Will this make fashion elitist, I don't think so....but I thinkit will make company's like H&M etc relook at some of their business strategies. But, I suspect this will take a years to really have an impact.

8 years ago

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

kkards, local shops don't need to beat designers to the floor with their designs. And retailers like Zara (VERY vertical supply chain) can have their items on the shop floor in two weeks, which is probably faster than the designers can produce the items they are selling off the catwalk. In fact, that's quite hilarious, actually!

Jules, I see that Rabbit answered your question.

8 years ago

approprio

(website)

Veteran

This is happening because the larger houses are competing for fewer and fewer customers and are under enormous pressure from the likes of H&M and Zara. That's the driving force here, and it's made them reluctant to take risks. They're targeting a global elite who tend to be very conservative in their style and are more interested in showing off their status than being particularly innovative.

The whole race to the bottom between high fashion and fast fashion has done a lot to level the playing field but it's happened at the cost of innovation at the top level. I'm hopeful that this will create opportunities for smaller independent brands to reach mid-level consumers with something new and interesting, because I haven't seen anything to tug my heartstrings for a good few seasons.

ETA: good to see H&M taking the initiative. I'm going to look into that.

8 years ago

kkards

Veteran

Angie, yes I totally agree thst Zara etc can get things made fast, and to the floor fast, but, at least IMO what they don't do, is design new fashion, and that is what I meant. the fast fashion company's will need to start innovating and designing. And I suspect that the fashion houses will be deciding upfront which items will be offered, and producing them prior to the shows.....which in essesnse also removes the power of retailer, and gives them more of a vertical model.

8 years ago

RoseandJoan

Veteran

Approprio, that reminds me of the scenario in Dior and I when Raf Simons schedule for his debut Couture show is thrown because one of the heads of the couturier are sent to the US for a client fitting.

KKards, it is interesting to think how Zara will negotiate this, being second to the shop floor with a trend does not hold the same cache.

I guess the mid level brands will find a system which works for them. Fashion shows are very expensive so I am sure they will find creative ways to find their customers.

8 years ago

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

kkards, I see your point and it's something to think about. Interesting times we live in, aren't they! Thanks for chiming back in.

8 years ago

Jaime

(website)

Veteran

Very interesting. I am thinking about this too in terms of limited production independents being the new elite.

8 years ago

rachylou

Veteran

Will buyers still get their preview to make decisions? Or will buyer know-how be replaced by stats gleaned from online buzz?

I suspect this is a decent tactic to regain some advantage for a little while, but I don't think the luxury houses will ever get to be the tastemakers they once were.

Sometimes I just feel confused by seeing next year's wares, so in that front... Well, I mean, sometimes I burn through a trend withiut ever having participated. Jus' sayin'...

8 years ago

kkards

Veteran

i think this one sentence from the NYT's coverage of this says it best….

In other words: The show will become a big marketing and selling tool, not for department stores or glossy magazines, but for direct communication between the brand and the men and women who want to buy it.

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02.....-collec…

8 years ago

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