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Rudderless design house?

annagybe

(website)

Veteran

So Helmut Lang left his namesake house a long time ago.

Michael and Nicole Colovos designed for it recently and that overlaps with the time of it becoming a favorite among some forum members.
But now they left
http://fashionista.com/2014/02.....rs-leaving

And it's being designed by an in-house team. I'm not sure what to make of their fall look. It seems to be a mash up of Theory, Vince and a little Acne Studios thrown in.
http://www.helmutlang.com/fall.....lt,sc.html
Then looking at the prices, I'm hoping the fabric is impeccable. Because I feel you can get similar looks for far less.
http://shop.nordstrom.com/sr?o.....elmut+lang...

Only reason I looked into this is that I got an email from a retailer heralding their new look and I was like huh? that doesn't look like what I remember.

General

17 replies

Latest reply was from rachylou

Firecracker (Sharan)

Veteran

Interesting! I don't see anything that really grabs me. And I used to like the HL jackets a lot (for inspiration--not that I have one).

UmmLila (Lisa)

Veteran

Not terrible, but not original either. Whatever happened to real Helmut Lang, anyway? I never could afford anything when he was in charge.

Deborah

Veteran

Anna, I agree with your assessment. I quite like some of the items but I am not sure that I would know just by looking that they are HL. Whereas in the past I could pick his clothes because of the distinct design elements.

UmmLila, I read that HL is now quite the recluse and spends his time at a seaside retread in South Hampton???

Gryffin, I would be interested to hear your thoughts as I know you appreciate, and wear, HL.

Cococat

Veteran

This does not look like the HL I'm used to. It's somehow missing the edge I associate with HL.

I have a little bit of HL mostly bought second hand on eBay and discounted online. I found a top at the Red Cross thrift store once. That was one of my best thrift bargains.

Janet

(website)

Veteran

I just took a look and I see it too -- Vince, Theory -- but pretty safe stuff. Maybe they're trying for a broader appeal at retail, but yeah, for the prices the quality should be impeccable. It will be interesting to see how it sells and whether they get more adventurous again in future seasons.

Elly

Veteran

I agree- it isn't the same. I do like the looks, though (for the most part) very wearable, but still not the HL I'd expect. The prices are high -- if they are changing their strategy their price structure will have to follow.

donnat

Veteran

I just love your posts like this. You help keep me on top of things.
I echo the sentiments here. Not the edgy HL I am used to seeing, pretty safe stuff.

gryffin

Veteran

Thanks Anna. This explains a lot. I'm glad I bought the HL jackets I did when I saw them. We'll just have to watch and see how the situation evolves. But right now planning to enjoy the pieces I already have.

Angie

(website)

Fashion Stylist

Thanks for the designer update, Anna. Good stuff.

I agree with your assessment. The hand writing is quite different (some of those looks are available at Topshop!). I wonder whether the Helmut Lang die-hards feel gilted.

Eliza

Veteran

Appreciate you sharing this, Anna.

Agree that what I think of as HL's signature looks are missing, yet not replaced by another more unique point of view here. Quite generic and can't tell about fabrication. Pricing is high, too, but I only have a few HL pieces and I'm not sure how they cost out in comparison to these looks.

Marlene

Veteran

I saw some Helmut Lang displayed as I was window-shopping in Vancouver and that was my first thought as well...what happened? It looks so familiar! So I kept walking. I can get that look for much less elsewhere.

Greyscale

Veteran

I had the same reaction when I looked at their new collection recently. Good, but nothing special jumped out at me. Thanks for filling in the missing piece of the story for me.

CocoLion

(website)

Veteran

I am going against the grain and will say I like their new collection. It's kind of hard to form an opinion based on Nordstrom's selection. But what they are showing on their own website, I looked at once and yes I saw Vince & Theory. Then I checked again and it began to grow on me. I'm happy they are not on the cropped pants thing which is so hard for me as a petite to wear. I see wearable clothes that last more than one season. I see less delicate fabrics than I saw when Michael and Nicole were at the helm, that was my complaint as I purchased several HL sweaters that were beautiful but snagged so easily.

There is something understated yet I do see an edgier look than Vince, so as I die-hard Vince fan, I like it. I will also say that my aesthetic is becoming more classic/minimal than it used to be, probably due to being 57.

I would have a hard time paying full price for their pieces although their long 31" tuxedo blazer is a HEWI for me. Time will tell if I can purchase some of these pieces later on in the season for less, and if they are even worth it, quality-wise. There is certainly the possibility that the owners are milking a cash cow.

In 2005, Lang left his own company, and Prada, who purchased a 51% stake in it in 1999, sold the company the next year to Link Theory holdings. Link Theory holdings is the Japanese maker of Theory clothing and a subsidiary of Fast Retailing, which owns Uniqlo.

Above paragraph is paraphrased from a good article with some brand history.
http://www.theatlantic.com/ent.....ng/401366/

Carla

Veteran

Interesting. I love the 'family tree' of fashion houses!

shedev

Veteran

I'm not sure I'd call myself a die hard, but I do have several pieces. The new collection isn't really doing it for me.

Karie

(website)

Veteran

It's true, there's nothing earth shattering or that you can't get somewhere else. I like it when designers set themselves apart, so that you know an item is theirs without even looking at the label. That seems to be happening less and less across the board these days.

rachylou

Veteran

I like the pieces but totally agree with your assessment. It's not very distinctive and doesn't say Helmut.